DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
 100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
  3. Rompers & Onesies
  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 20
  6. 23

Little Blue Dream

Set of knitted jumpsuit with raglan and crochet teddy bear for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Change language:

DROPS Baby 20-23 DROPS design: Model no ME-043-by + ME-028-by
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JUMPSUIT
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-62 (68-74) cm / 19¾"-22"-24⅜" (26¾"-29⅛")
Full length: 45-53-62 (68-77) cm / 17¾"-21"-24⅜" (26¾"-30⅜")

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-400 g color no 15, light gray/green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 3.5 mm/US 4 – for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON LIGHT, no 503: 5-6-8 (8-9) pcs.
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BEAR:
Measure: length approx 30 cm / 11¾"

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50 g color no 07, light brown mix
50 g color no 19, light gray/blue
a remnant color no 01, off-white
a remnant color no 15, light gray/green
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
a remnant color no 151, guacamole
a remnant color no 400, black (for eyes)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 19 sc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4" – NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The bear will fill out when filled with poly stuffing.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C (for hearts).

POLY STUFFING for filling.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
 100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
JUMPSUIT:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASING TIP:
Make all dec from RS.
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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LEG:
Worked in the round. Cast on 48-54-60 (66-72) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. K 1 round and continue in rib K3/ P3. When rib measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly = 42-48-54 (60-66) sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. P 1 round and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 6-6-6 (7-7) cm / 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜" (2¾"-2¾") inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 3-4-5 (5-7) cm / 1⅛"-1½"-2" (2"-2¾") a total of 4 times = 50-56-62 (68-74) sts. When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm / 6¼"-8"-9" (9¾"-12½") divide piece at inside of leg and complete piece back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip sts on circular needle later on). Cast on 1 edge st each side = 52-58-64 (70-76) sts.
When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm / 7"-8¾"-9¾" (11⅜"-13⅜") bind off 1 edge st each side. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

BODY PIECE:
Slip legs on the same circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 = 100-112-124 (136-148) sts. Continue back and forth from mid front as follows (first row = RS): bind off 4 sts, K remaining sts on row. Turn piece, bind off 4 sts and P remaining sts on row = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts. Continue in stockinette st back and forth on all sts. When piece measures 37-45-53 (58-65) cm / 14½"-17¾"-21" (22¾"-25½") work next row as follows (from RS): 17-20-23 (26-29) stockinette sts (= right front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 42-48-54 (60-66) stockinette sts (= back piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 17-20-23 (26-29) stockinette sts (= left front piece).
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 36-42-42 (48-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round and continue in rib K3/P3. When piece measures approx 3 cm / 1⅛" K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-10-8 (12-10) sts evenly = 30-32-34 (36-38) sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and P 1 round. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue in stockinette st.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm / 2" inc 1 st each side of marker mid under sleeve, and repeat the inc on every 5-5-6 (6-6) round a total of 6-6-7 (8-9) times = 42-44-48 (52-56) sts. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-28) cm / 6¾"-7"-8¼" (9½"-11") bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (4 sts each side of marker) = 34-36-40 (44-48) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armhole = 144-160-180 (200-220) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between body piece and sleeves = 4 markers. Work stockinette st back and forth on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row dec 1 st each side of all markers for raglan - see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every other row (= every row from RS) a total of 10-11-12 (13-15) times. AT THE SAME TIME when you have dec 7-6-6 (6-7) times for raglan bind off for neck at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 3-3-4 (5-5) times and then 1 st 0-2-2 (2-3) times. After all dec for raglan and neck bind offs are complete there are 52-56-64 (72-74) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 45-53-62 (68-77) cm / 17¾"-21"-24⅜" (26¾"-30⅜"). Bind off all sts.

FRONT BAND:
Pick up 63-75-91 (95-103) sts along right front piece from bottom edge towards the neck on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and continue in rib as follows (from WS): 1 garter st, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2. When rib measures 2 cm / ¾" make buttonholes on next row from RS as follows: rib on the first 10-10-2 (6-2) sts, * P2 tog, 1 YO, 10 sts rib * repeat from *-* a total of 4-5-7 (7-8) times, finish with P2 tog, 1 YO, K2, 1 garter st. Continue in rib until front band measures 4 cm / 1½", bind off with K over K and P over P. Repeat on left front piece – do not make buttonholes.

