DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 65-9
Sizes: one-size
Finished measurement: 140 cm [55-1/8"]

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
800 g col. no. 08, natural white.

DROPS 4 mm [US F] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: One square measures approx. 12 x 12 cm [4.75" x 4.75"]

Pattern: See diagrams.

Crocheted square:
Chain 8 and join into a ring with a slip st.
Round 1: * 1 double crochet (dc) (the first dc is replaced by ch 3), ch 2 *, repeat from * - * 8 times, join with 1 slip st in the first dc.
Round 2: * 4 dc (the first dc is replaced by 3 slip sts) around the ch st bow, ch 2 *, repeat from * - * 8 times, join with 1 slip st in the first dc.
Round 3: * 4 trebles in the 4 dc from the previous row (the first treble is replaced by ch 4) -- but keep the last loop of each on the hook until all trebles have been crocheted, then pull the yarn through all sts on the crochet hook (4 sts become 1), ch 6, 1 dc around the 2 ch sts from the previous row, ch 6, * repeat from * - * 8 times, join with 1 slip st in the first group of trebles.
Round 4: Slip st to the center of the ch st bow, ch 1, 1 single crochet (sc) around the ch st bow, * ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 5, 1 dc around the next ch st bow, ch 10, 1 dc around the next ch st bow (the corner), ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow *, repeat from * - * a total of 3 times, then ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 5, 1 dc around the next ch st bow, ch 10, 1 dc around the next ch st bow (the corner), ch 5, join with 1 slip st in the first sc.
Round 5: Slip st to the center of the ch st bow, ch 1, 1 single crochet (sc) around the ch st bow, * ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 8, 1 sc around the same ch st bow approx. 1 cm [3/8"] away (= corner), ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow *, repeat from * - * a total of 3 times, then ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 8, 1 sc around the same ch st bow 1 cm [3/8"] away (= corner), ch 5, 1 sc around the next ch st bow, ch 5, join with 1 slip st in the first sc.

Body: Either a cardigan or a pullover may be crocheted out of these squares; the difference is in how they are put together. The sleeves are the same length on both models.

Cardigan - Body: Make 50 squares.
Now join the squares in vertical columns as in Fig. 1
The columns contain the following number of squares:
1st column (center front): = 5 squares, 2nd column: = 5 squares 3rd column (side): = 4 squares, 4th column: = 5 squares, 5th column: = 6 squares (the center back is between the 5th and 6th column), 6th column: = 6 squares, 7th column: = 5 squares, 8th column (side): = 4 squares, 9th column: = 5 squares, 10th column (center front): = 5 squares.
Now join the columns together as in Fig. 2. Join the shoulders in the same way as in Fig. 2 and then join the 2 squares from the center back and the 2 first columns of squares at the center front for the collar.

Sweater - Body: Make 52 squares.
Now join the squares in vertical columns as in Fig. 1.
The columns contain the following number of squares:
1st column (center front): = 6 squares, 2nd column: = 6 squares, 3rd column: = 5 squares, 4th column (side): = 4 squares, 5th column: = 5 squares, 6th column: = 6 squares, 7th column: = 6 squares (the center back is between the 6th and 7th columns), 8th column (side): = 5 squares, 9th column: = 4 squares, 10th column (center front): = 5 squares.
Now join the columns together as in Fig. 2. Join the shoulders and neck in the same way as in Fig. 2.

Sleeve: Make 2 squares; join these into a ring as in Fig. 1. Continue crocheting the sleeve as follows:
Row 1: 1 single crochet (sc) in the first ch st bow, * ch 5, 1 sc in the next ch st bow *, repeat from * - * around the entire sleeve = 13 ch st bows, fasten the last bow with 1 slip st in the first sc.
Row 2: Slip st to the center of the first ch st bow, 1 sc around the bow, * ch 5, 1 sc in the next ch st bow *, repeat from * - *. Repeat row 2 until the sleeve measures 20 cm [7-7/8"].
Now inc each ch st bow to ch 6. Continue in this fashion until the sleeve measures 28 cm [11"]. Now inc each ch st bow to ch 7. When the sleeve measures 38 cm [14-7/8"], inc each ch st bow to ch 8.
When the work measures 46 cm [18-1/8"], divide the work so that 1 square at the bottom of the sleeve is at the center of the hand and crochet back and forth. Finish when the sleeve measures 52 cm [20.5"].

