DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
DROPS Super Sale

Now and Then

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with lace pattern in ”Delight” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 158-30
DROPS design: Pattern no de-122
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 02, plum/beige/heather
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour no 20, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 6 mm – or size needed to get 15 sts x 32 rows in garter st or 13 sts x 32 rows PATTERN with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 5 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1.
ROW 2 (= WS): K all sts and YO.

SHORT ROWS:
1ST REPETITION: Work short rows on front piece to get a rounded edge on the piece as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work until 3 sts (= 33 sts) remain, turn piece.
ROW 2 and rows from WS: Work back and cast on 1 new st at the end of row.
ROW 3: Work until 6 sts remain, turn piece.
ROW 5: Work until 9 sts remain, turn piece.
ROW 7: Work until 12 sts remain, turn piece.
ROW 9: Work until 15 sts remain, turn piece.
Continue like this by working 3 sts less on every turn, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st at the end of every row from WS until 11 ridges have been worked at the outer edge = 47 sts.
Then work 2 rows PATTERN - see explanation above, over all sts. 11 ridges + 2 rows pattern have been worked at the outer edge and 2 rows pattern at the inner edge.
Continue to cast on 1 new st at the end of every row from WS until 15-21-27-33-39-45 new sts have been cast on in total from beg of 1st repetition = 51-57-63-69-75-81 sts. AT THE SAME TIME continue with short rows as explained below:
2ND AND 3RD REPETITION: Work as 1st repetition but work 1st row over 45-47-41-41-41-41 sts before turning. Continue by working 4 sts less for every turn until 12-14-14-14-14-14 ridges + 2 row in pattern have been worked at the outer edge and 2 rows pattern at the inner edge.
4TH AND 5TH REPETITION: Work as 1st repetition but work 1st row over 48-52-56-60-68-72 sts. Continue by working 4 sts less for every turn until 12-13-14-15-16-17 ridges + 2 row in pattern have been worked at the outer edge and 2 rows pattern at the inner edge.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from the marker in the side):
SIZE S: 6, 11, 16, 21 and 26 cm
SIZE M: 6, 12, 17, 23 and 28 cm
SIZE L: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 30 cm
SIZE XL: 7, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm
SIZE XXL: 7, 14, 20, 27 and 34 cm
SIZE XXXL: 8, 15, 22, 29 and 36 cm

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 46-52-56-62-72-78 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above (1st row = RS).
Then work as follows: * 2 rows PATTERN – see explanation above, 2 ridges *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2-3-3-3-3-4 cm, inc 1 st in each side every 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm 3 times in total = 52-58-62-68-78-84 sts. Work the inc sts gradually in the pattern. K the sts that do not fit the pattern. When piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm, cast on new sts for sleeves in each side as follows: 1 sts 8 times and 10-9-8-7-4-2 sts 1 time = 88-92-94-98-102-104 sts. When piece measures 27-29-31-33-35-37 cm, continue with pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME work in garter st over the middle 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts. Continue to work like this until piece measures 29-31-33-35-37-39 cm. On next row cast off the middle 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts for neck = 38-40-40-42-43-44 sts remain on shoulder/sleeve. Then finish each shoulder separately. Continue with the outermost 4 sts in towards the neck in garter st. Work until piece measures approx. 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm - adjust so that 1 ridge have been worked after 2 rows with pattern and then LOOSELY cast off.
Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed.

RIGHT EDGE PIECE/FRONT PIECE:
Work sideways from mid back, work short rows to get a rounded front edge, then work front piece with dec inside band.
Cast on 36 sts in all sizes on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work in garter st back and forth (1st row = RS). When piece measures 1-3-3-5-8-2 cm, continue as follows: * 2 rows pattern, 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm in garter st *, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-2-3 time in total, then work 2 rows pattern. Piece now measures approx. 18-20-22-24-27-30 cm.
Then work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above (1st row = RS). After short rows there are 51-57-63-69-75-81 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker in the side – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work 2 ridges, then work as follows: * 2 rows in pattern but work the outermost 5 sts towards mid front in garter st (= band), 2 ridges over all sts *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st inside the 5 band sts – READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec approx. every 1-1-1-½-½-½ cm 22-25-29-32-34-36 more times (= 23-26-30-33-35-37 dec in total towards band). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2-3-3-3-3-4 cm, inc 1 st in the side (i.e. at the end of row from RS) every 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm 3 times in total. Remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above. When piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm, cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of row from RS as follows: 1 st 8 times and 10-9-8-7-4-2 sts 1 time. NOTE: K the sts that do not fit the pattern towards the sleeve. When all inc and dec are done, there are 49-51-52-54-55-57 sts on needle. When piece measures 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm, work in garter st over the first 15-15-16-16-16-17 sts. When piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm, cast off the first 11-11-12-12-12-13 sts from RS. Continue with 4 sts in garter st in towards the neck and pattern over the remaining 34-36-36-38-39-40 sts on shoulder/sleeve as before. Work until piece measures approx. 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm - adjust according to back piece and LOOSELY cast off.

