DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 19.95 kr /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 320.00kr.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

October Dream

Knitted DROPS jumper with Norwegian pattern, round yoke and high collar in "Nepal". Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 166-5
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-181
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 0500, light grey
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 0501, grey
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 0100, off white
colour no 2923, goldenrod
colour no 8038, light olive
colour no 8908, aqua blue
colour no 8911, sea blue
colour no 8910, raspberry rose

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 19.95 kr /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 320.00kr.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
Dec on each side of marker in each side as follows: Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Inc on each side of marker as follows:
Beg 2 sts before marker and make 1 YO, K 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve):
Inc on each side of marker as follows:
Beg 1 sts before marker and make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Before round yoke beg dec for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 – choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 184-200-220-244-264-292 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 36-40-44-48-52-60 sts evenly = 148-160-176-196-212-232 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 74-80-88-98-106-116 sts (= the sides). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 times = 132-144-160-176-192-212 sts. When piece measures 26 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm a total of 3 times in all sizes = 144-156-172-188-204-224 sts. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm, work next round as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole, work 66-72-78-86-92-102 sts (= front piece), cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole, work 66-72-78-86-92-102 sts (= back piece) and cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-52-52-56-56-56 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. K 1 round while dec 12 sts evenly in all sizes = 40-40-40-44-44-44 sts. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 10-11-13-13-10-12 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP 2. Repeat inc every 3½-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm 10-11-12-12-13-15 times in total = 60-62-64-68-70-74 cm. When piece measures 45-45-44-44-44-43 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off the middle 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts mid under sleeve = 54-56-56-60-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 240-256-268-292-304-332 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Work in stocking st in the round with light grey AT THE SAME TIME dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above, in every transition between body and sleeves. Repeat dec for raglan every other round 1-2-3-4-2-3 times in total = 232-240-244-260-288-308 sts. K 1 round with light grey while dec 8-8-4-4-8-8 sts evenly = 224-232-240-256-280-300 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size) - READ KNITTING TIP.
On round marked with arrow 1 in diagram dec 14-16-18-22-28-30 sts evenly = 210-216-222-234-252-270 sts.
On round marked with arrow 2 in diagram dec 30-36-30-42-48-54 sts evenly = 180-180-192-192-204-216 sts.
On round marked with arrow 3 in diagram dec 24-24-30-30-36-36 sts evenly = 156-156-162-162-168-180 sts.
On round marked with arrow 4 in diagram dec 36-36-36-36-38-42 sts evenly = 120-120-126-126-130-138 sts.
On round marked with arrow 5 in diagram dec 34-34-36-36-36-40 sts evenly = 86-86-90-90-94-98 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm up to shoulder.

ELEVATION AT THE BACK:
Insert 1 marker mid front. Beg mid back and work an elevation at the back on circular needle size 5 mm with grey as follows: K until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker, turn and P until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until mid back.

NECK:
Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm and K 1 round with grey while inc 10 sts evenly in all sizes = 96-96-100-100-104-108 sts. Then work rib in the round = K 2/P 2. When neck measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, inc every other 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 108-108-112-112-117-121 sts. When neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm, inc the remaining 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 120-120-125-125-130-135 sts. When neck measures 12-12-12-14-14-14 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = grey
symbols = off white
symbols = aqua blue
symbols = sea blue
symbols = raspberry rose
symbols = goldenrod
symbols = light olive
symbols = dec round
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 166-5

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Jules Fairfax wrote:

The problem sentence is this: Repeat inc every 1 1/4"- ... 10- times in total = 60-62-64-68-70-74 cm / 23½"-24½"-25 1/4"-26 3/4"-27½"-29". I do not see that this phrase belongs,,,,as the very next sentence says: When piece measures 45- cm / 17 3/4"-, bind off the middle 6-sts mid under sleeve = 54-sts remain on needle...

09.02.2024 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jules, there is a typo in the pattern, it's 60-62-64-68-70-74 sts and not cm. We will correct it as soon as possible. Happy knitting!

11.02.2024 - 22:34

country flag Jules Fairfax wrote:

How to knit THIS SWEATER (shape) without doing the color stuff...can I somehow use this pattern's directions (how to simplify, please?)

01.01.2024 - 04:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fairfax, you can then just follow whole instructions as well as diagrams working diagrams with only one colour and decreasing on the rounds with an arrow as stated in the written pattern. Happy knitting!

02.01.2024 - 11:49

country flag Karen Lütge wrote:

Wenn Sie in der Erklärung zum Rumpfteil von „Gesamtlänge“ sprechen, ist die Länge mit dem Bündchen gemeinsam oder butcher rechts gestrickte Teil gemeint?

17.02.2022 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lütge, ja genau, die gesamte Länge von der Anschlagskante, also mit dem Bündchen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.02.2022 - 16:12

country flag Charlotte Rietveld wrote:

Ik heb de opmerking dat ik geen maat 5 mm (kousen naalden) kon krijgen in míjn regio bestaan ze niet(meer) zeiden meer winkels. Dus voor de mensen, kijk eventueel naar een 4.5 mm want de steken lijken qua grootte erg op elkaar.

22.11.2019 - 18:15

country flag Olga Mikulasova wrote:

Nejde vytisknout navod

31.10.2019 - 21:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dorý den, paní Mikulasova, děkujeme za zprávu - prověřili jsme tisk na několika úrovních, ale z naší strany funguje vše, jak má. Zkuste prosím znovu, popřípadě zkontrolujte nastavení své tiskárny a prohlížeče.

03.11.2019 - 18:42

country flag Natascha wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, wenn die Ärmel zum Rumpfteil kommen - wo ist dann der Rundenbeginn? Mitte Rücken? Danke. LG, Natascha

07.07.2019 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Natascha, Rundbeginn kann entweder vor oder nach dem Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.07.2019 - 10:30

country flag Gunilla Josefsson wrote:

Hej, Jag har länge funderat på om måttangivelserna som anges i mönstret är storleken på färdig tröja eller om det är storleken på en naken kropp som tröjan ska passa till

06.02.2019 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dessa mått gäller alltid det färdiga plagget.

06.02.2019 - 17:31

country flag DEYANIRA MEDINA wrote:

Hola. Señala para la elevación que a partir del centro espalda debo tejer hasta antes de 10 puntos del centro frente, virar y tejer hasta 10 puntos antes del centro espalda, y así sucesivamente, esto significa que el aumento se llevará a cabo entre los dos marcadores en un lado del sueter, pero no en la espalda, No entiendo. Espero logren ayudarme. Gracias

18.01.2019 - 05:27

country flag Tarah Matson wrote:

I just got my yarn and needles delivered and am so pleased and excited! the colours are even more beautiful in person, and the feel of the yarn is amazing! I can't wait to get started. Thank you for making such lovely yarn and patterns.

17.01.2019 - 01:40

country flag Margitta wrote:

Liebes Drops Team,in der Anleitung steht 40 cm dann Ärmel abnahme.In der Skizze ist das gesamtmaß bis zur Ärmelabnahme mit 60 cm angegeben.Was ist richtig ?

09.01.2019 - 07:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margitta, die Ärmel werden beim 40 cm (Rumpfteil) anfangen + 20 cm für die Passe = 60 cm gesamte Länge für den Pullover. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.01.2019 - 08:49