DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
DROPS AW2425

Little Treasure

Baby set in BabyMerino and Cotton Viscose. Blanket in Alaska and Cotton Viscose. Theme: Baby blanket

DROPS Children 9-25 The set comprises jacket, jumpsuits, socks and hat

Size: 0/3-6/9-12/18 months

Materials: DROPS Baby Merino from Garnstudio
300-350-350 g color no 02, off white
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g color no 02, off white

JACKET:

Chest measurement: 52-60-68 cm/ 20½"-23½"-26¾".
Whole length: 26-28-31 cm / 10¼"-11"-12¼".
Sleeve length: 19-21-22 cm / 7½"-8¼"-8¾".

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5.
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm / C.

DROPS small button: 4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows in stockinette st on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the RS.
When binding off in the round follow the diagram for the appropriate size.

Edge-1: Work 3 rows in Stockinette st with Baby Merino, change to Cotton Viscose, work 1 row stockinette st, next row as follows seen from RS: * K2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-* (= folding edge, measure piece from here!), 1 row stockinette st. Change to Baby Merino, work 3 rows stockinette st.

Edge-2: Work in Baby Merino as follows: work 3 rows stockinette st, P1 row from RS, work 3 rows stockinette st. Bind off.

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Rib edge: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.

Seed stitch:
1st row: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over K and K over P. Repeat these two rows.

...........................................................

JACKET: Back and front pieces: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 137-157-177 sts (includes 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino.
Work edge-1 - see explanation above, knit edge st in garter st throughout.
After edge-1 work M.3 and then continue in M.2. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 14-15-17 cm/ 5½"-6"-6¾" work next row as follows: 31-36-41 sts front piece, bind off 8 sts for armhole, 59-69-79 sts back, bind off 8 sts for armhole, 31-36-41 sts front piece.
Leave piece aside.

Sleeve:
Cast on 38-38-40 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino. Work edge-1.
After edge work M.3, at the same time inc 2-2-4 sts evenly on row = 40-40-44 sts.
After M.3 continue with M.2 , at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm: 6-9-9 times on every 8th round = 52-58-62 sts.
When piece measures 19-21-22 cm/ 7½"-8¼"-8¾" bind off 8 sts mid under arm = 44-50-54 m. Leave piece aside.

Yoke:
Slip sleeves onto same circular needle as sweater where 8 sts have been bound off for armhole = 209-241-269 sts (includes 1 edge st on each side mid front).
Continuing in M.1 and bind off following the diagram with edge st in garter st.
On first row of diagram work as follows:
Size 0/3 months: inc 3 sts evenly on row = 212 sts.
Size 6/9 months: inc 3 sts evenly on row = 244 sts.
Size 12/18 months: inc 3 sts evenly on row = 266 sts.
When 9 rows are left of M.1 slip 5-7-8 sts on each side mid front on a holder for neck. Continue slipping sts on holder on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 2 times.
After M.1 slip sts from holder back onto needle.
Work 1 row stockinette st at the same time dec evenly to = 64-70-74 sts.
Collar: = 64-70-74 sts on row.
Work 1 cm / ⅜" rib edge – see explanation above – with Baby Merino.
Continuing, work collar so RS is seen when collar is lying down. Knit 3 rows garter st – with 3 sts seed stitch each side towards mid front - at the same time inc 12-16-12 sts evenly distributed on last row = 76-86-86 sts.
Then work 11 rows of M.2 – continue with 3 sts seed stitch on each side.
Then work 4 rows seed stitch on all sts, bind off.

Assembly:
Fold edges at bottom of sweater and sleeves double towards WS and sew.
Sew openings under sleeves.

Front band:
Pick up approx 60-76 sts along right front band – within 1 edge st – on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino.
Work Edge-2 – see explanation above.
Repeat along left front band.
Double edges towards WS and sew.

Crochet edge:
Work sc along front band and collar with Cotton Viscose on crochet hook size 2.5 mm/C - start at bottom of left front band, crochet sc into the P sts on the folding edge, continue up around collar and down along right front band – on right front band crochet 4 buttonholes evenly distributed over the top 10-11-12 cm/ 4"-4½"-4¾".
One buttonhole = ch 3, skip 1 cm / ½", work 1 sc in next st.

Sew on buttons.

