DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Charlotte Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern, raglan and short sleeves in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 168-9
DROPS design: Pattern no w-588
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 100, light wash

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm/US 8.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows from RS: Beg 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows from WS: Beg 3 sts before marker:
P 2 twisted tog, P 2 (marker is between these sts), P 2 tog.

KNITTING TIP:
If knitting gauge is incorrect in height and the knitting is too tight, the raglan dec will be too short and the armholes too small. This can be adjusted by working 1 extra row without dec evenly spaced between dec.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 13, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm
SIZE M: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41 and 50 cm
SIZE L: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 52 cm
SIZE XL: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 45 and 54 cm
SIZE XXL: 4, 12, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm
SIZE XXXL: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40, 49 and 58 cm
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 155-171-183-199-219-239 sts (includes 5 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows from RS: 5 sts in garter st, P 2, A.1 (= 5 sts), P 2, stockinette st over the next 48-56-62-70-73-83 sts, * P 2, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total, P 2, A.2 (= 13 sts), P 2, *A.1, P 2,* repeat from *-* 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total, stockinette st over the next 48-56-62-70-73-83 sts, P 2, A.1, P 2, and 5 sts in garter st. The 5 sts in garter st in each side = bands. Work bands in garter st until finished measurements. Continue pattern like this. Dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Insert 2 markers in the piece; 41-45-48-52-57-62 sts in from each side (back piece = 73-81-87-95-105-115 sts). When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', dec 1 st on each side of markers, repeat dec every 3 cm / 1'' 4 more times - READ DECREASE TIP = 135-151-163-179-199-219 sts. When piece measures 21 cm / 8 1/4'', inc 1 st on each side of each marker, repeat inc every 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3"-3" 2 more times = 147-163-175-191-211-231 sts. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'' (on a row from RS), bind off 6 sts in each side (= 3 sts on each side of marker in each side), work the remaining sts as before = 135-151-163-179-199-219 sts.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Cast on 52-56-60-62-66-70 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST- see explanation above, then work in stockinette st until piece measures 3 cm / 1''. Now bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 46-50-54-56-60-64 sts. Make another sleeve edge the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off (without working them first) = 227-251-271-291-319-347 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue in garter st and with pattern as before while at the same time on next row from RS dec for raglan in each of the 4 transitions between body and sleeves (i.e. 8 dec per dec-row) - READ DECREASE TIP AND KNITTING TIP! Dec every other row 16-16-16-17-18-18 times and then every row 0-2-4-4-5-7 times. After all dec are done, 99-107-111-123-135-147 sts remain on needle. Work 2 ridges while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 6-11-12-22-31-40 sts evenly = 93-96-99-101-104-107 sts. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 4 tog
symbols = K 4 twisted tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Cristina Borghetti wrote:

Buongiorno, Le diminuzioni del corpo sono 20. Vanno distribuite uniformemente su tutta la lunghezza? Grazie

23.05.2023 - 16:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, le prime diminuzioni si lavorano quando il lavoro misura 5 cm, poi ogni 3 cm altre 4 volte. Buon lavoro!

23.05.2023 - 21:59

country flag Lori wrote:

I have tried five times to get the sleeve onto the body. Please help me!!! I don’t want to waste all my work and time and not finish this cardigan. I’m trying to put the sleeve on from the wrong side and it just is not working. Do I need to slip it on to left needle first??? HELP 😳

02.09.2022 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lori, you need to have all of the pieces in the same row of the pattern and ended on the wrong side. Now, start working with the left front and in the space cast off for the armhole you put the stitches of one of the sleeves, and work on the wrong side. Next, work the back piece and repeat in the other armhole as for the first sleeve. Finish working the right front piece. Happy knitting!

04.09.2022 - 22:55

country flag Susy wrote:

Help!!! I have almost finished the Charlotte cardigan in Paris colour 100 but can't find dyelot 695 anywhere as I need 2 more balls to finish.

19.06.2022 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susy, you may ask on our social media or contact our DROPS stores to see if anyone has any stock of this dye lot left. We don't have any information regarding the stock of specific dye lots. Happy knitting!

19.06.2022 - 16:58

country flag Ingrid Ehret wrote:

Hall?o, möchte gerne das Modell stricken, möchte dies aber mit einem dünneren Garn stricken, kann ich dann einfach eine größere Größe nehmen, passt dies dann auch, normal habe ich L jetzt würde ich XXL nehmen. Passt dies dann auch

27.05.2022 - 08:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ehret, wenn Sie ein dünneres Garn benutzen, wird Ihre Maschenprobe unterschiedlich in der Breite sowie in der Höhe, dann sollen Sie die ganze Anleitung neu anpassen - Hier lesen Sie mehr. Am besten suchen Sie sich ein Modell mit der gewünschten Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.05.2022 - 09:13

country flag Maria Winter wrote:

Hei , Bilde som viser cardigan i oppskriften, i hvilken størrelse er den strikket? Eg vil prøve ã strikke A1 de 2 ganger som angitt p størrelse xxl og xxxl. Eg strikker st. L. Går d an? vh Marij

09.05.2022 - 18:43

country flag Susy wrote:

I echo the question of another knitter. I cannot for the life of me see how to add the sleeves to the Charlotte cardigan nor do I understand the term in the pattern ' Now cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve'. Please can you clarify and please, please do a video showing how to add the sleeves as I think we would all benefit!

24.03.2022 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susy, to cast off the 6 stitches mid under sleeve, work the last round as follows from marker mid at the beginning of the round: cast off 3 sts, work as before until 3 sts remain, cast off the last 3 sts (= 6 sts cast off mid under sleeve). When working yoke, slip the sleeves on the same circular needle as front and back pieces, the 6 sts cast off on sleeve towards the 6 sts cast off on body - see video. Happy knitting!

24.03.2022 - 11:52

country flag Jane wrote:

I am really struggling to fit the sleeve into the Charlotte cardigan. I have watched the video but it is not helpful to me. I am trying to fit the sleeve in on a wrong side row. I can’t see how it can be otherwise. I cast off on the r/s and then place sleeve on ws. But it looks like the sleeve will be back to front. Please clarify for me. Many thanks.

11.03.2022 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jane, for the sleeve, you need to cast off the 6 stitches under the arm, on the right side. Then you put all pieces together on the wrong side. First the front, then the sleeve, then the back and the other front. So, when looking at them from the right side, all pieces will be on the right side. Happy knitting!

11.03.2022 - 18:17

country flag Susy wrote:

In the Charlotte cardigan diagram A1, does it read K2 tog, YO, YO, S1? As 'S1 st as if to K, K1, psso', is a confusing way to explain it. Thank you.

11.02.2022 - 01:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Susy, Row 3 is: Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, then slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (this is more than just slipping 1 stitch). Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

11.02.2022 - 07:56

country flag Lori wrote:

I want to make this cardigan about two inches longer in the size XXL. How much additional yarn should i get and how should I adjust the pattern to start as well as the button hole placement?

12.07.2021 - 05:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lori, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, please contact your yarn store (even per mail or telephone) for any individual assistance, thank you for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

12.07.2021 - 08:13

country flag Sins Carmen wrote:

Je ne trouve pas les diagrammes de ce modèle ??

16.03.2021 - 13:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sins, nous rencontrons actuellement des problèmes de chargement des images sur notre site et faisons notre maximum pour tout remettre en ordre le plus vite possible. Merci pour votre compréhension et patience.

16.03.2021 - 14:42