DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.15£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Blossoming Beauty

Crocheted square jacket in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 200-16
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-109
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S/M - L – XL/XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-750-900-950 g colour 28, powder

CROCHET TENSION:
20 treble crochets in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.15£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.11 (A.5 applies to sizes XL/XXL and XXXL).

CROCHET INFORMATION:
On each row of treble crochets, the first treble crochet is replaced by 3 chain stitches. The 3 chain stitches count as 1 treble crochet when counting stitches.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in 1 treble crochet.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Decrease 1 treble crochet as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook through next stitch, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull strand through the first 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull strand through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 48 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 3) = 16. In this example work each 15th and 16th treble crochet together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SQUARE JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. First you work the back piece, then right side, armhole and front piece. Then the left side, armhole and front piece. Sleeves are worked in the round, top down.

BACK PIECE:
Work 163-163-183-183 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Merino. Turn and work pattern back and forth as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S/M and L:
Work A.1 over the first 6 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFORMATION, A.2a over the next 24 chain stitches, A.3a over the next 108 chain stitches (= 3 repeats), A.4a over de the next 19 chain stitches, A.1 over the remaining 6 chain stitches on row = 138-138 stitches.

Sizes XL/XXL and XXXL:
Work A.1 over the first 6 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFORMATION, A.2a over the next 24 chain stitches, A.3a over the next 108 chain stitches (= 3 repeats), A.4a over the next 19 chain stitches, A.5 over the next 20 chain stitches, A.1 over the remaining 6 chain stitches on row = 155-155 stitches.

All sizes:
NOTE: A.1 is worked on each side of the piece to finished length. The first row worked is from the right side; insert a marker to show the right side of the piece.
Continue with A.2b, A.3b, A.4b and A.5b (applies to sizes XL/XXL and XXXL) in height a total of 3 times. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Now work a row with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 2 treble crochets around each chain-space (A.1 worked as before on each side), at the same time increase 1-1-0-0 treble crochets on row – read INCREASE TIP = 139-139-155-155 stitches. The piece measures approx. 32 cm in all sizes. Cut the strand. Insert a marker thread in last row worked. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

RIGHT SIDE, ARMHOLE AND FRONT PIECE:
Now continue working from the wrong side, i.e. 2 rows after one another from the wrong side: Work A.1 over the first 6 stitches, A.6 as far as the next A.1, but the last time when working A.6 skip the last double crochet/chain stitch in diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) = 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6, A.1. Work the next row in the diagram back from the right side. Size S/M is finished. In sizes L, XL/XXL and XXXL repeat these 2 rows until you have worked 4-4-6 rows of the pattern.

All sizes:
Now work the armhole as follows (from the wrong side): A.1, work 8 repeats of A.6, work 36-40-40-44 chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6, work 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch and continue with A.6 as far as the next A.1, but the last time you work A.6 skip the last double crochet/chain stitch in diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical inside A.1 on each side), A.1.
Continue back and forth with A.6 and A.1 on each side of the piece; over the 36-40-40-44 loose chain stitches work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 for armhole = a total of 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6 inside A.1 on each side. Repeat the last 2 rows in A.6 until the piece measures approx. 6-8-8-10 cm from the marker thread – adjust so that the last row worked is the last row in the diagram.
Now work 1 row with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 1 treble crochet around each chain stitch (A.1 is worked on each side of the piece as before), at the same time increase 1-1-0-0 treble crochet = 140-140-155-155 stitches. Then work pattern as follows: A.1, A.7 as far as the next A.1, but the last time A.7 is worked skip the last treble crochet in the diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) and finish with A.1. When A.7 has been completed in height, repeat the last 2 rows in A.7 until the piece measures 26-28-32-34 cm from the marker thread; adjust so that the last row worked is from the wrong side. Now work 1 row with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 1 treble crochet around each chain stitch (A.1 is worked on each side as before). Now work pattern as follows: A.1, A.8 as far as the next repeat of A.1, but the last time A.8 is worked skip the last treble crochet in the diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) and finish with A.1. On the last row of A.8 decrease 2-2-0-0 treble crochets evenly spaced = 138-138-155-155 treble crochets. Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S/M and L:
Work A.1, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 20 treble crochets (= A.2a), * work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 12 treble crochets, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 16 treble crochets (= A.3a) *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 16 treble crochets (= A.4a) and finish with A.1. Now work A.2b-A.4b as before inside A.1 on each side. When A.2b-A.4b have been completed in height, work the last row with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 1 treble crochet around each chain stitch inside A.1 on each side of the piece. Cut and fasten strand. The piece measures approx. 42-44 cm from the marker thread (40-40 cm from the armhole).