HOOD:
Pick up approx 60 to 100 sts (do not pick up on front bands) round neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 44-48-52 (56-60) sts. Work 4 rows garter st. Then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 24 sts evenly = 68-72-76 (80-84) sts.
Continue in stockinette st with 1 garter st each side towards mid front until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾" (10⅝"-11"), bind off. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top, sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Pick up 112-124-136 (144-152) sts round opening of hood on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and continue in rib as follows (from WS): 1 edge st, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* on the next 108-120-132 (140-148) sts and finish with P2 and 1 edge st. Work rib for 8 cm / 3⅛", bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves and sew seam on the inside of leg inside 1 edge st. Sew left front band to the bottom of body piece where 8 sts were bound off Sew buttons to left front band. Sew the first 4 cm / 1½" from hood to the top edge of front band each side. Fold the other 4 cm / 1½" towards RS and fasten with a few sts.
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BEAR:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on round with ch 1 and finish each round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog to 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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HEAD AND BODY:
Beg at the top of head and after the head crochet the body. Then crochet ears, arms, and the hearts, which are sewn on afterwards.

HEAD:
SEE CROCHET INFO! Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6-11: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 12: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 13: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 14: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
Now fill the head with poly stuffing and continue in the round for body without cutting the thread.
ROUND 16-18: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 16 sc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 20 sc. Change to light gray/blue.
ROUND 21: 1 sc in each sc = 20 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc. Change to light gray/blue.
ROUND 23: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 24: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 25: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc. Change to light gray blue and crochet the rest of the body as follows:
ROUND 26-29: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 30: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 33 sc.
ROUND 31-39: 1 sc in each sc = 33 sc.
ROUND 40: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 41-46: Crochet 1 sc in each sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 47: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 33 sc.
ROUND 48: 1 sc in each sc = 33 sc.
ROUND 49: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 50: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 51: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 52: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 53: 1 sc in each sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 54: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 55: Crochet 2 sc tog all the way round = 6 sc.
Fill the body with poly stuffing, cut the thread, pull thread through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEGS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 8 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-*= 12 sc.
ROUND 3: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet in back loop of st.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet through both loops again.
ROUND 5: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet 2 sc tog at the beg and at the end of round = 10 sc.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet tog 5th and 6th sc and crochet tog 7th and 8th sc on round = 8 sc.
Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more leg in the same way. Fill the legs with poly stuffing and sew the legs to bottom of body.

ARMS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 4 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3-6: 1 sc in each sc = 8 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
Fill the arm with poly stuffing, place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 4 sc. Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more arm in the same way and sew arms to the side of body at the top.

EARS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 9 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 4-6: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 6 sc, turn piece and crochet 2 sc tog across the row = 3 sc.
Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head to the side. Crochet 1 more ear and attach to the opposite side of head.

SMALL HEART:
Ch 2 with hook size 3 mm / C with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 sc in first ch, turn piece. Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 5 sc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece. Crochet ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sc in middle of heart, ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row.
Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of bear.

LARGE HEART:
Ch 2 with hook size 3 mm / C with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 sc in first ch, turn piece. Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 5 sc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece.
Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 6 sc (includes ch at beg of row), turn piece.
Ch 4, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sc in the middle of heart, ch 4,1 dc in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row. Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of bear. Crochet 1 more heart and sew to the back of bear.

Embroider eyes and mouth at the front of bear with black.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.04.2018
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450 g colour no 15, light grey/green

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (129)

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Liebes Team, die Kapuze ist nicht das Problem, die ist fertig. Es geht um: "Rund um die Kapuze auf Rundnadel Nr. 3,5, 112-124-136 (144-152) M. aufnehmen." Die Kapuze selber hat ja viel weniger Maschen. Soll man hier auch Maschen über den Blenden aufnehmen? Ich weiß nicht genau, woher so viele Maschen aufgenommen werden sollen. Auf dem Foto sieht es so aus, als seien die Maschen von der Innenseite der Kapuze aufgenommen? Liebe Grüße....Anke