Assembly: Set the sleeve into the body as in Fig. 1.
Crochet around the bottom edge of the body:
Row 1: * 1 sc, ch 1 *, repeat from * - *.
Row 2: * 1 sc around the ch st from the previous row, ch 1 *, repeat from * - *.
Crochet approx. 18 sc along the edge of 1 square.

Assembly – cardigan: Repeat the 2 rows of crochet around the neck edge and at the center front on the cardigan. Make a cord as follows: ch 2 bands approx. 50 cm [19.75"] long with double yarn. Sew 1 cord onto each side at the center front, at the top of the fourth square from the bottom.

Assembly – pullover: Repeat the 2 rows of crochet around the neck edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.03.2006
Cardigan - Body: Make 50 squares.
Sweater - Body: Make 52 squares.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch 5
symbols = ch 3
symbols = 1 single crochet (sc)
symbols = 1 crocheted square
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Leslie wrote:

So just to clarify. When I start back and forth on the sleeve- the chain 8 at the end of the row I turn and do a 1 sc in that chain stitch bow making that bow only 4 chain stitches? So at each end when you turn the chain stitch bows are long half the Length?

24.02.2022 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leslie, turn with 8 chains and crochet 1 sc in the first ch-space = you have half a ch-space, continue with the 8-ch-spaces and to the last ch-space of the row = you will have 12 ch-spaces + the first one as half a ch-space; turn with 8 ch, crochet 1 sc in the first ch-space, and crochet as before = you will have 12 ch-spaces + the first one as half a ch-space. Continue like this. Happy crocheting!

25.02.2022 - 09:13

country flag Leslie wrote:

Confused about sleeve instructions- I have worked in the round up to sleeve measuring 18-1/8 th The instructions now say “ When the work measures 46 cm [18-1/8"], divide the work so that 1 square at the bottom of the sleeve is at the center of the hand and crochet back and forth. Finish when the sleeve measures 52 cm [20.5"].“. Confused about divide the work? Would I not just continue until 20.5” then when I set the sleeve in make sure the squares are on top and bottom center?

21.02.2022 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leslie, lay the sleeve flat placing one square on top of wrist edge, mark the opposite side, the rows should now start from here, that way, when the sleeve is crocheted to the armhole, you have a square on top of hand. And continue now from here back and forth (without decreasing, just working ch-spaces as before). Happy crocheting!

22.02.2022 - 09:26

country flag Leslie wrote:

Confused about joining squares. Using fig 1 and legend ( using 5 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches and 1 double crochet). Are all the joins 5 chain stitches? Hard to see on diagram bold lines indicating 3 chain stitches, or a dot indicating 1 double crochet?

10.02.2022 - 22:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leslie, this video shows how to crochet squares together (this applies to a blanket, but you will work the same way for the squares here). Happy crocheting!

11.02.2022 - 09:20

country flag Janny wrote:

Ik begrijp niet hoe het moet met de mouwen. Ik heb tot 46 cm in het rond gehaakt en dan moet ik het werk keren. Hoe werkt dit? Moet ik dan 8 lossen, 1 vaste in het eerste boogje doen? En aan het eind van de toer, hoe gaat dat? Eindig ik met een vaste in het laatste boogje, keren, 8 lossen etc.? Er ontstaat dus een opening, dat is de bedoeling? Jammer dat jullie geen instructie/patroonuitleg hebben.

