DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 175-24
DROPS design: Pattern no w-631
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-300 g colour 17, off white

DROPS HOOK SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 14 trebles x 8.5 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
At beginning of every round/row with trebles replace first treble on round/row with 3 chain stitches.
At beginning of every round/row with double crochet work 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet).

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 treble by working 2 trebles in same stitch.
Increase 1 double treble by working 2 double trebles in same stitch.
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VEST:
The vest is worked in 3 parts. Work back piece as a square separately. Work front pieces as a half circle and continue up to shoulder. When front pieces and back piece are sewn together, work 1 round with picots along entire outer edge.

BACK PIECE:
Begin with crochet hook size 5 mm and Paris and work pattern according to diagram A.2 4 times in total on round (A.1 shows how round begins and ends). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.2 has been worked, there are 35 trebles along each side and 4 corners that consist of 2 trebles, 3 chain stitches and 2 trebles. The square for back piece is done for size S/M, fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 28 x 28 cm. Continue in the round in size L/XL and XXL/XXXL as follows:

L/XL:
Repeat the last 2 rounds. Increase 1 treble before and after each corner. There are now 2 trebles more on each of the 4 sides = 39 trebles along each side. Fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 37 x 37 cm.

XXL/XXXL:

Repeat the last 2 rounds. Increase 1 treble before and after each corner. There are now 2 trebles more on each of the 4 sides = 43 trebles along each side. Work slip stitches until chain space with 3 chain stitches in first corner. Then work from 2nd row in diagrams A.3A to A.3C back and forth along one side as follows: Work A.3A around this chain space (shows how row begins and ends) - READ CROCHET INFO. Work A.3B until 1 treble remains before chain space in next corner, work A.3C (= 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble and work 1 treble around chain space in corner). Turn and work last row in diagrams.
Fasten off. Work the same way along the side on opposite side of square. Fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 47 x 37 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 5 mm with Paris and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Then work a half circle as follows:
ROW 1: Work 4 chain stitches, * 1 treble around chain stitch ring, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* 7 more times, finish with 1 treble around ring.
Turn and work as follows from right side: Work A.4A, A.4B, A.4C. On last row in diagrams increase evenly as follows - READ INCREASE TIP: Increase 0-6-6 trebles over A.4A (= 27-33-33 trebles) and 0-9-9 double trebles over A.4B (= 30-39-39 double trebles). Increase 0-3-3 trebles before corner in A.4C (= 6-9-9 trebles) and increase 0-3-3 trebles after corner (= 13-16-16 trebles). there are 76-97-97 stitches in total + corner (= 2 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles) on last row. Size S/M is now done, fasten off. Work back and forth in the 2 next sizes as follows:

L/XL- XXL/XXXL:
Turn and work from wrong side. Work from row marked with arrow in diagrams as follows: Work A.5B over the first 15 trebles, A.5A, 3 chain stitches, (2 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles) around chain space in corner, 3 chain stitches, A.5B over the next 9 trebles, A.5C over the next 39 double trebles, A.5B over the next 32 trebles, finish with A.5A in the last treble on row. Work last row in diagrams the same way. There are now 97 trebles/double trebles + 1 corner (= 2 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles) on last row. Fasten off.

SHOULDER:
Now work back and forth over the first trebles from right side in A.4 (in size S/M) and A.5 (in size L/XL and XXL/XXXL), begin from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: Work A.3A, A.3B 5-6-7 times in total in width. Turn and work last row. Repeat the 2 last rows in diagrams 3-3-4 more times. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
S/M and L/XL: Sew shoulder on to each side at the top edge on crochet square/back piece. Sew stitches together one by one. On back piece there are now 17-21 trebles for neck between shoulder pieces. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
XXL/XXXL: Sew shoulder on to each side at the top edge on crochet square/back piece. Sew the 6 outermost treble crochets on shoulder to the side of the 2 outermost rows on back piece and sew the other stitches together one by one.
On back piece there are now 25 trebles for neck between shoulder pieces. Cut the yarn and fasten off.

PICOT EDGE:
Begin on top of one shoulder and work a picot edge as follows:
Work * 1 treble in treble/around row, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitches in first of the 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles in same treble/around row, skip approx. 2.5 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire vest, i.e. around both armholes, along edge on front pieces, back of neck along bottom edge on back piece. Finish with a slip stitch in first treble on round. Fasten off.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths of 1.5 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread string through picot edge at the front on one front piece and tie a knot. Make another 3 strings the same way.
Fasten one to the other front piece.

Use the 2 other strands to keep front and back piece together in each side: Start approx. 21-23-25 cm from top of one of the front pieces and the back piece. Thread the string back and forth through holes in the picot edge, between the front and back piece in zig zags (like a shoe lace) and tie them together at the bottom - see picture.
Adjust length on string so that distance between front piece and back piece is approx. 6-6-8 cm. Repeat in the other side.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 1 slip stitch
symbols = 1 treble around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 1 treble in stitch
symbols = 1 double treble around chain space
symbols = 1 double treble in stitch
symbols = 1 half treble around chain space
symbols = Treble group with 2 trebles: Work 1 treble around next chain stitch/chain space but wait with last pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), then work next treble around same chain stitch/chain space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all stitches on hook.
symbols = work around chain space as follows: 2 trebles, 3 chain stitch, 2 trebles (= corner)
symbols = work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch Black dot on circle is beginning of round
symbols = round is explained in pattern and has already been worked
symbols = row shows last row on previous diagram and has already been worked
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch
symbols = begin on this row (= from wrong side)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Trine wrote:

Bindes vesten sammen foran eller hænger den løst?

