DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Heart on Fire

Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted with lace pattern and V-neck. Size: XS - XXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 223-27

#heartonfiretop

DROPS design: Pattern e-316
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 76-84-92-102-114-124 cm = 29½"-33"-36¼"-40"-45"-48¾"
Full length: 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 59, red clay

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 60 = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: For straps.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 60 = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Tops Crop Tops Singlets bottom up lace v-neck

DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to decrease evenly use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 174 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 10) = 17.4. In this example work alternately approx. every 16th and 17th stitch and every 17th and 18th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to the armholes and V-neck):
Decrease inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
FROM RIGHT SIDE:
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER 1 EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH:
Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE 1 EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH:
Work until 2 stitches remain before edge stitch in garter stitch, knit these 2 together.
FROM WRONG SIDE:
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER 1 EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH:
Purl 2 together.
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE 1 EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH:
Work until 2 stitches remain before edge stitch in garter stitch, purl these 2 twisted together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 4 stitches increased on increase round in total).
On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch until they fit the pattern.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then finish front piece and back piece separately. Divide the front piece mid front for V-neck, and work the two parts back and forth on circular needle separately until finished measurements, then work strap on each front piece. Work back piece back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Sew straps from front piece on to back piece.

BODY:
Cast on 174-196-216-244-272-298 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with Safran. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 1½ to 2 cm = ½" to ¾". When rib is done, knit 1 round while decreasing 9-11-11-13-13-15 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1= 165-185-205-231-259-283 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 83-93-103-115-129-141 stitches. 82-92-102-116-130-142 stitches remain on round for back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides on body.
Work next round as follows: Work 7-2-7-9-6-2 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1 over the next 20-30-30-30-40-50 stitches (= 2-3-3-3-4-5 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.2 (= 29-29-29-37-37-37 stitches), work A.3 over the next 20-30-30-30-40-50 stitches (= 2-3-3-3-4-5 repetitions of 10 stitches), work 14-4-14-18-12-4 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work A.1 over the next 60-80-80-90-110-130 stitches (= 6-8-8-9-11-13 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.4 (= 8 stitches), and finish with 7-2-7-9-6-2 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm = 2"-2"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜", increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5-5-5-5½-5½-6 cm = 2"-2"-2"-2⅛"-2⅛"-2⅜" 4 times in total in each side = 181-201-221-247-275-299 stitches.
Work until piece measures 23-24-25-25-26-27 cm = 9"-9½"-9¾"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝" - adjust so that next round is an odd numbered round in A.1 (this is important to avoid the lace pattern begin worked from wrong side when piece is divided into front and back piece).
Now work in 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, over the middle 8-10-12-16-20-26 stitches in each side (i.e. work 4-5-6-8-10-13 stitches in garter stitch on each side of both marker threads – work the other stitches as before).
After the 2 ridges bind off for armholes and V-neck, i.e. work next round as follows: Bind off 3-4-5-7-9-12 stitches for armhole, work 42-46-50-54-59-62 stitches as before (= left front piece), bind off 1 stitch (= mid front), work 42-46-50-54-59-62 stitches as before (= right front piece), bind off 6-8-10-14-18-24 stitches for armhole, work as before over stitches on back piece until 3-4-5-7-9-12 stitches remain on round, and bind off the last 3-4-5-7-9-12 stitches for armhole. Cut the yarn and pull yarn through last stitch
Finish back piece and front pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 84-92-100-110-120-126 stitches. Begin from wrong side and continue pattern back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side begin decrease for armholes - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for armholes in each side on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 14-16-18-20-22-22 times in total in each side = 56-60-64-70-76-82 stitches. After last decrease work 1 row from wrong side as before.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off knitting from right side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 42-46-50-54-59-62 stitches. Begin from wrong side and continue pattern back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side begin decrease for armholes and V-neck and decrease as explained below – read DECREASE TIP-2:
ARMHOLE:
Decrease 1 stitch on every other row 13-14-15-17-18-20 times in total.
V-NECK:
Decrease 1 stitch on every row (i.e. from both right and wrong side) 24-27-30-32-36-37 times total.
After all decreases for armholes and V-neck, 5 stitches remain on row for strap. Work strap as explained below.

STRAP:
Switch to 2 double pointed needles 2.5 MM = US 1.5 (slip stitches on one needle and work with the other). * Move stitches to the beginning of row, tighten yarn and knit the 5 stitches from right side *, work from *-* until strap measures approx. 18-18-19-20-21-20 cm = 7"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8" (10-10-11-11-12-11 cm = 4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"-4⅜" of this length belongs to front piece, the rest belongs to back piece - sew strap to back piece). Cut the yarn and pull yarn through the 5 stitches, tighten together and fasten.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 42-46-50-54-59-62 stitches. Begin from wrong side and continue pattern back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side begin decreases for V-neck and armholes and decrease as explained below – read DECREASE TIP-2:
V-NECK:
Decrease 1 stitch on every row (i.e. from both right and wrong side) 24-27-30-32-36-37 times total.
ARMHOLE:
Decrease 1 stitch on every other row 13-14-15-17-18-20 times in total.
After all decreases for V-neck and armholes, 5 stitches remain on row for strap. Work strap the same way as on left front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew straps to back piece at the edge in each side.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 26.05.2021
Diagrams A.2 is changed to: XS-S-M and L-XL-XXL.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (106)

Linda Colsky wrote:

Thank you so much for your quick and helpful response! I had never knitted an icord before and the video you attached was great! Can’t wait to finish this up!!

