DROPS 166-22
DROPS design: Pattern no de-147
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color no 07, beige/blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

3 DC TOG AT BEG OF ROUND:
3 ch, work next dc around same ch but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 dc around same ch but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook.
3 DC TOG:
Work 1 dc around ch but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc around same ch, but wait the last pull through, work last dc around same ch but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dc but wait with last YO and pull through, work next dc but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook = 2 dc worked tog.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Work 4 ch on hook size 3,5 mm / C with Delight and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 4 ch (= 1 dc + 1 ch), * 1 dc in ch-ring, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc with 1 ch between every dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 2: 1 sl st around first ch, work 3 dc TOG AT BEG OF ROUND – see explanation above, * ch 3, 3 dc TOG around next ch – see explanation above *, repeat from *-* 11 times in total and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st at the top of first dc-group = 12 dc-groups with 3 ch between every dc-group.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st around first ch-space, ch 1, 1 sc around same ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc around next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc around next ch-space, ch 6, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, but finish with 1 sl st in first sc at beg of round (instead of 1 sc around next ch-space).
ROUND 4: Work 1 sl st around first ch-space, ch 1, 1 sc around same ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc around next ch-space, ch 1, around next ch-space (ch-space with 6 ch) work 5 dc + 3 ch + 5 dc (= corner), ch 1, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, but finish with 1 sl st in first sc at beg of round (instead of 1 sc around next ch-space).
ROUND 5: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space (ch-space with 5 ch), work 5 ch (= 1 hdc + 3 ch), * 1 sc around ch before dc-group, ch 5, 1 sc around ch-space in corner, ch 3, 1 sc around same ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc around ch-space after next dc-group, ch 3, 1 hdc around next ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, but finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 hdc in next ch-space, 3 ch). Cut the yarn. The round now starts around the ch-space in first corner.
ROUND 6: 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around same ch-space, * work 3 dc around each of the first 2 ch-spaces, 3 dc in hdc, 3 dc around each of the next 2 ch-spaces, work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around ch-space in the corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, work 3 dc around every ch-space and 3 dc in every hdc until the corner and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 7: Work sl sts until ch-space in corner, 4 ch (= 1 tr), work 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around same ch-space (= corner), * (2 ch, skip 1 dc-group, 1 dc before next dc-group = between 2 dc-groups), repeat from (-) 6 times in total, ch 2, 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, repeat from (-) 6 times in total and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
ROUND 8: Work sl sts until the middle of the 2 tr in corner, 3 ch (= 1 sc + 2 ch), 1 sc between the same middle tr in corner, * 3 sc around space, 1 sc between the next 2 tr, then work 3 sc around every ch-space until tr in corner, 1 sc between the first 2 tr, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc + 2 ch + 1 sc between the middle 2 tr in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, 3 sc around ch-space, 1 sc between the next 2 tr, then work 3 sc around every ch-space until tr in corner, 1 sc between the first 2 tr, 3 sc around ch-space and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 9: Work 1 sl st around ch-space in corner, 6 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), 1 dc around same ch-space, * ch 3, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, (3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in next sc), repeat from (-) 6 times in total, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc around ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in corner).
ROUND 10: 1 sl st in ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around same ch-space, * work 3 dc around each of the first 3 ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc around each of the next 3 ch-spaces, ch 1, 3 dc around each of the next 3 ch-spaces, in corner work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in corner).
ROUND 11: Work sl st until ch-space in corner, 4 ch (= 1 tr), work 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 2, skip 2 dc-groups, 1 tr before next dc-group, ch 2, skip 2 dc-groups, around ch before next dc-group work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr, skip 1 dc-group, 1 tr in the middle dc in next dc-group, skip 1 dc-group, around ch before next dc-groups work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr, ch 2, skip 2 dc-groups, 1 tr before next dc-group, ch 2, around ch-space in corner work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round (instead of tr-groups in corner).
ROUND 12: Work sl sts until middle of the middle 2 tr in corner, 3 ch (= 1 sc + 2 ch), 1 sc between the middle tr in corner, * 3 sc around ch-space, 1 sc between the next 2 tr, 3 sc around each of the next 2 ch-spaces, 1 sc between the next 2 tr, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc between the next 2 tr, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc in each of the next 2 tr, skip 1 tr, 1 sc in each of the next 2 tr, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc between 2 tr, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc between 2 tr, 3 sc around each of the next 2 ch-spaces, 1 sc between 2 tr, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc + 2 ch + 1 sc between the 2 middle tr in corner *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round (instead of 1 sc + 2 ch + 1 sc in corner).
ROUND 13: Work 1 sl st around ch-space in corner, 7 ch (= 1 tr + 3 ch), 1 tr around same ch-space, * ch 3, skip 3 sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 3, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, ch 3, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc and work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr around ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round (instead of 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr around ch-space in corner).
ROUND 14: 1 sl st around ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around same ch-space, * work 3 dc around each of the first 6 ch-spaces, 1 dc around 2-ch-space, 1 dc in dc, 1 dc around 2-ch-space, work 3 dc around each of the next 6 ch-spaces, in corner work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in corner).
ROUND 15: 1 sl st around ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around same ch-space, * (2 ch, 1 dc before next dc-group), repeat from (-) until corner, ch 2, around ch-space in corner work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of dc-group in corner).
ROUND 16: 1 sl st around ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around same ch-space, * work 3 dc in every ch-space until corner, work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around ch-space in corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, work 3 dc around every ch-space until corner and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Continue repeating 15th and 16th round until square measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''.
Now work armholes as follows: Work as before until first corner, work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the corner. Now work ch until the middle of next side (i.e. in the middle between 1st and 2nd corner) as follows: Work 1 ch for every ch/dc skipped. Then work pattern as before until the middle between 3rd and 4th corner. Now work ch until beg of round as follows: Work 1 ch for every ch/dc skipped. On next round work pattern and inc as before over all sts, also in ch for armholes.