15.10.2023 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Trine, Vi har lavet 2 snore midt foran, så man kan binde sammen hvis man vil :)

17.10.2023 - 15:41

country flag Mesnier wrote:

Mais pourquoi ne voit on pas ce " coin" sur la photo en bas du gilet ? Merci

07.09.2023 - 13:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mesnier, ce n'est pas forcément important, le coin va se trouver côté bas du gilet, orientez-vous à l'aide des diagrammes et des indications précédentes pour bien vous repérer; n'hésitez pas à demander de l'aide à votre magasin ou via notre DROPS Workshop, ce sera peut-être ainsi plus facile à d'autres crocheteuses de pouvoir vois aider en voyant votre ouvrage. Bon crochet!

07.09.2023 - 17:00

country flag Mesnier wrote:

J'aimerais simplement savoir SI LE COIN (2 brides 3 mailles 2 brides) se trouve EN HAUT ou EN BAS du gilet ? MErci

01.09.2023 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mesnier, si vous parlez de ce groupe crocheté dans A.4C, c'est alors bien en bas du devant (côté opposé à l'épaule). Bon crochet!

04.09.2023 - 09:23

country flag Mesnier wrote:

Toujours moi, est-ce que le coin (2 brides 3 mailles en l'air 2 brides) se trouve en bas ou en haut du gilet ? J'ai fait les devants et le dos il y a un certain temps et je ne me souviens pas où j'ai terminé mon dernier rang ? Donc coin vers emmenchures ou en bas du gilet ? Cordialement

01.09.2023 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mesnier, parlez-vous de cette partie du diagramme de A.4C? Alors A.4c se trouve à gauche, vu sur l'endroit (pour le devant droit), autrement dit du côté opposé à celui où on va crocheter l'épaule. Bon crochet!

01.09.2023 - 15:34

country flag Mesnier wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse mais j'aimerais savoir où se trouve le coin (2 brides 3 mailles en l'air 2 brides) par rapport à l'épaule ? Merci pour votre réponse Cordialement

31.08.2023 - 10:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mesnier, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre votre question, vous avez d'abord crocheté un demi-cercle, en terminant soit par A.4 soit par A.5. Pour crocheter l'épaule, vous aller travailler uniquement les premières mailles de droite, vus sur l'endroit autrement dit, vous crochetez au-dessus du diagramme A.4A (en S/M) ou A.5A/B (en L/XL et XXLXXXL). Ai-je bien compris cette fois?

01.09.2023 - 08:28

country flag Mesnier wrote:

Je suis perdue. Où faire les épaules ? Où placer le coin par rapport aux épaules ? Cordialement

29.08.2023 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mesnier, l'épaule se fait sur les premières brides de A.4/A.5, vu sur l'endroit, autrement dit, sur le côté droit du demi-cercle pour le devant droit. Bon crochet!

30.08.2023 - 07:38

country flag Mesnier wrote:

Je suis complètement perdue... où et comment faire les épaules ? Où placer le \"coin\" par rapport aux épaules ?\r\nMerci pour votre réponse.\r\nCordialement

29.08.2023 - 10:23

country flag Michelle Williamson wrote:

Why does the stitches on the vest look different to the pattern and i think the pattern is slightly off i am counting the stitches on the pictures and they don't line up and i feel the beginning of A.1 and A.2 is off.

30.09.2022 - 11:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Williamson, A.1 is just showing how to start/end each round, then you will work A.2 a total of 4 times in the round - make sure you are reading the appropriate English pattern since UK and US crochet terms are different - maby it can help? Read more about crochet diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

30.09.2022 - 13:19

country flag Ekaterina wrote:

Dear Drops! Thank you for your prompt reply, but I still have problems with the shoulder. I understand that I have to replace the first tr with 3 chains but I don't understand where exactly the row begins. Should I count from the corner= 2tr+3ch +2tr or start the shoulder over 13 trebles and work A. 3A in the tr in stich from previous row?

27.05.2020 - 00:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ekaterina, in the 2nd size you have to work a total of 13 sts in A.3A and A.3B, count the last 13 sts from the end of the previous row (from the left towards the right, seen from RS) and join yarn here, You will then have enough room to work: A.3A and repeat A.3B a total of 6 times in width. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

27.05.2020 - 08:55

country flag Ekaterina wrote:

Dear Drops! I need to specify the start of the shoulder- should I start A. 3A = 1 tr at the corner or at the 3 ch stitches after the corner? Should I work A. 3B over the last 13 tr?

25.05.2020 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ekaterina, you have to replace the first tr with 3 chains (see info crochet), so that A.3A will be worked with 3 chains at the beg of the row and as 1 treble at the end of row from WS - A.3B will end with 1 tr from RS and start with 3 ch (instead of 1 tr) from WS. Happy crocheting!

26.05.2020 - 08:41