Sizes XL/XXL and XXXL:
Work A.1, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 20 treble crochets (= A.2a), * work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 12 treble crochets, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 16 treble crochets (= A.3a) *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 16 treble crochets (= A.4a), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 17 treble crochets (= A.5) and finish with A.1. Now work A.2b-A.5b as before inside A.1 on each side. When A.2b-A.5b have been completed in height, work the last row with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 1 treble crochet around each chain stitch inside A.1 on each side of the piece. Cut and fasten strand. The piece measures approx. 48-50 cm from the marker thread (44-44 cm from the armhole).

LEFT SIDE, ARMHOLE AND FRONT PIECE:
Work outwards to the other side from the row of chain stitches worked at the beginning of the piece, starting from the right side as follows:
Work A.1 over the first 6 chain stitches, work 2-2-1-1 treble crochets in next chain stitch, continue with 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch until there are 6 stitches left, but skip the same chain stitch skipped on first row on first piece worked and work A.1 over the next 6 chain stitch = 139-139-155-155 treble crochets. Insert a marker thread in this row. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
Now work as follows from the wrong side:
Work A.1 over the first 6 stitches, A.6 as far as the next A.1, but the last time A.6 is worked skip the last double crochet in diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side), A.1. Work the next row in the diagram back from the right side. Now size S/M is finished. In sizes L, XL/XXL and XXXL repeat the pattern in height until you have worked a total of 4-4-6 rows of pattern.

All sizes:
Now work the armhole as follows (from the wrong side): A.1, work 15-14-18-17 repeats of A.6, 36-40-40-44 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6, work 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch, then work 8 repeats of A.6, but the last time A.6 is worked skip the last double crochet in the diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) and finish with A.1 = 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6 inside A.1 on each side. Continue back and forth with A.6 and A.1 on each side of the piece; over the loose 36-40-40-44 chain stitches worked for the armhole, work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 = a total of 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6 inside A.1 on each side. Continue with pattern in the same way as the right front piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked in the round from the armhole down.
Start mid under the armhole with A.9 (= start of round), work A.6 (= row of chain-spaces + 1 double crochet) to the top of the armhole (= 9-10-10-11 repeats), work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 around the row of chain stitches worked for the armhole = a total of 18-20-20-22 repeats of A.6 for the sleeve. Continue like this in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease on each side as follows: Work A.9, A.10, work A.6 until there are 2 repeats of A.6 left on the round, work A.11. When A.10 and A.11 have been completed in height you have decreased 2 repeats of A.6 on the round and you have room for 16-18-18-20 repeats of A.6 on the round. Continue in the round with pattern and repeat the decrease when the sleeve measures 12 cm and 20 cm = 12-14-14-16 repeats. Continue working until the sleeve measures 52 cm – adjust so you finish after the last round in A.6. Now work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 1 treble crochet around each chain stitch at the same time as you decrease 3-5-5-4 treble crochets evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 45-51-51-60 treble crochets left on round. Work A.8 in the round – each round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in beginning of round. The sleeve measures approx. 56 cm. Cut and fasten strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = this row already worked - start on next row in diagram. NOTE: number of stitches given applies from first row worked in diagram!
symbols = this row/round already worked - start on next row/round in diagram
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 2 chain stitches - on next row skip the first of these 2 chain stitches and work 1 treble crochet in the last of these 2 chain stitches
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 7 chain stitches
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain-space
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = 1 double treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (85)

country flag Lena wrote:

Sizing help please. Is the chest measured all the way around the fullest part of the bust? If so, XXXL size (chest 89cm) seems to correlate to a UK size 10. Is this correct? If so, it's very small. Most professional models are size 8-10 and the rest of us haven't got a hope! Thanks.

10.10.2023 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lena, in this chart, you can check the total width on back piece (not around the bust), ie from armhole to armhole, back piece will measure 37-41-41-45 cm. Compare to a similar garment you have and like the shape to make sure you choose the correct size. Happy crocheting!

10.10.2023 - 16:22

country flag Emma wrote:

Hello again, I just finished the back piece and im confused as to what im supposed to do next. The pattern says to make 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6, A.1. but that leaves it with no armholes, am I supposed to make an armhole first and THEN 32 repeats? The order of the pattern seems wrong.

18.08.2023 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, you first work the 32 repeats of A.6 (as under RIGHT SIDE, ARMHOLE AND FRONT PIECE:, then work next row from RS, repeat these 2 rows in size L (4 rows), then work the armhole (starting from WS) as explained under All sizes: below. Happy crocheting!