Continue repeating15th and 16th round until no of ch-spaces between each corner is divisible with 3. Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sl st around ch-space in corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around same ch-space, * (work 3 dc around each of the first 3 ch-spaces, 1 ch), repeat from (-) until 3 ch-spaces remain before corner, work 3 dc around each of the next ch-spaces, in corner work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc around ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round (instead of 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in corner).
ROUNDS 2-4: Work as 11th-13th round (work 1 dc-group around every ch from previous round).
ROUNDS 5-18: Work as 15th and 16th round. Repeat these 2 rounds 7 times in total.
Repeat 18th round until square measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm x 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' x 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''8'' (i.e. 21 cm / 8 1/4'' in all sizes from armhole). Cut the yarn.

FRONT PIECES:
Now work back and forth between first and second corner. NOTE: Work front piece without inc.
ROW 1: Work according to A.2 as follows: Work sl sts until the middle of first corner: ch 5,* skip 3 dc, 1 dc between 2 dc-groups, 2 ch *, repeat from *-*, skip 3 dc and finish with 1 dc around ch-space in second corner.
ROW 2: Turn and work as follows: ch 3, 2 dc around first ch-space, then work 3 dc around every ch-space, last time finish with 1 dc in 3rd ch at beg of previous row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row for 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'', cut the yarn. Repeat on the other side, now work back and forth from third to fourth corner. Finally work a round around the entire square, work pattern as before but in ch-space in each corner work 6 dc. Fasten off.

SLEEVES:
Work around the armhole and down, work every round tog with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Insert 1 marker in piece, mid under sleeve. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Beg by working 81-84-87-93-96-99 dc evenly around the opening for sleeve, beg of row should be under sleeve.

Continue with A.2 - when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' dec under sleeve as follows:
Dec as shown in A.3/A.4 – READ DECREASE TIP alternately on right and left side of marker. Dec like this every 4th round 10-11-11-6-6-7 times, then every other round 0-0-0-7-7-7 times = 51-51-54-54-57-57 dc. Work A.2 until sleeve measures approx. 47 cm / 18½'' in all sizes. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = 1 sc in st
symbols = 1 sc around ch-space
symbols = 1 sc between 2 tr
symbols = 1 hdc in st
symbols = 1 hdc around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc between 2 dc-groups
symbols = 1 tr in st
symbols = 1 tr around ch-space
symbols = 1 tr between 2 dc-groups
symbols = 3 dc tog around ch-space
symbols = ch 4, 1 sl st in first ch
symbols = beg front piece
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 166-22

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (73)

country flag Brussel wrote:

Hi, ik wil graag een patroon haken van een vest, maar snap niks van dat A l1 en A2 etc. Heb de tutorial ook al gelezen. \\r\\nIs het mogelijk dat jullie dat deel ook uitschrijven zoals toer 1, 2 etc. echter wil ik hier best voor betalen.\\r\\nIk hoor het graag.\\r\\n\\r\\nMet vriendelijke groet, \\r\\n\\r\\nAstrid Brussel

16.08.2022 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Brussel,

Het is voor ons helaas niet mogelijk om het telpatroon uit te schrijven, we werken meestal met telpatronen. Misschien kun je aangeven waar je precies tegenaan loopt met de telpatronen, zodat we je beter kunnen helpen. Of misschien is het mogelijk om bij een verkooppunt langs te gaan voor hulp.

