DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 175-10
DROPS design: Pattern no w-628
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Width: 94 cm Length: 133 cm
Measurements square: approx. 39 x 39 cm
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700 g colour 01, apricot
300 g colour 38, coral

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 trebles x 10.5 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
Diagram A.1b measures approx. 24 x 24 cm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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BLANKET:
Work 6 crochet square and crochet them together before working an edge around the entire blanket.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Begin with hook size 3.5 mm and apricot and work pattern according to diagram A.1b 4 times in total on round - diagram A.1a shows how round begins and ends and work in addition to A.1b. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When entire diagram A.1a and A.1b have been worked vertically, crochet square measures approx. 24 x 24 cm. Cut the yarn.
Begin in 4th double crochet before a corner and work from 3rd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.2a in double crochet (A.2a shows how round begins and ends), work A.2b over the first 3 chain stitch spaces, * work A.2c (= corner), work A.2b over the next 9 chain stitch spaces (= 3 repetitions) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.2c in the corner and finish with A.2b over the remaining 6 chain stitch spaces (= 2 repetitions) on round. When last round in diagram A.2a to A.2c has been worked, fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 39 x 39 cm.
Work another 5 crochet squares the same way = 6 crochet squares in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Now assemble the 6 crochet squares by working squares together through both layers with apricot as follows:
Place 2 crochet squares with wrong side against each other, fasten strand with 1 double crochet around chain stitch space in a corner, * work 1 double crochet through both layers in next treble, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 treble *, repeat from *-* until the entire side has been worked, work 1 double crochet around chain stitch space. Repeat on the other crochet squares so that there are 2 strips with 3 crochet squares in length. Then work the 2 strips together to get 2 crochet squares in width and 3 crochet squares in length. See measurement chart.

EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire piece in coral. Begin with 1 double crochet around chain stitch space in a corner and work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows:
NOTE: On 2nd round in diagrams work 1 double crochet in transition between 2 crochet squares (i.e. where they are crochet together) instead of working 1 double crochet around chain space in corners on each of the crochet squares. There are then 15 chain stitch spaces along each of the sides on crochet squares,
Work A.2a (shows how round begins and ends) * work A.2b until next corner on blanket, work A.2c (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 3 more times. When all rounds in A.2a-A.2c are done vertically, fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.01.2018
One line under the 3rd diagram icon is deletet (this line: , then work slip stitches until middle of first chain stitch space).

Updated online: 11.09.2023
CROCHET SQUARE:... Begin in 4th double crochet before a corner and work from 3rd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.2a in double crochet ...

Diagram

symbols = work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch space/between 2 trebles
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches up to 2nd chain stitch space
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 5 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 5th chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = work 2 trebles together around chain stitch ring/chain stitch space Work 1 treble but wait with last pull through, work 1 more treble but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain stitch space
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 1 treble around chain stitch space
symbols = 1 treble in stitch
symbols = 1 half treble around chain space/around space between 2 triple trebles
symbols = 1 double treble around chain stitch space
symbols = 1 triple treble in stitch/around chain stitch space
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Planchaud wrote:

Bonjour! Je n'ai pas un niveau avance en crochet, je suis en train de crocheter ce modèle, je bloque au moment où j'arrive à A2a+b, j'ai du mal à comprendre cette phrase : '' en commençant dans la 4eme maille serrée, crocheter à partir du 3eme tour des diagrammes ''. Je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre ce qu'est c'est qu'un '' tour '', car pour moi le 3eme rang.. Je n'arrive pq à trouver d'explication, votre aide ne serait pas de refus.. Merci !

09.09.2023 - 10:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Planchaud, lorsque A.1a et A.1b sont terminés, vous crochetez maintenant les diagrammes A.2a. Joignez le fil dans la 4ème maille serrée avant un des coins et crochetez A.2a (= début / fin des tours), crochetez le diagramme A.2b puis répétez (A.2c, 3 x A.2b) et terminez le tour par 2 x A.2b. Bon crochet!

11.09.2023 - 08:51

country flag Heidi wrote:

Slett gjerne spørsmålene mine. Jeg leser ikke godt nok. Beklager :/

13.05.2023 - 19:19

country flag Heidi wrote:

Beklager mas fra min side - men når man skal hekle kant så begynner man vel med 2. omgang av a2b - siden siste omgang av rutene (som nå er sydd sammen) har staver og ikke luftmasker? Så står det også at man skal begynne i et hjørne når man hekler kant - samtidig blir det beskrevet at man skal hekle a2b - og denne begynner før tredje luftmaskebue (hvor man for øvrig har staver når man skal hekle sammen). Jeg er forvirret :)

13.05.2023 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi. Så bra at du fant ut av det selv. Håper du da fikk heklet i helgen, god fornøyelse videre på teppet. mvh DROPS Design

15.05.2023 - 12:09

country flag Heidi wrote:

I a2b der man begynner med 5 luftmasker og hekler trippelstaver - bør man starte med kjedemasker opp til stav 3 i første vifte før man hekler 5 luftmasker og følger oppskriften videre. Ellers blir det feil.

09.05.2023 - 06:53

country flag Heidi wrote:

På a2b nest siste rad når man begynner med 2 lm og stort sett hekler halvstaver. Dette gjør at jeg får 14 stavgrupper når jeg er ferdig med alt. På de andre sidene blir det 13. Hva gjør jeg feil?

08.05.2023 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Heidi, i A.2b skal du have 3 halvstaver i hver rapport, de 2 lm i starten gør at du kommer op på rækken :)

09.05.2023 - 10:35

country flag Heidi wrote:

Begynnelsen på a2c (hjørnet) - er det tre luftmasker eller tre fastmasker om buen? Ser jo instruksjonene men forstår ikke hvordan luftmasker vil bli pent her.

08.05.2023 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Heidi, jo det er luftmasker. Har du se videoerne som er lavet til denne rude? Du finder dem nederst i opskriften !

09.05.2023 - 10:26

country flag Berina wrote:

Anden sidste maskebetegnelse er forkert Der skal stå "dobbelt stangmaske"

16.06.2022 - 23:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Berina. Tack för info, detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

20.06.2022 - 14:55

country flag Betina wrote:

Anden sidste massebetegnelse er forkert Der skal stå "dobbelt stangmaske"

16.06.2022 - 23:06

country flag Peggy Glock wrote:

Why can I not get sound on the videos? I have tried a Fire Tablet and a laptop and neither give me sound.

01.03.2021 - 23:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Glock Our videos do not have sound. We are a worldwide company and our videos are watched by people around the world, speaking different languages, many of whom do not understand English. Follow the diagram and /or the text at the same time as you are watching the video and there is no sound to disturb while watching. Enjoy!

02.03.2021 - 07:42

country flag Ximena Miranda wrote:

Me gustaría saber cuándo se usa el diagrama 2 a, b y c. Seguí el video y sólo se utiliza 1a y b. No he logrado entender dónde se usan los diagramas 2. Hay un punto alto triple en 2b y 2c, donde va?

13.01.2021 - 23:04