DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.50$.

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Crashing Waves

Knitted top with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Cotton Light. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 175-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-071
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 08, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch or 17 stitches and 28 rows lace pattern on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. See arrow for your size in A.1 and A.4.
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TOP:
The top is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Increase to raglan, the increases are shown in diagrams A.1 and A.3.

Cast on 132 stitches in all sizes with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and Cotton Light. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, then knit 1 round. Continue working as follows: * A.1 (= 5 stitches), A.2 (= 21 stitches), A.3 (= 7 stitches) *, work from *-* 4 times in total. The first repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the back piece, the second repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the sleeve, the third repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the front piece and the fourth repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the sleeve. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue this pattern until there are 3 rounds left before the round with the arrow – see the arrow for your size! Work as before over the first and then the third repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3. Over the second and the fourth repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 work the next 3 rounds as follows: purl over all stitches, knit over all stitches, purl over all stitches, but continue the increases as in A.1 and A.3. The next round is worked as follows (= the round with the arrow): work the first 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= the back piece) bind off the next 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= second repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3), work the next 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= the front piece), bind off the last 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= the fourth repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3).

BODY:
READ THE WHOLE OF THE FOLLOWING DESCRIPTION BEFORE CONTINUING! THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue as follows – start on the round with the arrow for your size: * Work A.4 (= 16-19-20-23-27-28 stitches), A.5 (= 22-20-22-20-20-22 stitches), A.6 (= 17-20-21-24-28-29 stitches), cast on 14-14-20-22-26-30 new stitches *, work from *-* 2 times = 138-146-166-178-202-218 stitches. Work 2 ridges over the new 14-14-20-22-26-30 stitches in each side, continue the pattern over the other stitches as before. NOTE! no stitches are decreased in diagrams A.4, A.5 and A.6. The number of stitches in stockinette stitch between the front and back pieces increases while the number of stitches in A.4, A.5 and A.6 decreases. When you have worked 2 ridges over the new stitches, work A.7 over the middle 6 stitches in each side. The increased stitches in A.7 are worked in stockinette stitch = 4 increased stitches every 8th round. When A.4, A.5 and A.6 have been worked 1 time in height continue with A.8 over these stitches.

When A.8 is finished in height continue working with stockinette stitch over the stitches on the front piece and the back piece, continue with the pattern and increases in A.7 as before. Continue until the piece measures 41-42-43-43-43-43 cm / 16"-16½"-17"-17"-17"-17'', there are now approx. 190-206-222-238-258-278 stitches on the round. Work 2 ridges over all the stitches, then bind off. The piece measures in total 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.09.2019
New chart A.3 (changes in row 29 row).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next round knit the yarn over, there will be holes
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over the stitches which were knitted together
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (62)

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Bonjour, puis-je faire des manches longues à ce modèle ?

13.03.2024 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne, vous pouvez probablement vous inspirer d'un modèle similaire de même tension - cf par ex pulls avec manches longues tricotés de haut en bas ici. Bon tricot!

13.03.2024 - 15:47

country flag Janic wrote:

Når jeg strikker a4/5 og 6 blir det ikke likt på venstre og høyre side både forran og bak. Skal mønstre ikke være midtstilt. F.eks. Skal glattstrikningen ikke være lik på begge sider, blir a8 skjev. Hva har jeg gjort feil ev.

05.07.2023 - 23:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janic, jo mønsteret skal være i midten, og der skal være lige mange masker glatstrik på hver side af mønsteret. :)

07.07.2023 - 10:20

country flag Janic wrote:

Når a4/5/6 er ferdig, er det 45 masker, men når a8 begynner er det 43 masker, stemmer det at det er 2 masker forskjell.

04.07.2023 - 23:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janic, ja, du fortsætter mønsteret over de midterste masker, øvrige masker strikkes i glatstrik :)

05.07.2023 - 08:34

country flag Egidia Barbato wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei realizzare questo progetto in piano potete aiutarmi? Grazie

20.06.2023 - 07:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Egidia, per la lavorazione in piano può aggiungere una maglia di vivagno a ogni lato per la cucitura e adattare il motivo alla lavorazione in piano. Per un'assistenza più personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

20.06.2023 - 16:57

country flag Elissa wrote:

I am confused about the body. I am making a size medium, so I casted on 14 new stitches on each side. After I finish knitting two ridges over these stitches, it tells me to work A7 over the middle 6 stitches. But what am I supposed to be working over the other (8) new stitches?? Is that just stockinette? Is it also stockinette that I am knitting when I decrease the lace pattern in A4/A5A6?

07.02.2023 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elissa, you will work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch, ie 4 sts in stocking stitch, 6 sts as in A.7, 4 sts in stocking stitch. All the new stitches decreased in A.4/A.6 and increased in A.7 will be worked in stocking stitch so that there will be by and by more stocking stitches and less lace pattern (continue A.7 to the end). Happy knitting!

