DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Moon Lace Sweater

Crocheted sweater in DROPS Belle. The piece is worked bottom up with lace pattern and wide, sewn-in sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 249-31

#moonlacesweater

DROPS Design: Pattern vs-106
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-100-100-112-124-136 cm = 34⅝"-39⅜"-39⅜"-44"-48¾"-53½"
Full length: 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 01, white

CROCHET HOOK
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US E/4.

CROCHET GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single/double crochet is wide.

PATTERN:
All diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
Remember diagrams are read from left to right when working from the wrong side.
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

CROCHET INFORMATION (mid-under sleeves):
At the beginning of each round, work 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 double crochet), finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch.
When working the body and sleeves in the round, turn after each round, working alternately from the right and wrong side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, bottom up as far as the armholes, divided for the front and back pieces which are then finished separately, back and forth.
The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up as far as the sleeve cap, which is finished back and forth. The pieces are crocheted together. An edge is worked around the neckline to finish.

BODY:
Work 180-204-204-228-252-276 CHAIN STITCHES – read description above, with hook size 3.5 MM = US E/4 and DROPS Belle. Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
Work in the round as follows: 1 chain stitch (= 1 single crochet), 1 single crochet in every chain stitch, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch = 180-204-204-228-252-276 single crochets.
Now work PATTERN – read description above as follows: Work A.1, A.2 a total of 29-33-33-37-41-45 times, A.3 and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. There are 180-204-204-228-252-276 stitches (30-34-34-38-42-46 double-crochet groups with 3 chain stitches between each group – read CROCHET INFORMATION, turn.
Continue this pattern in the round, alternately from the right and wrong side. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When the piece measures 24-25-25-27-28-28 cm = 9½"-9¾"-9¾"-10⅝"-11"-11" – with the last round from the wrong side, divide for the front and back pieces and finish each piece separately, back and forth. Cut the strand.

BACK PIECE:
Skip the first 7-7-7-7-13-13 stitches on the round, work 1 slip stitch around the chain stitch in the next double-crochet group (i.e., in the 2nd-2nd-2nd-2nd-3rd-3rd double-crochet group on the round) and continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4 in the same double-crochet group, A.2 a total of 11-13-13-15-15-17 times, A.5, turn = 75-87-87-99-99-111 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 11-13-13-15-15-17 times, A.4, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 back and forth until the piece measures 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm = 15¼"-16⅛"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼" and the next row is from the right side. Now work the shoulder.

RIGHT BACK SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.3, A.6 in first double crochet from the next double-crochet group, turn = 19-25-25-31-31-37 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.3, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.4, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work A.4, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.3, A.6, turn.
Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 back and forth until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½". Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT BACK SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Skip the rest of the double-crochet group A.6 was worked in, skip 5 repeats of A.2 and 1 repeat of A.3, skip the first double crochet and chain stitch in the next double-crochet group (a total of 37 stitches skipped = back of neck), work 1 slip stitch in the last double in the double-crochet group, continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.6, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.5.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.6, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1and 2 back and forth until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½". Cut and fasten the strand.

FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side after the back piece, skip the first 15-15-15-15-27-27 stitches, work 1 slip stitch around the chain stitch in the next double-crochet group (i.e., in the 3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd-5th-5th double-crochet group after the back piece) and continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4 in the same double-crochet group, A.2 a total of 11-13-13-15-15-17 times, A.5, turn = 75-87-87-99-99-111 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 11-13-13-15-15-17 times, A.4, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 back and forth until the piece measures 35-37-37-39-39-41 cm = 13¾"-14½"-14½"-15¼"-15¼"-16⅛", with the next row from the right side. Now work the shoulders and neckline.

