DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Hummingbird

Jacket knitted sideways with lace pattern and ¾ sleeves in DROPS Paris. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 177-3
DROPS design: Pattern no w-648
Yarn group C - or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g color 16, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 stitches x 22 rows in stockinette stitch/lace pattern = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edges in garter stitch.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

KNITTING TIP:
If the lace pattern is done before correct measurements work stockinette stitch with A.1 in each side as before to get the correct measurements.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 1 stitch before marker, make 1 yarn-over, knit 2, 1 yarn-over. On next round knit yarn-over twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in the pattern.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front to mid back in 2 parts. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

RIGHT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Cast on 200-200-219-219-238-238 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Work first row as follows from right side: A.1 (= 5 stitches), A.2A (= 9 stitches), A.2B over the next 171-171-190-190-209-209 stitches (= 9-9-10-10-11-11 repetitions of 19 stitches), A.2C (= 10 stitches) and A.1 (= 5 stitches). Continue pattern like this. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 180-180-197-197-214-214 stitches on needle.
Work next row as follows from the right side: Continue A.1 as before, work A.3A (= 8 stitches), A.3B over the next 153-153-170-170-187-187 stitches (= 9-9-10-10-11-11 repetitions of 17 stitches), A.3C (= 9 stitches) and finish with A.1 as before. Continue pattern like this. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 131-131-143-143-155-155 stitches on needle.
Work next row as follows from the right side: Continue A.1 as before, work A.4A (= 6 stitches), A.4B over the next 108-108-120-120-132-132 stitches (= 9-9-10-10-11-11 repetitions of 12 stitches), A.4C (= 7 stitches) and finish with A.1 as before. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When A.4 has been worked, piece measures approx. 31 cm / 12 1/4'' measured from the cast on edge (measure from the middle of the wave pattern). Then work in stockinette stitch with A.1 over the 5 outermost stitches in each side as before.
When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½'', bind off for armhole as follows from right side: Work the first 38 stitches, bind off the next 29-31-33-35-35-37 stitches and work as before over the last 64-62-72-70-82-80 stitches. On next row cast on 29-31-33-35-35-37 stitches over the bind off stitches and continue in stockinette stitch and A.1 in each side as before
When piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm / 17¼''-18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼'' (i.e. 2-3-4-5-6-7 cm / 3/4"-1"-1½"-2"-2½"-2 3/4" from armhole), work next row as follows from right side: Continue A.1 as before, work A.5A (= 6 stitches), A.5B over the next 108-108-120-120-132-132 stitches (= 9-9-10-10-11-11 repetitions of 12 stitches), A.5C (= 7 stitches) and finish with A.1 as before. Continue pattern like this. When A.5 has been worked, piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'' measured from the cast on edge (measure from the middle of the wave pattern). - READ KNITTING TIP. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Then bind off by knitting from right side - bind-off edge = make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge.

LEFT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as on right front and back piece until piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''. Now bind off for armhole as follows from right side: Work the first 64-62-72-70-82-80 stitches, bind off the next 29-31-33-35-35-37 stitches and work as before over the last 38 stitches. On next row cast on 29-31-33-35-35-37 stitches over the bind off stitches and continue the same way as on right front and back piece.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 37-37-39-41-43-45 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work A.6A until 1 stitch remain on round, work A.6B (= 1 stitch). When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round and move the marker upwards when working. Work next round as follows: 0-0-1-2-3-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.4A (= 6 stitches), A.4B over the next 24 stitches, A.4C (= 7 stitches) and 0-0-1-2-3-4 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-6-8-6-6-8 cm / 3"-2½"-3"-2½"-2½"-3", increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4" 10-11-12-13-13-14 times in total = 57-59-63-67-69-73 stitches. When A.4 has been worked, work in stockinette stitch over all stitches until piece measures 38 cm / 15'' in all sizes. On next round bind off the middle 6 stitches mid under sleeve and finish sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle. Work in stockinette stitch and bind off the first 4 stitches at beginning of every row 4 times in total in each side = 19-21-25-29-31-35 stitches remain on needle. Bind off the remaining stitches, piece measures approx. 42 cm / 16½'' in all sizes. Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Graft/sew the 2 parts together mid back inside bind-off edge. Sew in sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn-over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Linda McKnight wrote:

The pattern sizes range from small to 3X, however there are no measurements for what those sizes mean. Even the schematic on the last page doesn't indicate inches or cm and the only measurements listed in the pattern are for the width of the knitting and not an actual size. So, what are the size measurements?

28.01.2023 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, the measurements in the schematic are always in cm. You can see the total length and width of the garment in the schematic; each number of each sequence is for a specific size. Take into account that, when measuring the total width, it indicates the width of the back, so you may use that to check which size you want to work. Happy knitting!

29.01.2023 - 20:21

country flag Carla wrote:

I have a question. I don't understand how to do the increase of the sleeve. It says that I should increase in the mid under sleeve. Is that the middle of the sleeve? Ag the beginning of the sleeve? I don't get it. It also says to bind off 6 stitches in the mid under sleeve. Same problem. Please I need help. Also I don't understand the same instructions on the pattern in Spanish.

21.05.2021 - 04:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carla, sleeve is worked in the round, to increase work the round until 1 stitch remain before the marker at the end of the round, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over and continue working all stitches as before. When measurements are right, work to the last 3 sts on the round, cast off these 3 sts + the first 3 sts at the beg of next round and continue now working in rows. Happy knitting!

