DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Acqua di Mare

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st with wave pattern and lace edge in ”Fabel” or "Flora".

DROPS Extra 0-1241
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-331
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Approx. 50 cm measured along mid sts, and approx. 150 cm measured at the top.
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 100, off white
50 g colour no 914, shoreline

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 01, off white
50 g colour no 13, dcenim blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS 2 DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm – for lace edge

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

STRIPES:
* 6 row off white Fabel or Flora, 6 row shoreline Fabel or denim blue Flora *, repeat from *-*.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts. Work top down.
Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with off white Fabel or Flora. Insert 1 marker in the 4th st on needle (= mid st) and move marker upwards when working.
Work as follows: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1A over 1 st, 1 st in stocking st (= mid st), A.1B over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st = 11 sts. Continue with A.1A and A.1B on each side of mid st (work mid st in stocking st until finished measurements). When diagram has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 35 sts on needle (i.e. 17 sts on each side of mid st). Continue in garter st and with inc the same way until there are 275 sts on needle (piece now measures approx. 27 cm along mid st and 108 cm along the edge at the top). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
Then work STRIPES - see explanation above - while AT THE SAME TIME work pattern according to diagram A.2 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.2A over 2 sts, work A.2B over the next 130 sts (= 10 repetitions of 13 sts), A.2C over 2 sts, 3 sts in stocking st (= the middle of these 3 = mid st), A.2D over 2 sts, A.2B over the next 130 sts (= 10 repetitions of 13 sts), A.2E over 2 sts and 2 edge st in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When entire A.2B has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 407 sts on needle (i.e. 203 sts on each side of mid st).

Work next row as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.2A over 2 sts, work A.2F over the next 187 sts (= 11 repetitions of 17 sts), continue to work A.2C as before (i.e on this row work 11 sts stocking st, 1 YO), 3 sts stocking st (= mid st), continue A.2D as before (i.e on this row make 1 YO, then work 11 sts stocking st), work A.2F over the next 187 sts (= 11 repetitions of 17 sts), work A.2E over 2 sts and end with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this. When A.2C/A2D have been inc to 17 sts there is room for 1 more repetition of A.2F on each side of the 3 mid st (A.2C/A.2D continues as before with 1 YO on each side of the 3 mid st). When 7 stripes in total have been worked, there are 475 sts on needle and last stripe is off white, keep sts on needle.

LACE EDGE:
Work a lace edge along edge at the bottom of shawl. Fasten lace edge to RS of shawl by working the 2 first/next sts from needle on shawl K tog with first st on lace edge as follows: Cast on 12 sts on double pointed needle size 3.5 mm with shoreline Fabel or denim blue Flora and work pattern back and forth on needle according to diagram A.3 – AT THE SAME TIME on at beg of every row from RS on lace edge work the two first/next st that are on needle on shawl K tog with first st in A.3. Continue like this along the entire edge on shawl but over the middle 9 sts on shawl work first st in A.3 tog with just one st from the shawl (i.e. instead of tog with two sts from the shawl) – this is done to avoid the tip on shawl from curving.

Cut the yarn and fasten. Moisten piece and place it to form according to measurements.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS

symbols = K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog (both from RS and from WS)
symbols = 1 double YO between 2 sts, on next row drop one YO off the needle and K the other YO
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row K YO twisted
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row K YO
symbols = 1 double YO between 2 sts, K 2 tog
symbols = cast off 1 st
symbols = work the two first/next sts on shawl K tog with this st
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Pilar wrote:

No me salen las cuentas para el borde. Si hay 475 puntos y los 9 centrales se hacen en 9 pasadas de ida quedan 466 que se harán en 233 pasadas, dos en cada ida. En total 233+9=242, pero siendo 4 pasadas de ida por repetición quedarian 60,5 repeticiones. Vamos que me sobrarán 2 puntos tras 60 repeticiones del borde.

10.11.2022 - 07:12

country flag Merel wrote:

Na 3 strepen heb ik 407 steken op de naald staan. Na 7 strepen heb ik 477 steken: 2 kantsteken, A2A 25 steken (4e streep 5 meerseringen, streep 5-7 6 meerseringen = 2+5+6+6+6=25), A2F 204 steken (12x17), A2C 6 steken (Na 5 strepen 17 steken, nog 2 strepen met totaal 6 meerseringen daarna), 3 steken tricot, A2D 6 steken, A2F 204 steken, A2E 25 steken, 2 kantsteken. Wat heb ik verkeerd gedaan?

08.08.2022 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Merel,

Door het breien van A.2a en A.2c en A.2d en A.2e meerder je steeds 52 steken over 18 naalden. Na 3 strepen (van 12 naalden per streep, dus 2 maal 18 naalden) zou je er 2x52= 104 steken bij moeten hebben en dat is in totaal 379 steken. Ik ben bang dat er een foutje in geslopen is en dat met 1 streep 6 naalden naturel of 6 naalden shoreline bedoeld wordt. Volgens mij kom je dan meer in de buurt.

