DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS Stripe sweater and knee length pants, socks and hat in Safran.

DROPS Baby 1-5 Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
100-150 (150-200) g col 009, navy
Small amount of col 019, red
Small amount of col 006, blue
Small amount of col 011, yellow

DROPS circular needle, double pointed needles and pointed needles: 2.5mm and 3mm/ US 1.5 and 2.5, or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
DROPS buttons: 3 pcs.

Knitting gauge: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10x10cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

Rib: *K1, P1*

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 repeat). Pattern is seen from RS and worked in stockinette st.

Body:
Cast on 120-134 (148-158) sts on circ needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with navy.
Work 3-3 (4-4) cm rib. Change to circ needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work M.2. and at the same time inc 0-0 (6-6) sts evenly on first round = 120-134 (154-164) sts.
- remember to check knitting gauge - Continue until piece measures 14-15 (17-19) cm. Bind off 4-6 (6-6) sts each side for armhole and finish front and back separately.

Front: = 56-61 (71-76) sts. Dec for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 1 st twice = 52-57 (67-72) sts.
Continue until piece measures 22-24 (28-31) cm. Bind off centre 12-15 ((17-20) sts for neck and dec on neck edge on every other row as follows:
Right shoulder: 3 + 6/9 mnts: 2 sts twice, 1 st 3 times. 12/18 + 24 mnts: 3 sts once, 2 sts once, 1 st twice.
Continue until piece measures 26-28 (31-34) cm. Bind off.
Left shoulder: 3 + 6/9 mnts: 2 sts twice. 12/18 + 24 mnts: 3 sts once, 2 sts once. Continue until piece measures 25-27 (30-33) cm. Change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work 2 cm / ¾" rib, but after 2 rows make 2 button holes evenly spaced – 1 buttonhole= bind off 2 sts, cast on 2 sts on next row.
Bind off.

Back: = 56-61 (71-76) sts. Dec for arm hole as front. Continue until piece measures 25-27 (30-33) cm. Bind off centre 24-27 (29-32) sts for neck.
Right shoulder: Dec 1 st on next row on neck edge. Continue until piece measures 26-28 (31-34) cm. Bind off remaining sts for shoulder.
Left shoulder: Dec 1 st on next row on neck edge. Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 28-30 (33-36) cm. Bind off.

Sleeves: Cast on 38-40 (40-42) sts on pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with navy. Work 2-2 (3-3) cm rib. Change to needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work M.2 and at the same time inc 0-4 (7-10) sts evenly on first row = 38-44 (47-52) sts.
At the same time inc each side inside 1 edge st as follows: 1 st 10-9 (10-10) times for 3months: every 4th row, for 6/9 + 24 months: every 6th row, for 12/18 months: alternatively every 5th and 6th row = 58-62 (67-72) sts. Continue until piece measures 16.5-20 (22-24) cm.
Bind off 2 sts each side for sleeve top. Further bind off each side on every other row as follows: 5 sts 2-3 (3-3) times.
Continue until piece measures 18-22 (24-26) cm. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 70-76 sts around neck opening on circ needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with navy. Work 2 cm / ¾" in rib working back and forth on needle, and at the same time after 2 rows, make button hole on left shoulder .
Bind off. Sew sleeves to body in edge st to avoid seams being too bulky. Sew sleeve seams. Sew in buttons.

Pants:

Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months

Materials: DROPS Safran 100% Egyptian cotton 50 g= 160m
50-50 (50-50) g col 019, red
50-50 (50-50) g col 011, yellow
50-50 (50-50) g col 009, navy

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles: 2.5mm and 3mm/ US 1.5 and 2.5.
DROPS buttons: 2 pcs

Knitting gauge: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10x10cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*

Hem:
Work 3 cm / 1" in stockinette st, P1 round (all measurements are taken from here), K 1 round in stockinette st, change to blue and work 3 cm / 1" in stockinette st.

Right leg:
Cast on 42-52 (62-70) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with red and work hem. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work stockinette st, and at the same time inc 34-34 (34-36) sts evenly on 1st round = 76-86 (96-106) sts. Remember to check knitting gauge.
Continue until piece measures 9-11 (13-15) cm.
Divide work on inside of leg and work back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 78-88 (98-108) sts.
Continue until piece measures 10-12 (14-16) cm. Dec 4-5 (5-6) sts each side = 70-78 (88-96) sts. Put work aside.

Left leg: Work as right leg.

