DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Time for Fun

Set consists of: Knitted onesie in garter stitch with crocheted edge, hat in garter stitch with crocheted edge and pompoms and socks for baby. Size <0 (= premature) - 4 years Set is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Baby 31-15 DROPS design: Pattern no bm-075-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET USE:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92) = 22"/24⅜" - 26¾"/29⅛"- 31½"/33⅞" (36¼")
To fit head measurement in cm: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50)/15¾"/16½" - 16½"/17¼" - 17¼"/18" (19"/19¾")
Fits foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm = 4"-4⅜"-4¾" (5½")

Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250 (300) g color 22, light gray
100-100-100 (100) g color 02, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (yarn group A)" - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 for edge in garter stitch – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm/C - for edges and ties.

SUIT:
Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104) = 19"/20½ - 22"/24⅜" - 26¾"/29⅛"- 31½"/33⅞" (36¼"-38½"/41")
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250-250 (300-300) g color 22, light gray
50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 02, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (yarn group A)" - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR Needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm/C - for edges and ties.
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HAT:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head circumference in cm:
approx. (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm / (11"/12½" ) 13½"/15" - 15¾"/16"-16"/17"-17¼"/18" (19"/19¾"-19¾"/20½")
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 22, light gray
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 02, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (yarn group A)" - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 for edge in garter stitch – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges and ties.
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Fits foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm / 4"-4⅜"-4¾" (5½")
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 (50) g color 02, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (yarn group A)" - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR Needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth - applies to suit and socks):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (in the round - applies to hat):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (applies to suit):
Increase inside 1 band stitch. All increases are done from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over. Knit yarn over twisted on next row, it should not make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to suit):
Decrease inside 1 band stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 1 band stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before 1 band stitch: Knit 2 together.
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SUIT:
Work from bottom up. First work 2 legs, then work the legs together and knit back and forth up to sleeve. Cast on stitches for sleeve in each side of piece, and finish front and back pieces separately until finished. Sew shoulder and sleeve seams and crochet an edge around the opening on suit in off white at the end. The entire suit is worked in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above.

LEG:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the stitches.
Cast on 46-50-54-58 (66-70) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light gray. Work in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 6 cm / 2⅜", increase 1 stitch in each side of piece inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 3rd-4th-5th-5th (8th-8th) row 11-11-12-14 (13-16) times in total = 68-72-78-86 (92-102) stitches. When piece measures 15-18-21-24 (29-34) cm/6"-7"-8¼"-9½" (11½"-13½"), bind off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 2 next rows (i.e. stitches are bind off in each side of piece) = 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way.

SUIT:
Slip both legs on to same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with bind off stitches towards each other = 116-124-136-152 (164-184) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 3 ridges back and forth, begin mid front.
Then work as follows: Cast on 3 band stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 122-130-142-158 (170-190) stitches. Insert 1 marker after 32-34-37-41 (44-49) stitches in from each side. Move the markers upwards when working, they mark front pieces and back piece.
Now increase stitches mid front (i.e. in each side of piece) so that the front pieces overlap. Increase 1 stitch inside 1 band stitch in each side of piece (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP! Increase on very 4th row 3-2-0-3 (2-13) more times, then on every 6th row 8-11-16-17 (21-15) times (= 12-14-17-21 (24-29) stitches increased in total in each side of piece) = 44-48-54-62 (68-78) stitches on each front piece = 146-158-176-200-218-248 stitches in total.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK INSIDE 1 BAND STITCH WHILE AT THE SAME TIME DIVIDING THE PIECE AND CASTING ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE.
DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK AS FOLLOWS:
Work in garter stitch over all stitches until piece measures 17-20-25-28 (32-34) cm from marker thread. Then decrease 1 stitch inside 1 band stitch for neck in each side of piece (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this on every other row 20-24-27-31 (35-41) more times, then on very 4th row 2 times (= 23-27-30-34 (38-44) stitches decreased in total in each side of piece).
DIVIDE THE PIECE AND CAST ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE AS FOLLOWS:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
When piece measures 21-26-30-35 (40-43) cm/8¼"-10¼"-11¾"-13¾" (15¾"-17") from marker thread, divide piece at the 2 markers and finish front and back piece separately. Adjust so that next row is from right side. Now work over stitches until first marker (= right front piece). Slip the remaining stitches on a stitch holder. Now cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of every row from right side as follows (NOTE: Continue to decrease inside 1 band stitch at the beginning of row as before): Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve).
When all stitches are cast on and all decreases are done, there are 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches on needle. Work in garter stitch until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm/17¾"-21"-24½"-27½" (32"-35½") in total, measured from leg to shoulder. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work over the last stitches slipped on a stitch holder, until marker.
Work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of row from wrong side. Continue to decrease inside 1 band stitch at the end of row as before for neck.

