DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
DROPS Super Sale

Seaside Dream

Jumper worked top down with raglan, ¾ sleeves, lace pattern and flounce in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 175-28
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-122
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 7402, light sea green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 06, light grey green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edges in garter stitch.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 70 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 8) = 8.75. In this example increase alternately after approx. every 8th and 9th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagram A.1 finishes differently depending on the size.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. Begin 1 stitch before A.1 and work as follows: 1 yarn over, knit 1, marker thread, work A.1 and increase 2 stitches as shown in diagram, marker thread, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 4 stitches increased). On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread , make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 2 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 70-74-74-82-86-98 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 78-82-86-94-102-114 stitches on needle. Switch to a short circular needle size 5 mm, work next round as follows: Knit 14-15-16-18-20-23 stitches, insert 1 marker thread, knit 11 stitches (= right sleeve), insert 1 marker thread, knit 28-30-32-36-40-46 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread, knit 11 stitches (= left sleeve), insert 1 marker thread, knit 14-15-16-18-20-23 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
Then work in stocking stitch and A.1 between marker threads on each sleeve. AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase for RAGLAN in every transition between body and sleeves – see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased - NOTE: Increases on sleeves are shown in A.1). Increase like this every other round 20-22-24-26-29-30 times in total.
When A.1 has been worked in your size, increases for raglan are done and there are 238-258-278-302-334-354 stitches on needle. Piece measures now approx. 22-24-26-28-30-31 cm from shoulder and down.
Work next round as follows: Knit 34-37-40-44-49-53 stitches (= ½ back piece), slip the next 51-55-59-63-69-71 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= right sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these new stitches = in the side on body), knit the next 68-74-80-88-98-106 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 51-55-59-63-69-71 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= left sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these new stitches = in the side on body) and knit the remaining 34-37-40-44-49-53 stitches (= ½ back piece). Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 148-160-176-192-212-232 stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 4 cm 3 times in total in each side = 136-148-164-180-200-220 stitches. When piece measures 18 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4 cm 3 times in total in each side = 148-160-176-192-212-232 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm when piece measures 33-33-33-33-33-34 cm from division. Work 2 ridges. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off - make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge. Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Slip the 51-55-59-63-69-71 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-8-10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 57-61-67-71-77-81 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve and move it upwards when working - round begins here.
Then work as follows: 0-2-1-3 2-0 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2A (= 4 stitches – begin A.2 where A.1 ended in your size), A.2B over the next 48-48-56-56-64-72 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 repetitions of 8 stitches), A.2C (= 5 stitches) and 0-2-1-3-2-0 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease 8-10-12-13-15-17 times in total in S: On every 4th round, in M: On every 3rd round, in L + XL: On every other round, in XXL + XXXL: On every round = 41-41-43-45-47-47 stitches - NOTE: Work the stitches that do not fit the pattern when decreasing in stocking stitch, make sure that number of decreases and increases in pattern is correct.
When piece measures 18-16-15-14-12-11 cm from division under sleeve (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Remove 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and knit 1 round with 2 strands Kid-Silk. Every stitch now consists of 2 stitches because 2 strands were used = 82-82-86-90-94-94 stitches. Remove 1 strand Kid-Silk and continue with 1 strand Kid-Silk as follows: * Knit one of the 2 first/next stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit the second of the 2 first/next stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 123-123-129-135-141-141 stitches on needle. Knit 5 rounds. Then cast off as follows: * Cast off 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over on needle, cast off yarn over *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Slip stitches from stitch holder in the other side of piece on a short circular needle size 5 mm and work the same way as on first sleeve.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Fabienne wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais faire ce modèle mais sans kid silk est-ce que cela change beaucoup les explications (dimensions, nb de mailles, etc). Merci d'avance

29.04.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fabienne, vous pouvez ne pas utiliser Kid-Silk mais il vous faudra alors utiliser 1 autre fil du groupe A pour conserver la même tension de 17 m x 22 rangs jersey - utilisez notre convertisseur pour voir les différentes possibilités; ou bien il vous faudrait tout recalculer le modèle pour l'adapter avec la nouvelle tension. Bon tricot!

