DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Flair

Knitted DROPS tunic with cables, garter st and lace pattern, worked top down in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-1
DROPS design: Pattern no z-763
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color no 7120, light gray green
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-175-200 g color no 06, light gray green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 – or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for garter st – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

RAGLAN:
On sleeves inc for raglan with YO K twisted on next round, they should not make holes. Inc as follows:
Inc with 1 YO after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker as follows:
Inc every round 0-2-4-0-0-0 times in total.
Inc every other round 22-23-23-27-24-26 times in total.
Inc every 4th round, 0-0-0-0-2-2 times in total (= 22-25-27-27-26-28 times in total) = 48-54-60-60-62-66 sts in total on each sleeve.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. See diagram for correct size.

DECREASE TIP-1:
When working in the round, dec as follows:
Dec as follows at each marker: Work until 3-3-3-5-6-6 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec), 2-2-2-6-8-8 sts in garter st (marker is in the middle of these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).
When working back and forth, dec as follows:
All dec are done from RS.
Work 3-3-3-3-4-4 sts in garter st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec), work pattern as before until 5-5-5-5-6-6 sts remain, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec), finish with 3-3-3-3-4-4 sts in garter st.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeve):
Dec as follows at marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec), K 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a needle ½-1 size larger.
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TUNIC:
Worked in the round, top down. Cast on 80-84-86-92-96-102 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 22-18-20-22-26-28 sts evenly = 102-102-106-114-122-130 sts. On next round work pattern and inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above, as follows: Work A.1a over the first 21-21-21-23-23-25 sts, A.2a over next st, P 1, K 1 (= mid back), P 1, A.3a over next st, A.4a over the next 21-21-21-23-23-25 sts (= back piece), insert 1st marker, K 4-4-6-6-10-10, insert 2nd marker (= sleeve), A.1a over the next 21-21-21-23-23-25 sts, A.2a over next st, P 1, K 1 (= mid front), P 1, A.3a over next st, A.4a over the next 21-21-21-23-23-25 sts (= front piece), insert 3rd marker, K 4-4-6-6-10-10, insert 4th marker (= sleeve). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1a and A.4a have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1b and A.4b vertically.
When A.2a and A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 298-318-362-378-402-430 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 22-24-25-27-28-30 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-9 3/4"-10½"-11"-11 3/4" on the shortest part of piece.

Work next round as follows: Continue with A.1b over the first 22-22-22-24-24-26 sts as before, A.2b over the next 27-29-37-39-44-47 sts, 1 YO, P 1, K 1 (= mid back), P 1, 1 YO, A.3b over the next 27-29-37-39-44-47 sts, A.4b over the next 22-22-22-24-24-26 sts, slip the next 48-54-60-60-62-66 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-10-12-12 sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts (= side marker), A.1b over the next 22-22-22-24-24-26 as before, A.2b over the next 27-29-37-39-44-47 sts, 1 YO, P 1, K 1 (= mid front), P 1, 1 YO, A.3b over the next 27-29-37-39-44-47 sts, A.4b over the next 22-22-22-24-24-26 sts, slip the next 48-54-60-60-62-66 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-10-12-12 sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts (= side marker) = 218-226-258-282-306-326 sts.

Work 1 round pattern, K YOs twisted mid front and mid back, they should not make holes.

Work next round as follows: Continue with * A.1b over the first 22-22-22-24-24-26 sts as before, A.2b over the next 27-29-37-39-44-47 sts, A.5a over next st (inc 1 st in A.5a), P 1, K 1 (= mid back/front), P 1, A.6a over next st (inc 1 st in A.6a), A.3b over the next 27-29-37-39-44-47 sts, A.4b over the next 22-22-22-24-24-26 sts as before, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec), 2-2-2-6-8-8 sts in garter st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total. On this round inc 2 sts mid front and mid back and dec 2 sts in each side of piece, i.e. no of sts is the same. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

Continue in the round as follows:
Round/row 1: Work 1 round/row with pattern as before (= 1 round/row without YO in diagram).
Round/row 2: Work pattern as before and dec 1 st on each side of each side marker – READ DECREASE TIP-1. On this round/row inc 2 sts mid front and mid back and dec 2 sts in each side of piece, i.e. no of sts is the same.
Round/row 3: Work as 1st round/row.
Round/row 4: Work as 2nd round/row.
Round/row 5: Work as 1st round/row.
Round/row 6: Work as 2nd round/row.
Round/row 7: Work as 1st round/row.
Round/row 8: Work pattern as before. On this round/row inc 2 sts mid front and mid back = 4 sts inc in total. Do not dec before and after side markers.

