DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Baby Talk

Knitted overall and hat for baby with moss stitch, garter stitch and crochet edge. The set is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino. Size overall: 1 month to 2 years Size hat: Premature to 4 years

DROPS Baby 33-30 DROPS design: Pattern no bm-102-by
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------

OVERALL:

SIZE:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equals approx. child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Size equals approx. child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 48-52-56-64 (68-76) = 19"-20½"-22-25¼" (26¾"-30")
Full length: 45-53-62-70 (81-90) = 17¾"-21"-24⅜"-27½" (32"-35½")

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300 (300) g color 37, light lavender
100-100-100 (100) g color 23, light beige mix

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 48 rows vertically in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5, length 60 cm = 24".
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm = US C/2 - for edges and ties.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:

SIZE: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Approx. head circumference:
(28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm = (11"/12½") 13⅜"/15" – 15¾"/16½" – 16½"/17¼" – 17¼"/ 18" (19"/19¾" – 19¾"/20½")

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 37, light lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 48 rows vertically in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Baby Newborn Sets Baby Rompers & Onesies Baby Hats & Headbands bottom up seamless sleeves seed st v-neck wrap-around

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (in the round - applies to hat):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

MOSS STITCH:
Row 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat 2nd row upwards.

INCREASE TIP (applies to overall):
Increase inside 1 edge stitch. All increases are done from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over. Knit yarn over twisted on next row, it should not make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to overall):
Decrease inside 1 edge stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch: Knit 2 together.

----------------------------------------------------------

BEGIN PIECE FOR OVERALL HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

OVERALL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work from bottom up. First work 2 legs, then work the legs together and knit back and forth up to sleeve. Cast on stitches for sleeve in each side of piece, and work front and back piece separately until finished. Sew shoulder and sleeve seams and crochet an edge around the opening on overall at the end. Work entire overall in moss stitch.

LEG:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the stitches.
Cast on 46-50-54-58 (66-70) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with light lavender. Work in MOSS STITCH over all stitches - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 6 cm = 2⅜", increase 1 stitch in each side of piece inside 1 edge stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 3rd-4th-5th-5th (8th-8th) row 11-11-12-14 (13-16) times in total = 68-72-78-86 (92-102) stitches. When piece measures 15-18-21-24 (29-34) cm = 6"-7"-8¼"-9½" (11⅜"-13⅜"), bind off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 2 next rows for gusset (i.e. bind off stitches in each side of piece) = 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way.

OVERALL:
Slip both legs on to same circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5, with bind off stitches towards each other = 116-124-136-152 (164-184) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 6 rows moss stitch back and forth, begin mid front.
Then work as follows: Cast on 3 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows (for front bands) = 122-130-142-158 (170-190) stitches. Insert 1 marker after 32-34-37-41 (44-49) stitches in from each side. Move the markers upwards when working, they mark front pieces and back piece.
Now increase stitches mid front (i.e. in each side of piece) so that the front pieces overlap. Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side of piece (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP! Increase on every 4th row 3-2-0-3 (2-13) more times, then on every 6th row 8-11-16-17 (21-15) times (= 12-14-17-21 (24-29) stitches increased in total in each side of piece) = 44-48-54-62 (68-78) stitches on each front piece = 146-158-176-200-218-248 stitches in total.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK INSIDE 1 EDGE STITCH WHILE AT THE SAME TIME DIVIDING THE PIECE AND CASTING ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE.
DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK AS FOLLOWS:
Work over all stitches until piece measures 17-20-25-28 (32-34) cm = 6¾"-8"-9¾"-11" (12½"-13⅜") from marker thread. Then decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch for neck in each side of piece (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this on every other row 20-24-27-31 (35-41) more times, then on every 4th row 2 times (= 23-27-30-34 (38-44) stitches decreased in total in each side of piece).
DIVIDE THE PIECE AND CAST ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE AS FOLLOWS:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
When piece measures 21-26-30-35 (40-43) cm = 8¼"-10¼"-11¾"-13¾" (15¾"-17") from marker thread, divide piece at the 2 markers and finish front and back piece separately. Adjust so that next row is from right side. Now work over stitches until first marker (= right front piece). Slip the remaining stitches on a stitch holder. Now cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of every row from right side as follows (NOTE: Continue to decrease inside 1 edge stitch at the beginning of row as before): Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve).
When all stitches are cast on and all decreases are done, there are 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm = 17¾"-21"-24⅜"-27½" (32"-35½") in total, measured from leg to shoulder. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work over the last stitches slipped on a stitch holder, until marker.
Work as right front piece but reversed - i.e. cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of row from wrong side. Continue to decrease inside 1 edge stitch at the end of row as before for neck.