LEFT FRONT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4, A.2 a total of 1-2-2-3-3-4 times, A.7, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.7, A.2 a total of 1-2-2-3-3-4 times, A.4, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 one more time (= 4 rows worked), A.7 is now finished in height.
Continue as follows:
ROW 5 (= right side): Work A.4, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.3, A.6, turn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.3, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.4, turn.
Repeat ROWS 5 and 6 back and forth until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½". Cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Skip the rest of the double-crochet group A.6 was worked in on the left front shoulder (= 2 stitches), skip 5 repeats of A.2, 1 repeat of A.3 and skip the first double crochet and chain stitch in the next double-crochet group (37 skipped stitches = front neckline), work 1 slip stitch in the last double crochet in the double-crochet group and continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.8, A.2 a total of 1-2-2-3-3-4 times, A.5, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 1-2-2-3-3-4 times, A.8, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 one more time (= 4 rows worked), A.8 is now finished in height.
Continue as follows:
ROW 5 (= right side): Work A.6 (start on row 2 in diagram), A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.5, turn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.6, turn.
Repeat ROWS 5 and 6 back and forth until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½". Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVES:
Work 70-76-82-82-88-94 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 MM = US E/4 and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
Work in the round as follows: 1 chain stitch (= 1 single crochet), 1 single crochet in each chain stitch, finish with1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch = 70-76-82-82-88-94 single crochets.
Now work pattern as follows, read CROCHET INFORMATION: Work 3 chain stitches, A.2 11-12-12-13-14-15 times, A.3 and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, turn.
Continue like this in the round, alternately from the right and wrong side until the sleeve measures 51-49-50-48-46-44 cm = 20"-19¼"-19¾"-19"-18"-17¼", with the last round worked from the right side and, on the last round, working 1 double crochet in the stitch before the 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, so there are 2 double crochets (1 double crochet + 3 chain stitches) mid-under sleeve, turn.
Now continue back and forth:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.3, A.2 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-15 times, work 1 double crochet in the last stitch = 71-77-77-83-89-95 stitches, turn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work A.6, A.2 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-15 times, A.3, A.6, turn.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.3, A.2 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-15 times, A.6, turn.
Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 back and forth until the sleeve measures 55-53-54-52-53-51 cm = 21⅝"-21"-21¼"-20½"-21"-20". Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Crochet the shoulder seams together as follows: 1 single crochet in the outermost stitch (through both layers), 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the chain-space on the front piece, 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the chain-space on the back piece, 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the chain stitch in the double-crochet group on the front piece, 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the chain stitch in the double-crochet group on the back piece, continue like this, crocheting alternately on the front and back piece until the shoulder seam is finished. Work the other shoulder seam in the same way.

Crochet the sleeve cap to the armhole in the same way (a to A – see sketch). Then crochet together the bottom of the armhole (b to B).

NECK:
Start on one shoulder seam and work an edge around the neckline as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 slip stitch in the shoulder seam, * 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the first/next chain-space/row *, work from *-* to end of round, finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch at the beginning of the round.
ROUND 2: Work 3 chain stitches (replace first double crochet), 3 double crochets around each chain-space, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 slip stitch around chain stitch in double-crochet group, 3 chain stitches – when working in the round finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 1 double crochet in double crochet below/1 double crochet around chain stitch below
symbols = this row applies to first round at bottom of body and sleeves and has already been worked – shows how to work the stitches in the next round
symbols = this row has already been worked - shows how to work the stitches in the next row
symbols = sleeve assembled: a to A and b to B
symbols = start here
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Benthe wrote:

Hvordan skal man forstå opskriften ? Altså i mønster a1 a2 osv ?

29.10.2024 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Benthe, klik på lektioner øverst i opskriften, så finder du en lektion om hvordan man læser hæklediagrammer :)

30.10.2024 - 11:11

country flag Phemia wrote:

In de uitleg van het telpatroon wordt alleen over een halve vaste om de losse in de stokjes groep gesproken. Er wordt nergens aangegeven dat symbool 3 een stokje betekend. Het open sterretje geeft aan dat het stokje in het stokje hieronder moet, op het telpatroon wordt aangegeven dat de toer reeds gehaakt is. Of heb ik de verkeerde uitleg bij het telpatroon. Er klopt namelijk nog meer niet.

14.10.2024 - 15:53

country flag Anna wrote:

Hello : ) Can anyone tell me what the "dashed line"/ "den stiplede linje" in the beginning of A.4 means. What kind of stitch is that?