Repeat 1st to 8th round/row until finished measurements. When A.5a and A.6a have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.5b and A.6b vertically. Now work A.7 after A.5b and A.8 before A.6a mid front and mid back until finished measurements, i.e. work inc sts mid front/back in stockinette st. When piece measures 18 cm / 7'' from marker under sleeve, adjust so that last round is 1 round with YO, divide piece at side markers, work front piece and back piece separately until finished measurements.

FRONT PIECE:
(Beg at left side marker. First row = from WS). Work pattern and repeat 1st to 8th round/row as before, but work the outermost 3-3-3-3-4-4 sts in each side of piece in GARTER ST – see explanation above. When piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' from marker under sleeve, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges over all sts AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 2 sts over each cable. Bind off - READ BIND-OFF TIP.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece.

SLEEVE:
= 48-54-60-60-62-66 sts. Work sleeve in stockinette st in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and cast on 6-6-6-10-12-12 sts under sleeve = 54-60-66-70-74-78 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve (i.e. 3-3-3-5-6-6 new sts on each side of marker). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Dec like this approx. every 3½-2½-2-2-2-1½ cm / 1 1/4"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½'' 9-12-14-15-16-17 times in total = 36-36-38-40-42-44 sts. When sleeve measures 43-42-42-41-41-40 cm / 17"-16½"-16½"-16"-16"-15 3/4'' (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges. Bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, DO NOT K YO twisted on next round/row, it should make hole
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, work YO twisted in pattern, it should NOT make hole
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2, psso.
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = beg on this round - see arrow for correct size
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (90)

country flag Hannah Hagen wrote:

Jeg glemte å øke til raglan

16.11.2023 - 21:49

country flag Hannah Hagen wrote:

Jeg er ferdig med A2a og A3a en gang. Det står i oppskriften at det sa skal være 318 m på pinne, men jeg har 218 m. Er dette en skrivefeil?

15.11.2023 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hannah, har du taget 54m ud på hvert ærme og 29 udtagninger 4 gange ifølge diagrammet?

16.11.2023 - 14:31

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo, gibt es ein Video wie ich einen Umschlag links verschränkt stricke ? Habe leider keins gefunden. Danke

21.02.2023 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, in diesem Video sehen Sie nach 01:13, wie man einen Umschlag links verschränkt strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.02.2023 - 18:18

country flag Ruth Norman wrote:

Can drops fabel be used for this pattern

12.01.2023 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Norman, sure, you can replace either Alpaca or Kid-Silk with Fabel but note you still need to work with 2 strands (either Fabel + another yarn group A such as Kid-Silk or Alpaca; or 2 strands Fabel). Use the yarn converter to check the new amount of yarn you will require. Happy knitting!

13.01.2023 - 08:31

country flag Imke wrote:

Guten Tag Auf dem Bild für mich nicht zu erkennen: ist das Modell tailliert oder eher gerade geschnitten? Beste Grüße Imke

13.11.2022 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Imke, siehe die Maßskizze: der Pullover hat eher ein A-Form. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.11.2022 - 09:41

country flag Jane Talboys wrote:

Rows while front and back are 2 in 3 .... I love your patterns but they do challenge even my abilities and I consider myself pretty expert as mostly I work my own patterns

08.09.2022 - 02:48

country flag Aly wrote:

Hoewel dit al een wat ouder patroon is vind ik het nog steeds mooi. ik gebruik wat dunner garen en het patroon laat zich makkelijk aanpassen. gewoon een maatje groter en elke 2e of 3e naald meerderen ,geen enkel probleem. wil dan geen punten onderop maar dat komt ook wel goed. echt tijdloos en flatterend***

14.08.2022 - 19:55

country flag Nina wrote:

Man braucht sehr viel Konzentration, aber der Ergebnis lohnt sich.

01.10.2021 - 08:58

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke den Poncho in der Größe XXL und habe jetzt die Maschen für die Ärmel stillgelegt und mit Muster A5b und A6b angefangen. Wenn ich die Abnahme an der Seite nach Abnahmetip 1 mache und die Seitenmaschen laut Anleitung kraus rechts stricke kann ich Muster A4b aber nicht komplett beenden bzw. A1b beginnen. Ist das korrekt? Da ja in den letzten bzw. Ersten Maschen des Musters abgenommen wird. Oder? Vielen Dank.

17.03.2021 - 14:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, wenn Sie bei der 8. Reihe/Runde abnehmen, soll die Maschen von A.1b/A.4b abnehmen, dh es sind immer die gleichen Anzahl von der Maschen kraus rechts unter beiden Ärmel. dh nach und nach werden immer weniger Maschen vor/nach diesen Krausrechts Maschen in A.1b/A.4b gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.03.2021 - 16:07

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Nein sie haben recht und ich habe es missverstanden. Ich dachte der Pfeil mit Xxl ist das Ende und nicht der Anfang.

19.02.2021 - 12:16