BACK PIECE:
= 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Cast on new stitches at the end of every row in each side for sleeves as follows: Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve in each side of piece) = 124-144-160-180 (202-228) stitches.
When piece measures 44-52-61-69 (80-89) cm = 17¼"-20½"-24"-27⅛" (31½"-35") in total, bind off the middle 16-20-20-20 (22-24) stitches for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately (= 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches remain on each shoulder). Work like this until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm = 17¾"-21"-24⅜"-27½" (32"-35½") in total, measured from leg to shoulder, adjust according to front pieces. Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew overarm/shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches from right side.
Sew underarm seams together edge to edge in front loop of outermost stitches. Sew legs together inside 1 edge stitch, and sew the 5 stitches bind off between legs together. Sew vent up to where the 3 new stitches were cast on in each side for band stitches and sew the 3 band stitches in each side of piece to overall.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm = US C/2 with light beige around the entire opening mid front on overall as follows:
ROW 1 (= from wrong side): Begin mid front at the bottom of left front piece, work 1 single crochet in first stitch where 3 band stitches were cast on, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm = ⅜", 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge), continue crochet edge around overall until corner where decrease for neck began on left front piece, work tie as follows: 1 single crochet in tip, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm = 8"-9¾", turn and work 1 slip stitch in every chain stitch, then work 1 single crochet in tip on front piece again, work in the round until next tip (i.e. on right front piece), work tie, continue as before around the rest of overall down to where 3 band stitches were cast on, adjust to finish with 1 single crochet.
ROW 2 (= from right side): Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to work over ties so that the ties are under the edge, i.e. do not work in stitch in tie), finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet on previous row. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm = US C/2 with light beige mix at the bottom around both legs as follows:
ROUND 1: Begin at the seam. Work 1 single crochet in first stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm = US C/2 with light beige mix at the edge around both sleeves as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in first stitch at the bottom of sleeve, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm = ⅜", 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
Then work 1 tie like the one in the tip on right and left front piece, on the outside of left front piece, under sleeve (i.e. in the side) and on the inside of right front piece – make sure that the ties are at the same hight as tips on front piece.

----------------------------------------------------------

BEGIN PIECE FOR HAT HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Loosely cast on (68) 80-92-96-104 (112-116) stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with light lavender.
Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for (2) 2-3-3-3 (4-4) cm = (3/4") ¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛" (1½"-1½").
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and knit 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 8 stitches evenly = (60) 72-84-88-96 (104-108) stitches.
Continue with MOSS STITCH - see explanation above. When piece measures (9) 10-11-11-13 (13-14) cm = (3½") 4"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5⅛" (5⅛"-5½"), work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. On next knit round decrease (6) 8-7-8-8 (8-9) stitches evenly. Repeat decrease every other round (i.e. every knit round) (5) 5-5-5-5 (6-6) more times (= (6) 6-6-6-6 (7-7) decrease rounds in total) = (24) 24-42-40-48 (48-45) stitches.
On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2. Purl 1 round and repeat decrease on next knit round in size 6/9 and 12/18 months and (2 - 3/4) years (do not decrease in the other sizes) = (12) 12-11-10-12 (12-12) stitches.
Pull a double yarn through the remaining stitches and fasten tightly.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 25.03.2019
Correction - OVERALL: Work 6 rows moss stitch back and forth, begin mid front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (88)

Anna Ekerby wrote:

Under rubriken Dress. Jag har satt båda benen på samma rundsticka och jag ska nu sticka 6 varv mosstickning fram och tillbaka? . Min fråga: Är ett varv=fram och tillbaka?

19.10.2024 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anna. 1 varv = bare frem eller bare tilbake. mvh DROPS Design

23.10.2024 - 10:48

Susanne wrote:

HILFE!!!! Der Anzug ist gestrickt und zusammen genäht. Der Häkelrand klappt überhaupt nicht! Es zieht alles zusammen und sieht unmöglich aus. Auf dem Bild ist es definitiv anders. Ist die Anleitung denn richtig? Würde mich über schnelle Antworten freuen! Es eilt ihn fertig zu bekommen. 😊

28.09.2024 - 19:59

Liebe Susanne, bei der 1. Reihe der Häkelkante sollen Sie so häkeln, daß die festen Maschen die Arbeit nicht zusammen zieht, dh wenn man ca 1 cm überspringt, soll diese 1 cm genauso die Breite der Luftmasche stimmen; so wird die Kante nicht zu fest sein. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

30.09.2024 - 08:16

Aslaug Lockertsen wrote:

Ben:hvordan skal jeg felle de 5maskene? To og to sammen fem ganger eller to sammen,sette den ene tilbake,to sammen osv. Fem ganger,det blir tverrfelt og skjønner ikke da skrittet.

