DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 172-46
DROPS design: Pattern no an-040
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
1100-1100-1300-1400-1500-1700 g colour no 7130, sea green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 7 mm – for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 540: 2 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS! Dec inside 1 st K and 1 edge st in garter st.
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 1 K st and 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 st in garter st and K 1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 K by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

MEASURING TIP-1 (applies to front and back piece):
To get the right proportions on jacket length measurements are done when piece is flat. Because of the weight of the yarn, the piece will be approx. 10 cm longer than measurements in chart.

MEASURING TIP-2 (applies to sleeve):
Because of the weight of the yarn length measurements are done when piece is held up.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 3 sts, cast off 2 sts for buttonhole, work the rest of row. On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 56 and 70 cm
SIZE M: 57 and 72 cm
Size L: 58 and 74 cm
SIZE XL: 59 and 76 cm
Size XXL: 60 and 78 cm
SIZE XXXL: 61 and 80 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 60-64-70-76-82-88 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work in stocking st with 5 sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 18 cm, cast on 1 edge st in each side = 62-66-72-78-84-90 sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 19 cm, dec 1 st in each side (= 2 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP and MEASURING TIP-1! Dec in each side every 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm a total of 6 times = 50-54-60-66-72-78 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, work as follows: Work A.1 over all sts with 1 edge st in garter st in each side (edge st continues in garter st). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work piece until finished measurements in reversed stocking st (edge st in garter st). When piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm, cast off 1 edge st in each side = 48-52-58-64-70-76 sts. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, cast off the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 16-18-21-23-26-29 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 35-37-40-43-46-49 sts (incl 8 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 8 sts in garter st (= band), stocking st until 5 sts remain, work 5 sts in garter st. Continue like this in stocking st and garter st. When piece measures 18 cm, work as follows from RS: 8 sts in garter st, stocking st over the remaining sts, cast on 1 edge st at the end of row (edge st in garter st) = 36-38-41-44-47-50 sts. When piece measures 19 cm, dec in the side as on back piece, dec 6 times in total = 30-32-35-38-41-44 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, work as follows: Work 8 sts in garter st, work A.1 over the remaining sts (edge st in garter st). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work piece until finished measurements in reversed stocking st (continue band and edge st in garter st).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 56-57-58-59-60-61 cm, cast off for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm, cast off 1 edge st in the side = 29-31-34-37-40-43 sts.
When piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm, slip the outermost 9-9-9-10-10-10 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st 2 times = 16-18-21-23-26-29 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

HOOD:
Pick up approx. 46 to 58 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. K 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts - do not inc over bands. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Then work in stocking st with 8 sts in garter st in each side, back and forth over all sts until hood measures approx. 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Work 2 ridges over all sts. Cast off. Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work 3 ridges - then work A.1 over all sts. Work A.1 1 time vertically. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-8 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc) and MEASURING TIP-2. Inc every 5-4-4-3½-3-3 cm 9-10-10-11-11-12 times in total = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. Cast off when piece measures 51-50-49-48-45-44 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves. Sew under arm and side seams inside 1 edge st, finish when 18 cm remain at the bottom of body for vent. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Annalisa wrote:

Buingiorno, come realizzo la maglia rasata rovescia? Lavorando tutti i ferri a rovescio? Grazie

15.02.2024 - 23:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Annalisa, si esatto, è tutto a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

16.02.2024 - 19:16

country flag Angelika wrote:

Biljett är bästa mönstret att sticka en nybörjarkofta när man är van att sticka med vanliga (strump)stickor, fram och tillbaka? Har inte lärt mig tekniken på rundsticka, men vill gärna lära mig, tips på videor tas tacksamt emot. Tacksam för svar.