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JUMPSUIT:
Size: 0/3-6/9-12/18 months

Chest measurement: 52-60-68 cm / 20½"-23½"-26¾".
Whole length: 26-28-31 cm / 10¼"-11"-12¼".
Sleeve length: 19-21-22 cm / 7½"-8¼"-8¾".

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5.
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm / C .
DROPS small buttons: 4 pcs.

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the RS.

Edge: work 3 rows stockinette st with Baby Merino, change to Cotton Viscose, work 1 row stockinette st, work next row as follows seen form RS: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge), 1 row stockinette st. Change to Baby Merino, work 3 rows stockinette st.

Rib edge: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.

Left leg:
Cast on 42-46-52 sts on double pointed needles 2.5 mm with Baby Merino, work edge – see explanation above.
After edge work M.3, then inc 20 sts evenly on row = 62-66-72 sts.
Continue with stockinette st in Baby Merino at the same time inc 2 sts mid inside leg: 11-13-13 times on every 5 rows = 84-92-98 sts. Remember knitting gauge!
When piece measure 17-19-22 cm/ 6¾"-7½"-8¾" (from eyelet row = folding edge) divide inside of leg (= split – to make it easier to slip leg sts onto one circular needle afterwards) complete knitting back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 86-94-100 sts.
When piece measures 18-20-23 cm/ 7"-8"-9" bind off 5 sts each side. Leave piece aside.

Right leg: Knit like left.

Pants: Slip legs onto same circular needle = 152-168-180 sts.
Continue in the round in stockinette st – at the same time on first round inc 1 st mid back on each side of the two middle sts and dec 1 st mid front on each side of the two middle sts.

Inc mid back as follows: 1 st on every other row 8 times.
Dec mid front as follows: 1 st on every other row 8 times.
= 152-168-180 sts.
When piece measures 37-46-51 cm/ 14½"-18"-20" work next round as follows:
Size 0/3 months: dec 2 sts evenly.
Size 6/9 months: inc 2 sts evenly.
Size 12/18 months: no inc or dec.
Now you have 150-170-180 sts on needle.
Work 3 cm / 1" rib edge – see explanation above.
Then continue with M.2 (ensure to place first "P sts" in pattern mid front).
When piece measures 42-51-56 cm/ 16½"-20"-22" work next round as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, work 69-79-84 sts front piece, bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 69-79-84 sts back, bind off 3 sts for armhole.
Complete front and back piece separately.

Front piece: = 69-79-84 sts. Continue in M.2 at the same time bind off each side for armhole on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times = 55-65-70 sts.
When piece measures 46-55-60 cm/ 18"-21½"-23½" bind off the middle 13-15-18 sts for neck and work each side separately. Bind off to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times = 14-18-19 sts left on shoulder.
When piece measures 52-62-68 cm/ 20½"-24½"-26¾" K 2 rows garter st before binding off.

Back: = 69-79-84 sts. Bind off for armhole as described for front piece.
Work until piece measures 50-60-66 cm/ 19¾"-23½"-26", now bind off the middle 21-23-26 sts for neck and work each side separately.
Bind off to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time = 14-18-19 sts left on shoulder.
When piece measures 52-62-68 cm/ 20½"-24½"-26¾" work 1 cm / ½" rib edge before binding off.

Assembly: Pick up approx 64-74 sts around right armhole on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino, work Edge back and forth on needle, bind off.
Repeat around left armhole.
Pick up approx 50-70 sts along front neckline on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino, work Edge back and forth on needle, bind off.
Pick up approx 32-40 sts along back neckline on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino, work Edge back and forth on needle, bind off.
Sew split tog on inside of each leg up to the bound off sts, then sew tog opening between legs from mid front to mid back on pants.
Fold all edges double towards WS and sew.
Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm/C with Baby Merino at the top of each shoulder on front pieces as follows:
1st row: sc.
2nd row: sc with two buttonholes evenly distributed, 1 buttonhole = ch 3-4, skip 1 cm / ⅜" and fasten with 1 sc in next sc.
Sew on buttons.
__________________________________________________________


SOCKS:
Size: 0/3- 6/9- 12/18 months
Sock foot length in cm: 10-11-12 cm/ 4"-4½"-4¾"

DROPS needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 row on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the RS.

Edge: Work 3 rows stockinette st with Baby Merino change to Cotton Viscose, work 1 row stockinette st, work next row from RS as follows: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge), work 1 row stockinette st. Change to Baby Merino, work 3 rows stockinette st.

