DROPS Pelliza
DROPS Pelliza
100% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS AW2425
DROPS Baby 10-2 Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80
Size in feet: 1f8/1ft10 - 2ft/2ft3 - 2ft5/2ft7

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements (jacket): 54-60-66 cm = 21¼"-23⅝"-26"
Full length (jacket): 30-32-36 cm = 11¾"-12½"-14¼"
Full length (jumpsuit): 57-62-68 cm = 22½"-24⅜"-26¾"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: Garnstudio’s Baby-ull
Jacket:
150-150-150 g color no 05, light pink
Jumpsuit:
100-150-150 g color no 05, light pink
and use: Garnstudio’s Pelliza
Jacket and rabbit:
150-200-200 g color no 26, light pink
50-50-50 g color no 12, off-white
+ a remnant of brown wool for the rabbit’s whiskers and eyes
Jumpsuit:
150-150-150 g color no 26, light pink

DROPS pointed and circular needle size 2.5 = US 1,5, 4 and 5 MM = US 8
DROPS mother-of-pearl button, no 523, 5 pcs.
Cotton wool for ears on the jacket and for the rabbit

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Pelliza
DROPS Pelliza
100% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
Knitting gauge: 15 sts x 22 rows on needle size 5 MM = US 8 in stockinette sts with 1 thread Baby-ull and 1 thread Pelliza (double thread) = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
Garter sts (back and forth on needle: knit all rows.
Garter sts (on circular needle): 1st round: K, 2nd round: P.
Decreasing tips (apply to jumpsuit): Dec for armhole and neck inside 2 sts in garter sts. All dec are made from the RS.
Dec as follows before 2 sts: K2 tog
Dec as follows after 2 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Buttonhole: Make 5 buttonholes on right front edge on jacket from the RS. 1 buttonhole = bind off the 3rd st from the edge and cast on 1 new st n the same place on the return row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 cm = 2", 4", 6", 8" and 9¾"
Size 6/9 months: 6, 12, 17, 22 and 27 cm = 2⅜", 4¾", 6¾", 8¾" and 10⅝"
Size 12/18 months: 7, 13, 19, 25 and 31 cm = 2¾", 5⅛", 7½", 9¾" and 12¼"

JACKET:

Back piece: Cast on 43-47-52 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 thread Baby-ull and 1 thread Pelliza and knit 4 rows of garter sts. Change to needle size 5 = US 8 and continue in stockinette sts. Remember the knitting gauge! When piece measures 19-20-23 cm = 7½"-8"-9" bind off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 4-5-6 times = 29-31-34 sts. When piece measures 28-30-34 cm = 11"-11¾"-13⅜" bind off the middle 11-11-14 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 8-9-9 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 30-32-36 cm = 11¾"-12½"-14¼".

Left front piece: Cast on 27-29-31 sts (incl 1 edge st at side + 4 front edge sts towards mid front) on needle size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 thread Baby-ull and 1 thread Pelliza and knit 4 rows in garter sts. Change to needle size 5 = US 8 and continue in stockinette sts with all edge sts in garter sts. When piece measures 19-20-23 cm = 7½"-8"-9" bind off for armhole at the side as done for back piece = 20-21-22 sts. When piece measures 26-28-32 cm = 10¼"-11"-12½" bind off 7-7-8 sts towards mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 3-3-3 times. Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 30-32-36 cm = 11¾"-12½"-14¼".

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front piece, but mirrored, and make 5 buttonholes – see above.

Sleeve: The pattern allows for 5 cm = 2" turn-up. Cast on 26-29-31 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 with 1 thread Baby-ull and 1 thread Pelliza and knit 5 rows of garter sts (= turn-up). Insert a marker and measure piece from here. Continue in stockinette sts. When piece measures 5-5-5 cm = 2"-2"-2" inc 1 st each side a total of 3-3-4 times on every 6-6-5 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2" = 32-35-39 sts. When sleeve measures 27-29-31 cm = 10⅝"-11⅜"-12¼" bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 2-2-3 rimes, 1 st 2-3-3 times and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 28-31-33 cm = 11"-12¼"-13". Bind off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seam.
Hood: Pick up approx 35 to 40 sts round the neck on needle size 5 MM = US 8 with 1 thread Baby-ull and 1 thread Pelliza and knit stockinette sts with 4 edge sts in garter sts each side. After 1 cm = ⅜" inc evenly on row to 50-52-54 sts. Continue until hood measures 24-25-26 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼" and bind off. Sew tog hood at the top.
Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.
Ears: Cast on 12 sts on needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with 1 thread Baby-ull. Knit 2 rows in garter sts and continue in stockinette sts with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. When piece measures approx 4.5 cm = 1⅝" dec 1 st inside the edge st each side on every other row 4 times. Now bind off the remaining 4 sts from the WS.
Knit 2 ears in pink Baby-ull (= the inside of the ears) and 2 ears in off-white Pelliza (= the outside of the ears). Place 1 ear in Baby-ull on top of 1 ear in Pelliza and sew tog with off-white Pelliza from the RS – don’t sew the bottom edges. Fill the ears with cotton wool and attach them to the top of the hood.

