DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Sun Dream Tee

Knitted short-sleeve sweater in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and relief-pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 240-24

#sundreamtee

DROPS Design: Pattern e-354
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 86-96-104-114-126-136 cm = 33⅞"-37¾"-41"-45"-49½"-53½"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 62, lemon

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next round to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).
RAGLAN:
Increase by making 1 yarn over after/before each of the marker-stitches (raglan-stitches) in each transition between the body and sleeves (8 stitches increased).
The yarn overs are worked as follows on the next round:
BEFORE RAGLAN-STITCH:
Slip the yarn over as if to knit, place it back onto the left needle the other way round and knit the front loop (leans to the right). No hole.
AFTER RAGLAN-STITCH:
Knit the back loop (leans to the left). No hole.
Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 120-124-128-134-138-142 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Safran. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) in the round for 3 cm = 1⅛".
Knit 1 round and increase 30-32-32-34-36-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 150-156-160-168-174-180 stitches. Insert 1 marker; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work stockinette stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the yoke measures 2-3-4-4-5-6 cm = ¾"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-2"-2⅜" from the marker, increase 30-32-36-40-46-48 stitches evenly spaced = 180-188-196-208-220-228 stitches.
When the yoke measures 3-4-5-5-6-7 cm = 1⅛"-1½"-2"-2"-2⅜"-2¾" from the marker, work A.1 around the yoke. AT THE SAME TIME increase on each round marked with an arrow in A.1:
Arrow-1: Increase 28-32-36-36-40-40 stitches evenly spaced = 208-220-232-244-260-268 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 28-32-32-36-36-40 stitches evenly spaced = 236-252-264-280-296-308 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 28-30-36-44-46-52 stitches evenly spaced = 264-282-300-324-342-360 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 24-30-30-36-36-42 stitches evenly spaced = 288-312-330-360-378-402 stitches.
Arrow-5: Increase 24-32-30-32-30-34 stitches evenly spaced = 312-344-360-392-408-436 stitches.
Finish A.1. The yoke measures approx. 15-16-17-17-18-19 cm = 6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7"-7½" from the marker.

Now increase for a small raglan. Insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows:
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch, count 64-70-74-80-80-82 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 90-100-104-114-122-134 stitches (front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 64-70-74-80-80-82 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, there are 90-100-104-114-122-134 stitches left after the last marker (back piece).
Work stockinette stitch and, on the first round, increase for RAGLAN – read description above (8 stitches increased).
Increase for raglan every 4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd-2nd round a total of 3-3-5-6-8-8 times = 336-368-400-440-472-500 stitches.
Continue working, without further increases, until the yoke measures 19-20-22-23-25-27 cm = 7½"-8"-8¾"-9"-9¾"-10⅝" from the marker.
Divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Knit the marker-stitch, place the next 70-76-84-92-96-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), knit 98-108-116-128-140-152 (front piece), place the next 70-76-84-92-96-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), knit the last 97-107-115-127-139-151 stitches (back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 208-228-248-272-300-328 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing the sides. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round.
When the body measures 6 cm = 2⅜" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker-threads – read DECREASE TIP (4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 6 cm = 2⅜" a total of 3 times in each side = 196-216-236-260-288-316 stitches.
When the body measures 22-23-23-24-24-24 cm = 8¾"-9"-9"-9½"-9½"-9½" from the division, knit 1 round and increase 44-48-52-56-64-72 stitches evenly spaced = 240-264-288-316-352-388 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm =1⅛". Bind off a little loosely. The sweater measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾" from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 70-76-84-92-96-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2-2-2-2-1-1 cm = ¾"-¾"-¾"-¾"-⅜"-⅜" from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd-2nd round a total of 4-6-9-10-11-11 times = 68-70-74-80-84-88 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 11-11-9-9-8-8 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-3½"-3½"-3⅛"-3⅛" from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 3 cm = 1⅛" left). Knit 1 round and increase 10-12-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly spaced = 78-82-86-92-98-102 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx.14-14-12-12-11-11 cm = 5½"-5½"-4¾"-4¾"-4⅜"-4⅜". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbols = Bobble: Knit 1 in the front and back loop of the same stitch until there are 5 stitches (4 increased stitches). Pass stitch-2 over the first stitch, pass stitch-3 over the first stitch, pass stitch-4 over the first stitch and pass stitch-5 over the first stitch (4 stitches decreased)
symbols = increase-round
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Paula wrote:

Ik ga bijna beginnen met de noppen, nu moet volgens het patroon 2 R dan de noppen en dan 1 R dus tussen de noppen zitten 3 steken, klopt dit ? Als ik naar de foto kijk zitten er minstens 5 steken tussen de noppen, welke is juist?

