DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Mimosa Top

Crochet DROPS top with lace pattern and fan pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-1282
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-097
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250-250-300-350-350-400 g colour no 2110, wheat

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.

CROCHET INFO-1:
On every tr row replace first tr with 3 ch.
On every dc row replace first dc with 1 ch.
Beg every round with tr with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.
Beg every round with dc with 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.

CROCHET INFO-2:
Work back and forth but beg every row with tr with 3 ch, work piece tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of row. Turn piece.
Work back and forth but beg every row with dc with 1 ch, work piece tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of row. Turn piece.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 5 tr remain before markers in the side, work the next 2 tr tog, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work the next 2 tr tog, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work the next 2 tog (= 3 tr dec at each marker = 6 tr dec in total).

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 4 tr remain before markers in the side, work 2 tr in next tr, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work 2 tr in next tr, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work 2 tr in next tr (= 3 tr in at each marker = 6 tr inc in total).
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TOP:
Work top down, back and forth in parts, then work them tog.

BACK PIECE:
RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work first row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr) - READ CROCHET INFO-1, 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.4a over the first 4 tr, repeat A.5a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.6a over the last 2 tr. When A.4a to A.6a have been worked 1 time vertically (= last row is from WS). Put piece aside and work left shoulder. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work first row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.1a over the first 2 tr, repeat A.2a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.3a over the last 4 tr. When A.1a to A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, work left shoulder tog with right shoulder from RS as follows:

BACK PIECE:
SIZE S-M:
Work A.1b over the first 2 tr on left shoulder, repeat A.2b over the next 18-21 tr, 1 tr in last tr on left shoulder, work 39-39 ch for neck, work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr on right shoulder, repeat A.2b over the next 18-21 tr and 1 tr in last tr over right shoulder as before = 42-48 tr and 39-39 ch on row. On next row work pattern as before but in ch work 1 tr in every ch = 81-87 tr.

SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work A.1a over the first 2 tr on left shoulder, repeat A.2a over the next 24-24-27-30 tr, 1 tr in last tr on left shoulder, work 39-45-45-45 ch for neck, work 1 tr in first tr on right shoulder, repeat A.5a over the next 24-24-27-30 tr and A.6a over the last 2 tr on right shoulder as before = 54-54-60-66 tr and 39-45-45-45 ch on row. On next row work pattern as before but in ch work 1 tr in every ch = 93-99-105-111 tr. When A.1a to A.6a have been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from RS: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, repeat A.2b until 1 tr remains, finish with 1 tr in last tr. Repeat A.2b 1-1-2-2 times in total.

ALL SIZES:
= 81-87-93-99-105-111 tr. Work as follows from RS: A.7c over the first 2 tr, repeat A.8c over the next 72-78-84-90-96-102 tr (= 12-13-14-15-16-17 times in total in width), finish with A.9c over the last 7 tr. When A.7c to A.9c have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.7 over A.7c, A.8 over A.8c and A.9 over A.9c vertically.

AT THE SAME TIME inc as follows in SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
When piece measures 17-18-16-16 cm, inc 1 tr in each side of piece by working 2 tr in first and last tr (= 2 tr inc). Repeat inc on every row 1-1-5-6 more times (= 4-4-12-14 tr inc in total). Work the inc tr into pattern. After inc piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22 cm.

ALL SIZES:
When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm – adjust so that next row is from RS and is a row with tr (in diagram A.8), fasten off. Put piece aside and work front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work first row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.1a over the first 2 tr, repeat A.2a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.3a over the last 4 tr. Repeat A.1a to A.3a vertically 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in total. Then work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a. Repeat A.1b to A.3b vertically 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total. Work A.1c over A.1b, A.2c over A.2b and A.3c over A.3b. Work until last row in diagram A.1c-A.3c remains. Put piece aside and work left shoulder.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work first row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.4a over the first 4 tr, repeat A.5a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.6a over the last 2 tr. Repeat A.4a to A.6a vertically 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in total. Then work A.4b over A.4a, A.5b over A.5a and A.6b over A.6a. Repeat A.4b to A.6b vertically 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total. Work A.4c over A.4b, A.5c over A.5b and A.6c over A.6b. On last row in diagram A.4c to A.6c work left shoulder tog with right shoulder from WS as follows: Work last row of A.6c to A.4c as before over left shoulder, work 23-23-23-29-29-29 ch for neck, work last row of A.3c to A.1c as before = 58-64-70-70-76-82 tr and 23-23-23-29-29-29 ch (= 81-87-93-99-105-111 sts in total).

