DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Freshwater Pearl Top

Knitted top/ vest in DROPS Cotton Light. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern on front pieces and V-neck. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:
DROPS 249-24

#freshwaterpearltop

DROPS design: Pattern cl-131
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 86-92-100-108-120-112 cm = 33⅞"-36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-47¼"-44"
Full length: 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color 02, white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 521: 4 pieces for all sizes

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length: 80 cm = 32"
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length: 80 cm = 32"

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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You might also like...

DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (when working back and forth):
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for correct size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (band):
All increases are done from the right side.
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 in front and back loop of next stitch (= 1 stitch increased), knit 1.
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Knit 1, knit 1 in front and back loop next stitch (= 1 stitch increased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (back piece):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (= wrong side) purl the yarn over to make a hole. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-3 (sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-4 (evenly):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes

DECREASE TIP-1 (sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease the same way at the other marker thread.

BUTTONHOLES (top down):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease first buttonhole when approx. 1 cm =⅜" has been worked after last increase on band. Then decrease the next 3 buttonholes, approx. 7-7½-7½-8-8-8 cm = 2¾"-2⅞"-2⅞"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛" apart.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needles, top down. Work in garter stitch on shoulder straps, lace pattern on front piece and stockinette stich on back piece.
Begin by casting on stitches for shoulder strap on right front piece, and work downwards while at the same time increasing in each side of piece for armhole and V-neck. When armhole and V-neck are done, put right front piece aside while working the back piece. When back piece has been worked down to armholes, work left front piece the same way as right front piece. At the armholes slip front pieces and back piece on to same circular needle, and work body downwards back and forth on circular needle. Then fasten the shoulder straps to back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 with DROPS Cotton Light and work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. When shoulder strap measures 7-7-7-7-7-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛", insert 1 marker, this marks the shoulder. Then work in garter stitch until shoulder strap measures 11-11-11-11-11-13 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5⅛", finish with a row from wrong side.
Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work PATTERN - read explanation above, i.e. work A.1 and increase in each side for armhole and V-neck as shown in diagram (1st row = right side). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked, there are 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches on needle. Work next row as follows from right side: Work A.2A, work A.2B 2 times in total, work A.2C. Continue pattern like this. When 4 rows remain in A.2 (see bracket for correct size) and next row is worked from right side, increase 1 stitch for band at the end of row – read INCREASE TIP-1. Repeat increase on next row from right side (these 2 stitches make the neck edge go over to band).
When A.2 has been worked, there are 47-49-53-57-61-65 stitches on row and piece measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-24 cm = 7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9½" from marker on shoulder strap. Cut the yarn, put piece aside and work the back piece as explained under.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 52-54-60-64-70-74 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6, and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side):
3 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch for armhole – read INCREASE TIP-2, knit until 3 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch for armhole, work 3 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side):
3 stitches in garter stitch, purl (purl the yarn overs to make holes) until 3 stitches remain, work 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 16-17-18-20-21-23 increases have been done in total in each side = 84-88-96-104-112-120 stitches, and last row is worked from wrong side. Cut the yarn, put piece aside and work the left front piece as explained under.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5, and work in garter stitch. When shoulder strap measures 7-7-7-7-7-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛", insert 1 marker, this marks the shoulder. Then work in garter stitch until shoulder strap measures 11-11-11-11-11-13 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5⅛", finish with a row from wrong side.
Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work PATTERN - read explanation above, i.e. work A.1 and increase in each side for V-neck and armholes as shown in diagram (1st row = right side).
When A.1 has been worked, there are 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches on needle. Work next row as follows from right side: Work A.2A, work A.2B 2 times in total, work A.2C. Continue pattern like this. When 4 rows remain in A.2 and next row is worked from right side, increase 1 stitch for band at the beginning of row – read INCREASE TIP-1. Repeat increase on next row from right side (these 2 stitches make the neck edge go over to a band).
When A.2 has been worked, there are 47-49-53-57-61-65 stitches on row and piece measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-24 cm = 7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9½" from marker on shoulder strap. Do not cut the yarn. Now put parts together for body as explained below.

