DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
25.00 RON /25g |
Order |
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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DROPS Design: Pattern fl-085
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 25.00 RON /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Andrele website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Ginger Tea Top |
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Knitted jumper in DROPS Flora and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down in stocking stitch with raglan and short sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 244-15 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RAGLAN-1: Increase 1 stitch before/after 2 stocking stitches in each transition between body and sleeves. The marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked as follows on the next round: BEFORE MARKER-THREAD: Slip the yarn over knit-wise, then place it back onto the left needle the other way around, knit the front loop (stitch twists to the right). No hole. AFTER MARKER-THREAD: Knit the back loop (stitch twists to the left). No hole. The new stitches are worked in stocking stitch. RAGLAN-2: Increase 1 extra stitch before/after the marker-threads on the body (not on the sleeves). Raglan-2 is worked in addition to Raglan-1. BEFORE MARKER-THREAD: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, use the left needle to pick up the strand from behind between the next 2 stitches, knit the front loop. No hole. AFTER MARKER-THREAD: Work to 3 stitches after the marker-thread (any yarn overs from the previous row are not counted in this stitch-count), use the left needle to pick up the strand from the front between the next 2 stitches, knit the back loop. No hole. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), knit 2 together (2 stitches decreased). GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked from top down. The neck is first worked in the round with circular needle, then an elevation is worked back and forth with circular needle at the back of the neck. The yoke is continued in the round with circular needle, then divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle as far as the split, then finished back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles. NECK: Cast on 96-104-104-112-112-120 stitches with short circular needle size 4.5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Flora and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Change to short circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Insert a marker at the beginning of the round. YOKE: Insert 4 marker-threads without working the stitches, each thread inserted between 2 knitted stitches as follows: Count 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches, insert marker-thread 1 before the next stitch (approx. half back piece), count 24 stitches, insert marker-thread 2 before the next stitch (sleeve), count 24-28-28-32-32-36 stitches, insert marker-thread 3 before the next stitch (front piece), count 24 stitches, insert marker-thread 4 before the next stitch (sleeve), 11-15-15-15-15-19 stitches left (rest of back piece). You now work an elevation at the back of the neck. Cut the strands. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Start from the right side, 3 stitches before marker-thread 3. Work back and forth as follows: ROW 1 (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 3, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 4, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 2, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 2. 8 increased stitches = 104-112-112-120-120-128 stitches. Turn. ROW 2 (wrong side): * Purl to the yarn over (before the marker-thread), purl the back loop, purl 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip the next yarn over and replace it on the left needle the other way around (insert the left needle from the back when replacing it), purl the front loop. Purl to the next marker-thread *, work from *-* 2 more times. Purl to the yarn over (before marker-thread 3), purl the back loop, purl 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip the next yarn over and replace it on the left needle the other way around, purl the front loop. Purl to 2 stitches past the beginning of the previous row. Turn. ROW 3 (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 3, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 4, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 2, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 2 stitches past the beginning of the previous row. 8 increased stitches = 112-120-120-128-128-136 stitches. Turn. ROW 4 (wrong side): As row 2. ROW 5 (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 3, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 4, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 1 stitch before marker-thread 2, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit to 2 stitches past the beginning of the previous row. 8 increased stitches = 120-128-128-136-136-144 stitches. Turn. ROW 6 (wrong side): As row 2. The elevation is finished. Cut the strands. READ THE REST OF THE YOKE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING. Start by the marker. Continue stocking stitch in the