21.10.2023 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Angelika, du finder alle aktuelle videoer til opskriften nederst på siden: Rundsticka - fram och tillb på rundsticka

24.10.2023 - 09:07

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, bei folgenden Teil eurer Anleitung für das erste vordere Seitenteil hänge ich leider: ...folgt abketten: 2 M 1 x und dann 1 M 2 x = 16-18-21-23-26-29 Schulter-M übrig. Alle M locker abketten, wenn die Arb eine Gesamtlänge von 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm hat... Ich verstehe nicht, was die Anleitung zum abketten 2 M 1x und dann 1M 2x aussagt. Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen! Viele Grüße

26.09.2023 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lisa, für das rechte Vorderteil werden Sie jetzt die Maschen für den Halsauschnitt abketten (die ersten 9 oder 10 Maschen sind schon stillgegelt), so jetzt ketten Sie 2 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten Hin-Reihe (= ab Halsausschnitt) , dann 1 Masche am Anfang der 2 nächsten Hin-Reihe (= 3 Maschen insgesamt) ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.09.2023 - 15:19

country flag Maria wrote:

Hej Kan jeg strikke rygstykket og forstykkerne samtidigt på rundpinden?

18.09.2023 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Plagget blir veldig tungt ved å strikke rundt, men du kan gjøre det. Bare tilpasse maskeantallet ihht kantmaskene, bruk merketråd til fellingene og ta hensyn til / tilpass MÅLETIPS 1 og 2. mvh DROPS Design

26.09.2023 - 13:12

country flag Camilla wrote:

What is the width of the front right/left piece in cm? I am using a different wool and I just want to make sure my measurements are right. Thank you

15.12.2022 - 05:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Camilla, You can find a size chart at the bottom of the pattern, with all the measurements for the different sizes. Happy knitting!

15.12.2022 - 06:47

country flag Catherine Shaw wrote:

Hi. I'm a bit confused at the good. I have CO the hood sts. On the increase row I am not sure what type of stitch should be showing from the right side. Is the garter stitch all along, and the 2 ridges you refer to is 2 ridges of garter stitch all along? Or is it 2 ridges of reverse stockinette on the right side all along with garter stitch at the bands? Is the actual hood in stockinette on the outside with garter stitch at the bands?

12.02.2022 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, you work garter stitch in the bands and the rest in stocking stitch. In the last rows, you work the last 2 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches. Happy knitting!

13.02.2022 - 19:49

country flag Catherine Shaw wrote:

Hello. I'm reading through the pattern, back piece and I am stuck at the instructions in the waist are: Work A.1 over all sts with 1 edge st in garter st in each side (edge st continues in garter st). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work piece until finished measurements in reversed stockinette st (edge st in garter st). Is this telling me to do 1 ridge of garter st before doing the reverse stockinette? In the picture it looks like more than 1 ridge at the waist band,

09.01.2022 - 12:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Shaw, for A.1, you will work, starting from RS: K1 from RS, K1 from WS (= 1 ridge), 3 rows stocking stitch, K1 from WS( = 2nd ridge), 2 rows stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

10.01.2022 - 08:50

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, Ma question est la suivante: si je souhaite utiliser des pelotes du groupe C, combien de pelotes dois-je acheter? Dois-je prévoir le double (étant donné qu'il y aura deux fils)? Merci!

28.12.2021 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, cela depend de la qualite choisie. Utilisez notre convertisseur ICI. Bon tricot!

29.12.2021 - 12:10

country flag Jackie wrote:

I understand. Thank you for taking the time to get back to me with an explanation. Blessings, Chaplain Jackie

13.07.2021 - 17:21

country flag Jackie wrote:

I really want to make this sweater. I have done the math for the yarn required; therefore needing ~1470 yards. I have 1360 yards of a comparable yarn. I really don't want the hood. 1. Approximately how much yardage is needed to make the hood? 2. Without making the hood, would I have enough yarn to make a shawl collar? 3, Or, enough yarn to just have the border go up and around the neck? Help will be greatly appreciated!

12.07.2021 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, please understand that these patterns are made available to support DROPS yarns (you can use our yarn converter for substituting DROPS yarns), and we cannot help you with other brands, also, we are sorry, but it is impossible to modify and recalculate our patterns (and yarn amounts) to each individual request. Happy Stitching!

13.07.2021 - 01:48