02.05.2022 - 07:52

country flag Loredana wrote:

Buongiorno, ho disfatto la manica perché nel ricominciarla seguendo il diagramma A2 non combacia il motivo. Sulle 6 maglie che riprendo da sotto la manica inizio con A2a oppure A2a inizia su A1? Inoltre cosa si intende per mettere un segnapunti al centro sotto la manica? Lo metto fra le 6 maglie (quindi 3 maglie, segnapunti, 3 maglie) oppure prima o dopo le 6 maglie? Poi devo diminunire 8 maglie o 16? Secondo me c’è un errore, sul testo. Diminuz. e gettati come si gestiscono?

14.02.2022 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Loredana, il giro inizia al centro sotto la manica, al centro delle 6 maglie avviate, quindi 3 maglie, segnapunti e altre 3 maglie. Per le diminuzioni, ad esempio per la taglia S deve diminuire 16 maglie. Buon lavoro!

14.02.2022 - 19:32

country flag Liselott Olsson wrote:

Jag förstår inte riktigt hur jag ska sticka ärmen. Man ska lägga alla maskor och plocka upp 8 nya maskor, varvet börjar mitt i dessa. Men vilket varv ska börja där. Får det inte att stämma med tidigare stickat mönster. Mönstret är 77 m första varvet och då har man ju stickat förbi där varvet ska börja.

19.11.2021 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Liselott. Hvilken str strikker du? Når du har strikket opp de maskene under ermet og satt 1 merketråd midt under ermet, klipp tråden og start neste omgang ved merketråden/midt under ermet. Videre strikkes det x-antall masker glattstrikk, A.2A (du starter med A.2 der A.1 sluttet i den størrelsen du strikker), A.2B over de neste x-antall maskene, A.2C (= 5 masker) og x-antall masker glattstrikk, fortsett mønstret slik. mvh DROPS Design

23.11.2021 - 09:38

country flag Susanne Mathiasen wrote:

Hej, Jeg kan ikke finde mål på de enkelte størrelser, hvilket jo er en forudsætning for valg af størrelse. Kan I hjælpe med det?

17.03.2021 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, målene på de enkelte størrelser finder du i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

18.03.2021 - 10:24

country flag Maria wrote:

Elimino la domanda di prima. sbagliavo i conti. grazie

29.03.2019 - 09:50

country flag Maria wrote:

Buongiorno. sono arrivata a lavorare il corpo al punto della diminuzione-1, non mi trovo. Ho 212 maglie devo diminuire 2 maglie ogni 4 cm x 3 volte. non arrivo a 200 maglie come da istruzioni. Dove sbaglio? Grazie

29.03.2019 - 09:39

country flag Carina wrote:

Is dit patroon beschikbaar voor gewone naalden ipv rondbreinaalden.

07.01.2019 - 21:17

country flag Margherita wrote:

Buongiorno, lo scollo a legaccio rende la scollatura poco elastica e scomoda da infilare. Per ottenere maggiore elasticità e morbidezza, quali alternative posso usare? L’avvio tubolare può andare bene anche in tecnica top down oppure devo aumentare il numero dei punti? Grazie!

18.12.2018 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Margherita. Può lavorare un bordo a coste 1 m dir (o dir ritorto) / 1 m rov. Può avviare le maglie con il metodo che preferisce. Buon lavoro!

19.12.2018 - 08:43

Sabina wrote:

Thank you for your answer , very helpful.I have another question- as I'm knitting in size S what is the first row out of the 12 in the A 2 pattern I should start to continue sleeve with in A2 pattern?

02.03.2018 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sabina, if you stopped the pattern, where the diagram says, for each size, you can start pattern A.2 at the first row. Otherwise knit the row which continues the pattern where you laft it off when separating the stitches. Happy Knitting!

04.03.2018 - 18:28

Sabina Dyli wrote:

Hi . For the sleeves, can you explain whether the last five rows need to be knitted in knit stitch or as per pattern *knit yarn over knit *? Thanks

28.02.2018 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dyli, work first 5 rounds in stockinette st (= K all rounds) then bind off with yarn overs: *bind off 1 st, make 1 YO, bind off YO* - see video below - repeat from *-*. Happy knitting!

01.03.2018 - 08:53