DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Mercy

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with leaf pattern, worked top down in “Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 168-7
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-056
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-700-750-800 g colour no 08, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP (applies to inc for armhole on body):
All inc are done from RS. Inc inside 2 edge sts in garter st by picking up yarn between 2 sts, slip yarn on needle and K yarn twisted to avoid hole (= 1 st inc).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
All dec are done from RS! Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 button hole = beg from WS on right front piece and K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for first buttonhole on first row from WS after neck inc is done. Then dec the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes every 7-7½-8-7-7½-8 cm downwards.
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth on circular needle.
Beg with back piece, then work front pieces before slipping all parts tog and working in one piece until finished measurements. Work sleeves separately, top down.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-20-21-24-26-29 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Light. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, P from WS until 2 sts remain on row and finish with K 2 (= edge sts towards armhole). Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= edge sts against armhole), 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stocking st, then work A.1 over the next 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 2 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from RS. Work back from WS as before and then cast on 34 new sts for neck at the end of next row from RS = 52-55-56-59-61-64 sts on needle. Put piece aside and work right shoulder back.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on as on left shoulder back and K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, K the first 2 sts (= edge sts towards armhole) and P the rest of row. Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts), work 6-0-1-4-6-0 stocking st and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st towards armhole. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 2 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of row from WS = 18-21-22-25-27-30 sts on needle. Work 1 row pattern back from RS.

YOKE AT THE BACK:
Slip sts from left and right shoulder on to same circular needle size 4 mm = 70-76-78-84-88-94 sts on needle. Continue pattern back and forth over all sts with 2 edge sts in garter st and 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stocking st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION.
When piece measures 15-16-15-15-15-14 cm, work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stocking st, work A.2A one time, work A.2B over the next 45-63-63-63-63-81 sts (= 5-7-7-7-7-9 repetitions of 9 sts), work 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stocking st and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.2 has been worked one time vertically, there are 77-85-87-93-97-105 sts on needle. Continue with A.3A over A.2A and A.3B over A.2B the same way (there is now 1 st stocking st more between each eyelet row). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-17-17-17-16 cm, inc 1 st for armhole in each side – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 2-2-5-7-8-11 times in total – NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st. On first row from RS after last inc cast on 2-2-3-3-5-7 new sts at the end of row for armhole. Repeat on next row from WS = 85-93-103-113-123-141 sts on needle. Put pieces aside and work front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-20-21-24-26-29 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, P from WS until 2 sts remain on row and finish with K 2 (= edge sts towards armhole). Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= edge sts against armhole), 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stocking st, then work A.1 over the next 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 5-5-5-7-7-7 cm, cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from RS as follows: Cast on 1 st 4 times, 2 sts 3 times and 13 sts 1 time = 40-43-44-47-49-52 sts. Continue the pattern with 2 edge sts in garter st towards the armhole and 5 band sts in garter st towards mid front (there is now room for 3-4-4-4-4-5 repetitions of A.1). Remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above.
When piece measures 15-16-15-15-15-14 cm, work next row as follows from RS: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stocking st, work A.2B over the next 27-36-36-36-36-45 sts (= 3-4-4-4-4-5 repetitions of 9 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st towards mid front. When A.2B has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 43-47-48-51-53-57 sts on needle. Continue with A.3B over A.2B the same way (there is now 1 st stocking st more between each eyelet row). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-17-17-17-16 cm, inc 1 st for armhole in the side – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 2-2-5-7-8-11 times in total. On first row from WS after last inc cast on 2-2-3-3-5-7 new sts at the end of row for armhole = 47-51-56-61-66-75 sts on needle. Put the piece aside and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on as on right front piece. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, K the first 2 sts (= edge sts towards armhole) and P the rest of row. Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts), work 6-0-1-4-6-0 stocking st and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st towards armhole. Continue pattern like this and continue as on right front piece but cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from WS (instead of every row from RS). Work pattern according to diagram A.2C (instead of A.2B) and continue pattern according to A.3C (instead of A.3B). Inc for armhole from RS and then cast on 2-2-3-3-5-7 new sts for armhole at the end of next row from RS. Work 1 row from WS as before.