JUMPSUIT:

Left leg: Start mid under foot and knit back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 32-36-38 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on circular needles size 5 MM = US 8 with 1 thread Baby-ull and 1 thread Pelliza and knit stockinette sts. When piece measures 2 cm = ¾" insert a marking thread and measures piece from here. After 3-3.5-4 cm = 1⅛"-1¼"-1½" dec each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time and 2 sts 2-2-2 times = 18-22-24 sts. Distribute the sts on double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and knit round in stockinette sts. When piece measures 5-6-7 cm = 2"-2⅜"-2¾" inc 6 sts evenly = 24-28-30 cm = 9½"-11"-11¾". Repeat the inc on every 2 cm = ¾" a total of 3 times = 42-46-48 sts. When piece measures 16-20-23 cm = 6¼"-8"-9" (from marker) divide piece after the 10th-11th-12th st from mid front (= inner side of leg and split to facilitate putting legs on the same circular needle later). Finish leg back and forth on needle and inc 1 st each side for seam = 44-48-50 sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 cm = 7"-8¾"-9¾" bind off 2 sts each side = 40-44-46 sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: Cast on and knit as left leg but with the split the other side.

Body: Put both legs on the same circular needle = 80-88-92 sts. Knit 3 rounds in stockinette sts and now inc mid back and dec mid front as follows: Inc 1 st on each side of the 2 middle sts mid back on every other round 6 times and dec 1 st on each side on the 2 middle sts mid front 4-6-6 times on every other row: before the 2 middle sts K2 tog, after the 2 middle sts slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso. When piece measures 25-29-32 cm = 9¾"-11⅜"-12½" dec 4-4-4 sts evenly on row = 80-84-88 sts. Repeat the inc when piece measures 32-36-38 cm = 12½"-14¼"-15" and 39-43-45 cm = 15¼"-17"-17¾" = 72-76-80 sts. Insert a marking thread each side. When piece measures 47-51-54 cm = 18½"-20"-21¼" P 1 row over the 8-8-8 sts each side and then bind off 4-4-4 sts each side for armhole. Now finish front and back pieces separately back and forth on needle.
Front piece: = 32-34-36 sts. Dec for armhole – see decreasing tips – 1 st each side on every other row 3-3-2 times = 26-28-32 sts. Continue with 2 sts each side in garter sts. When piece measures 53-58-63 cm = 21"-22¾"-24¾" P 1 row over the middle 10-12-14 sts. Now bind off the middle 6-8-10 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline – see decreasing tips – on every other row: 1 st 3-3-3 times = 7-7-8 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 57-62-68 cm = 22½"-24⅜"-26¾" continue in garter sts over all shoulder sts, at the same time after 2 rows make 2 buttonholes as follows: K1, bind off 1 st, K 3-3-4 sts, bind off 1 st, K1. On the return row make a yo over the bind off sts. Bind off after 6 rows in garter sts. Knit the other shoulder the same way.
Back piece: = 32-34-36 sts. Dec for armhole as done for front piece = 26-28-32 sts. When piece measures 55-60-66 cm = 21⅝"-23⅝"-26" P 1 row over the middle 12-14-16 sts. Now bind off the middle 8-10-12 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline – see decreasing tips – on every other row: 1 st 2-2-2 times = 7-7-8 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 57-62-68 cm = 22½"-24⅜"-26¾" knit 6 rows in garter sts over all shoulder sts and bind off.

Pocket: Cast on 24-25-27 sts on needle size 5 MM = US 8 with 1 thread Baby-ull and 1 thread Pelliza. Knit 2 rows in garter sts and continue in stockinette sts with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. When piece measures 13-13-14 cm = 5⅛"-5⅛"-5½" P 1 row over all sts and bind off.

Assembly: Sew the seam from the heel and to the top of the toes with Baby-ull inside 1 edge st. Sew the split on the inside of the legs up to the bind off sts and then the opening between the legs from mid front to mid back. Sew on the pocket mid front approx 11-13-15 cm = 4⅜"-5⅛"-6" from the neckline. Sew on buttons.

RABBIT:
Size: approx 26 cm = 10¼"

Knitting gauge: 25 sts x 34 rows on needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

The rabbit is knitted from bottom up in 2 pieces and sewn tog afterwards.

Back piece: Cast on 10 sts (= 1 leg) on needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with Pelliza and knit stockinette sts. When piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" put sts on a thread and knit the other leg. Put the 2 legs on the same needle as follows: 10 sts (= 1 leg), cast on 1 new st, 10 sts (= 1 leg) = 21 sts. Continue in stockinette sts until piece measures 13 cm = 5⅛". Now cast on 10 new sts each side for arms = 41 sts. When piece measures 16 cm = 6¼" bind off 13 sts each side = 15 sts. When piece measures 20 cm = 8" bind off the middle 3 sts and finish each ear separately. 1 ear = 6 sts. Continue in stockinette sts until piece measures 26 cm = 10¼" and bind off). Knit the other ear in the same way.

Front piece: Cast on and knit as back piece.

Assembly: Sew the pieces tog using Pelliza – sew from the right side and fill with cotton wool as you go along. Sew on pink snout and brown eyes and pull 3 brown strands through the snout as whiskers.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (1)

country flag Schauer Veronika wrote:

Da es die Originalwolle nicht mehr gibt habe ich folgende Frage: Was empfehlen Sie als Ersatz für Pelliza?

04.11.2013 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Veronika, den starken Pelzeffekt erreicht man mit den Garnalternativen zwar nicht, aber ich würde Ihnen Kid Silk (zusammen mit Baby Merino) empfehlen. Achten Sie bei Garnalternativen besonders auf die Maschenprobe, bevor Sie das Modell stricken.

05.11.2013 - 09:18