27.06.2021 - 00:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Janny,

Is inderdaad niet helder uitgelegd. Voordat je begint met heen en weer haken, zorg je dat je met een vaste eindigt midden onder de mouw. Dan keer je het werk en haak je halve vasten tot het midden van het eerste boogje. Dan maak je boogjes en je sluit de toer weer met een halve vaste in het midden onder de mouw. Keer het werk en haak weer halve vasten tot het midden van het eerste boogje. Haak boogjes en sluit de toer met een halve vaste waar het eerste boogje van de vorige toer begon (dus waar je tot het midden van het boogje halve vasten hebt gehaakt.) Zo gaa je verder heen en weer.

28.06.2021 - 12:40

country flag Jacqueline Vervelde wrote:

Hallo. Ik kom er niet uit met de mouwen. Je moet nu heen en weer haken ipv rond. Misschien kan er een video van gemaakt worden want heb al wel gezien dat er meerderen zijn die dit niet snappen. Van rond haken naar heen en weer met lossenbogen....ik wacht met spanning want wil het vest heel graag aan....

13.12.2020 - 22:28

country flag Jacqueline Vervelde wrote:

Hallo. Ik kom er niet uit met de mouwen. Je moet nu heen en weer haken ipv rond. Misschien kan er een video van gemaakt worden want heb al wel gezien dat er meerderen zijn die dit niet snappen. Van rond haken naar heen en weer met lossenbogen....ik wacht met spanning want wil het vest heel graag aan

13.12.2020 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacqueline,

Ja, je haakt inderdaad de mouwen in de rondte. Eerst maak je 2 vierkanten, die aan elkaar gehaakt worden volgens figuur 1 en dan haak je de mouw verder in de rondte tot het armsgat. Daarna brei je de mouw weer heen en weer.

22.12.2020 - 11:54

country flag Jacqueline Vervelde wrote:

Hallo. Ik kom er niet uit met de mouwen. Je moet nu heen en weer haken ipv rond. Misschien kan er een video van gemaakt worden want heb al wel gezien dat er meerderen zijn die dit niet snappen. Van rond haken naar heen en weer met lossenbogen....ik wacht met spanning want wil het vest heel graag aan

13.12.2020 - 22:25

country flag HELENE wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais faire le modèle du gilet Drops 65/9. Mais je en comprends pas ni le explications qui parlent de "carré" alors que je vois des fleurs et je ne comprends pas les explications qui parlent d'assemblage de carré alors que je vois le gilet tricoté en bride et en fleurs. merci de m'eclaicir sur ce modèle. J'en profite pour vous vous dire que j'adore votre site. Bien cordialement

15.11.2020 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, ce modèle se compose de carrés crochetés entre eux à la fin comme le montre le schéma - cette vidéo montre comment crocheter les 4 premiers tours de ces carrés - crochetez le dernier comme indiqué dans les explications. Bon crochet!

16.11.2020 - 09:29

country flag Leslie wrote:

Need help with joining squares in vertical columns. Starting at the centre of the 1st bow ch2 across seems fine but the video show ch 4 vertically then 1 sc in the 3 rd space. I repeated this but the chain 4 are all bunched. I am looking at diagram but it doesn’t show how many to skip. The diagram shows 6 bows along the sides with 6 connections in centre of each bow. My crocheted flower only 5 bows so do I skip enough to connect in the centre of each bows and disregard the video?

10.03.2020 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leslie, the video is showing the technique, but the number of chains/ sc can vary depending on each pattern, ie you have here to crochet the squares together as shown in fig. 1 and Fig.2 = 3 /5 chains between the squares and along the 6 ch-spaces from first corner to last corner each square - you should have 6-ch-spaces along each side of each square at the end of round 5. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

11.03.2020 - 09:05

country flag Leslie wrote:

Is there a right and wrong side to the squares? If so how do I tell which is which as I am about to weave i the tails of the squares.

02.03.2020 - 16:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leslie, you are working squares in the round, so that the side where you are crocheting is the right side and the side behind will be the wrong side. Happy crocheting!

03.03.2020 - 09:27