22.08.2024 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anke, die Kapuze misst ca 21-23-25 (27-29) cm x 2 Seiten, so werden Sie an den 42-46-50 (54-58) cm diese 112-124-136 (144-152) Maschen auffassen, man braucht soviele Maschen, weil das Bündchen die Arbeit zusammenzieht, gerne können Sie bei der 1. Reihe die Maschenanzahl anpassen, wenn Sie dann nicht soviele Maschen aufgefassen haben. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

22.08.2024 - 15:51

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht, wo genau ich die Maschen aufnehmen soll: Die Kapuze oben zusammennähen. Danach rund um die Kapuze .....Maschen aufnehmen? Die glatt re Reihen hatten ja 72 M. Wo setze ich an mit der Aufnahme und wo bekomme ich die ganzen M her? Soll ich die zunehmen?

21.08.2024 - 22:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, die Kapuze wird wie in diesem Video zusammengenäht, Unterschied ist das im Video strickt man 3 M Krausrechts beidseitig und in diesem Modell wird man anstattt die Maschen um die Kapuze auffassen um das Bündchen zu stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.08.2024 - 08:30

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Liebes Team, ich bin am Anfang der Blende. Soll man inclusive der 1. und 2. Reihe mit dem Bündchenmuster zusammen 2 cm erreichen bis die Knopflöcher gestrickt werden oder 2 cm allein das Bündchenmuster? Beginnt die Knopflochreihe in der Hin- oder Rückreihe?

09.08.2024 - 19:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, Sie können vom Anfang messen, die Krausrippe wird nicht so "hoch" sein; die Knopflöcher werden bei einer Hinreihe bearbeitet. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

12.08.2024 - 07:43

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Für die Raglanpasse werden doch sicherlich die Maschen des Stramplers zusammen mit den Maschen der Ärmel aufgenommen? Mit welcher Rundnadelstärke wird denn dann gestrickt? Es steht dort nur, dass alle Maschen auf eine Rundnadel gelegt werden. Wo genau sollen die vier Markierungen angebracht werden? Liebe Grüße.....Anke

02.08.2024 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, ja genau, alle Maschen werden mit der Nadel Nr 4,5 für die Passe gestrickt. Die Markierungen setzen Sie bei jedem Übergang zwischen Vorder-/Rückenteil und Ärmel. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

02.08.2024 - 14:28

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Hallo, ich bin bei der Maschenprobe für den Bären. Es steht 19 fM x 10 Runden. Sind also 20 R gemeint? Ansonsten hätte ich nur 5 cm bei 10 R. Die 19 M sind genau 10 cm. Oder soll man die Maschenprobe als Ring stricken, wie den Kopf? Meine 2. Frage bezieht sich auf den Kopf, beginnend mit dem Ring. Ich verstehe das nicht mit der Häkelinfo. Eigentlich ist doch jede Reihe erklärt. Mit lieben Grüßen Anke

22.07.2024 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, für die Maschenprobe sollen Sie 19 feste Maschen und 10 Reihen/Runden = 10 x 10 cm haben; beim Häkelinfo bedeutet es, daß man die 1. feste Masche der Runde mit einer Luftmasch ersetzt, die Runde endet dann mit 1 Kettmasche in diese Luftmasche. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

29.07.2024 - 11:09

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hi! Ich stricke gerade diesen süßen Strampler. Bei der Rundpasse weiß ich nicht, was Abnahme für die Passe am Anfang jeder R. "gegen die vordere Mitte abketten" 2 M. bedeutet. Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen. LG Barbara

19.07.2024 - 17:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, die Anleitung wurde sprachlich etwas umformuliert und ist nun hoffentlich eindeutiger. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

28.07.2024 - 11:49

country flag V Marsh wrote:

What length doubleended needles are required?

08.07.2024 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear V Marsh, we work with classic 20 cm DPN needles, but you can use shorter ones as well. Happy knitting!