Work as follows from RS: A.7c over the first 2 tr, repeat A.8c over the next 72-78-84-90-96-102 tr (= 12-13-14-15-16-17 times in total in width), finish with A.9c over the last 7 tr. When A.7c to A.9c have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.7 over A.7c, A.8 over A.8c and A.9 over A.9c vertically.

AT THE SAME TIME inc as follows in SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
When piece measures 17-18-16-16 cm, adjust according to back piece, inc 1 tr in each side of piece by working 2 tr in first and last tr (= 2 tr inc). Repeat inc on every row 1-1-5-6 more times (= 4-4-12-14 tr inc in total). Work the inc tr into pattern. After inc piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22 cm.

ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm, adjust according to back piece.

Now work parts tog from front piece to back piece from RS AT THE SAME TIME in SIZE M-XL-XXXL inc 6 tr evenly on row. Work as follows: Work A.7-A.9 over front piece as before, work 9-9-11-11-15-16 loose ch for armhole (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts = armhole), work A.7-A.9 over back piece as before, work 9-9-11-11-15-16 loose ch for armhole (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts = armhole), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of row - READ CROCHET INFO-2 = 162-180-194-212-234-256 tr and 9-9-11-11-15-16 ch in each side of piece (= 180-198-216-234-264-288 sts in total).

BODY:
Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Leave marker in piece, move markers upwards when working.
Repeat A.8 over all sts (= 30-33-36-39-44-48 times in total in width). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 4 cm, adjust so that next row is with tr, dec 3 tr at each marker in the side – READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec approx. every 6 cm 2 more times = 162-180-198-216-246-270 tr on row. NOTE: Every time you dec, repeat A.8 1 time less in width. When piece measures 18 cm from marker, adjust so that next row is a row with tr, inc 3 tr at each marker – READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc approx. every 3 cm 3 more times = 186-204-222-240-270-294 tr. NOTE: Every time you inc, repeat A.8 1 more time in width. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm from marker, adjust so that last row is a row with tr from WS, work as follows on next row from RS: Repeat A.8a over all sts (= 31-34-37-40-45-49 times in total in width). Fasten off when A.8a has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck as follows (beg mid back): Work 1 dc in first tr, * 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck, make sure to avoid a tight edge, adjust to finish with 1 dc in last tr. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = ch

symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc between 2 tr
symbols = dc around ch
symbols = tr in st
symbols = tr around ch
symbols = first row is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next row should be worked in st
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Fia Älander wrote:

"Virka 1 st i var och en av de första 2 st, upprepa A.2b tills det återstår 1 st, avsluta med 1 st i sista st. Upprepa A.2b totalt 1-1-2-2 ggr på höjden." Ska jag ha virkat A.2 b totalt 2 eller 3 ggr i stl.XXL?

05.09.2022 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Fia, du skall ha virkat A.2 b totalt 2 ggr :)

07.09.2022 - 09:20

country flag Gea wrote:

Aanvullend voor de duidelijkheid. Ik maak maat XXL, dan heb ik vierbtoeren verschil tussen voorben achterpand..

03.08.2022 - 16:26

country flag Gea wrote:

Tip: look in pattern 1285. It is different about A7b A8b and A9b. They use there A7c, A8c A9c. Seems better to me.

03.08.2022 - 16:24

country flag Gea wrote:

Ik weet niet goed hoe ik beide panden op dezelfde hoogte in het zelfde patroon moet krijgen. Als het de beschrijving precies volg, zit er vier toeren verschil tussen achter en voorpand. Als je ze dan bij 22 cm aan elkaar maakt , heb je een onregelmatigheid in het patroon. Hoe kan ik dat oplossen? Liefst in het gedeelte waar ik net de schouders aan elkaar heb gemaakt. Ik hoor het graag.