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Rib edge: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 36-36-42 sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino.
Work Edge – see explanation above – forth and back on row from mid back. After Edge work M.3, then M.4, and then 11 rows of M.2.
Now piece measures approx 7.5 cm / 3" (measured from folding edge).
Work 2 rows rib edge, then work next row as follows: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-*. Work 2 rows rib edge. Slip 13-13-14 sts on each side of piece on a holder.
Work M.2 for 5-6-7 cm / 2"-2⅜"-2¾" over the middle 10-10-14 sts.
Slip sts from holder onto needle at the same time as picking up 13-16-18 sts up on each side of middle piece = 62-68-78 sts on needle.
Work 3-4-4 cm garter st over all sts – at the same time, after 2-2.5-2.5 cm/3/4"-⅞"-⅞" bind off on every other row: 1 st at beg and end of row - at the same time, K 2 tog on each side of 2 middle sts. Continue like this for 3-4-4 cm/ 1"-1½"-1½".
Bind off and sew seam under foot and up mid back with mattress sts in the outermost loop of the outermost st.
Fold top edge double towards WS and sew.

Make a tie string for sock: Cut 1 strand in Cotton Viscose of approx 240 cm/ 2.5 yds.
Double it. Get a friend to hold the one end and twist strands until it resists – double string and tie a knot each end (string = approx 50 cm/ 20" long), thread through the bottom hole edge. Make another tie string.
_________________________________________________________________


HAT:
Size: 0/3- 6/9- 12/18 months
Head circumference in cm: 41-45-48 cm / 16"-17¾"-19".

DROPS needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the RS.

Edge: Work 3 rows stockinette st with Baby Merino, change to Cotton Viscose, work 1 row stockinette st, work next row as follows – seen from RS: * K2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge), 1 row stockinette st. Change to Baby Merino, work 3 rows stockinette st.

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Knitted back and forth on needle from around the face and towards back and sewn tog mid back afterwards.
Cast on 73-83-87 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino, work Edge –see explanation above – but knit edge st in garter st throughout.
After edge work M.2, then work 3 rows stockinette st and then 2 rows reverse stockinette st.
Continue with M.2 until piece measures 11-13-14 cm/ 4½"-5"-5½" from folding edge.
Now work next row as follows: 1 edge st, * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st = 50-56-59 sts.
Work 4 rows stockinette st.
Work next row as follows: 1 edge st, * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st = 34-38-40 sts.
Work 4 rows stockinette st.
Work next row as follows: 1 edge st, * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st = 24-26-28 sts.
Work 4 rows stockinette st.
On next row K 2 tog across (not edge sts) = 13-14-15 sts.
Pull a double strand through these sts and tie ends tog and fasten.

Assembly:
Sew hat tog from pulled tog sts mid back and 4 cm / 1½" down towards neck – sew within 1 edge st.
Fold edge at front double towards WS and sew.
Pick up approx 52-62 sts round bottom edge (within 1 edge st) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino.
Work 2 cm / ¾" stockinette st, bind off = casing.
Fold casing double towards WS and sew.

Make a tie string: Cut 1 strand in Cotton Viscose of approx 3 m / 3 1/4 yds.
Double it. Get a friend to hold the one end and twist strands until it resists – double string and tie a knot each end (string = approx 60 cm/ 23½" long), pull through casing.

__________________________________________________



BLANKET in Alaska and Cotton Viscose
Measurement: approx 70 x 70 cm / 27½" x 27½".

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
350 g color no 02, off white.
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
250 g color no 02, off white.

DROPS needle size 6 mm / US 10 + crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6

Knitting gauge: 15 sts x 22 rows on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Alaska and 1 strand Cotton Viscose = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Crochet gauge: width of 15 sc on crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Alaska = approx 10 cm / 4".

Garter st: 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Lobster st: Work sc from RS but in opposite direction, i.e. from left to right.

Blanket:
Cast on 102 sts on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Alaska and 1 strand Cotton Viscose.
K 2 rows garter st, continue in stockinette st but work 1 st in garter st each side throughout. Remember knitting gauge!
When piece measures approx 67 cm/ 26½", K 2 rows garter st on all sts, bind off.