21.08.2023 - 09:44

country flag Emma wrote:

I don't understand this part of the pattern, what does "2 rows after one another" mean? RIGHT SIDE, ARMHOLE AND FRONT PIECE: Now continue working from the wrong side, i.e. 2 rows after one another

17.08.2023 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, before you cut the yarn at the end of previous row, the last row you worked was a row from wrong side. When you work the right side of piece, you will begin with a row from wrong side too, this means there will be 2 rows from wrong side worked next to each other. Happy crocheting!

17.08.2023 - 10:41

country flag Kayleigh Workman wrote:

Hello I just started this pattern and have completed the back I have now moved to the next section of the pattern right side arm hole and front section . I have stalled here because I don't understand how you have written it please can you tell me where I'm supposed to join for this section please can you help thank you

31.05.2023 - 01:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Workman, place the first part of piece/back piece from wrong side and crochet now A.1 over the first 6 stitches, repeat then A.6 a total of 31-31-36-36 times in width, now work A.6 one more time but over the first 3 stitches only (just make the 5 chain stitches but not the double crochet) and end with A.1 at the end of the row (as before). Continue like this, to create the armhole, you will then crochet chain stitches and skip some repeats of A.6 and then continue as before. Then work A.7 then A.8 between both A.1 on each side. Happy crocheting!

31.05.2023 - 08:26

country flag Kaija Thomassen wrote:

Viser til mitt spørsmål 18/5 og til svar fra dere 23/5. Er det da slik at jeg skal bare overse de ekstra maskene mellom 138 og 163 og ikke ha de med videre? Ellers så har æ jo fulgt oppskriften til punkt og prikke.

27.05.2023 - 13:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kaija, ja det var ekstra masker til kanten. Nu skal du følge diagrammet over de 138 masker ifølge din størrelse :)

29.05.2023 - 11:40

country flag Kaija Thomassen wrote:

Skal hekle modell 200-16. det legges opp 163 masker i str S/M . Men når jeg hekler første rad etter oppskriften så utgjør det bare 138 masker. Kan ikke forstå det, for det skal jo legges opp 163 luftmasker ved start. Hva med de resterende maskene??

18.05.2023 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kaija, husk at du hopper over en af luftmaskerne ifølge diagrammet. Vi starter altid med flere luftmasker for at kanten ikke skal blive for stram :)

23.05.2023 - 09:58

country flag Fiorella wrote:

Scusate, tornando indietro con le pagine, ho trovato la risposta alla mia domanda... 😊 Buona giornata Fiorela

24.03.2023 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Fiorella, la quantità di filato è indicata di fianco alle foto ed è possibile scegliere la lingua del modello nel menù a tendina sotto ogni foto. Buon lavoro!

26.03.2023 - 22:17

country flag Fiorella wrote:

Buongiorno, premesso che non so l'inglese, non ho trovato l'indicazione di quanto filato acquistare per le varie taglie. Grazie Fiorella

24.03.2023 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Fiorella, la quantità di filato è indicata di fianco alle foto ed è possibile scegliere la lingua del modello nel menù a tendina sotto ogni foto. Buon lavoro!

26.03.2023 - 22:17

country flag Rachel Ward wrote:

Hello! I have finally made it to the sleeve section of your pattern! I have not started this section because I am having a hard time figuring out where exactly I need to start (does 'mid' mean the bottom of the arm hole where the two rows split off?) and what the first row looks like. Can you please explain it to me in a different way than what is written/ just reword it? You can use terms like A.9, I just need an explanation that paints a better picture in my mind

19.03.2023 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rachel, the mid under sleeve is, as you said, the bottom of the armhole. The first row is worked as follows: work A.9 (= 1 chain stitch), work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 (= 5 chain stitches, 1 double/single crochet). You should reach the top of the shoulder at this point. Now work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 as before on the other side of the armhole. After this, you will work in the round over these stitches. Happy crocheting!

19.03.2023 - 19:23

country flag Rabecca wrote:

I have followed the instructions for XXXL size. I am left with half motif one end plus 3 whole motifs in the middle which look right but the other end I have two half motifs but they are the wrong way round so don’t make up a motif. What have I done wrong? Pattern says do A.4 then A.5 should the pattern read A.5 then A.4? Help!

25.02.2023 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebecca, did you notice that you should skip some chain stitches when working the 1st row in the diagrams? See 4th symbol - this means A.2 is for example 20 sts on first row (20 treble crochets, UK-English) but is wworked over 24 chain stitches - same for all other diagrams, you will have less treble crochets on first row than you worked chain stitches to avoid foundation chain being too tight. Happy crochetin!

27.02.2023 - 10:13