08.08.2024 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, A.4 starts with 4 chains (3 to replace first treble crochet + 1 for chain space), reasons why there are 4 small lines. Happy crocheting!

08.08.2024 - 13:02

country flag Vivian wrote:

Hei! Mistä löydän selitykset kaikille ohjeessa käytetyille symboleille? Kaikkia symboleja ei ole selitetty auki.

04.08.2024 - 19:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, kaikki merkkien selitykset löytyvät piirroksen yläpuolelta.

06.08.2024 - 17:03

country flag Marit wrote:

Hallo, Ik heb nog 1 vraag over het haken van de mouwen. De afmetingen staan normaal gesproken van maat S naar XXXL, maar bij de mouwen lopen de afmetingen bij het in de rondte haken (hoeveel cm het moet zijn) niet op volgorde van klein naar groot. Klopt dit en is de langere afmeting inderdaad voor maat S? Of moet ik de kleinste afmeting gebruiken die in het midden van de rij staat?

10.07.2024 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marit,

Dat klopt, de mouwen hebben zijn in de grotere maten soms minder lang, omdat de schouders breder zijn in de grotere maten. De afmetingen vanaf de halslijn tot de manchet hebben wel oplopende afmetingen overeenkomend met de maten.

11.07.2024 - 21:14

country flag Ilona wrote:

Wat wordt er bedoeld aan het einde van de mouw met: op de laatste toer haakt u 1 stokje in de steek voor de 3 lossen etc. Ik begrijp niet waar dit stokje moet komen Ook snap ik het vervolg niet, voor maat L: je haakt 13 keer A2 en in toer 1 opeens nog maar 12! Waar is die ene A2 gebleven? Alvast bedankt voor uw feedback

08.07.2024 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ilona,

In plaats van dat je de toer afsluit met een halve vaste in de 3e losse, haak je een stokje in de steek vlak voor die 3 lossen, zodat je als het ware 2 stokjes naast elkaar hebt (waarbij de drie lossen als 1 van die 2 stokjes geldt). Je sluit de toer dus niet. Vanaf daar haak je vervolgens heen en weer, beginnend met toer 1. Zoals ik het lees haak je in toer 1 van de mouw toch ook 13 keer A.2 voor maat L?

07.08.2024 - 10:44

country flag Marit wrote:

Wat wordt bedoelt met eindigen met een halve vaste in de 3e losse van het begin van de toer? Het ziet er vreemd uit zoals ik het interpreteer

01.07.2024 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marit,

Aan het begin van de toer heb je 3 lossen gehaakt (dit staat gelijk aan 1 stokje). Als helemaal in de rondte hebt gehaakt, dan sluit je de toer door 1 halve vaste te haken in de 3e losse van die 3 lossen.

01.07.2024 - 20:59

country flag Lebrun wrote:

Bonjour, Désolé je me suis aperçu que je n avait pas respectée les mesures après la séparations dos devant d ou un écart de 7 cm sur l 3mmenchure. Désolée.

29.04.2024 - 09:25

country flag Lebrun wrote:

Bonjour, Pour la taille XXL j ai tricote comme indiqué 28 cm avant la séparation devant dos. Mais après je me retrouve avec des emmanchures de 32 cm. Je ne peux coudre les manches. Ne faut il pas plutôt faire 38 cm avant la séparation ? De plus sur le dessin il est indiqué 50 mais cela aussi me semble faux ?

29.04.2024 - 07:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebrun, les 50 cm sont mesurés à partir du rang de montage du bas du pull soit 28 cm avant le début des emmanchures + 22 cm après les emmanchures = 50 cm de hauteur totale. Bon crochet!

29.04.2024 - 10:12

country flag Eygje Edel-Dekker wrote:

Kloppen de lengte van de mouwen, ik begrijp niet zo goed waarom voor maat s de langste mouwlengte is, kunt u mij dat uitleggen? Alvast bedankt!

17.03.2024 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Eygje,

Omdat de schouders voor maat S kleiner zijn, zijn de mouwen langer.

20.03.2024 - 12:28