BACK PIECE:
= 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Cast on new stitches at the end of every row in each side for sleeves as follows: Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve in each side of piece) = 124-144-160-180 (202-228) stitches.
When piece measures 44-52-61-69 (80-89) cm/17¼"-20½"-24"-27" (31½"-35") in total, bind off the middle 16-20-20-20 (22-24) stitches for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately (= 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches remain on each shoulder). Work like this until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm/17¾"-21"-24½"-27½" (32"-35½") in total, measured from leg to shoulder, adjust according to front pieces. Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew overarm-/shoulder seams with grafting/Kitchener stitches from right side.
Sew underarm seams together edge to edge in outer loops of edge stsitches. Sew legs together inside 1 edge stitch, and sew the 5 stitches bind off between legs together. Sew vent up to where the 3 new stitches were cast on in each side for band stitches and sew the 3 band stitches in each side of piece to suit.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm/C with off white around the entire opening mid front on suit as follows:
ROW 1 (= from wrong side): Begin mid front at the bottom of left front piece, work 1 single crochet in first stitch where 3 band stitches were cast on, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm / ⅜", 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge), continue crochet edge around suit until corner where decrease for neck began on left front piece, work tie as follows: 1 single crochet in tip, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work 1 slip stitch in every chain stitch, then work 1 single crochet in tip on front piece again, work in the round until next tip (i.e. on right front piece), work tie, continue as before around the rest of suit down to where 3 band stitches were cast on, adjust to finish with 1 single crochet.
ROW 2 (from right side): Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to work over ties so that the ties are under the edge, i.e. do not work in stitch in tie), finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet on previous row. Fasten off.

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm/C with off white at the bottom around both legs as follows:
ROUND 1: Begin at the seam. Work 1 single crochet in first stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm/C with off white at the edge around both sleeves as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in first stitch at the bottom of sleeve, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm / ⅜", 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
Then work 1 tie like the one in the tip on right and left front piece, on the outside of left front piece, under sleeve (i.e. in the side) and on the inside of right front piece – make sure that the ties are at the same hight as tips on front piece.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on (68) 82-94-100-104 (112-116) stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with off white. Work in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above – until piece measures 3.5 cm/1¼" (= edge). On next round with knit, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and decrease 8 stitches evenly = (60) 74-86-92-96 (104-108) stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue in garter stitches until piece measures (17) 18-19-20-21 (22-23) cm/ (6¾") 7"-7½"-8"-8¼" (8¾"-9"). Bind off. Place hat flat and sew together at the top.

POMPOM:
Make 2 dense pompoms with a diameter of 5 cm / 2" with light gray and fasten at each end of seam.

CROCHET EDGE:
Turn hat inside out so that edge is worked from wrong side, this is folded later.
Work on hook size 2.5 mm/C with light gray around the edge on hat as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in first stitch, * 2 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round. Turn the hat with right side out and fold the edge up.
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SOCKS:
The sock is worked back and forth from mid back.

LEG:
Cast on 48-52-56 (56) stitches on circular needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with off white. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 5-6-6 (7) cm/2"-2½"-2½" (2¾"), adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Purl 1 row from wrong side while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 14-14-18 (14) stitches evenly = 34-38-38 (42) stitches.

WITH EYELET HOLES:
Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, repeat from *-* and finish with knit 1. Purl 1 row from wrong side.

WITHOUT EYELET HOLES:
Knit 1 row from right side and purl 1 row from wrong side.

FOOT:
Now slip the outermost 12-13-13 (15) stitches in each side on 1 stitch holder. Work 4-4½-5½ (6½) cm/ 1½"-1¾"-2¼" (2½") in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, over the middle 10-12-12 (12) stitches (= middle piece). Slip stitches from stitch holders back on needle and pick up 10-11-13 (16) stitches on each side of middle piece = 54-60-64 (74) stitches. Insert 1 marker after 27-30-32 (37) stitches in = middle of piece.
Work in garter stitch for 3-4-5 (5) cm/1"-1½"-2" (2") AT THE SAME TIME after 1½-2-2½ (3) cm/½"-¾"-⅞" (1⅛") decrease on every other row until finished measurements, as follows: Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and the end of piece and knit 2 together on each side of the 2 middle stitches. Bind off and sew together mid under foot and continue up mid back in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam.
If you wish, thread a silk ribbon through the eyelet holes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (44)

country flag Rossella wrote:

Vorrei fare questa tutina però non capisco un paio di cose : Iniziare dalle gambe con n.54 maglie per gamba mis 6/9 mesi rappresenta davanti e dietro della gamba ? Continuare il lavoro con gli aumenti capisco che viene lavorato tutto insieme ?! E poi perché e come si continua a lavorare prima il davanti e poi il dietro mettendo da parte le maglie ?

06.06.2024 - 00:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rossella, la tutina inizia con la lavorazione delle gambe che poi vengono messe sullo stesso ferro circolare e si lavora la tutina dividendo poi le parti per il davanti destro e sinistro. Buon lavoro!

06.06.2024 - 19:15

country flag Pia wrote:

Skall virka kanten runt om. På 2:a varvet är beskrivningen underlig. Vad menas? Tittar man på videon så är det två omgångar med 4 maskotens i samma luftmaska sedan hoppa över en fastnagla på arbetet etc. Er beskrivning är endast en gång 4 maskor etc. Sedan har ni skrivit + tecken.. vad menas där?