08.02.2023 - 09:05

country flag Marie-Pierre wrote:

Désolée, mais je ne comprends pas comment vous comptez les augmentations. Le rang pour la flèche M est le rg 26. Je commence donc la répétition au rg 23. Au rg 25, il y a 11 jetés sur A1-A3 donc je comprends 11 augmentations pour chaque manche donc 22 mailles en plus. Où alors faut-il ne faire que les augmentations du rg 23 (=3 rgs avant la fleche M) et les repeter 2 fois? Je suis un peu perdue.

07.07.2022 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Pierre, tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 tours à faire avant celui avec la flèche, puis tricotez le tour suivant comme avant sur le dos/le devant (= rang 23, point ajouré) mais tricotez les manches à l'envers (en augmentant 1 m de chaque côté - comme avant dans A.1 et A.3); tricotez le rang 24 à l'endroit sur toutes les mailles, tricotez le rang 25 sur le dos/le devant mais tricotez les manches à l'envers. Au rang 26 (flèche), tricotez le dos/le devant comme avant mais rabattez les mailles des manches. Bon tricot!

08.07.2022 - 09:49

country flag Marie-Pierre wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai un problème avec la partie où il fait repeter A1-A2-A3 juste avant la flèche pour ls taille (je fais taille M). D'après les explication il faut quand même continuer les augmentations sur A1 et A3, au dessus du 2e et 4e motif. Sauf que au final, je devrais avoir 4×59 mailles=236 mailles et je me retrouve avec 270.! Je me demande où j'ai fait une erreur. Jusqu'à ces 3 derniers rangs mon nombre de mailles était OK et tout allait bien. Merci de votre aide.

07.07.2022 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Pierre, à la fin du 24ème rang (=3 avant la flèche, vous avez 228 mailles); lorsque vous tricotez le 25ème rang (celui après la flèche, vous tricotez A.1, A.2 et A.3 du devant et du dos comme avant, mais tricotez les A.1, A.2 et A.3 des manches à l'envers en, augmentant comme avant = 228+8=236 m soit 57 m + 2 =59 mailles pour le dos/le devant et les 2 manches. Au 26 ème rang, tricotez le dos/le devant comme avant en continuant les diagrammes et rabattez les 59 mailles des manches. Bon tricot!

07.07.2022 - 16:11

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, je m’excuse mais je pense que je m’exprime mal.j’arrive au dos et devant. Je fais A4, A5, A6 = 79 m + 2x30 mailles, pour le premier et 2e rang. Lorsque j’arrive au 3e rang (3e tour), j’arrive à 77 mailles, j’ai 2 mailles en trop, si je suis le diagramme, par rapport aux rangs 1 et 2. Est-ce parce que le modèle commence en pointe à cet endroit? Si je dois tricoter ces 2 mailles en jersey, j’en tricote 1 au début de A4 et l’autre après A6?

04.07.2022 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, tout à fait, les mailles diminuées dans A.4 et A.6 sont les mailles du point ajouré, mais le nombre de mailles total ne doit pas dimiuer, autrement dit, tricotez les mailles restantes en jersey. Au 3ème rang des diagrammes, commencez A.4 1 maille avant le A.4 précédent, vous terminerez A.6 1 m avant le A.6 précédent, et ainsi de suite tous les 2 tours jusqu'à ce qu'il reste les mailles de A.8 (= le point fantaisie se termine en pointe) - N'oubliez pas de tricoter A.7 sur les côtés (sous les manches) pour augmenter le nombre de mailles sur les côtés et créer la forme trapèze. Bon tricot!

05.07.2022 - 08:55

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse, vous avez raison pour le premier rang, mais au 3e tour, je compte A4(27m) A5(21m) et A6 (29 m) = 77 mailles. Où est-ce que je me trompe. Je suis perdue, j’ai calculé et défait plusieurs fois! Merci de m’aider. .

04.07.2022 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, vous allez maintenant diminuer le point fantaisie en pointe (comme on le voit sur la photo), autrement dit, tricotez les mailles du point ajouré comme dans A.4, A.2 et A.6 puis, quand ces diagrammes seront terminés, vous tricoterez A.8 pour terminer la pointe. Toutes les autres mailles se tricotent en jersey (les mailles qui "manquent" dans A.4 et A.6 sont des mailles à tricoter en jersey, le nombre de mailles ne doit pas diminuer). Bon tricot!

04.07.2022 - 16:27

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, je fais la grandeur XXXL.J’ai un problème avec le diagramme A4, A5 et A6. Le tour 2, j’ai 79 mailles, je dois faire A4 (27m) A5(21m) A6(29m) =77 mailles. Il me reste 2 mailles en trop. Qu’est-ce que je fais de mal?

02.07.2022 - 16:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, lorsque vous tricotez ce tour, vous commencez par le rang avec la flèche, autrement dit: les 28 mailles du 1er rang de A.4, puis les 22 mailles de A.5 et les 29 mailles de A.6, ainsi vous avez bien 79 mailles. Bont ricot!

04.07.2022 - 08:00