Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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English (US/in)#brightstrawberrysweater
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-471
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit | |
= knit 1 without slipping it from needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the back loop of the same stitch. On next round, knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole (= 2 increased stitches) |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Bright Strawberry Sweater |
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Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with round yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 250-19 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary. The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for the body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. DOUBLE NECK: Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-3½"-3½" (the neck can be later folded double if desired). Insert 1 marker mid-back; the yoke is measured from here. YOKE: Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Continue with stockinette stitch, increasing 12-16-16-16-16-16 stitches evenly on the first round = 100-108-112-116-120-124 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the yoke measures 2-2-3-3-3-3 cm = ¾"-¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛" from the marker, work PATTERN – read description above, as follows: Work the first round in A.1, 25-27-28-29-30-31 times in width on the round (= 50-54-56-58-60-62 increased stitches) = 150-162-168-174-180-186 stitches. Work the second round in A.1 and decrease 3-0-0-4-0-2 stitches evenly spaced (decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 together) = 147-162-168-170-180-184 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the yoke measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-3½" from the marker. Work the first round in A.2, 21-27-28-34-36-46 times in width on the round (= 42-54-56-68-72-92 increased stitches) = 189-216-224-238-252-276 stitches. Work the second round in A.2 and decrease 0-0-0-3-0-0 stitches evenly spaced (decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 together) = 189-216-224-235-252-276 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the yoke measures 13-14-14-16-16-17 cm = 5⅛"-5½"-5½"-6¼"-6¼"-6¾" from the marker. Work the first round in A.3, 27-27-32-47-42-46 times in width on the round (= 54-54-64-94-84-92 increased stitches) = 243-270-288-329-336-368 stitches. Work the second round in A.3 and adjust the stitch count to 248-268-290-326-344-364 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the yoke measures 20-22-23-24-26-28 cm = 8"-8¾"-9"-9½"-10¼"-11" from the marker. DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES: Knit 38-41-44-49-54-58 (= approx. half back piece), place the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit 76-82-89-99-108-116 (= front piece), place the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit the last 38-41-45-50-54-58 stitches (= approx. half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here! BODY: = 164-176-194-214-236-256 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round until the body measures 21-21-22-21-21-21 cm = 8¼"-8¼"-8¾"-8¼"-8¼"-8¼" from the division. Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 18-22-22-24-26-28 stitches evenly on the first round = 182-198-216-238-262-284 stitches. When the rib measures 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4", bind off. The sweater measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-24"-24¾"-25½" from the shoulder. SLEEVES: Place the 48-52-56-64-64-66 sleeve-stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-64-72-74-78 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve, which is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start at the marker-thread and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛", decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2½-2-1-1-1 cm = 1"-1"-¾"-⅜"-⅜"-⅜" a total of 5-5-6-10-10-11 times = 44-48-52-52-54-56 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 32-31-30-30-28-26 cm = 12½"-12¼"-11¾"-11¾"-11"-10¼" from the division. There is approx. 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4" left to finished length. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly on the first round = 50-54-58-60-62-64 stitches. When the rib measures 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4", bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 41-40-40-40-38-36 cm = 16⅛"-15¾"-15¾"-15¾"-15"-14¼". ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck double to the inside and fasten with a couple of stitches. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (25)
Mirjam Hulsken wrote:
Ik snap het telpatroon niet..
26.10.2024 - 11:30DROPS Design answered:
Dag Mirjam,
Misschien heb je wat aan deze les.
27.10.2024 - 14:41Rita S wrote:
Wunderschöner Pulli, schnell gestrickt und toll zu tragen
03.10.2024 - 14:51Maria wrote:
Hi again. I meant the width is 65cm and not 75cm as is written in the pattern for size xxxl.
28.09.2024 - 19:05Maria wrote:
Hi! I have knit the main body in size xxxl and the bottom of the jumper measures 64cm instead of 75cm. What have I done wrong when I followed all the instructions. Regards Maria
27.09.2024 - 12:24DROPS Design answered:
Dear Maria, check all measurements as in chart, ie: 6 cm shoulder + 28 cm yoke + 21 cm body + 10 cm rib = 65 cm in total. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!
