DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Long Island

Jumper with textured pattern and raglan with seams, worked bottom up in DROPS Paris. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 177-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-635
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
750-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g colour 100, light wash

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 19 stitches and 25 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Categories:
Women Jumpers
Keywords:
bottom up raglan rib round neck

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch in each side by knitting 2 stitches in the edge stitch in each side (= 2 stitches increased). The new stitches are worked in to pattern A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are from the right side! Decrease inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
DECREASE 1 STITCH IN EACH SIDE AS FOLLOWS:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Work until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 2 together.
DECREASE 2 STITCHES IN EACH SIDE AS FOLLOWS:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the stitches which were knitted together. Work until there are 3 stitches left before the edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3 stitches together.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections and is sewn together at the end.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 87-93-101-109-119-129 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and Paris. Work the pattern as follows (row 1 = right side):
Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, work diagram A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the needle, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 6-2-2-3-3-4 cm increase 1 stitch in each side of the piece – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way approx. every 6th-8th-8th-8th-10th-10th row 7-7-7-7-6-6 times = 101-107-115-123-131-141 stitches. Continue with the pattern until the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm. On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch in each side of the piece – READ DECREASE TIP. Decreases vary in the different sizes as follows:
SIZES S, M and L:
Decrease 1 stitch every 4th row 5-3-1 more times (= in total 6-4-2 times), then every 2nd row 23-28-33 times.
SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row 33-32-29 more times (= in total 34-33-30 times), 2 stitches every 2nd row 2-4-8 times and 1 stitch every 2nd row 1 time.

When all the decreases are finished, there are 43-43-45-45-47-47 stitches on the needle. Cast off the remaining stitches and work the front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as for the back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 50-52-53-55-56-58 cm place the middle 21-21-21-21-23-23 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue to cast off stitches on each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-2 times. When all the decreases are finished, there are 2 stitches left on the needle. Cast off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 53-59-61-69-73-83 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Paris. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side for 3 cm and adjust so that the last row is worked from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work the pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the needle, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the piece measures 5-4-6-5-6-4 cm increase 1 stitch in each side – remember increase tip! Increase in this way approx. every 14th-14th-8th-8th-6th-6th row in total 5-5-7-7-8-8 times = 63-69-75-83-89-99 stitches. The new stitches are worked into pattern A.1. When the piece measures 34-33-32-31-29-27 cm decrease 1 stitch in each side of the piece – remember decrease tip! Decreases vary in the different sizes as follows:
SIZES S, M and L:
Decrease 1 stitch every 4th row 5-3-1 more times (= in total 6-4-2 times), then every 2nd row 23-28-33 times.
SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row 33-32-29 more times (= in total 34-33-30 times), 2 stitches every 2nd row 2-4-8 times and 1 stitch every 2nd row 1 time.

When all the decreases are finished, there are 5 stitches left in all sizes. Cast off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeves to the front and back pieces in each side. Sew each and every stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and make sure the seam does not tighten.
Sew the seam under the sleeve and the side seam in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so that the seam is not thick. Cut and fasten the strand. Repeat in the other side.

NECKLINE:
Knit up approx. 102 to 114 stitches (including the stitches on the thread) with circular needle size 4 mm and Paris. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) around the whole neck. When the rib measures approx. 2 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Jocelyn Sacker wrote:

Hello Re long island. Is it possible to match the ribbing on the sweater with the ribbing on the neckband so that it looks like one piece and what is the pick up ratio for the neck decreases. Thank you

24.02.2023 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jocelyn, the pattern in this garment is not a full rib, but rather the rib is just used to give bulkiness to the pattern. The same pattern in the neck would not adjust correctly and give too much volume to the neckline. For the neckline, pick up sts evenly; make sure that you have the same amount of stitches from the mid-front towards each side, and then the rest for the back. The neckline shouldn't be too tight or too loose so, depending on your personal gauge, you may need more or less stitches. Happy knitting!