BODY:
Now work all pieces tog from RS on circular needle size 4 mm as follows: Work sts from left front piece (= 47-51-56-61-66-75 sts), insert 1 marker, work sts from back piece (= 85-93-103-113-123-141 sts), insert 1 marker and work sts from right front piece (= 47-51-56-61-66-75 sts) = 179-195-215-235-255-291 sts on needle - NOW MEASURE FROM HERE!
Continue back and forth with pattern according to diagram A.3 and stocking st as before and with 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec in each side every 2-2-2½-2½-3-3½ cm 7-6-6-6-6-5 times in total = 151-171-191-211-231-271 sts.
When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm (entire piece measures approx. 33-35-37-39-41-43 cm from shoulder), remove the marker threads. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work A.4A (= 11 sts), repeat A.4B over the next 120-140-160-180-200-240 sts (= 12-14-16-18-20-24 repetitions of 10 sts), work A.4C (= 10 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st (sts worked in A.4 will now match with eyelets in A.3 on front and back piece). Continue pattern back and forth like this and inc as shown in diagram. When A.4 has been worked, there are 207-235-263-291-319-375 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, A.5A (= 15 sts), repeat A.5B over the next 168-196-224-252-280-336 sts (= 12-14-16-18-20-24 repetitions of 14 sts), work A.5C (= 14 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. When A.5 has been worked, piece measures approx. 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm from shoulder. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 3 rows rib (= K 1 / P 1) with 5 band sts garter st and 1 K in each side towards mid front (seen from RS). Then loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Jacket measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work sleeve in the round on double pointed needles until finished measurements.
Cast on 23-25-27-31-33-37 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Cotton Light. Insert 1 marker in the middle st on row.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Work stocking st back and forth and cast on new sts for sleeve cap at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 sts 1-1-2-5-4-3 times, 2 sts 7-8-6-1-1-0 times, 1 st 4-3-5-7-9-14 times and 2-2-3-3-5-7 sts 1 time = 69-73-79-85-89-97 sts on needle (piece measures approx. 9-9-10-10-11-13 cm). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm, work pattern according to diagram A.6 over the middle 17 sts (st with marker should match mid st in diagram – work the other sts in stocking st). When sleeve cap has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and continue in the round in stocking st and A.6 over the middle sts. When A.6 has been worked one time vertically, work A.1 over the middle 5 sts until finished measurements (continue the other sts in stocking st). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-16 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2½-2½-2-2-2-1½ cm 15-16-17-19-20-23 times in total = 39-41-45-47-49-51 sts. When sleeve measures 56-55-55-55-55-55-55 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above, and loosely cast off with K, sleeve measures approx 57-56-56-56-56-56 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge. Place sleeve approx. ½ cm in under edge in garter st along armhole and fasten neatly so that edge in garter st shows. Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 110 to 116 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Light. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before loosely casting off with K from RS.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO on next row (= hole)
symbols = pick up yarn between 2 sts and K yarn twisted (= not hole)
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = mid st
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (73)

country flag Wei wrote:

Can I pick up 73 st from the armhole (size M) to knit sleeves, rather than knit sleeve as a separated piece then to sew it on? I understand that in this way, I won’t have the extra rows of “sleeve cap”.

28.07.2023 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Wei, you may cast on stitches directly along the armhole and work sleeve cap back and forth from the top using short rows technique. After completing sleeve cap, you start to knit the sleeve in the round to the bottom. We don't have any video on this technique, but you can find it on the Internet. Happy knitting!

29.07.2023 - 10:19

country flag Alison wrote:

I think the right and left are the wrong way round in the pattern. Following the pattern as written, the inc/dec for armholes puts the right (as worn) on the left side and vice versa. This is t an issue until you come to do the front as you will need to put the buttonholes on the left front not right. Don’t know if it’s possible to change the pattern?

25.07.2023 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alison, right and left front are correct here; on back piece you increase on left shoulder at the end of a row from RS for neck and on right shoulder at the end of a row from WS. Then you work both pieces together and increase on each side for armhole. On right front piece, you increase at the end of a row from RS for the neck and at the end of a row from WS for armhole. On left front piece you will increase for neck at the end of a row from WS and increase for armhole at the end of a row from RS. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

28.07.2023 - 08:05

country flag Sandrine GREKOV wrote:

Bonjour. Merci pour votre réponse. Je tricote la taille L. Mon problème : Section dos, épaule gauche. À 2 cm de haut totale, monter 1 nouvelle m à la fin du rg suivant sur l'end. Tricoter le rg suivant sur l'env et monter 34 m pour l'encolure à la fin du rg suivant sur l'end = 3 rgs. Section dos, épaule droite. À 2 cm de haut totale, monter 1 nouvelle m en fin de rg sur l'env. Tricoter 1 rg sur l'end comme avant = 2 rgs.

27.02.2023 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, ajustez simplement l'épaule droite sur l'épaule gauche pour que vous ayez le même nombre de rangs de chaque côté du dos, autrement dit, le dernier rang tricoté de l'épaule gauche (quand on monte les 34 mailles pour l'encolure) doit être le même rang que le tout dernier rang pour l'épaule droite; ainsi, au rang suivant sur l'envers vous tricoterez l'épaule droite, puis les 34 mailles montées et les mailles de l'épaule gauche. Bon tricot!