08.07.2024 - 15:52

country flag Sheila Wrathmall wrote:

What doesM1 and M2 mean in your diagram for little lamb jumpsuit

07.05.2024 - 03:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wrathmall, do you mean on this pattern? M.1 and M.2 are the name of the diagrams to the both cables you will find next to the measurement chart, under sleeve - read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

07.05.2024 - 08:11

country flag Sheila Wrathmall wrote:

Thank you for your quick response I am looking forward to the end result as it is for my great grandson due to be born soon

26.04.2024 - 14:04

country flag Sheila Wrathmall wrote:

Is the measurement of 34 cm taken from the base of leg or where body pice starts

26.04.2024 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

See answer below

26.04.2024 - 13:48

Little Blue Dream



Set of knitted jumpsuit with raglan and crochet teddy bear for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS Baby 20-23
DROPS design: Model no ME-043-by + ME-028-by
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JUMPSUIT
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-62 (68-74) cm / 19¾"-22"-24⅜" (26¾"-29⅛")
Full length: 45-53-62 (68-77) cm / 17¾"-21"-24⅜" (26¾"-30⅜")

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-400 g color no 15, light gray/green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 3.5 mm/US 4 – for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON LIGHT, no 503: 5-6-8 (8-9) pcs.
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BEAR:
Measure: length approx 30 cm / 11¾"

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50 g color no 07, light brown mix
50 g color no 19, light gray/blue
a remnant color no 01, off-white
a remnant color no 15, light gray/green
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
a remnant color no 151, guacamole
a remnant color no 400, black (for eyes)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 19 sc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4" – NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The bear will fill out when filled with poly stuffing.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C (for hearts).

POLY STUFFING for filling.

JUMPSUIT:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASING TIP:
Make all dec from RS.
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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LEG:
Worked in the round. Cast on 48-54-60 (66-72) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. K 1 round and continue in rib K3/ P3. When rib measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly = 42-48-54 (60-66) sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. P 1 round and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 6-6-6 (7-7) cm / 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜" (2¾"-2¾") inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 3-4-5 (5-7) cm / 1⅛"-1½"-2" (2"-2¾") a total of 4 times = 50-56-62 (68-74) sts. When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm / 6¼"-8"-9" (9¾"-12½") divide piece at inside of leg and complete piece back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip sts on circular needle later on). Cast on 1 edge st each side = 52-58-64 (70-76) sts.
When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm / 7"-8¾"-9¾" (11⅜"-13⅜") bind off 1 edge st each side. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

BODY PIECE:
Slip legs on the same circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 = 100-112-124 (136-148) sts. Continue back and forth from mid front as follows (first row = RS): bind off 4 sts, K remaining sts on row. Turn piece, bind off 4 sts and P remaining sts on row = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts. Continue in stockinette st back and forth on all sts. When piece measures 37-45-53 (58-65) cm / 14½"-17¾"-21" (22¾"-25½") work next row as follows (from RS): 17-20-23 (26-29) stockinette sts (= right front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 42-48-54 (60-66) stockinette sts (= back piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 17-20-23 (26-29) stockinette sts (= left front piece).
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 36-42-42 (48-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round and continue in rib K3/P3. When piece measures approx 3 cm / 1⅛" K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-10-8 (12-10) sts evenly = 30-32-34 (36-38) sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and P 1 round. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue in stockinette st.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm / 2" inc 1 st each side of marker mid under sleeve, and repeat the inc on every 5-5-6 (6-6) round a total of 6-6-7 (8-9) times = 42-44-48 (52-56) sts. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-28) cm / 6¾"-7"-8¼" (9½"-11") bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (4 sts each side of marker) = 34-36-40 (44-48) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armhole = 144-160-180 (200-220) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between body piece and sleeves = 4 markers. Work stockinette st back and forth on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row dec 1 st each side of all markers for raglan - see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every other row (= every row from RS) a total of 10-11-12 (13-15) times. AT THE SAME TIME when you have dec 7-6-6 (6-7) times for raglan bind off for neck at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 3-3-4 (5-5) times and then 1 st 0-2-2 (2-3) times. After all dec for raglan and neck bind offs are complete there are 52-56-64 (72-74) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 45-53-62 (68-77) cm / 17¾"-21"-24⅜" (26¾"-30⅜"). Bind off all sts.