Crochet edge: Crochet around edge on crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 as follows:
1st row: work sc with Alaska.
2nd row: Work Lobster sts with 2 strands Cotton Viscose – see explanation above!


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Baby Merino: K on RS, P on WS
symbols = Baby Merino: P on RS, K on WS
symbols = Cotton Viscose: K on RS, P on WS
symbols = slip 1 st off needle at the same time as leaving the working thread on RS of piece
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = K2 tog, yo
symbols = M.1a is size 0/3 months, M.1b is size 6/9 months, M.1c is size 12/18 months
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Patricia Moody wrote:

Are the legs of the jumper knitted in the round before putting both legs on one circular needle?

03.02.2023 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia, yes, each leg is worked in the round in double pointed needles and afterwards they are joined in the same circular needle and worked together. Happy knitting!

05.02.2023 - 23:54

country flag Anne Assentorp wrote:

Jeg strikker huen i den mindste størrelse og efter hver indtagnings omgang skal der strikkes 4 p glat. Så er man jo på vrangen til næste indtagnings omgang. Vil det sige at man ikke skal gøre som der står, men strikke 1 vrang, 2 vrang sammen eller...strikke 3 eller5 p glat istedet, så man kun tager ind fra retten?? Mvh Anne

03.09.2022 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne. Du kan gjøre som du skriver, 3 eller 5 pinner glattstrikk. Så får du strikket maskene sammen fra retten :) mvh DROPS Design

05.09.2022 - 13:01

country flag Irmeli Myllymäki wrote:

Hei Miksi Suomenkielisessä ohjeessa ei ole neuleen kuvia tai mittoja. Myös mallineuleen ohje puutuu

15.08.2022 - 17:36

country flag Irmeli Myllymäki wrote:

Hei Miksi Suomenkielisessä ohjeessa ei ole neuleen kuvia tai mittoja. Myös mallineuleen ohje puutuu

15.08.2022 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, nyt piirrokset avautuvat.

22.08.2022 - 17:32

country flag Irmeli wrote:

Hei Miksi suomenkielisessä ohjeessa ei ole neuleiden kuvia eikä mittoja. Myös kuvioneuleeseen ohje puuttuu?

03.08.2022 - 18:59

country flag Frouwkje wrote:

Hallo. In de nederlandse beschrijving van het mutsje staat de zin "Brei na de rand M.2, brei dan 3 nld tricotsteek en 2 nld averechte tricotsteek." Ik ken wel tricotsteek maar wat is averechte tricotsteek? Ik heb het ook gegoogeld maar ik kan het nergens vinden! Alvast bedankt!

24.05.2022 - 14:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Frouwkje,

Averechte tricotsteek is averecht aan de goede kant en recht aan de verkeerde kant.

27.05.2022 - 08:50

country flag Helle Hyldgaard wrote:

Hej Kunne det evt være muligt at garnmængde kunne skrives ved hver del. Jeg vil nemlig gerne strikke i forskellige farver og det er lidt svært når der kun står samlet garnmængde for hele sættet. Pfh.

20.04.2021 - 11:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, Det har vi desværre ingen information om. Men her finder du lidt andre trøjer i DROPS Baby Merino som du kan sammenligne med: Baby - DROPS BabyMerino - Jakker

22.04.2021 - 09:52

country flag Penelope Hamp wrote:

What yarn weight dies this pattern require please - 4ply???

10.02.2019 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Penelope, this pattern uses Baby Merino yarn, which is 175 m / 50 gramm balls. That is ever so slightly thicker than the average sockyarn, so it falls into the sportweight category, and the DROPS yarn group A. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

11.02.2019 - 03:19

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hei! Er det mulig å legge ut et bilde av kysa slik at man ser litt mer av den? Nå ser man kun kanten på den framfra.

01.03.2017 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingrid, vi har desværre ikke flere billeder af kysen, vi håber du klarer dig med billedet i vuggen. God fornøjelse!

02.03.2017 - 09:11

country flag Judith Bunge-schuknecht wrote:

Ich habe die jacke fast fertig, aber die Übersetzung der anleitung des kragens ist eine Katastrophe. Ich bitte um hilfe.ich möchte die jacke gerne fertig stellen. L.g.

18.08.2015 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Der Absatz zum Kragen wurde nun neu übersetzt, hoffentlich ist es nun besser verständlich.

01.09.2015 - 16:10