BODY:
Begin from right side and work part in the following order: Left front piece, back piece, right front piece:
ROW 1 (= right side):
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), continue pattern as shown in A.2B until 3 stitches remain on left front piece, work 3 stitches in garter stitch, cast on 6-8-8-10-14-18 new stitches on row (= in the side), work 3 stitches in garter stitch, knit 78-82-90-98-106-114, 3 stitches in garter stitch from back piece, cast on 6-8-8-10-14-18 new stitches on row (= in the side), work 3 stitches in garter stitch, continue pattern as shown in A.2B until 5 stitches remain on right front piece, work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band) = 190-202-218-238-262-286 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-14-18 stitches that were cast on in each side. Move the marker threads upwards when working - marker threads should be used for decrease and increase in the sides.
ROW 2 (= wrong side):
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, continue A.2 until 6-7-7-8-10-12 stitches remain before first marker thread, work 12-14-14-16-20-24 stitches in garter stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), purl 78-82-90-98-106-114, work 12-14-14-16-20-24 stitches in garter stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), continue A.2 until 5 stitches remain, work 5 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (= right side):
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, continue A.2 until 6-7-7-8-10-12 stitches remain before first marker thread, work 12-14-14-16-20-24 stitches in garter stitch, knit 78-82-90-98-106-114, 12-14-14-16-20-24 stitches in garter stitch, continue A.2 until 5 stitches remain, work 5 stitches in garter stitch - remember BUTTONHOLES – read explanation above.
ROW 4 (= wrong side):
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, continue A.2 until 6-7-7-8-10-12 stitches remain before first marker thread, work 12-14-14-16-20-24 stitches in garter stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), purl 78-82-90-98-106-114, 12-14-14-16-20-24 stitches in garter stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), continue A.2 until 5 stitches remain, work 5 stitches in garter stitch.
Then work back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front, A.2 on front pieces and stockinette stitch on back piece. Work A.2 as far out towards the marker thread as possible in each side - work the stitches that do not fit a whole repetition towards the marker thread in stockinette stitch.
When piece measures 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛" from where the parts were put together, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm = 5⅛"-5⅛"-5½"-5½"-6"-6" from where parts were put together = 182-194-210-230-254-278 stitches.
When piece measures 19-19-20-21-22-22 cm = 7½"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-8¾" from where the parts were put together, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased) = 186-198-214-234-258-282 stitches.
Work until piece measures 24-25-26-26-27-27 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10¼"-10⅝"-10⅝" from where parts were put together – adjust to work a few row in stockinette stitch after a row with lace pattern on front pieces.
On next row (= right side) begin rib while at the same time increasing 17-19-19-21-23-27 stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) – read INCREASE TIP-4 = 203-217-233-255-281-309 stitches, work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5, work band as before, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1 - remember increase) until 6 stitches remain, knit 1 stitch and band as before.
When rib measures 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm =¾"-¾"-¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛" bind off. Piece measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼" from marker on shoulder strap.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder straps to back piece - begin seam at the edge in each side and sew stitch against stitch.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.05.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction in Increasetip-1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over to make a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Ywe Hellman wrote:

"BAKSTYCKE: Lägg upp 52-54-60-64-70-74 maskor på rundsticka 3 och sticka 3 rätstickning. Byt till rundsticka 4, och sticka så här:" 3 vad rätstickning? Varv? Cm? Maskor?

21.10.2024 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Tack för info, det ska vara 6 varv rätstickning (detta är nu rättat i texten). Mvh DROPS Design

22.10.2024 - 10:12

country flag Jen wrote:

I have been following knitting patterns for nearly 60 years but after I finished A1 I gave up. I tried multi times but it has defeated me. I wanted to make it for my granddaughter. 😔

10.10.2024 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jen, when A.1 is done, you have 29-31 or 33 sts on needle (see size), then work these stitches as follows (seen from RS): A.2A (=7, 8 or 9 sts), repeat the 8 sts A.2B a total of 2 times (16 sts) and finish with A.2C (= 6, 7 or 8 sts) so that in the first size you get: 7+16+6= 29 sts, in the next 2 sizes: 8+16+7=31 sts and last 2 sizes: 9+16+8 =33 sts , now you continue increasing on each side as before and as shown in A.2A and A.2C and continue lace pattern inbetween with A.2B. Happy knitting!

11.10.2024 - 09:46

country flag Karina Shantilal wrote:

I don't understand how to continue with the A2 pattern once you've attached the sides. I tried just repeating A2B but it doesn't look right.