26.08.2024 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Paula,

Voor de nop brei je 3 steken en na de nop 2 steken, dus er zitten inderdaad 5 steken in totaal tussen. Dit is pas bij de tweede keer dat je de noppen breien. Dus de bovenste noppen op de foto zitten 3 steken tussen en de onderste noppen zitten 5 steken tussen.

28.08.2024 - 20:35

country flag Inge Ahrenkiel wrote:

Den maske med mærket, skal den springes over i hele raglandelen?

19.08.2024 - 07:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inge, raglanmasken med mærket i strikkes i glatstrik på hver pind, så du tager ud til raglan på hver side af disse glatstrikkede masker :)

21.08.2024 - 10:06

country flag Zoe Mason-Chard wrote:

Hi after knitting up across the 8 cast on stitches for the sleeve and knitting the stitches on the holderI have two holes each side , is this normal ?

25.07.2024 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Zoe, sometimes it happens. After finishing your sweater, please pull strands at the bottom of armhole. If it doesn''t help, use sewing needle to sew the holes. Happy knitting!

26.07.2024 - 11:01

country flag Karin NEUMANN wrote:

Beim Aufteilen Rumpf und Ärmel steht:…… und die letzten 97-107-115-127-139-151 Maschen glatt rechts stricken (Rückenteil). das ist falsch, um jeweils 1 Masche

03.07.2024 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Neumann, beachten Sie, daß die erste Masche der Runde schon gestrickt war so mit den letzten 97-107-115-127-139-151 Maschen der Runde sind es insgesamt 98-108-116-128-140-152 Maschen für das Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

04.07.2024 - 09:46

country flag Doris González wrote:

Cuando harán tutoriales paso a paso no entiendo los diagramas no explican cómo se leen si de arriba hacia abajo o al contrario me confunden mucho no soy experta

01.07.2024 - 19:24

country flag Sue wrote:

When dividing for the body and sleeves how do you caste on stitches (in side under sleeve) when working with circular needles? Thank you.

21.06.2024 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, you can use the technique shown in this video or in this lesson, see also this lesson from picture 11. Happy knitting!

21.06.2024 - 13:22

country flag Els Verspaille wrote:

Beste Ik brei maat xl. Aan het einde van de pas zijn er 392 steken. Dan mieten de markeerdraden ingevoegd worden. Echter, 80+114+80+114 = 388. Ik vermoed dat dit een foutje is? Wat is de beste oplossing? Alvast bedankt.

26.05.2024 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Els,

Je voegt de markeerdraden in de steken en niet tussen twee steken. Vermoedelijk veroorzaakt dit het verschil van 4 steken.

30.05.2024 - 18:52

country flag Vaidehi wrote:

I dont have a similar garment. Is there a way to choose size according to bust measurement

01.09.2023 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vaidehi, the measurements of this garment for each size can be found in the measurements schematic, under the pattern instructions. All measurements are in cm. You can see how to read this schematic here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=19. Happy knitting!

03.09.2023 - 19:21

country flag Vaidehi wrote:

How do I decide which size I should make?

01.09.2023 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Vaidehi, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare the measurements to the ones in the chart, that's the best way to find the matching size - read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

01.09.2023 - 15:24

country flag Saskia wrote:

Bij het gaatje breien wordt niet verteld hoe de omslag gebreid moet worden. Brei ik de omslag zoals hij zich voordoet, dan krijg ik een erg groot gat. Brei ik de omslag gedraaid, dan is het gaatje nauwelijks zichtbaar. Ik krijg de gaatjes dus niet zo als op de foto. Wat is nou eigenlijk de bedoeling?

06.08.2023 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Saskia,

Je breit deze inderdaad zoals deze zich voordoet, zodat er een gaatje ontstaat. Je breit hem niet gedraaid, anders wordt het niet een gaatje.

08.08.2023 - 20:47