DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 156-34
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-097
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-100-100-100-125 g color no 05, heather

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. To make the pattern the same in each side, work first row in diagram at the end of first row from RS and at the end of the second row from WS. I.e. all rows where YOs and sts-tog are worked, must be worked at the end of row. No of sts in diagram will vary from 7 to 12.

SHORT ROWS:
Work 6 rows over all sts, * work until marker in one side, turn, tighten yarn and work the rest of row. Work 1 row over all sts, turn, work until marker in the other side, turn, tighten yarn and work the rest of row. Work 5 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-*. I.e. work 6 rows (= 3 ridges) over the middle 90-96-102-106-112-116 sts and 8 rows (4 ridges) over sts in each side in every repetition.
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BOLERO:
Worked sideways back and forth on circular needle. Beg with right sleeve, cast on sts for back and collar in both sides of piece, bind off again for left sleeve. Then fold double and sew sleeve and side seams.

Cast on 74-78-82-88-92-96 sts with 2 strands Kid-Silk on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Remove 1 strand and work in GARTER ST - see explanation above! REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 17 cm / 6 3/4'' (= sleeve), loosely cast on 34-37-40-41-44-46 new sts in each side at the end of the next 2 rows = 142-152-162-170-180-188 sts. Insert 1 marker in piece 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts in from each side (= 90-96-102-106-112-116 sts between markers). Then work A.1 over the outermost 7 sts in each side of piece – READ PATTERN – and garter st over the remaining sts – AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above.
When piece measures approx. 71-73-75-77-79-81 cm / 28''-28¾''-29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32'' (from cast-on edge), adjust after 1 whole repetition of A.1, loosely bind off 34-37-40-41-44-46 sts in each side at beg of the next 2 rows = 74-78-82-88-92-96 sts. Continue in garter st over sleeve. When sleeve measures 17 cm / 6 3/4'', loosely bind off with 2 strands. Piece measures approx. 88-90-92-94-96-98 cm / 34½"-35½"-36 1/4"-37"-37 3/4"-38½".

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bolero double. Sew sleeve and side seams in outer loops of edge sts, and make sure to avoid a tight edge.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, K from WS
(= garter st)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row
K YO
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = bind off this st
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = fold
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Louise wrote:

I would like to knit Mathilda. I understand how to measure for size for a regular construction, however this is not regular construction. How can I determine what size to make without guessing, knitting the whole piece and finding it doesn’t fit?

15.03.2024 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Louise, we generally suggest that try to find a piece that is similar to what the piece is, and compare sizes, that you can see on the schematic drawings below the pattern. This piece is pratically atube, that is opened on its side, that is flared out a bit, this is where you take it on (these measurments can be seen at the bottom of the dravings. Happy Knitting!

17.03.2024 - 09:41

country flag Natalia wrote:

Guten Tag! Den Bolero habe ich schon einmal gestrickt und er ist bei mir erstaunlich klein ausgefallen. Jetzt bin ich zufällig auf die Anleitung DROPS 109-42 gestoßen, die dieser sehr ähnlich ist, sieht aber auf dem Bild enger aus, obwohl der Verbrauch dort größer ist - 125 g bei der Größe S, genauso die Maßangaben auf der Skitze. Wo liegt mein Fehler? Jetzt habe ich mir noch Wolle gekauft und möchte den Bolero nochmal stricken, will aber nicht, dass er wieder so eng ist. Danke!

03.10.2023 - 14:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Natalia, das Modell 109-42 ist auch etwas grösser: breiter bei den Ärmeln und bei der totalen Breite, und wegen das Muster braucht man sicher auch mehr Wolle dafür. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.10.2023 - 09:03

country flag Karin Svensson wrote:

Är de 6v som inleder beskrivningens "Förkortade varv" överordnade A1? När 17cm ärm är klar nya maskor upplagda och markörerna utsatta, ska man sticka 6v över alla maskor INNAN man börjar m A1? Eller börjar A1 direkt efter nya maskorna och SAMTIDIGT sticka förkortade varv?

01.03.2023 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karin. Du strikker A.1 og forkortete pinner samtidig. A.1 startes å strikkes når det er lagt opp masker i hver side og de 2 merkene er satt inn fra hver side. mvh DROPS Design

06.03.2023 - 13:02

country flag Pernille Frøstrup wrote:

Jeg er er i gang med boleroén og den spidser til som følge af at der lukkes 5 masker af i slutningen af hver mønsterrapport. Jeg kan blive i tvivl om om opskriften er korrekt. Hvordan jeg jeg få hjælp? Kan jeg sende billede til drops?