round and increase for raglan as follows: REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! NOTE: Extra stitches are increased on the front and back pieces, therefore raglan-2 is worked at regular intervals in addition to raglan-1. Read RAGLAN-1 and RAGLAN-2 above and begin both increases on the next round. Increase for raglan-1 on each side of all 4 marker-threads every 2nd round 3-4-7-14-14-12 more times (a total of 6-7-10-17-17-15 times including the increases on the elevation). AT THE SAME TIME increase for RAGLAN-2 on the front and back pieces – (raglan-2 is worked in addition to raglan-1) every 6th-8th-8th-6th-4th-4th round 6-5-6-8-10-11 times in total. Continue to increase for raglan-1 every 2nd round but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces (4 increased stitches), i.e., increase on the front and back pieces every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round. Increase like this 14-16-14-8-10-14 times on the front and back pieces (7-8-7-4-5-7 times on the sleeves) – remember raglan-2. After all the increases for raglan-1 and raglan-2 there are 252-276-292-328-348-368 stitches. You have increased a total of 13-15-17-21-22-22 times on the sleeves and 26-28-30-33-37-40 times on the front and back pieces (20-23-24-25-27-29 times for raglan-1 and 6-5-6-8-10-11 times for raglan-2). There are 50-54-58-66-68-68 stitches on the sleeves and 76-84-88-98-106-116 stitches on the front and back pieces). Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 20-22-23-24-26-28 cm, measured after the rib on the neck mid-back. Now divide for the body and sleeves (from mid-back): Knit to marker-thread 1 (belongs to the back piece) = 39-41-43-50-54-57 stitches, place the next 50-54-58-66-68-68 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve, knit to marker-thread 3 (front piece = 76-84-88-98-106-116 stitches), place the next 50-54-58-66-68-68 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve, knit to the end of the round (rest of back piece = 37-43-45-48-52-59 stitches). The body and sleeves are finished separately. BODY: = 172-188-200-220-240-264 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the cast-on stitches under each sleeve and allow them to follow your work onwards (used for the split in each side). Start the round at one marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When the body measures 21-21-22-23-23-23 cm from the division, place the last 86-94-100-110-120-132 stitches on a thread and work the first 86-94-100-110-120-132 stitches, creating a split in each side, as follows: Work 4 GARTER STITCHES – read description above, work stocking stitch over the next 78-86-92-102-112-124 stitches and increase 12-12-14-12-18-14 stitches evenly over these stitches (increase with yarn overs which are worked twisted on the next row) and 4 garter stitches = 98-106-114-122-138-146 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib from the wrong side as follows: 4 garter stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 2 and 4 garter stitches. Continue this rib back and forth for 3 cm, with the next row from the right side. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Place the stitches from the thread on circular needle size 4.5 mm and work in the same way. The jumper measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the shoulder. SLEEVES: Place the 50-54-58-66-68-68 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-64-70-78-82-84 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards (used when decreasing). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2-2½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 4-4-3-4-3-3 times = 52-56-64-70-76-78 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 14-12-12-11-10-8 cm from the division. Knit 1 round and increase 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 56-60-68-76-84-88 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 17-15-15-14-13-11 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fasten the strands and sew a small stitch at the top of each split so they stay together. |
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Comments / Questions (51)
Anna Von Rosen wrote:
Hej, när det gäller storlekarna S-XXXL om jag vill sticka storlek 38, vilken ska jag välja?
31.10.2024 - 15:06Bittan wrote:
Jag ser ingen förklaring till hur man stickar in främre halskant mot förhöjda bakkant. Hur gör jag?
22.10.2024 - 00:07DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bittan. När du har stickat förhöjningen bak i nacken fram och tillbaka så fortsätter du att sticka runt hela varvet och ökar till raglan så arbetet stickas då ihop. Mvh DROPS Design
23.10.2024 - 14:24Marion wrote:
Bonjour, je vous remercie pour votre réponse. Par contre, dans votre explication, vous dites "raglan-2, devant et dos seulement" alors que dans les explications du tricot il est dit d'augmenter avant ET après chaque marqueur pour le raglan 2. Cela se contredit.
09.09.2024 - 15:18DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marion, les augmentations du raglan-2 ne se font que sur le devant et le dos (cf RAGLAN-2, vous allez ainsi augmenter avant le fil marqueur à la fin du devant/dos et après le fil marqueur au début du devant/dos, mais vous n'augmentez pas sur les manches pour le raglan-2. Bon tricot!