27.09.2024 - 14:01Engel wrote:
Ik wil dit model in brushed alpaca silk breien, maar als ik de optie garen vervanger gebruik om te kijken hoeveel bollen ik moet gebruiken staat brushed alpaca silk er niet bij. Waarom is dit, terwijl beide garens uit de gare categorie C komen.
29.07.2024 - 05:52Natalie wrote:
Mir ist nicht klar, an welcher Stelle ich die Rundnadel mit 40cm und wann ich die mit 80cm nehmen sollte.
19.05.2024 - 08:31DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Natalie, beginnen Sie mit der 40 cm Nadel und wenn Sie genügend Maschen zugenommen haben, so daß die 40 cm Nadel zu kurz für alle Maschen ist, stricken Sie mit der 80 cm Nadel weiter. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
21.05.2024 - 12:41Thea wrote:
Hei! Det er første gang jeg skal strikke genser, og jeg har da begynt på "Bright Strawberry Sweater" . Strikker i str. S. Jeg er nå ferdig med halskant og bærestykke og skal begynne på mønster. Men, jeg skjønner ikke helt hvordan jeg skal lese diagrammet og få startet på mønsteret?
15.04.2024 - 08:36DROPS Design answered:
Hei Thea, Mønster er gjentatt på omgangen, 25 ganger i størrelse S. Alle diagrammer er lest fra bunn oppover, og fra høyre til venstre (når man strikker rundt). Du begynner med første rad i A.1 som er slik: 3 rett, strikk 1 maske rett uten å slippe masken av pinnen, lag 1 kast om pinnen, 1 maske rett i samme maske, men i bakre maskebue (svart rute), 1 rett. Dette gjentas 25 ganger på omgangen. Deretter rad 2, som er å strikke rett og feller 3 masker jevnlig på denne omgangen. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!
16.04.2024 - 06:49Torunn Oppegård Flæsen wrote:
Hei, når jeg klikker på garnet for å bestille kommer det frem to forskjellige garnfarger / garnnavn. Det skal vel strikkes med en tråd? Ikke begge fargene? Ment som forslag? Går det an å velge en annen farge? F.eks hvit? Kry? Mvh Torunn
03.04.2024 - 09:21DROPS Design answered:
Hei Torunn, Genseren strikkes med 1 tråd Drops Air, som tilhører garngruppe C. Du kan bytte farge til den du ønsker, og du kan også bytte til andre garn innenfor denne gruppa og strikke samme mønsteret. Det er også mulig å velge et garn fra gruppe A og strikke med 2 tråder. Vi anbefaler at du strikker en prøvelapp før du begynner, uansett, slik at du får riktig strikkefasthet. God fornøyelse!
04.04.2024 - 06:21Helene Martin wrote:
Dans ce modèle je ne comprends vraiment pas les A1etc….genre pour le modèle que je fais c est xxxl je fais A1 31 fois ce qui veut dire 31 fois sur le premier rang ou 31 rang
28.03.2024 - 02:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Martin, en taille XXXL vous tricotez 31 fois les 4 mailles de A.1 (124 mailles) en même temps, vous augmentez comme indiqué au 1er rang de A.1 = vous avez 6 mailles dans chaque A.1 à la fin de ce tour et 186 mailles au total. Tricotez le 2ème tour de A.1 en diminuant 2 mailles à intervalles réguliers (cf cette leçon). Bon tricot!
02.04.2024 - 12:52Valerie VAN HOVE wrote:
Bonjour comment savoir si je dois faire ce pull en S ou M pour moi je ne vois pas à quelle dimension correspond chaque taille ? Merci de votre réponse Valérie
27.03.2024 - 21:50DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Van Hove, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma, vous trouverez ainsi la taille qui vous convient. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!
02.04.2024 - 12:46