Crystal Bright

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and textured pattern on yoke in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 171-51
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-105
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 1760, light gray purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16"+ 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 – choose diagram for correct size.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 252 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 40) = 6.3. I.e. in this example K approx. every 5th and 6th st tog.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Dec as follows after marker A and C: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).
Dec as follows before marker B and D: K 2 tog before marker (= 1 st dec).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP:
If you want the jumper more narrow in the neck, continue rib in A.5 to desired measurements, but to avoid a wide neck dec evenly in P sections.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 252-276-300-330-366-396 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and K 1 round. Then work rib = K 1/P 2 in the round for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½''. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work pattern according to diagram A.1, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 40-44-52-58-62-64 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 212-232-248-272-304-332 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE After A.1 work in stockinette st. When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½'', insert 4 markers in piece as follows: Insert first marker after the first 31-35-38-44-50-56 sts (= marker A), second marker after the next 44-46-48-48-52-54 sts (= marker B), third marker after the next 62-70-76-88-100-112 sts (= marker C) and fourth marker after the next 44-46-48-48-52-54 sts (= marker D), = 31-35-38-44-50-56 sts remain on needle after last marker. Move the markers upwards when working.
On next round, dec after marker A and C and before marker B and D – Read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Dec like this every 8th round 5-5-5-4-4-4 times in total = 192-212-228-256-288-316 sts. When piece measures 22-22-23-23-23-23 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9"-9"-9'', inc after marker A and C and before marker B and D - READ INCREASE TIP - (= 4 sts inc). Inc like this every 6th-6th-6th-8th-8th-8th round 5-5-5-4-4-4 times in total = 212-232-248-272-304-332 sts. When piece measures 32-34-35-35-35-35 cm / 12½"-13½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4", work next round as follows: bind off 5-5-6-6-7-8 sts for armhole, work stockinette st over the next 96-106-112-124-138-150 sts as before (= back piece), bind off 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts for armhole, work stockinette st over the next 96-106-112-124-138-150 sts as before (= front piece) and bind off the remaining 5-5-6-6-7-8 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles bottom up, switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 46-48-50-52-56-58 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked, switch back to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. K 1 round. Work next round as follows: K 1, P 2, work in stockinette st until 3 sts remain on round, P 2 and K 1. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', inc 1 st on each side of the middle 8 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc a total of 15-19-23-24-25-26 times in Size S: On every 8th round, in size M: On every 6th round, in size L: On every 5th round, in size XL: Alternately on every 4th and 5th round, in size XXL: On every 4th round and in size XXXL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round = 76-86-96-100-106-110 sts. When piece measures 43-43-42-41-39-37 cm / 17"-17"-16½"-16"-15 1/4"-14½" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because longer yoke) bind off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts under sleeve = 66-76-84-88-92-94 sts on needle. Make another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 as body where armholes were bound off (without working them first) = 324-364-392-424-460-488 sts. K 2 rounds and dec AT THE SAME TIME 2-14-14-4-12-12 sts evenly on first round - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 322-350-378-420-448-476 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 23-25-27-30-32-34 repetitions of 14 sts). When A.2 has been worked, there are 276-300-324-360-384-408 sts on needle. K 2 rounds and dec AT THE SAME TIME 24-20-16-24-20-16 sts evenly on first round = 252-280-308-336-364-392 sts. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (= 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions of 28 sts). When A.3 is done (follow diagram for correct size), there are 216-240-264-288-312-336 sts on needle. Now work pattern in the round according to diagram A.4 (= 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions of 24 sts). When A.4 has been worked, there are 180-200-220-240-260-280 sts on needle. K 2 rounds and dec AT THE SAME TIME 0-8-4-12-8-16 sts evenly on first round = 180-192-216-228-252-264 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.5 (choose diagram for correct size = 15-16-18-19-21-22 repetitions of 12 sts). On round marked with arrow in diagram switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 before continuing pattern. When A.5 has been worked, there are 90-96-108-114-126-132 sts on needle – READ KNITTING TIP and bind off with K from RS. Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = K 1 st in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
symbols = 1 BOBBLE: K 1 alternately in front and back of same st until there are 5 sts, turn and work 4 rows in stocking st back and forth over these 5 sts, then: * pass second st on right needle over last st worked *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 1 st remains
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 st dec)
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle, P 2 tog from cable needle (= 3 sts dec)
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle (= 3 sts dec)
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other two so that st is around the last two sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Viktoria wrote:

