DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.15$.

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Sailor Aksel

Knitted jacket with raglan, loose sailor's collar with bow, socks and hat with pompom in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size children 2 - 10 years

DROPS Children 26-7
DROPS design: Pattern no me-020-bn
Yarn group B
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JACKET:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
All measurements in chart in cm.

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-450 g color no 20, dark blue
100 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 11, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - for edges.
DROPS BUTTONS, ENGRAVED NO 525: 5-6-6-6-6 pieces
ACCESSORIES: 2 push-buttons for fastening collar to jacket.

HAT:
Size: 2 - 3/6 - 7/10 years
Head circumference: approx. 48/50 - 50/53 - 53/55 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-21 1/4"
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50-50-100 g color no 20, dark blue
50 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rounds in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for edge.

SOCKS:
Size:
US: child 5½/6½ - 7/8-9/10½-11/13-13½ - 5/6½ woman
EU: 22/23 - 24/25 - 26/28 - 29/31 - 32/34 - 35/37
To fit foot length: 13 - 15 - 17 - 18 - 20 - 22 cm / 5"-6"-6 3/4"-7"-8"-8 3/4"
Leg length: 15 - 18 - 21 - 24 - 27 - 29 cm / 6"-7"-8 1/4"-9½"-10½"-11½"
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color no 20, dark blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 – for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Children Children Cardigans Children Socks & Slippers Baby Socks & Booties Children Hats and beanies Children Ties & Bows Children Beanies 17 mai bottom up collar maritime raglan round neck stocking stitch stripes

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

JACKET:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

STRIPES 1 (applies to body and sleeves):
2 rows/rounds stockinette st with off white, 2 rows/rounds stockinette st with dark blue, 2 rows/rounds stockinette with off white (= 6 rows).

STRIPES 2 (applies to sailor's collar):
4 rows/rounds K with off white, 4 rows/rounds K with dark blue, 4 rows/rounds K with off white.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row/round work YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Beg 2 sts before st with marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, K 1 (= st with marker), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

RAGLAN:
Dec on each side of marker in each raglan line.
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and P 2 twisted tog, P 2 (marker is between these 2 sts) and P 2 tog (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on left band. 1 buttonhole = make 1 YO when 4 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog and finish with 2 K. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 27 cm / 3/4",3",5½",8",10½"
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 2, 8, 13, 19, 24 and 30 cm / 3/4",3",5",7½",9½",11 3/4"
SIZE 5/6 YEARS: 2, 8, 15, 21, 28 and 34 cm / 3/4",3",6",8 1/4",11",13½".
SIZE 7/8 YEARS: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm / 3/4",3½",6 1/4",9",11 3/4",14½"
SIZE 9/10 YEARS: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34 and 41 cm / 3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16".
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JACKET:

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 138-146-154-162-170 sts (includes 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with dark blue. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST and remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work STRIPES 1 – see explanation above – but continue the outermost 5 sts in each side in garter st until finished measurements (= bands). When stripes are done, continue with dark blue and stockinette st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Insert 1 marker 37-39-41-43-45 sts in from each side (= 64-68-72-76-80 sts between markers on back piece). When piece measures 6-7-8-9-10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 12-14-16-18-20 cm / 4 3/4"-5½"-6 1/4"-7"-8" = 146-154-162-170-178 sts. When piece measures 18-21-24-27-30 cm / 7"-8 1/4"-9½"-10½"-11 3/4", bind off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 3 sts on each side of both markers) = 36-38-40-42-44 sts remain on each front piece and 62-66-70-74-78 sts on back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 36-38-38-40-40 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with dark blue and work 4 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work STRIPES 1. When stripes are done, continue with dark blue and stockinette st until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-6-6-9-9 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-3½"-3½", inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 2½-2½-2½-2-2 cm / 7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 8-9-11-13-15 times = 52-56-60-66-70 sts. When piece measures 25-30-33-37-41 cm / 9 3/4"-11 3/4"-13"-14½"-16", bind off the middle 6 sts mid under sleeve = 46-50-54-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and Make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off (without working them first) = 226-242-258-278-294 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece = 4 markers. Continue back and forth on circular needle as before in stockinette st and 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec for RAGLAN on each side of all markers – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec for raglan on every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 16-16-16-17-18 times in total and then every row (i.e. both from RS and WS) 0-2-4-6-7 times in total.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 28-31-35-38-42 cm / 11"-12 1/4"-13 3/4"-15"-16½" – adjust so that 1-2 rows have been worked after last buttonhole, slip the outermost 16-13-13-10-10 sts in each side towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work sts before slipping them on 1 stitch holder). Then bind off for neck at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts 0-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2 times.
After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, 64-64-64-62-62 sts remain on needle.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 96 to 116 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with dark blue. K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 70-70-76-82-82 sts - NOTE: Do not dec over bands. K 4 rows and then loosely bind off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