Pants:
Put left and right legs on a circ needle = 140-156 (176-192) sts. Remember to check knitting gauge. Inc 1 st in last st on each leg (these 2 sts = mid front and mid back) = 142-158 (178-194) sts).
Dec mid front each side of mid 2 sts on every other round as follows: 1 st 5 times.
Right side of centre: S1, K1, psso.
Left side: K2tog.
At the same time inc mid back each side of mid 2 sts on every other round as follows: 1 st 5 times = 142-158 (178-194) sts.
Continue until piece measures 28-32 (36-41) cm.
Work M.2 across mid front 26 sts. (or embroider the motif) .
Change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work rib (use 1 extra needle as M1. is worked on needle 3mm) across the remaining 116-132 (152-168) sts and at the same time dec 35 sts evenly on row ( not on the centre 26 sts) = 81-97 (117-133) sts.
Continue until rib measures 1.5 cm, then make 2 buttonholes mid back with 10 cm / 4" gap between. 1 buttonhole= bind off 2 sts, then cast on 2 sts on next round.
Continue until rib measures 3 cm / 1⅛", keep 5 sts in rib each side of M.1. and bind off the remaining sts. Complete M.1.
Work 6 rows in rib across all sts , then bind off mid 18 sts.
Work 25-30 (35-35) cm in rib for braces over the 9 edge sts each side on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew seam between legs. Sew in buttons.

Socks:

Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months.

Length of foot: 10-11 (12.5-14.5) cm.

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
50-50 (50-50) g col 019, red

DROPS double pointed needles: 3mm/ US 2.5.

Knitting gauge: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10x10cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*

Cast on 34-36 (36-38) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with red. Work 1.5 cm in rib.
Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work stockinette st. until work measures 7-8 (8-9) cm.
Heel: Work 3 cm / 1" in stockinette st back and forth on needle over mid 18 sts.
Decrease for heel: (1st row RS):
1st row: K10, K2tog back of loop, K1, turn.
2nd row: S1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn.
3rd row: S1, K5, K2tog back of loop, K1, turn.
4th row: S1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn.
5th row: S1, K7, K2tog back of loop, K1, turn.
6th row: S1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn.
7th row: K2tog, K8, K2tog back of loop = 10 sts left on needle.

Pick up 7-7 (8-8) sts each side of heel and put all sts on one needle = 40-42 (44-46) sts. Dec each side of the 16-18 (18-20) sts on top of foot on every row as follows: 1 st 4-4 (5-5) times = 32-34 (34-36) sts.
Continue until foot measures 7-8 (9-11) cm (measured from start of heel dec).
Dec for toes at beginning of each row (4 dec in all) 1 st 4-4 (5-5) times, then on every other row: 1 st twice. Pull double strands through remaining sts and fasten.

Hat:

Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months.
Head measurement: 41-45 (48-50) cm.

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
50-100 (100-100) g col no 006, blue
Small amount of col no 019, red

DROPS double pointed needles: 2.5mm and 3mm/ US 1.5 and 2.5.

Knitting gauge: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette st = 10x10cm.

Cast on 8 sts on evenly on 4 needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 (use 5th needle to work round) with blue. Remember to check knitting gauge.
Inc as follows:
1st round: K in back of loop.
2nd round: Inc 1 st in every st = 16 sts.
3rd and all odd number rows: K.
4th round: Inc 1 st in every other st = 24 sts.
6th round: K2, inc 1 st, *inc 1 st in every 3rd st* = 32 sts.
8th round: Inc 1 st in every 4th st = 40 sts.
10th round: K3, inc 1 st, *inc 1 st in every 5th st* = 48 sts.
12th round: inc 1 st, *inc 1 st in every 6th st = 56 sts.
14th round: K4, inc 1 st , *inc 1 st in 7th st = 64 sts.
16th round: K1, inc 1 st, *inc 1 st in every 8th st* = 72 sts.
18th round: K5, inc 1 st, * inc 1 st in every 9th st* = 80 sts.
20th round: K1, inc 1 st, *inc 1 st in every 10th st = 88 sts.
Continue to inc in this way and start inc alternatively starting with K1 and 6, 7, 8 etc. Continue until piece measures 12-14 (14-14) cm.
Work 4 rounds over all sts without inc.
Dec sts in opposite order to the inc until dec measures 6-7 (7-7) cm.
Dec evenly on round until 107-117 (125-130) sts on needle.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work 3 cm / 1⅛" in stockinette st.
Change to red, work 1 round in stockinette st, P1 round, 3cm in stockinette st.
Bind off. Fold hem to WS and sew.
Make a small pompom in red and fasten to top of hat.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= blue
	= navy
	= red
	= yellow

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Therese Grollimund wrote:

Was bedeutet bei der Hose: Kante: 3 cm glatt , 1 R. li. (von hier wird die Arbeit weitergemessen), 1 R. glatt, zu blau wechslen und 3 cm stricken. Sind da während 3cm die Randmaschen gemeint? Was ist eine Kante? Freundliche Grüsse Therese Grollimund In welchem Muster wird gestrickt?

15.08.2024 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Grollimund, in diesem Video zeigen wir, wie man so eine Kante strickt, dh mit den roten Faden die Maschen anschlagen, dann die 3 cm glatt rechts stricken, dann 1 Runde links, 1 Runde rechts, und mit blau 3 cm glatt rechts stricken. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

16.08.2024 - 07:38

Melissa wrote:

Hi there! I was wondering why the legs of the pants have to be worked back and forth before reaching the crotch, since at the end they will be seemed close again? Wouldn't it be easier to simply continue in the round?