FRONT BAND:
Pick up 63-75-91 (95-103) sts along right front piece from bottom edge towards the neck on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and continue in rib as follows (from WS): 1 garter st, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2. When rib measures 2 cm / ¾" make buttonholes on next row from RS as follows: rib on the first 10-10-2 (6-2) sts, * P2 tog, 1 YO, 10 sts rib * repeat from *-* a total of 4-5-7 (7-8) times, finish with P2 tog, 1 YO, K2, 1 garter st. Continue in rib until front band measures 4 cm / 1½", bind off with K over K and P over P. Repeat on left front piece – do not make buttonholes.

HOOD:
Pick up approx 60 to 100 sts (do not pick up on front bands) round neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 44-48-52 (56-60) sts. Work 4 rows garter st. Then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 24 sts evenly = 68-72-76 (80-84) sts.
Continue in stockinette st with 1 garter st each side towards mid front until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾" (10⅝"-11"), bind off. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top, sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Pick up 112-124-136 (144-152) sts round opening of hood on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and continue in rib as follows (from WS): 1 edge st, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* on the next 108-120-132 (140-148) sts and finish with P2 and 1 edge st. Work rib for 8 cm / 3⅛", bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves and sew seam on the inside of leg inside 1 edge st. Sew left front band to the bottom of body piece where 8 sts were bound off Sew buttons to left front band. Sew the first 4 cm / 1½" from hood to the top edge of front band each side. Fold the other 4 cm / 1½" towards RS and fasten with a few sts.
--------------------------------------------------------

BEAR:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on round with ch 1 and finish each round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog to 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
---------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------

HEAD AND BODY:
Beg at the top of head and after the head crochet the body. Then crochet ears, arms, and the hearts, which are sewn on afterwards.

HEAD:
SEE CROCHET INFO! Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6-11: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 12: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 13: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 14: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
Now fill the head with poly stuffing and continue in the round for body without cutting the thread.
ROUND 16-18: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 16 sc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 20 sc. Change to light gray/blue.
ROUND 21: 1 sc in each sc = 20 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc. Change to light gray/blue.
ROUND 23: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 24: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 25: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc. Change to light gray blue and crochet the rest of the body as follows:
ROUND 26-29: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 30: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 33 sc.
ROUND 31-39: 1 sc in each sc = 33 sc.
ROUND 40: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 41-46: Crochet 1 sc in each sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 47: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 33 sc.
ROUND 48: 1 sc in each sc = 33 sc.
ROUND 49: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 50: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 51: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 52: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 53: 1 sc in each sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 54: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 55: Crochet 2 sc tog all the way round = 6 sc.
Fill the body with poly stuffing, cut the thread, pull thread through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEGS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 8 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-*= 12 sc.
ROUND 3: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet in back loop of st.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet through both loops again.
ROUND 5: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet 2 sc tog at the beg and at the end of round = 10 sc.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet tog 5th and 6th sc and crochet tog 7th and 8th sc on round = 8 sc.
Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more leg in the same way. Fill the legs with poly stuffing and sew the legs to bottom of body.

ARMS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 4 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3-6: 1 sc in each sc = 8 sc. Change to light gray/green.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
Fill the arm with poly stuffing, place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 4 sc. Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more arm in the same way and sew arms to the side of body at the top.

EARS:
Ch 4 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 9 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 12 sc.
ROUND 4-6: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 6 sc, turn piece and crochet 2 sc tog across the row = 3 sc.
Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head to the side. Crochet 1 more ear and attach to the opposite side of head.

SMALL HEART:
Ch 2 with hook size 3 mm / C with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 sc in first ch, turn piece. Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 5 sc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece. Crochet ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sc in middle of heart, ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row.
Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of bear.

LARGE HEART:
Ch 2 with hook size 3 mm / C with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 sc in first ch, turn piece. Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 5 sc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece.
Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st = 6 sc (includes ch at beg of row), turn piece.
Ch 4, 1 dc in first ch, 1 sc in the middle of heart, ch 4,1 dc in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row. Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of bear. Crochet 1 more heart and sew to the back of bear.

Embroider eyes and mouth at the front of bear with black.

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