DROPS Lace
DROPS Lace
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 186-26
DROPS Design: Pattern no la-036
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Height measured along the mid-stitch is approx. 64 cm and width measured along the top is approx. 180 cm.
Materials:
DROPS LACE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g colour 6790, royal blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

KNITTING TENSION:
The shawl will be dampened and stretched after the final measurements, so the knitting tension is not so important. But to give yourself an idea about whether you are working too loosely or too tightly, you can work a test square in stocking stitch with needle size 3 mm to see if the knitting tension is right.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lace
DROPS Lace
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

CASTING OFF TIP
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can make yarn overs at the same time as you cast off. Make yarn overs above all the yarn overs from the previous row with yarn overs; the yarn overs are then cast off as normal stitches. Make sure you do not tighten the strand. If the cast-off edge is still tight, you can use a larger needle size to cast off.

SHAPING:
If you are using another yarn from yarn group A, the shawl will not need to be stretched when finished; but dampen it and lay it flat in the right shape. Allow it to dry. Repeat this process each time the shawl is washed.
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SHAWL:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle to give enough room for all the stitches. It is worked top down. Cast on 5 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Lace. Now work the next 2 rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see description above, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, purl until there are 2 stitches left and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch = 9 stitches on the needle.

Then work according to diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows: Work diagram A.1 over the first 4 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch - this is worked in stocking stitch throughout the whole piece), work A.2 over the last 4 stitches. Continue working like this according to A.1 and A.2 until the diagrams have been worked 1 time in height = 81 stitches on the needle.

READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Now you will continue with pattern and increases in the same way as in A1 and A.2.
You are increasing 2 stitches at the beginning and end of the row and increasing on each side of the mid-stitch. The row of holes is worked in the same way; it is important to make sure the rows of holes are above each other (as before) and that there are at least 5 stitches stocking stitch on each side of the mid-stitch. Work like this until you have increased a total of 54 times and there are 333 stitches on the needle (= 166 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch).

Now continue as follows on the next row from the right side:
Work diagram A.3 over 4 stitches, repeat diagram A.4 over the next 156 stitches (= 12 repeats in width), work A.5 over 6 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), A.6 over 6 stitches, repeat diagram A.4 over the next 156 stitches (= 12 repeats in width), work A.7 over the last 4 stitches. Work the diagrams like this 1 time in height = 555 stitches on the needle.

Work 2 ridges. READ CASTING OFF TIP and cast off with knit on the next row. Cut and fasten the strand.

STRETCHING: 
Place the shawl in luke-warm water until it is thoroughly wet. Press the water carefully out of the shawl - do not twist the garment, then roll the shawl in a towel and press to remove even more water - the shawl should just be damp. If you have used another yarn from yarn group A, read SHAPING above. Lay the shawl on a floor rug or mattress - pull it gently into shape and use pins to fasten it down. Allow the shawl to dry. Repeat the process each time the shawl is washed.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs; on the next row work the first yarn over and drop the second
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = no stitch (skip this square)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Maibrit Christiansen wrote:

Ja, jeg har lige endnu engang kontrolleret maskeantallet. Og ja alle omslagene er der.

10.05.2021 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Majbrit. Usikker på hvor det blir feil hos deg, men i diagram A.7 i rad 18 skal du ha 22 masker, i rad 19 strikker du 2 steder 2 masker sammen og øker med 2 masker = fremdeles 22 masker. Når du da strikker rad 20 skal du da også ha 22 masker. Du skriver at det skal være 21 masker, men i rad 20 skal det være 22. Kan det være noe tellefeil der? mvh DROPS design

10.05.2021 - 14:23

country flag Maibrit Christiansen wrote:

Efter jeg har fået god hjælp tidligere er jeg nu desværre gået i stå igen så tæt på målet. I diagram 7 kan jeg ikke få maskeantallet til at passe på pind nr. 20 (vrangpind). Iflg. diagrammet skal der være 21 masker efter den førstemaske (ret) men jeg har kun 18 masker. Har talt alle pindene efter og så vidt jeg kan se stemmer det hele vejes. Kan I regne ud hvor det er gået galt for mig??

10.05.2021 - 09:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maibrit Husket du kastene på begge steder på pinne 19 i A.7? Både dobbeltkastet og enkelt kastet? Diagram A.7 og A.4 går litt over hverandre. Har du riktig maskeantall på de andre diagrammene, kan være fort gjort å overse et kast? mvh DROPS design

10.05.2021 - 13:22

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Non era più semplice spiegare come avete scritto voi ora? Spiegazioni sempre perfette ma machiavelliche! 2 maglie...54 aumenti..ecc...Vi seguo molto, ma spesso mi trovo in difficoltà, come tante altre, leggendo i vari commenti di quasi tutti i modelli! Semplificate! Scusate lo sfogo, ma il mio vuole essere solo un consiglio, una critica spero costruttiva! Comunque sempre grazie e buon lavoro! :)

25.04.2021 - 00:13

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Buonasera, sono ancora io, scusate!! Sono ferma alla fine delle 81 maglie perché nn capisco come è dove aumentare per arrivare ad avere 333 maglie.se capisco bene sono 6 in tutto 4 ai lati e 2 al centro per 54, quindi per 9 volte. Ma, a parte che non mi torna il conto, ogni quanti ferri devo aumentare? Cosa sbaglio? Spero di essere stata chiara! Potete spiegare un po\' più semplicemente per favore? Ringrazio come al solito per la vostra disponibilità!