03.08.2022 - 16:21

country flag Gea wrote:

Ik denk dat er een fout in het patroon zit. Als je de rechter en Iinkerschouder aan elkaar gehaakt hebt bij voorpand en achterkant, dan wordt aangegeven dat A7b, A8b, A9b gehaakt moet worden. Dat is raar. b delen staan niet aangegeven in het patroon. In een eerdere reactie schrijft u ook dat b niet gehaakt wordt. Ik denk dat het daar A7c,, A8c en A9c moet zijn. Dat zie je ook staan in patroon 1285. Klopt het wat ik denk?

03.08.2022 - 16:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gea,

Het moet inderdaad A.7c tot en met A.9c zijn in plaats van b. Dus je had gelijk dat er een fout in zit. Het is nu aangepast. Hopelijk kun je nu verder.

06.08.2022 - 11:06

country flag Katharina wrote:

Sehr geehrtes Drops-Team, So, wie ich die Anleitung verstehe, ist man beim Zusammenhäkeln von Vorder- und Rückenteil an unterschiedlichen Stellen des Musters A7-A9, da dieses Muster im Vorderteil ja später beginnt. Wird dies irgendwie ausgeglichen, oder bleiben beide Teile im Muster getrennt? Zudem scheint es, als müsse man mitten im Muster zunehmen. Ist dies korrekt und wenn ja, wo nimmt man da am besten zu? Liebe Grüße

27.04.2021 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, Rückenteil häkeln Sie bis die Arbeit 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm misst (= daran angepassen, dass die nächste R eine Hin-R ist und dass es eine R mit Stb ist (in Diagramm A.8) ) - beim Vorderteil häkeln Sie bis 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm - an das Rückenteil angepassen, dh, die nächste Reihe muss genau die selbe beim beiden Teilen sein. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

28.04.2021 - 07:48

country flag Therese Lahn wrote:

Har litt problemer med å forstå dette med at man avslutter med kj i 3.luftmaske om arbeidet skal hekles frem og tilbake... (skulder bakstykk) vil det si at siste stav/fm på omgangen erstattes med en kjedemaske i 3.luftmaske fra starten på raden under?

03.02.2021 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Therese. Nei, du hekler radene sammen med 1 kjedemaske i masken p begynnelsen av raden. Det hekles frem og tilbake, men arbeidet hekles sammen bak, slik at det kan se ut som om man hekler rundt. Om du starter med 3 luftmasker på begynnelsen av raden (erstatter 1. stav), så skal det avsluttes med 1 kjedemaske i 3. luftmasken på begynnelsen av raden (= arbeidet er heklet sammen). Snu arbeidet og start med 3 luftmasker (erstatter 1. stav), hekle raden ut og avslutt raden med 1 kjedemaske i 3. luftmaske på starten av raden ( arbeidet er heklet sammen). Snu arbeidet og fortsett på samme måte. God Fornøyelse!

08.02.2021 - 13:05

country flag Victoria Amundsen wrote:

Jeg har akkurat heklet sammen venstre skulder med høyre skulder på forstykket slik: «På siste rad i diag A.4c til A.6c hekles venstre skulder sammen med høyre skulder fra vrangen slik: Hekle siste rad av A.6c til A.4c som før over venstre skulder, hekle 23-23-23-29-29-29 lm til hals, hekle siste rad av A.3c til A.1c som før». Men når jeg så snur og skal hekle igjen første rad i A7c til A9c fra retten, stemmer ikke mønster. Det ser ut som jeg skal hekle A9c-A7c. Hvor gjør jeg feil?

05.06.2020 - 20:34

country flag Ophelia wrote:

Wenn es beim Rückenteil heißt man soll: Wenn A.7c bis A.9c 1 x in der Höhe gehäkelt wurden, A.7 über A.7c, A.8 über A.8c und A.9 über A.9c in der Höhe wdh; Soll dann das komplette Muster von A7, A8, A9 bis A7c, A8c, A9c in der Höhe gehäkelt werden?

15.08.2019 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ophelia, ja genau, nach dem A.7c bis A.8c einmal in der Höhe gehäkelt wurde, häkeln Sie A.7 von der 1. Reihe (= die 1. Reihe in A.7a). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.08.2019 - 15:21

country flag Carmen González wrote:

Espero terminarlo satisfactoriamente, en general creo que deberían hacer patrones donde las blusas no traigan costuras laterales. Los sigo y he tejido un par de bolsos y sombreros, voy por mi primer prenda

27.06.2019 - 06:22