09.04.2024 - 21:36

Hei Aslaug, Du feller av (sånn som når du feller av på slutten av arbeidet) 5 masker på begynnelsen av neste 2 pinnene. God fornøyelse!

10.04.2024 - 06:35

Valérie wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas le la couture à faire pour l'entre jambes... Auriez voys un schéma ? Merci par avance car j'arrive à la fin mais je suis bloquée par cette couture.

17.12.2023 - 15:41

Bonjour Valérie, assemblez les mailles rabattues pour l'entrejambe sur le devant de l'ouvrage à celles rabattues pour l'entrejambe sur le dos de l'ouvrage, autrement dit, vous cousez les 10 mailles rabattues (5 m jambe gauche et 5 m jambe droite) côté devant aux 10 mailles rabattues côté dos (5 m jambe gauche et 5 m jambe droite). Bonne continuation!

18.12.2023 - 08:49

Yani wrote:

Bij de laatste deel waar je aan de mouwen gaat beginnen en het werk verdeelt, moet je voor de mouwen 4 keer 4 steken bij zetten. Is dit in een keer 16 steken erbij of elke naald 4 steken erbij zetten? En hoe worden ze er het bij bijgezet wznt bij de tip staat aan de kantsteek met omslag.

17.10.2023 - 10:21

Dag Yani,

Je zet er inderdaad elke naald 4 steken bij op, anders had er wel gestaan dat je 16 steken op moest zetten. Bij een van de video's kun je vinden hoe je steken opzet aan de zijkant.

18.10.2023 - 18:49

Hashim wrote:

Bonjour Je suis arrivée à la combinaison et j'ai glissé les mailles des deux jamnbes sur la meme aiguille circulaire. Que voulez vous dire en placant les mailles rabattues les unes contres les autres? Où dois je placer le fil marqueur? Ensuite je dois tricoter 6 rgs en point de riz en aller et retour, en commencant par le milieu devant. Comment je reconnais le milieu devant? Merci pour votre support

27.05.2023 - 15:03

Bonjour Hashim, vous devez avoir les 5 mailles rabattues à la fin de l'une des jambes contre les 5 mailles rabattues au début de l'autre jambe côte à côte. Vous placez votre fil marqueur le long/avant ce 1er rang, il va vous servir de repère pour mesurer la partie "combinaison". Le milieu devant est simplement la partie qui se trouve au milieu du devant (ouverture de la combinaison). Autrement dit, tricotez 1 des jambes sur l'endroit, puis tricotez l'autre jambe à suivre sur l'endroit, tournez et tricotez encore 5 rangs sur toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!

30.05.2023 - 10:29

Isabel wrote:

(Strl.68/72) Når man skal måle forstykkene, måler man fra starten av hele arbeidet eller fra slutten av foten der forstykkene begynner? Har strikket høyre forstykke men synes armen allerede er stor nok, så skjønner ikke hvorfor jeg skal da legge opp til ermer på bakstykket også, da blir jo armen gigantisk. Jeg har målt arbeidet fra der benet slutter og opp til skulder, er da 62cm.

16.05.2023 - 13:17

Hej Isabel, du starter på ærmerne når arb måler 21cm + et par pinde + 30 cm, så ærmegabet måler ca 62-52 = 10 cm hvilket stemmer fint med de mål du kan se i måleskitsen :)

17.05.2023 - 10:23

Hallo! Ik ben bijna klaar met het eerste pijpje. Ik heb net alle steken erbij gedaan en zit aan 68 steken maar ik meet maar 13 cm en geen 15. Hoe moet ik verder gaan?

21.04.2023 - 13:01

Je kunt, voordat je beide pijpen bij elkaar zet, gewoon verder breien met de bestaande steken tot een hoogte van 15 cm.

27.04.2023 - 08:10

Hallo! Ik ben bijna klaar met het eerste beenje te breien alleen zit ik vast van het meerdere tot 68 steken. Daarna zou je 15cm moeten hebben maar ik heb maar 13cm? Moet ik doorbreien tot 15? Bedankt ;)

20.04.2023 - 17:41

Na het meerderen brei je inderdaad door tot je de juiste lengte hebt bereikt.

20.04.2023 - 20:45

Hallo! Superleuk pake, maar ik heb een vraagje. Hoe meerder je aan de binnenkant van een kantsteek? Dankje

17.04.2023 - 19:48

Je meerdert zoals beschreven staat bij 'tip voor het meerderen' en je meerdert vlak naast de kantsteek. Dus tussen de kantsteek en de rest van het breiwerk.

17.04.2023 - 20:45