05.07.2022 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pernille, jo hulmønsteret i kanten bliver små spidser for hver 10.pind hvor man lukker 5 masker af. De 5 masker tages ud på de 4 pinde med hulmønster, det vil sige at diagrammet altid starter med 7 masker og slutter med 12 masker. God fornøjelse!

06.07.2022 - 07:52

country flag Gesine wrote:

Hallo, meine Frage ist: Wenn A1 einmal in der Höhe gestrickt wurde, beginne ich dann wieder mit einer Krausrippe (=2 Reihen rechts ohne Spitzenmuster am Ende), oder lasse ich diese beiden Reihen aus und beginne mit der ersten Reihe, die das Spitzenmuster am Ende hat?

09.04.2021 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gesine, A.1 wird über 10 Reihen gestrickt und wiederhlot, dh nvon der 1. Reihe wieder anfangen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.04.2021 - 13:08

country flag MEUNIER wrote:

Bonjour, J'aimerais réaliser ce boléro mais en coton. Que me conseillez-vous ?

10.11.2019 - 23:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Meunier, vous pouvez utiliser un autre fil du groupe A - utilisez notre convertisseur pour avoir des suggestions. plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Bon tricot!

11.11.2019 - 11:40

country flag Donna wrote:

The pattern is done at the end, not the beginning of the row?

08.10.2019 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, you will work A.1 on each side = over the first 7 + the 7 last stitches on piece, in order to make it same on each side, you work first row in diagram at the end of 1st RS row and at the end of 2nd WS row, ie all rows in pattern with yarn overs and Ktog are worked at the end of the row - see PATTERN. Happy knitting!

08.10.2019 - 17:07

country flag Donna wrote:

Hello, I am beginning this pattern but am a bit confused by this step in the pattern: ( 8 rows (4 ridges) over sts in each side in every repetition.) it is part of the short rows. What does the repetition refer to? and are the side sts, where the new sts were added on? thanks for the help.\'

08.10.2019 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, when you work 1 repeat of the short rows, you repeat from * to *: so that you have worked 6 rows over the middle stitches and 8 rows over the stitches on each side (= short rows, when you work to the marker turn and work return row). Happy knitting!

08.10.2019 - 10:52

country flag CHAMPIGNY wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais savoir combien de fois je dois répéter les rang raccourcis je ne comprend pas très bien. merci de votre réponse

17.04.2018 - 15:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Champigny, une fois que vous avez monté les mailles des manches, vous tricotez A.1 de chaque côté et les rangs raccourcis en même temps jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 71-73-75-77-79-81 cm de hauteur totale depuis le rang de montage (= c'est-à-dire depuis le tout début) - mesurez bien au milieu de l'ouvrage - terminez après un motif A.1 complet en hauteur de chaque côté et rabattez ensuite les mailles des manches de chaque côté et continuez la 2ème manche. Bon tricot!

17.04.2018 - 15:57

country flag Dorothea wrote:

Hallo, eine Frage zu verkürzten Reihen. Lt Anleitung stricke ich nach den Ärmelzunahmen 6 Reihen kraus über alle Maschen und beginne dann mit den verkürzten Reihen: *1. R hin bis Markierung, 2. R zurück bis Ende, 3. R hin über alle Maschen, 4. R zurück bis Markierung, 5. R hin bis Ende = 5 R verkürzt + anschließend 5 R über alle Maschen*. Das ergibt 10 R, doch es heißt dann, es sind 6 R über die Mitte und je 8 R an beiden Seiten = 6+8+8 R = 22 R. Wie komme ich auf die 22 Reihen?

11.04.2018 - 09:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dorothea, wenn Sie von *-* stricken, haben Sie 8 Reihen über die Maschen bis zum Markierer auf beiden Seiten und nur 6 Reihen über die mittleren Maschen: 2 Reihe bis zum 1. Markierer (rechts von der Vorderseite gesehen), 1 Reihe über alle Maschen, 2 Reihe über die Maschen zum Markierer (= links von der Vorderseite gesehen) und 5 Reihe über alle Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.04.2018 - 11:43