SAILOR'S COLLAR:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 164-176-190-204-216 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with dark blue. Work first row as follows from RS: K 52-56-60-64-68, K 1 and insert 1 marker in this st, K 58-62-68-74-78, K 1 and insert 1 marker in this st, work the remaining 52-56-60-64-68 sts. Then work in garter st back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st on each side of st with marker – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 22-24-26-28-30 times in total.
AT THE SAME TIME when 3 ridges have been worked with dark blue after cast-on edge, work STRIPES 2 - see explanation above (also work stripes in garter st). When stripes are done, continue with dark blue, in garter st and dec as before AT THE SAME TIME bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 5 sts 1 time, 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 3 times, 2 sts 5 times and 1 st 3-5-7-9-11 times.
After all bind off's, 14-14-16-18-18 sts remain on needle, bind off.
Fold the inner edge on sailor's collar approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' in towards WS and fasten neatly. Sew sailor's collar tog mid front with small sts. Place sailor's collar on jacket and sew a push-button between the jacket and the collar on each shoulder in towards the neck.

BOW:
Cast on 12 sts on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with red and work in GARTER ST back and forth for 8 cm / 3 1/8'', bind off.
Cast on 10 sts on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with red and work 4 ridges in garter st, bind off. Sew short sides tog to form a ring, cut and fasten the strands.
Pull the bow through the ring and sew the two part tog at the back. Fasten bow mid front on sailor's collar mid front to cover the seam.

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HAT:

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

STRIPES:
2 rounds stockinette with off white, 2 rounds stockinette with dark blue, 2 rounds stockinette with off white (= 6 rounds).

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st after each marker as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.
Cast on 96-100-104 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with dark blue. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and K 1 round. Then work STRIPES - see explanation above. When stripes are done, continue with dark blue and stockinette st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 14-15-16 cm / 5½"-6"-6 1/4", insert 4 markers in the piece, 24-25-26 sts apart. Then dec 1 st after every marker – Read DECREASE TIP, (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec on every other round 5-6-6 times in total and then on every round 6-6-7 times in total = 52 sts remain on needle in all sizes. Work 1 round in stockinette where all sts are worked K tog 2 by 2, repeat on next round = 13 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. The hat measures approx. 20-21-23 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-9" vertically.

POMPOM:
Make a small pompom with off white, approx. 3-4 cm / 1"-1½" in diameter and fasten it at the top of hat.

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SOCKS:

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= from RS): Work until 5-5-6-6-8-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= from WS): Work until 5-5-6-6-8-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3: Work until 4-4-5-5-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4: Work until 4-4-5-5-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before every dec until 10-10-12-12-12-12 sts remain on needle.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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SOCKS:
Cast on 42-46-52-56-62-66 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib as follows:
Size 22/23 + 24/25: P 2, K 2, P 4, K 2, P 4, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4 times in total, ** K 2, P 4 **, repeat from **-** 2-2 times in total and finish with K 2 and P 2.
Size 26/28 + 29/31: K 1, P 4, K 2, P 4, K 2, P 4, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 4-5 times in total, ** K 2, P 4 **, repeat from **-** 3-3 times in total and finish with K 1.
Size 32/34 + 35/37: P 2, K 2, P 4, K 2, P 4, K 2, P 4, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 5-6 times in total, ** K 2, P 4 **, repeat from **-** 3-3 times in total and finish with K 2 and P 2.
When rib measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'', switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Then work in stockinette st but continue rib over the middle 28-28-34-34-40-40 sts mid back (= 14-18-18-22-22-26 sts in stockinette st at the front of sock). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'', dec every other P 4 to P 3 (dec 1 st by P 2 tog = 3-3-3-3-4-4 sts dec). After 2½-3-4-5-6-6 cm / 7/8"-3"-1½"-2"-2½"-2½" dec the remaining P 4 to P 3. Repeat dec every 2½-3-4-5-6-6 cm / 7/8"-3"-1½"-2"-2½"-2½" 2 more times = 32-36-40-44-48-52 sts remain on needle and 2 P sts in each P section mid back. Continue to work until piece measures 15-18-21-24-27-29 cm / 6"-7"-8 1/4"-9½"-10½"-11½". Now keep the middle 18-18-22-22-26-26 sts mid back on needle for heel and slip the remaining 14-18-18-22-22-26 sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot). Continue rib back and forth over heel sts for 4½-5-5-5½-5½-6 cm / 1 3/4"-2"-2"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2½". Insert 1 marker in middle of needle. Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above. After heel dec pick up 10-11-11-12-12-13 sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 44-50-52-58-58-64 sts on needle. Continue in the round in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side sts on top of foot as follows: K the last 2 sts before the 14-18-18-22-22-26 sts on top of foot tog and K the first 2 sts after the 14-18-18-22-22-26 sts twisted tog. Dec every other round 7-8-8-9-9-11 times in total = 30-34-36-40-40-42 sts.
Continue to work until piece measures approx. 10-12-13-14-16-18 cm / 4"-4 3/4"-5"-5½"-6 1/4"-7" from marker on heel (approx. 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm / 1"-1"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½" remain until finished measurements). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 15-17-18-20-20-21 sts on both upper foot and under foot. Then dec for toes on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other round a total of 4-4-5-5-5-5 times and then every round 2-2-2-3-3-3 times = 6-10-8-8-8-10 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Sock measures approx. 13-15-17-18-20-22 cm / 5"-6"-6 3/4"-7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel. Knit another sock.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