10.09.2024 - 08:56Marion wrote:
Bonjour . En taille S, on a 120m après la réhausse. On augmente 3xrag1 = 24m. Ensuite, on augmente 14xrag1 dont 7 fois uniquement sur le dos/devant, c'est-à-dire (7x8m)+(7x4m) = 84m. Parallèlement, on augmente 6xrag2 = 48m. Donc un total de 156m augmentées. Ajoutées au 120m après la réhausse, on finit avec un total de 276m et non de 252m comme dans les explications. Je ne comprends pas cette différence de 24m. Pouvez-vous m'aider, s'il vous plait? Marion
08.09.2024 - 17:28DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marion, en taille S on a 120 mailles après la réhausse et 252 m quand les augmentations du raglan sont terminées, en taille M on a 128 mailles après la réhausse et 276 m quand les augmentations du raglan sont terminées; pensez à choisir la taille que vous tricotez (elle sera entourée tout du long), vous pourrez ainsi mieux suivre la bonne taille. En taille M, vous augmentez 4 x 8 m (raglan-1) + 5 x 4 m (raglan-2, devant et dos seulement) + 16 x 4 m (dos/devant) + 8 x 4 m (manches) soit: 128+32+20+64+321=276m. Bon tricot!
09.09.2024 - 10:40Marie Evans wrote:
Thank you for prompt reply. I have completed the neck elevation Ok. Please can you clarify the increases that happen after this. Where are the increases made in relation to the 4 markers.
06.09.2024 - 10:14DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marie, the increases are worked as follows: knit until 1 stitch is left before the marker thread (the marker thread should be between 2 stitches), yarn over, knit 1, slip marker thread, knit 1, yarn over. Repeat like this in each marker. Happy knitting!
08.09.2024 - 18:14Marie Evans wrote:
I am knitting small size. I'm having difficulty with Raglan increases. I think it says Inc either side of all 4 markers 13 times and either side of markers 1 and 3 another 13 times. If I do this I end up with 252 sts split 63 between each marker. But pattern says I should have 76 sts back and front and 50 on each sleeve. To do this, keeping the 13 Inc rows either side of all 4 markers, I would have to Inc 13 before m1 and m3 and after m2 and m4. Please can you say which is right.
05.09.2024 - 23:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Evans, in S there are 24 sts for back/front piece, you increase 2 sts 3 times on neckline (6 sts), then 2 sts 3 times on every 2nd round (6 sts) (raglan-1) and at the same increase 2 sts 6 times (12 sts) as explained under raglan-2 and increase also 2 sts 14 times (28 sts) on every other round = 24+6+6+12+28=76 sts. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!
06.09.2024 - 09:08Van Hove Valerie wrote:
Bonjour J’ai pris beaucoup de plaisir à tricoter ce pull. Je vais commencer à faire les manches et je les souhaiterais longues! Auriez vous la gentillesse de me communiquer la suite des diminutions à faire pour ce modèle qui a des manches 3/4.merci beaucoup Valérie
05.09.2024 - 17:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Van Hove, vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle analogue avec la longueur des manches souhaitées, vous trouverez quelques exemples ici. Bon tricot!
06.09.2024 - 08:33Marie Gundersen wrote:
Str.S, ragl1=R1,ragl2=R2. Efter nakkeforhøjning R1 3 gange på hver 2.omg. Forståes. Samtidig R2 på hver 6.omg ialt 6 omg. ? der nåes jo kun 1 gang i løbet af de 3 gange R1. Skal jeg så fortsætte med R2 på hver 6.omg. i det næste hvor der laves R1 14 gange (kun halvt hver 2.gang), eller skal der strikkes 30 omg. kun med R2 inden jeg fortsætter med R1 de 14 omg?
27.08.2024 - 17:50Marion wrote:
Bonjour, comme beaucoup, j'ai besoin d'aide pour le raglan. Si j'ai bien compris les explications, au premier tour on fait les deux raglans en même tant. Soit : tricoter jusqu'à 3m avant le marqueur, 1aug (raglan 2), 2m end, 1 aug (raglan 1), 1m end, fil marqueur, 1m end, 1aug (raglan 1), 2m end, 1aug (raglan 2). Est-ce que c'est juste? Merci pour votre aide. Marion
27.08.2024 - 14:52DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marion, vous augmentez effectivement pour le raglan -2 2 mailles avant ou après le jeté du raglan -1. Bon tricot!
28.08.2024 - 08:33Valerie VAN HOVE wrote:
Bonjour Comment sait on en quelle taille on est? Je ne voit nul part les différentes mesures /taille. Le diagramme à la fin des explications est exprimé en quoi? En nombre de mailles? Merci de votre réponse. Bien à vous Valérie
16.08.2024 - 15:50DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Van Hove, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma du bas de page (exprimées en cm), vous trouverez ainsi la taille correspondante. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!
16.08.2024 - 16:12