21.05.2021 - 07:55

country flag Gerda wrote:

Klopt het dat de patronen allemaal heel erg groot uitvallen? Ik heb 4 patronen gebreid van drops d esign. Ik begin nu bij voorbaat met de kleinste maat maar nog steeds is het model veel te groot. En als ik kleinere naalden pak wordt het breiwerk heel strak ...

28.03.2021 - 08:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gerda,

Als de stekenverhouding klopt, kun je gewoon het patroon volgen en dan worden de maten zoals aangegeven in de matentekening onderaan het patroon. Heb je van te voren een proeflapje gebreid om te controleren of de stekenverhouding klopt? Wellicht heb je dunnere naalden nodig om tot dezelfde stekenverhouding te komen.

01.04.2021 - 20:16

country flag Sandra Topke wrote:

Ich bin am Verzweifeln. Nach mehreren Versuchen komme ich nach A 3 nicht auf 143, sondern 147 Maschen. Ich finde meinen Fehler nicht. Was ist jeweils die erste und die letzte Masche des Rapport A 3B? Bin unsicher wegen der Umschläge.

21.05.2018 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Topke, es wird zuerst 1 M in A.3A, 2 M in jedem A.3.B und 1 M in A.3C abgenommen (= insgesamt 22 M abgenommen). Dann wird es 1 M in A.3A, 3 M in jedem A.3B und 1 M in A.3C abgenommen (= insgesamt 32 M abgenommen), es waren 197 M - 54 Abnahme = 143 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.05.2018 - 09:29

country flag Doris wrote:

Hallo! Stricke ich die Umschläge bei Vorder- und Rückenteil verschränkt (ohne Löcher) oder so, dass es Löcher gibt? Es steht nur bei den AERMELN, dass man Löcher vermeiden soll.

05.04.2018 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, die Umschläge bei Vorder- und Rückenteil werden wie im Diagram gestrickt, dh es soll Löcher enstehen, nur bei den Aufnahmen für die Ärmel werden die Umschläge verschränkt gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.04.2018 - 08:34

country flag Doris Doshi wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht, weshalb ich hier RUNDNADELN benötige, wenn steht, dass ich in Hin- und Rückreihen stricken muss? Zudem ist das Stück ja nicht in einem Schlauch gestrickt? Wo mache ich den Überlegungsfehler?

28.03.2018 - 12:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, wir geben in der Regel die Verwendung von Rundnadeln an, auch wenn in Hin- und Rück-Reihen gestrickt wird, da es bequemer ist, mit einer großen Maschenzahl wie in dieser Anleitung auf einer Rundnadel statt mit Paarnadeln zu stricken. Die Maschen und auch das Gewicht des Strickstücks verteilen sich auf dem Seil der Rundnadel besser. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

28.03.2018 - 13:37

country flag Angela wrote:

Hi, I'm having trouble with this once I get to row 20 of the pattern as a hole (row 14 of pattern A3), Row 19 I have 160 sts, Row 20-22 I would have 176 sts,Row 23 147 sts, Row 24 171 sts. It says I should be ending this row with 131 sts according to the directions. How is this possible when A3B shows P 17 repeated 9 times. This would be 153 stitches and that doesn't include A3A, A3C or the A1 in the ends. I'm obviously missing something... can you please help? Thanks!

27.06.2017 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Angela, you will dec first 1 st in A.3A, then 2 sts in each A.3B and 1 st in A.3C, then dec 1 st in A.3A, 3 sts in each A.3B and 1 st in A.3C = remaining: 6 sts in A.3A, 12 sts in A.3B and 7 sts in A.3C, so that you have 6+12x9 + 7 + (2 x 5 sts = A.1 on each side ) = 131 sts. Happy knitting!

28.06.2017 - 10:09

country flag Janny wrote:

Hallo, als je 5st. a1-5st.a3-10x14st.b3=140st.-6st.3c-5st.a1 doet heb je 161 st. over ipv. 143st. ik heb nu 5st.a1-5st.recht en 1 mindering A3- 2x1mindering, 9 recht,1mindering en dit 10x in 3b-1mindering ,6recht in 3c-5st a1. is 143 st. Nu loopt het volgende patroon mooi door boven het golven patroon.

15.05.2017 - 17:06

country flag Janny wrote:

Ik ben dit mooie patronen aan het breien maar kom niet uit met naald 17 van patroon 3. Het patroon loopt niet recht boven elkaar en het aantal steken klopt ook niet.

04.05.2017 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hally Janny, In telpatroon A.3 brei je eerst A.3A (waar 1 mindering in zit), dan, afhankelijk van je maat, een aantal herhalingen van A.3B (waar 3 minderingen in zitten en op het eind brei je A.3C waar 1 mindering in zit. Het klopt dat de minderingen niet recht boven de gaatjes van 4 naalden daaronder zitten. Kun je aangeven waar in het patroon het aantal steken volgens jou niet kloppen?

12.05.2017 - 19:48

country flag Helga Anna wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, liebe Sabine Klammer! Ich finde in der letzten Musterreihe (Reihe 17) von A3 zwei Fehler. Zwischen den Abnahmen im Rapport werden nicht 11 sondern nur 9 Maschen rechts gestrickt und in A.3C fehlt eine Abnahme.

03.04.2017 - 20:00