15.02.2024 - 00:34

Dear Melissa, the last cm of legs are worked in rows to make it easier to work them both together for pants afterwards. Happy knitting!

20.02.2024 - 08:49

Monika wrote:

Hier steht im Titel: DROPS Set mit Pulli, Jacke, Socken und Baskenmütze in „Safran! --- Richtig wäre: ..... Hose,.... (nicht Jacke) --------- Viele Grüße und danke für die tollen Anleitungen.

14.09.2022 - 10:43

Monica Amaral wrote:

" Continuar até 9-11 (13-15) cm de altura total. Dividir então a peça no interior da perna e continuar em idas e voltas, aumentar 1 malha de cada lado da peça para as costuras = 78-88 (98-108) malhas. Continuar até 10-12 (14-16) cm de altura total, depois, arrematar 4-5 (5-6) malhas de cada lado da peça = 70-78 (98-108) malhas. Colocar em espera." Penso haver aqui um erro pois no tamanho de 12 meses depois de arrematar continua com 98 pontos . Outra questao arrematar ou diminuicao ?

13.01.2022 - 00:01

Bom dia, Arrematam-se essas malhas de cada lado da peça para dar uma folga entre as pernas no canhão das calças. Essas malhas irão ser costuradas no fim: Montagem: Costurar o interior das pernas. Costurar os botões. Bom tricô!

13.01.2022 - 12:12

Karen wrote:

Hi. i am interesting in knitting this sweater. i am from the united states and was wondering if you offer the instructions in english. thank you. karen simon

11.05.2021 - 04:46

Dear Karen, sure, click on the scroll down menu below the photo to edit the language. Happy knitting!

11.05.2021 - 09:57

Pippa Shibata wrote:

I am at the top of the bib on the pants, where it says to work 6 rows in rib across all stitches after completing M1. The problem is that after working rib across the 26 stitches that had been knit in M1, it throws of the rib pattern for the last 5 stitches, as the last rib stitch from what was M1 is the same as the following stitch of the original 5 rib stitches on the other side of the row. How do I address this? Do I need to increase one somewhere prior to those final 5 rib stitches? Thanks

22.04.2021 - 07:12

Dear Mrs Shibata, you can increase 1 stitch on the first row on rib so that the rib pattern will match all the row. Happy knitting!

22.04.2021 - 08:00

Albouy wrote:

Bonjour, pour le béret vous dites continuer ainsi , pour les augmentations commencer à 1 maille puis alternativement 6,7,8 ainsi de suite, faut’il reprendre les augmentations comme pour le début ou continuer après avoir augmenté toutes les 9 mailles, toutes les 10,11 et ainsi de suite Je vous remercie

14.05.2018 - 16:22

Bonjour Mme Albouy, vous devez continuer les augmentations comme avant en les alternant soit après 6 m (= au rang 22), soit après 1 m (= au rang 24). Au rang 26, vous augmenterez après 7 m, au rang 28 après 1 m, au rang 30, après 8 m et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

15.05.2018 - 10:03

Schmidt wrote:

Frage zum Pulli: Ist es richtig, das bis zum Ärmelausschnitt mit Rundstricknadel endlos in Runden gestrickt wird ? Wenn ja, wird das Vorder-oder Rückenteil dann erst mal stillgelegt ?

21.11.2016 - 08:31

Liebe Frau Schmidt, ja stimmt, Sie stricken zuerst in der Runde bis zum Ärmelausschnitt, dann werden die 2 Teile separat gestrickt, die Maschen für Rückenteil legen Sie auf einem Faden/Hilfsnadel so daß Sie das Vorderteil stricken können. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.11.2016 - 10:42

Maierhofer Elisabeth wrote:

Bei dem Modell BabyDROPS 1-5 DROPS Set mit Pulli, Jacke, Socken und Baskenmütze in “Safran“ ist bei der Hose ein Auto eingestrickt. Angegeben ist, die mittleren 36 M. Im Diagramm M1 sind aber die mittleren 26 M eingezeichnet. Ist das ein Schreibfehler ?

13.01.2016 - 07:52

Ja, hier liegt ein Fehler vor, der umgehend behoben wird, es handelt sich um die mittleren 26 M, nicht 36 M. Danke für den Hinweis!

29.01.2016 - 10:36

Marie Danneels wrote:

Heel vriendelijk bedankt om dit nog te willen aanpassen. Groeten aan het excellente team !

05.08.2012 - 19:05

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DROPS Stripe sweater and knee length pants, socks and hat in Safran.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

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How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

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How to cast on

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How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

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How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (15)

Start Your Engines!

DROPS Stripe sweater and knee length pants, socks and hat in Safran.

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