25.04.2024 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. Videoen er en mer generell video hvordan man kan hekle en kant på et arbeid. For å få lik kant som på plagget, følg beskrivningen (enten til luen, åpningen midt foran på dressen, beina på dressen eller på ermene). På 2. omgang til åpningen til dressen starter du med 1 luftmaske, nå starter du med å hekle "buene" som gjentar seg langs kanten slik: 1 fastmaske om første luftmaske fra 1. omgang, så * 4 luftmasker, deretter 1 stav i 4.luftmaske fra nålen, hopp over 1 fastmaske + 1 luftmaske + 1 fastmaske, så hekler du 1 fastmaske om neste luftmaske *. Så hekler du fra *-*, og følger beskrivningen i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

29.04.2024 - 08:16

country flag Pia Imbro wrote:

Jag har kommit till vänster framstycke. Höger med ärm är klart. Bakstyckets maskor sitter på tråd. Nu undrar jag hur jag skall göra. Det står; ”Sticka över de sista maskorna som sattes på en tråd, fram till markören.” Vad menas?

19.03.2024 - 08:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Nu sätter du maskorna som hör till vänster framstycke på stickan och stickar de enligt beskrivningen. Mvh DROPS Design

20.03.2024 - 13:36

country flag Lorraine wrote:

Help! I am really struggling to understand the instructions for the second row of the crochet border. What do you mean by double crochet around the first chain? What does treble crochet in 4th chain from hook meanWhen you say skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, does this mean skip all of them. I wam very new to crochet

01.02.2024 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lorraine, you will work 1 double crochet in the 1-chain-space, ie not in the chain but around the chain. Then work *4 chains and 1 treble crochet in the 1st of these 4 chains to create a picot, skip then (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) and repeat from *. Happy crocheting!

02.02.2024 - 08:14

country flag Victoria wrote:

In the overall:"Increase on very 4th row 3-2-0-3 (2-13) more times, then on every 6th row 8-11-16-17 (21-15) times (= 12-14-17-21 (24-29) stitches increased in total in each side of piece) = 44-48-54-62 (68-78) stitches on each front piece". My size is 6/9months so 0+16 is not 17 stitches. Could you please explain it. Thank you.

25.01.2024 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Victoria, in this size you have to work the first increase as described + 0 more times = 1 time then 16 times on every 6th row = 17 sts in total. Happy knitting!

26.01.2024 - 07:00

country flag Pia wrote:

Skall jag dela upp arbetet INNAN jag börjar med ärmarna? Fortsätter jag med rundstickorna? Mäter jag från grenens markör eller från framstycketsmarkören när det skall mätas från”markören”?

05.01.2024 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, arbejdet er allerede delt fra der hvor du har sat arbejdet sammen efter benene.... så vi forstår ikke rigtig hvor du er i opskriften. Start opskriften efter der hvor det står HELDRESSEN .... BEN ... Lägg upp 46 m (i den minste størrelse) osv...

11.01.2024 - 14:23

country flag Lovisa wrote:

När benen ska sättas på samma rundsticka, vad gör man med garnänden, från ena benet, som man inte fortsätter sticka med? På något sätt måste den ju fästas i arbetet, annars går det upp.

03.01.2024 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lovisa, ja du fäster alle ender når du er færdig med at strikke :)

09.01.2024 - 15:11

country flag Benafsha wrote:

Hello, for the hat it says Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around first chain stitch. I am not sure what that means. Is there any video explaining this part of the pattern? Thank you.

01.01.2024 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Benafsha, this video should help you understanding how to crochet the first row of the crochet edge. Just remember to follow the number of stitches stated in the pattern, even if the video is different, it's just showing the technique but other variations are worked the same way. Happy knitting!

02.01.2024 - 11:57

country flag Barbara Renna wrote:

Buona sera - sto eseguendo la tutina taglia 1/3 mesi.\r\ncome si fanno gli aumenti? dopo le 3 maglie del bordo e dai segnapunti per cui 4 aumenti per giro ? 2 ogni 4 ferri? 11 ogni 6 ferri? alla fine i numeri di maglie non mi tornano. forse sbaglio qualcosa ?\r\ngrazie e saluti\r\nBarbara

07.09.2023 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Barbara, deve aumentare ad ogni lato del lavoro 1 maglia (2 maglie aumentate), poi deve aumentare ogni 4 ferri altre 2 volte (4 maglie aumentate), poi ogni 6 ferri 11 volte (22 aumenti), per un totale di 28 maglie aumentate: passerà quindi da 130 a 158 maglie. Buon lavoro!

07.09.2023 - 23:25

country flag Myrth Eliassen wrote:

Ved montering, skal alle ‘sømmer’ syes sammen fra retten?

22.03.2023 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Myrth Ja, da vil du ikke få en tykk monteringskant. Men om du syns det blir penest fra vrangen, selv med en noe tykkere kant, kan du fint gjøre det. mvh DROPS Design

27.03.2023 - 10:54