17.10.2024 - 15:04

Hi, I have really been enjoying this pattern and I am almost done with it. I have just completed the left front piece and have five stitches remaining on my needle, per the instructions. I am about to start making the strap. The pattern says to knit these remaining five stitches repeatedly to form the strap, however it does not appear that the straps in the photo were created that way. Am understanding the pattern correctly?

17.10.2024 - 03:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Colsky, the straps are worked as an I-cord over the remaining 5 sts - see video. Happy knitting!

17.10.2024 - 09:54

Maillot wrote:

Peut on avoir la vidéo du point centrale

19.09.2024 - 12:54

Bonjour Mme Maillot, il n'y a pas de vidéo pour le diagramme A.2, mais cette leçon devrait vous aider à le déchiffrer: vous tricotez un point de riz au milieu et de chaque côté, avec un point ajouré entre. Bon tricot!

19.09.2024 - 15:09

Heleen wrote:

Bij het lijf staat: 'Meerder bij een hoogte van 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm, 1 steek aan elke kant van beide markeerdraden'. Is dit inclusief of exclusief de boord van 1,5/2 cm?

23.08.2024 - 06:57

Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry! Nie bardzo wiem jak zacząć przerabiać osobno tył i przód po tym, jak kończę pracę przy przerabianiu na okrągło. Czy jest jakiś film instruktażowy do tego przejścia? :)

20.07.2024 - 12:43

Witaj Joanno, niestety nie ma filmu na ten temat. Część, która nie jest przerabiana ląduje na nitce lub drucie pomocniczym. Oczka tyłu zostają na tych samych drutach i teraz przerabiasz dalszą część zgodnie z opisem, dołączasz nową nitkę, ponieważ poprzednia została wcześniej odcięta. Jeśli masz dodatkowe pytania to śmiało pisz. Pozdrawiamy!

22.07.2024 - 09:25

Zosia wrote:

Jak mam zrobić ten ściahacz francuski po obu bokach robótki? w jednym okrążeniu (nieparzystym) na prawo (czyli bez zmian), a w kolejnym na lewo, czy tylko jedno (nieparzyste) na lewo?

08.07.2024 - 15:23

Witaj Zosiu, w okrążeniu nieparzystym na prawo, a w parzystym na lewo = 1 ściągacz francuski. Pozdrawiamy!

09.07.2024 - 08:14

Anne-Sophie wrote:

Bonjour, c'est la première fois que je réalise un tricot grâce à un modèle. Où peut-on trouver le nombre de pelotes nécessaire pour cet ouvrage ? Merci :)

23.06.2024 - 17:19

Bonjour Anne-Sophie, la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille se trouve, au poids, dans l'en-tête, avec les ailles, l'échantillon et les aiguilles; autrement dit, il faut par ex en taille XS à L: 150 g DROPS Safran/50 g la pelote = 3 pelotes dans ces 4 premières tailles. Bon tricot!

24.06.2024 - 09:54

Wendy wrote:

Hallo, bij de werkbeschrijving staat na het meerderen dat je het werk zo moet aanpassen dat de volgende naald een oneven naald in A1 is. Bedoel je hiermee dat, als je 23 cm hebt, je moet stoppen met even aantal rijen gebreid? Weet niet goed hoe ik het moet verwoorden 🙈 Grtjs

15.06.2024 - 19:37

Dag Wendy,

De volgende naald moet een oneven naald zijn, dus een naald waarin je in telpatroon A.2 de minderingen met omslagen maakt. Je moet dus stoppen na een even naald, zodat de volgende naald een oneven naald is. Bij A.1 zou je in het telpatroon cijfertjes bij elke rij kunnen zetten van onder naar boven om te weten of je op een oneven danwel een even rij bent.

16.06.2024 - 19:16

Kimberly wrote:

Hello! I’m confused on where or when the increases fit into the pattern. If there are a total of 16 stitches increased, that is 4 stitches on each side of the beginning of round & side markers. How will 4 stitches fit into the patterns of A1, A3, A4? They are either 8 or 10 stitch repeats, so 4 stitches will not add a full repeat. Do I just add the 4 stitches in and repeat the pattern as many times as I can, with the last repeat being incomplete? I’m making size M. Thank you!

02.06.2024 - 04:54

Dear Kimberly, yes, just add the stitches, and repeat the pattern as many times as you can, but do pay attention that for each yarnover, there should be an accompanying decrease, othervise the number of stitches would change. Happy Knitting!

02.06.2024 - 09:57

When choosing a size, how many inches of negative or positive ease should the garment be worn with?

25.05.2024 - 15:45

Dear Kimberly, when selecting the size to knit, we suggest that you take a similar piece that fits the intended wearer and compare the measurements to the ones given on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the instructions. Happy Knitting!

25.05.2024 - 20:14