26.02.2023 - 22:56

country flag Jocelynsacker wrote:

Hello, I love the pattern and look forward to knitting it but can you tell me long the front and back should be before I start the increases. Thank you

26.05.2021 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jocelynsacker , start the increases on the sides - both on back and front pieces - when piece measures 6-2-2-3-3-4 cm. Happy knitting!

26.05.2021 - 13:54

country flag LASNE Marie-Andrée wrote:

Mon premier pull drops! Très agréable à tricoter ,joli point, mais déçue car au premier lavage, 30° programme laine, il s'est rétréci... comme un jean! J'ai choisi Paris en jean recyclé , je ne sais pas si c'est la raison... je devrai le repasser je pense pour l'étirer

08.04.2021 - 07:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lasne, l'avez-vous étiré après lavage? Il peut arriver que le coton rétrécisse un peu, étirez-le à ses mesures finales dès la sortie de la machine. retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bonne continuation!

08.04.2021 - 08:15

country flag Pierrette Dubé wrote:

Comment faire une manche marteau sur un chandail en toes up.Merci

08.04.2021 - 02:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dubé, ce modèle se tricote de bas en haut avec des manches marteau et pourra peut-être vous inspirer?

08.04.2021 - 08:05

country flag Sue wrote:

How long are the sleeves on this pattern please? They look as though they do not reach the wrist.

01.08.2019 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sue, the total length of sleeve is 51-52-53-54-54-55, it is measured from the neck (from S to XXXL). Happy knitting!

01.08.2019 - 18:38

country flag Natalie wrote:

Hello, When you say "When the piece measures 6-2-2-3-3-4 cm / 2 3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-1"-1"-1½" increase 1 stitch in each side" what does that mean? For size medium does that mean 8 cm? 2 3/4" = 7 cm so I am confused. Thanks!

24.12.2018 - 02:49

country flag Becky wrote:

Having made this up I can advise that the model in the pattern is either 2 feet tall or wearing XXXL. Based on the pattern guidance I made M and it's half the size illustrated.

25.09.2018 - 23:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Becky, you will find the finished measurements for this pattern at the bottom of the page - measurements are in cm taken flat from side to side. Remember to always check and keep your tension = 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette = 4"x4" to get the correct measurements as in chart. Adjust needle size if needed. Your DROPS store will provide you any further individual asssistance, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

26.09.2018 - 08:15

country flag MCéline wrote:

Bonjour, Ce pull me plait bcp et j'aimerais le faire du haut vers le bas (cette technique est parfaire pour moi qui rate tjs les assemblages). Pensez-vous que ce soit possible de l'inverser ? De commencer du haut vers le bas ? ... juste pour info, je ne suis pas une experte en tricot, loin de là. Merci bcp pour votre réponse.

13.09.2018 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour MCéline, c'est probablement possible, les mailles endroit des côtes seront juste inversées (le V sera plutôt /\) et il vous faudra ajuster les explications pour les tricoter depuis le col. Il est probablement plus simple de le tricoter ainsi. Vous trouverez ici différentes vidéos montrant comment faire les coutures. Bon tricot!

13.09.2018 - 09:00

country flag Blanchette Danielle wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais savoir où se trouve la grille A1 pour ce modèle. J'ai peut-être mal regardé mais tout ce que j'ai vu c'est le carré blanc = 1m. end sur end .... et le carré avec X = 1 m. env. sur end ... Merci de me dire quel sera le motif ou alors où trouver la grille.

30.04.2018 - 22:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blanchette, vous trouverez le diagramme A.1 à droite du schéma des mesures, juste sous la manche: c'est un petit diagramme qui se tricote sur 2 m et 6 rangs. Bon tricot!

02.05.2018 - 11:15

country flag Becky wrote:

Do you have a guide to reading charts like Chart A1 featured here? I don't know how to read it! Thanks.

03.03.2018 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Becky, we have a lesson about reading charts, here I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

04.03.2018 - 18:17