24.04.2021 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lelletta, la sezione spiega semplicemente come si svolgerà il lavoro: deve continuare a lavorare A.1 e A.2 come indicato fino ad avere 166 maglie a ogni lato della maglia centrale. Buon lavoro!

24.04.2021 - 22:19

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Buonasera. sto lavorando questo scialle che dalla foto sembra completamente diverso... A me risulta molto compatto, mentre nella foto il bordo è molto più traforato e si intravedono dei giri a rovescio che non sono menzionati nelle spiegazioni! Forse avete messo la foto di un altro scialle? O manca qualche altra spiegazione/diagramma? Spero in una rapida risposta, ho il lavoro in sospeso...Grazie mille!

22.04.2021 - 22:06

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lelletta, la lavorazione si aprirà dopo il bloccaggio. Buon lavoro!

22.04.2021 - 22:58

country flag Elsemarie wrote:

Jag får inte ihop varv 5 i diagram A3. JAg får det inte att stämma så de dubbla omslagen kommer över varandra som det ser ut i diagrammet. Ska det vara över varandra?

04.03.2021 - 11:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elsemarie, A3 strikkes i den ene side og de dobbelte omslag skal strikkes inden for retmasken på hver 2.pind. Da det er udtagninger kommer de ikke nøjagtig over hinanden men de vil altid være næst yderst. God fornøjelse!

05.03.2021 - 08:58

country flag Maibrit Christiansen wrote:

Tak for det hurtige svar. Nu har jeg lige prøvet igen men kan stadig ikke få det til at passe, Efter 1. pind efter diagram A! + 1 midtermaske + A2 har jeg ganske vist 15 masker men når jeg på 2. pind skal lade det ene omslag falde uden at strikke det må der nødvendigvis blive 2 masker mindre efter denne pind. Eller har jeg helt misforstået opskriften??

03.02.2021 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maibrit, Jo når du laver 2 omslag og slipper det ene ned så har du 1 ny maske på næste p, det gør du 2 gange + 1 almindeligt omslag = 3 nye masker i både A.1 og A.2. Du kan se på næste pind hvor mange masker du skal have :)

04.02.2021 - 14:44

country flag Maibrit Christiansen wrote:

Jeg er startet på dette meget smukke sjal 5 gange og allerede når jeg kommer til 4 eller 5 pind har jeg 2 masker for lidt på pinden i forhold til diagrammet (A1). Hvor tror I at det går galt for mig? Håber at Ikan hjælpe mig så jeg kan strikke dette smukke sjal til min mor mår hun til sommer bliver 90 år.

01.02.2021 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maibrit. Skriv ut oppskriften, deretter kan du telle kastene på hver rad og så skrive ned hvor mange masker inkl kast du skal ha etter hver rad. Du starter med 5 masker. På 1. og 2. rad skal du ha 9 masker = A.1 (4 masker og 3 kast) + midtmasken + A.2 (4 masker og 3 kast)= 7+1+7=15 masker. Det økes ikke på 2. rad. 3. rad= A.1 (7 masker + 3 kast) +1 midtmaske + A.2 (7 masker +3 kast) = 10+1+10= 21 masker. Det økes ikke på 4. rad. 5. rad = A.1 (10 masker + 4 kast - 2 rett sammen= 12 masker) + 1 midtmaske + A.2 (10 masker + 4 kast - 2 rett sammen= 12 masker) = 12+1+12 = 25 masker osv. mvh DROPS design

01.02.2021 - 15:54

country flag Gabriele wrote:

Wenn ich mir das foto so ansehe dann fängt dieses schultertuch unten mit dem wellenmuster an. ich habe jetzt a1 und a2 gestrickt, dass ist nur lochmuster

15.11.2020 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gabriele, das Tuch wird von oben nach unten gestrickt, dh zuerst stricken Sie das Lochmuster und nehmen für das gewünschte Form in jede 2. Reihe (= siehe Diagram) zu und zum Schluss stricken Sie das Wellenmuster (immer noch mit Zunahmen wie zuvor). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.11.2020 - 10:22

country flag VH wrote:

Olisi hyvä saada piirrokset ja merkkien selitykset myös suomenkieliseen ohjeeseen. Kiitos!

17.05.2020 - 14:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, nyt piirrokset aukeavat!

19.05.2020 - 14:23