28.07.2024 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karina, you worked A.2b with A.2a and C before in the front pieces, and the other 2 charts are for increases that you won't be working here. So you simply continue with A.2b. When you continue, continue with the next row after the last row of A.2b worked in the front pieces (for example, if you ended on the 2nd row, continue with the 3rd one, don't restart the pattern). It's important to align A.2b over the front pieces, so that the position of the pattern matches the position before; you can work incomplete repeats of the pattern at the beginning and end of the row to adjust this. Happy knitting!

28.07.2024 - 23:38

country flag Krystian wrote:

Cześć, Czy ktoś odpowie na mój wcześniejszy komentarz?

23.06.2024 - 10:39

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Krystianie, wysłałeś do nas zapytanie oznaczając je jako 'komentarz', a nie 'pytanie', dlatego było niewidoczne i nie otrzymałeś odpowiedzi. Za chwilę odniosę się do Twojego pytania :)

24.06.2024 - 08:25

country flag Marten wrote:

Bin in der 2. Reihe vom Rumpfteil. Nun soll ich die beiden Seitenteile in A.2 stricken. Es gibt jedoch kein A.2. Wie soll ich ab der 2. Reihe weiterstricken?

22.06.2024 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Marten, bei der 1. Reihe haben Sie A.2B gestrickt, bei der 2. Reihe stricken Sie die 2.Reihe A.2B (Rückreihe = alle Maschen werden links gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

24.06.2024 - 08:07

country flag Krystian wrote:

Wszystko szło gładko do etapu “Tył i przód”. Rząd pierwszy zrobiłem, mam problemy z rzędem drugim: dalej przerabiać schemat A.2”. Dobrze rozumiem, że przerabiam cały A.2? Czyli najpierw A.2A + 2x A.2B + A.2C tak długo aż zostanie 8 oczek do markera? \\r\\n- W rzędzie drugim jestem na lewej stronie robótki czyli 2A zaczynam pierwszego rzędu na schemacie 2A czy od drugiego. Czy w kolejnych rzędach “tył i przód” robię kolejne rzędy schematów 2A?

21.06.2024 - 00:06

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Krystianie, od momentu połączenia robótki przerabiasz już tylko schemat A.2B i ścieg francuski (na obszycia przodów i na wys. podkrojów rękawów). Poprawimy to w tekście, gdyż opis może być mylący. Serdecznie pozdrawiamy!

24.06.2024 - 08:39

country flag Mandy wrote:

Wie wird beim Rückenteil die 2. Reihe gestrickt? Die erste und zweite Reihe wiederholt sich mit den Zunahmen bis gewünschte Länge erreicht ist. Ich dachte gelesen zu haben, das das Rückenteil glatt rechts gestrickt wird oder soll es auch kraus gestrickt werden?

20.06.2024 - 08:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mandy, beim Rückenteil stricken Sie glattrechts bis alle Zunahmen fertig sind, dh die 1. Reihe + die 2. Reihe so wiederholen (bei der 1. Reihe strickt man rechts = Hinreihe und bei der 2. Reihe strickt man links = Rückreihe, bei den 2 Reihen sind es 3 Maschen krausrechts beidseitig. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

20.06.2024 - 12:55

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Gdy zostaje do wykonania 4 rzędy schematu A.2 (patrz ramka odpowiednia dla rozmiaru) - nie widzę schematu A.2 :(

14.05.2024 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko, chodzi o schematy A.2a i A.2c. Pozdrawiamy!

14.05.2024 - 16:28

country flag Michelle wrote:

Bei Zunahmetipp 1: Die Zunahme soll passieren, wenn noch 3 Maschen auf der Nadel sind, aber die „3. Masche“ ist ja sozusagen der Umschlag. Also wird die Zunahme vor oder nach dem Umschlag gearbeitet?

07.05.2024 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michelle, dann stricken Sie den Umschlag wie im Diagram gezeigt, dh stricken Sie die 3. Masche vor Ende der Reihe zwei Mal, dann Umschlag, und 2 Maschen rechts / 2 M rechts, 1 Umschlag, 2 Mal die 3. Masche bei dem anderen Vorderteil. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

07.05.2024 - 13:32

country flag Michelle wrote:

Beim rechten Vorderteil steht: "Weiter glatt rechts stricken, bis der Schulterträger eine Länge von (...). Dem Bild und dem linken Vorderteil zu entnehmen, sollte doch weiter in Krausrippen gestrickt werden oder?

22.04.2024 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michelle, ja man soll weiter in krausrippen stricken, danke für den Hinweis, eine Korrektur erfolgt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

22.04.2024 - 13:09