27.02.2023 - 16:10

country flag Sandrine GREKOV wrote:

Pour faire suite à ma question précédente et pour plus de clarté, quand je dis que j'obtiens 4 répétitions du motif A.1 pour l'épaule gauche et 3 pour l'épaule droite c'est sur la hauteur (nombre de rangs) pas sur la largeur (nombres de mailles). J'espère que c'est plus clair ;-)

27.02.2023 - 01:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, pourriez-vous nous donner plus d'indications? Quelle taille vous tricotez mais aussi à quel niveau vous en êtes (pour la hauteur, c'est indispensable que l'on sache où vous en êtes pour vérifier si tout est juste). Merci pour votre compréhension.

27.02.2023 - 11:10

country flag Sandrine GREKOV wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai une autre question ! En suivant les indications pour le dos épaule gauche, j'obtiens 4 répétitions du motif A.1. Par contre en suivant celles du dos épaule droite je n'en obtiens que 3. Est-ce que c'est normal ? En plaçant les mailles de l'épaule gauche et celles de droite sur la même aiguille c'est comme si l'épaule droite était plus courte ! Qu'est-ce que je ne comprends pas ? Merci de votre aide.

27.02.2023 - 00:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, les deux épaules dos/devants doivent avoir le même nombre de motifs; peut-être pouvez-vous nous indiquer quelle taille vous tricotez? Je n'en suis pas bien sûre, merci pour votre compréhension.

27.02.2023 - 11:07

country flag Sandrine GREKOV wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment commencer. ''Tricoter 1 rg end sur l'envers et 1 rg end sur l'endroit (...) tricoter toutes les mailles à l'env sur l'envers...'' Une fois que les mailles sont montées, le 1er rg tricoté est un rg à l'endroit. Comment le 1er rg peut être un rg end sur l'envers ? Merci de votre aide. Sandrine

26.02.2023 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, parce que dans ce modèle (comme parfois aussi pour d'autre), on souhaite que le premier rang soit un rang sur l'envers pour que l'endroit du rang de montage soit du côté que l'on souhaite. Ainsi, tricotez simplement en commençant par 1 rang sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

27.02.2023 - 10:57

country flag Aissat wrote:

Comment tricoter l'arrondi de l'épaule ?

13.09.2022 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Aissat, qu'entendez-vous par l'arrondi de l'épaule? Les devants et le dos se tricotent de haut en bas, en commençant par les épaules; vous tricotez le point fantaisie et montez des mailles pour l'encolure dos entre les 2 épaules (dos) et augmentez puis montez des mailles pour les emmanchures, puis quand le dos et les 2 devants sont tricotés jusqu'aux emmanchures, on réunit toutes les pièces et on tricote le bas du gilet en une seule partie jusqu'en bas. N'hésitez pas à préciser votre question si j'ai mal interprété. Merci pour votre compréhension.

13.09.2022 - 16:19

country flag Guylaine wrote:

I have a problem at the section 4. Previously the 2a diagram (augmentation to 11 sts) are on the back yoke and not in the front The proposed sequence for diagram 4 is that the 4A (11 sts) is on the front, right after the 5 garter stiches. Am I on the wrong side (right-left) since the diagram 4B and 4C are the same at the start. This is my 3rd try!

08.02.2022 - 00:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Guylaine, sorry I don't understand what you mean here, until where have you already worked on back piece, which size are you working on, can you tell us more? thank you very much in advance for your comprehension.

08.02.2022 - 09:21

country flag Susan Gulliver wrote:

I don’t understand where the back cast on is . “Says start with the back piece “ but nowhere doe it start a back piece to cast on!!! Yoke at back say about taking stitches from each shoulder

11.08.2021 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan Gulliver, first you work the left shoulder back and the right shoulder back and then, you out them together to work the back in the section YOKE AT THE BACK.

11.08.2021 - 17:39

country flag Diane Csukai wrote:

At the beginning of the pattern left and right shoulder back k1 row from right side and 1 tow from wrong side, which chart am I using, or is it garter stitch?

22.07.2021 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Csukai, you are not using diagrams at this step, you just knit 2 rows (first one is a wrong side row and 2nd one is a right side row = 1 ridge in garter stitch), then on 3rd row = from WS, purl all stiches and finish with K2, then start working as established with diagram A.1 on next row from RS. Happy knitting!

23.07.2021 - 08:24