14.08.2022 - 20:58

country flag Anita wrote:

Ad avslutning av blondekant. Her står ingenting om felling, bare klipp og fest. Jeg vil at sjalet skal ha tydelige spisser i begge hjørner og det blir det ikke med dette mønsteret. Vennl forklar hvordan avslutte slutten på blondekanten. På forhånd takk for raskt svar da det haster.

19.01.2021 - 20:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Når du har strikket ferdig blondekanten til sjalet, feller du bare de 12 maskene som vanlig. Se evnt hjelpevideoen: For å få markerte spisser på sjalet kan du fukte sjalet og legg det i form etter mål og feste spissene med nåler, se evnt video: Fukt arbeidet og legg det i form etter mål. mvh DROPS design

27.01.2021 - 13:44

country flag Jannie Wouters wrote:

Wat betekent : A.1B over 1steek , onderaan blz. 2. Het woord over snap ik hier niet. Bij de tekenverklaring staat : een dubbele omslag TUSSEN 2 steken. Dus waar moeten de dubbele omslagen. Voor of na de steek??, over snap ik niet

25.11.2020 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jannie,

Het betekent dat je over (in) de eerstvolgende steek op de naald A.1B breit. De eerste steek van A.1B is een dubbele omslag, 1 recht en nog eens een dubbele omslag. Dus de dubbele omslagen moeten zowel voor als na de steek.

26.11.2020 - 09:28

country flag Ula wrote:

Bardzo dziekuje. Film na pewno sie przyda aczkolwiek powiem ze poradziłam sobie. Najpierw polecam wykonac probke taśmy. Potem drut z nabranymi oczkami dać równolegle do szala na drucie na prawej stronie tak by sie stykały. Nastepnie wkłuć prawy drut w 1sze o.oraz 2 pierwsze szala przeciagnac nitke. Zdjąc 1sze 3 oczka z drutu. Wykonac rzad 1szy a potem 2gi. Powtarzac czynnosc z drutami przy rzedach nieparzystych. Powodzenia

30.06.2020 - 09:31

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ulu! Super, a film też już jest :) Pozdrawiamy!

03.07.2020 - 21:33

country flag Ula wrote:

Prosze pomóżcie jak przerobic razem o.brzegu z 2 oczkami szala. Wydaje sie ze sporo osób ma z tym problem. Nie zostawiajcie swoich fanów bez pomocy..

29.06.2020 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Nie zostawimy Ulu :) Serdecznie pozdrawiamy!

29.06.2020 - 15:38

country flag Ula wrote:

Witam serdecznie. Bardzo proszę o wytłumaczenie jak przerabiać kwadracik z kółkiem w ażurowym brzegu czyli dokładnie jak łączyć brzeg z szalem. Również ie rozumiem jak przerobić duży kŕzyżyk. Będę badzo wdzięczna za pomoc.

28.06.2020 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ulu, już zgłaszałam prośbę o nagranie filmiku jak to zrobić, bo nie ty pierwsza masz z tym problem. Czekamy na zamieszczenie. Pozdrawiamy!

29.06.2020 - 15:37

country flag Ula wrote:

Witam serdecznie. Mam pytanie: w miejscu gdzie zaczynamy przerabiac schematy A2A, A2B,A2C,D iE i kiedy mowa o 3 o.środkowych: czy od tego momentu te 3 oczka przerabiamy dżersejem bez narzutów po obu stronach oczka środkowego? Rozumiem ze gdyby byly tam narzuty to chusta bedzie nabierala innego ksztaltu bo schematy A2C i A2D juz uwzgledniaja narzuty. Jednak bez nich zmienia sie srodek symetrii szala zamiast podwójny narzut-o.ś-podw.narzut, sa 3 oczka dżersejem? Prosze o pomoc

26.06.2020 - 01:47

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ulu, te 3 oczka środkowe będą odtąd przerabiane dżersejem, bez narzutów z każdej strony oczka środkowego. Pozdrawiamy!

29.06.2020 - 16:04

country flag Ulrika Nielsen wrote:

Jag såg denna sjal uppstickad i en butik o föll direkt. Skaffade garnet o började sticka. Ganska snart knöt sig min hjärna o det tog flera månader att göra den. Nu har jag stickat 7 stycken - och återkommer gång på gång! Älskar mönstret!!

22.01.2020 - 22:09

country flag Katarzyna Górska wrote:

Nie rozumiem w jaki sposob jest robiony ten ażurowy brzeg. Szczerze to video bardzo mi pomoże w zrozumieniu tej metody wykończenia szala.

17.07.2019 - 18:17