REINE MARIE wrote:

Bonjour ,là je suis arrivée à l'assemblage du col :alors faut-il coudre bord à bord (les 18mailles) de chaque côté ensembles ou les superposer? Sinon le long du col je fais 1cm de petits point ourlés tout le tour du col marin .J'aimerai pour être sure de moi de bien faire .Merci beaucoup de votre réponse attendue pour vite finir et l'offrir à mon Petit Fils .bonne journée à votre belle équipe et merci encore

04.08.2023 - 07:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Reine Marie, posez le col bien à plat sur le gilet pour qu'il soit bien placé et assemblez les devants ensemble au niveau où ils se rejoignent en veillant à ce qu'ils soient bien placés - assemblez sur la longueur nécessaire sans déformer le col/gilet. Cette couture sera ensuite cachée par le noeud papillon. Le long de l'intérieur du col (la partie contre le cou), repliez sur environ 1 cm et cousez tout le long. Bonne continuation!

04.08.2023 - 08:07

EXCUSEZ MOI ENCORE POUR LES BOUTONS PRESSIONS FAUT IL COUDRE SUR L ENDROIT DE L EPAULE OU DESSOUS MERCI CAR CELA M EST UN PEU DIFFICILE .MERCI DE VOTRE REPONSE POUR CES DEUX QUESTIONS SEPAREE

02.08.2023 - 16:34

Bonjour Reine Marie, placez les boutons pressions sur les épaules, près de l'encolure/du col et l'autre partie sur l'envers du col (celle qui se trouve posée contre le gilet). Bonnes finitions!

03.08.2023 - 07:52

Bonjour ,on dit de coudre le col à petits points sur le devant es ce que c\'est au niveau de l\'encolure ou c\'est qu\'il faut coudre les pointes de 18mailles ensembles je ne sais pas ,.Merci de votre réponse

02.08.2023 - 15:15

Bonjour Reine Marie, vous allez coudre les pointes ensemble, pour que ce soit bien joli, posez le gilet à plat et mettez le col en place puis assemblez les 2 côtés du col pour le maintenir, vous coudrez ensuite le noeud dessous pour cacher la couture. Bon tricot!

Merci beaucoup de votre réponse .Bonne soirée

01.08.2023 - 20:52

Bonjour ,je suis entrain de tricoter le col marin alors pour les diminutions faut il laisser la maille a l endroit jersey ou faut il la tricoter en point mousse a chaque rang aussi de chaque cote des diminutions .Merci de votre réponse

01.08.2023 - 14:51

Bonjour Reine Marie, les mailles avec les marqueurs se tricotent aussi au point mousse, comme les autres. Bon tricot!

01.08.2023 - 17:54

Bonjour l'équipe ,merci c'est ce qui me semblait ,je vous remercie beaucoup .Bonne après midi ,le résultat va être super beau je l'espère .Merci encore

31.07.2023 - 15:20

Bonjour pour le raglan de cette jolie veste marin faut t'il diminuer alternativement les mailles tous les deux rangs et tous les rangs ,ou faire d'abord : 17FOIS1MAILLES à la suite, et ensuite faire les diminutions tous les rangs pour finir ou alterner .Merci de votre réponse car là je doute .

29.07.2023 - 15:10

Bonjour Reine Marie, pour le raglan, vous allez diminuer 8 mailles à chaque fois (1 sur chaque devant, 1 au début + 1 à la fin de chacune des manches et du dos, et répéter ces diminutions 17 fois tous les rangs sur l'endroit (tous les 2 rangs) puis 6 fois tous les rangs (sur l'endroit et sur l'envers). Diminuez comme indiqué sous RAGLAN au début des explications. Bon tricot!

31.07.2023 - 10:16

Reine Marie wrote:

Merci 🍀🌹🍀j\'ai compris ,bonne fin d\'après-midi.

24.07.2023 - 16:33

Bonjour comment augmenter 2mailles sous la manche en tricotant en rond .merci de votre réponse

24.07.2023 - 14:02

Bonjour, mettre un fil marqueur au debut du tour (milieu sous la manche). Ensuite suivez les explications. Pour augmenter 2 mailles sous la manche vous procedez comme suit: en commençant 1 maille avant le fil marqueur, 1 jeté, tricoter 2 mailles endroit (le fil marqueur est entre ces 2 mailles), 1 jeté. Au tour suivant, tricoter les jetés torse à l'endroit pour éviter des trous (on augmente 2 mailles). Tricoter ensuite les augmentations en jersey. Bon tricot!

24.07.2023 - 14:27

Merci de votre réponse ;alors j'avais bien compris mais je préféré vous demander .Bonne soirée.

15.07.2023 - 18:04