17.08.2022 - 16:42

country flag Pauline wrote:

Hallo Ist das Rückenteil von Armloch zu Armloch tatsächlich nur 38 cm breit in Größe M? Das kommt mir sehr wenig vor. LG

16.05.2022 - 12:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pauline, es stimmt ja, gerne ziehen Sie die Jacke an, nachdem Sie die Runde mit dem Armloch gehäkelt haben, und so können Sie mal schauen ob es passt, oder ob Sie anpassen sollen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

16.05.2022 - 16:43

country flag Astrid wrote:

Korreksjon til spørsmålet under - kragekanten blir 21, ikke 24, cm fra ermehullene - men virker altså like fullt lang :)

23.03.2022 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Astrid, Målene er fra bunn av ermehullet. God fornøyelse!

24.03.2022 - 07:10

country flag Astrid wrote:

Jeg mener å ha fulgt oppskriften for bolen på medium, men "kragen", 24 cm lengde fra armhullene, virker mye lenger enn på avbildede modell, og må rulles flere ganger bak nakken. Stemmer dette med oppskriften:)?

23.03.2022 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Astrid. Om du ser på målskissen skal det være 21 cm fra øverst av armhullet og opp, og kragen blir leggende litt dobbelt ved nakken. Om du får 24 cm, har du da overholdt heklefastheten? mvh DROPS Design

28.03.2022 - 11:47

country flag Aggie Mack wrote:

Bonjour, Meilleurs voeux 2021 à votre sympathique équipe! Ma question est la suivante: j\'aime beaucoup -et depuis longtemps- la Delight. Dans les modèles proposés par Drops, pour les ouvrages au crochet, parfois vous préconisez le 3,5, parfois le 5. Qu'est-ce ce qui justifie cette différence de numéros... Que me conseillez vous comme numéro pour un châle le plus souple possible ? Merci de votre réponse!

06.01.2021 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mack et merci pour vos vœux, recevez les nôtres en retour! Le choix de la taille du crochet est lié à la structure souhaitée, pour un châle par exemple, on va choisir un crochet plus gros pour obtenir un résultat plus souple, plus aérien, et pour un gilet, comme celui-ci, on va choisir un crochet plus fin. Fiez-vous toujours à l'échantillon indiqué et adaptez la taille du crochet pour que votre échantillon soit juste. Bon crochet!

06.01.2021 - 13:16

country flag Mae wrote:

I have to express my appreciation for this lovely pattern. It's easy to follow, especially because a schematic is also included. I'm so pleased with my jacket. Thank you again! I look forward to future creations from DROPS. I'm not a social media user, but will attempt to post a picture and hashtag it on Instagram.

01.11.2020 - 16:38

country flag Iety wrote:

Vanaf toer 6 onbegrijpelijk en komt telpatroon niet over een met beschrijving. Zoals helaas vaak met jullie patronen veel fouten hebben.

02.11.2019 - 17:30

country flag Sherry Wingler wrote:

How much yarn do I need if I want to make this in a solid color? Thanks!

26.10.2019 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sherry, the pattern uses Drops Delight yarn, which is a self striping yarn, so if you want to make this in a solid color, íou would need the same amount of the same yarn group (450-500-550-600-650-750 gramm-depending on the size oyu want to make). Happy Crafting!

27.10.2019 - 01:44

country flag Sherry Wingler wrote:

How much yarn do I need if I want to make this in one color? Trying to get busy on Christmas presents!! Thank you in advance!!

26.10.2019 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sherry, the same amount from the same yarn group, or please use our yarn converter. Happy Knitting!

27.10.2019 - 01:48

country flag Kristin wrote:

Hi. I'm loving this pattern but need help on the first pattern row (16) after the armholes have been created. The pattern says "On next round work pattern and inc as before over all sts, also in ch for armholes." Does this mean I should stitch 4 treble crochet in each chain space on this row, then 5 in the next etc?

01.09.2019 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kristin, on the round after you have crocheted the both chains for armhole, you continue in pattern as you worked before, but this time crochet in the stitches from previous round + in the chains from both chain-stitches as before (=as if you haven't crocheted these chains) so that you create a hole for sleeves. Happy crocheting!

02.09.2019 - 10:34