Synes dette er et veldig fint mønster. Har lagt merke til noe når jeg strikker det selv. I A.2 og A.3, er den fell 2 (ved 1løs,2sammen, løft over). Stemmer det da at dette vil se ut som at maskene krysser, og ikke en rett linje med rettemasker som bildet viser?

06.08.2023 - 15:39

country flag FÜLÖPNÉ D ANNA wrote:

Szia megértettem a leírást, rendben van minden. Köszönöm üdv :Anna

12.04.2023 - 19:50

country flag FÜLÖPNÉ D ANNA wrote:

Szia bocsánat a passzé részéről beszélek. Köszönöm

10.04.2023 - 19:08

country flag FÜLÖPNÉ D ANNA wrote:

Szia az ujjánál a leírás meg a kép nem egyforma vagy a fordítás nem jó

10.04.2023 - 14:39

country flag Tombochan wrote:

Hello I am really enjoying this beautiful pattern. I am on diagram A3 - but although I am following the pattern exactly , I do not get that lovely straight vertical line through the triangles as in the photo of the lace detail. Mine has crosses like in the instructional video on the bottom of this page. How do I achieve that lovely straight vertical stitch like in the photo? Thank you!

16.03.2022 - 00:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tombochan, in the video A.3 is worked back and forth while for the jumper you will work in the round, make sure that you are really following each stitch reading every round from the right towards the left, and that the double decreases in the triangles are in the middle of these triangles at the bottom. Maybe you can show your work to your store (even sending a picture per mail), this might be easier for them to understand. Or show it on our DROPS Workshop where other knitter can help you. Happy knitting!

16.03.2022 - 09:45

country flag Noemi Angélica Martínez wrote:

Que significa 2pjdx ? Gracias

21.09.2021 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Noemi, debería ser 2 pjd (sin x), significa tejer 2 puntos juntos de derecho. Buen trabajo!

24.09.2021 - 09:04

country flag Carola Johansson wrote:

Jag saknar mönsterrapporten med moucherna. Den fanns när jag började sticka men är nu borta?

16.04.2021 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carola. Jag kan se alla 5 diagram här, kanske du behöver uppdatera sidan eller ev. testa en annan webläsare? Mvh DROPS Design

20.04.2021 - 07:27

country flag GenaP wrote:

When knitting pattern A3 , especially after row 8, stitches begin to be displaced and do not fit the pattern either vertically or horizontally (no. of stitches is more than the pattern. I do not knit the black spaces, as indicated). I have carefully checked the total no of stitches and repetitions but the problem keeps coming up. Is there a problem with the pattern? Thank you.

31.03.2021 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Genap, on the 8th round you will increase 4 sts (see star) so that pattern wiil be repeated over 32 sts. On the 12th row you will increase 2 sts and pattern will be repeated over 34 sts. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

06.04.2021 - 11:11

country flag Carola Johansson wrote:

Vad har hänt med mönsterrapport A:4? Längtar efter att få sticka färdigt.

26.02.2021 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carola. Diagram A.4 hittar du precis under diagram A.3 (över A.5). Mvh DROPS Design

01.03.2021 - 09:49

country flag Carola Johansson wrote:

Mönsterrapporten A:4 har helt plötsligt förändrats, massor av varv har försvunnit. Ledsen över att inte kunna fortsätta att sticka oket...

26.02.2021 - 20:10