LEFT EDGE PIECE/FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right edge piece/front piece but reversed. I.e. before short rows beg, K 1 row from RS, then work short rows, beg from WS (instead of RS). After short rows inc in the side as of right front piece but at the end of row from WS (instead of at the end of row from RS). Do not dec for buttonholes. Cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of row from WS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew underarm and side seams (front pieces and back piece) in one in outer loops of edge sts (sew A against A and B against B – see chart).
Sew cast-on edge on right and left edge piece tog mid back in outer loops of cast-on edge. Then sew them to bottom edge on back piece. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg at the top of side seam and pick up 46-48-52-55-57-60 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) around the sleeve opening. Work in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above! When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece by K 2 tog. Repeat dec every 3-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm 5-5-6-7-8-9 more times = 34-36-38-39-39-40 sts. Loosely cast off when sleeve measures 25 cm. Sew underarm seam inside 1 edge st. Knit another sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Marie wrote:

Oui mais ce que vous dites c’est bien pour la seconde Série ou on fait encore dix augmentations mais pour la troisième série, celle dont je vous parle, plus d’augmentations à faire.\r\nJe laisse pr le série 3 il ne faudrait pas tricoter sur 47 m mais sur 56. Séries 4 et 5 pas de problème. Merci pr vos tête. Je ne vais pas recommencer une 3eme fs. MERCI 🙏

29.01.2024 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, ces 47 mailles ne concernent que la 2ème série, à la 3ème série, vous tricotez toutes les mailles moins les 4 dernières, de même pour la 4ème et la 5ème, au début de la 4ème, vous tricotez les 52 premières mailles, mais au début de la 5ème série, vous tricoterez toutes les mailles moins les 4 dernières. Bon tricot!

30.01.2024 - 08:08

country flag Marie wrote:

Ce vous m’écrivez je l’ai fait pr la2e série 47 m. et on augmenté de 10 m. on a donc 57 m. et 21 augm. là c’est bon mais après la 3è série on a bien au 52 m.plus d’aug à faire et il faut travailler sur 47m. et on ne peut pas faire 14 côtes car 14 × 4 ça fait 56 m et on n’en a que 47 ! Séries 4 et 5 c’est bien, on travaille sur 52 m. et faire 13 côtes 13x4= 52

26.01.2024 - 11:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre vos calculs, désolée. Au 1er rang sur l'endroit, vous tricotez 47mailles, au 1er rang sur l'envers, vous augmentez = 48 m, au 2ème rang sur l'endroit, vous tricotez 4 m en moins = 48-3=45, au 3ème rang, vous augmentez 1 m = 46 m et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez augmenté votre bon nombre de mailles sur l'envers et tricotez 4 mailles en moins à la fin de chaque rang sur l'endroit, vous devez voir le bon nombre de mailles et de côtes mousse. Bon tricot!

29.01.2024 - 11:15

country flag Marie wrote:

Je ne me fais pas bien comprendre. 1e et 2 è séries TB, on fait les 21 aug.mais à partir de la série3 , plus d’augm. ! et donc impossible de faire 14 rangs sur 47 m en ôtant 4m. Soit on travaille sur 47 m. et on enlève 3m. (3x14=42). Soit on travaille sur 52m.comme aux séries 4 et 5, là ça va. À partir de série trois, on a 47 m.on enlève 4m. à chq fs, on ne fait que 12 côtes, 12 A et R, LOGIQUE. Pour moi il y a une erreur quelque part . Merci ☺️

25.01.2024 - 22:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, le 1er rang se tricote sur l'endroit sur 47 m, puis vous augmentez 1 m à la fin du rang suivant sur l'envers et tricotez 4 m en moins à la fin de chaque rang sur l'endroit, autrement dit, vous allez augmenter encore 10 mailles au total et tricoter 13 x 4 mailles en moins soit: 47+10-52=5 mailles au tout dernier rang raccourci. Bon tricot!

26.01.2024 - 08:06

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour j’ai bien mes 21 augm. et 57 m. comme je vous précise mais pour la 2è et 3è séries c’est écrit tricoter le 1er rang sur 47 m. avt de tourner. Continuer en tricotant 4 m. en moins à chaque fs jusqu’à 14 côtes mousse et c’est là mon problème ! Je n’arrive pas à avoir 14 côtes mais seulement 12 !! Et les réponses reçues ne m’éclairent pas. Mais je vous remercie pr vos retours.

25.01.2024 - 09:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, les rangs raccourcis se font sur l'endroit, ainsi, vous tricotez 47 mailles au 1er rang sur l'endroit, mais vous augmentez sur l'envers = vous aurez ainsi 48 mailes et plus 47 et ainsi de suite. Autrement dit, on tricote moins de mailles en fin de rang sur l'endroit et on augmente le nombre de mailles en fin de rang sur l'envers. Exactement comme vous avez fait pour la 1ère partie des rangs raccourcis. Bon tricot!

25.01.2024 - 10:23

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai bien fait la série 1, série2, j’en suis à la série 3 sur 47 mailles (57 entour Augustin. finies) je n’arrive pas à 14 côtes puisqu’on travaille sur 47,43, 39, 35,31, 27, 23,19, 15,11, 7,3 mailles et quand il me reste 3 mailles, ça me fait 12 côtes et non 14 côtes ! Je n’arrête pas de faire, défaire, j’ai fait le 1er côté sans doute mal ? Je reste bloquée . Merci pour votre aide

24.01.2024 - 14:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, dans votre décompte, vous ne comptez pas les augmentations faites en fin de rang sur l'envers, raison pour laquelle votre nombre de mailles diminue trop vite, vous devez continuer à augmenter 1 maille en fin de rang sur l'envers (comme vous l'avez fait pour la 1ère série des rangs raccourcis) jusqu'à ce que vous ayez augmenté 21 m au total et que vous ayez 57 mailles sur l'aiguille (y compris les mailles non tricotées pour les rangs raccourcis); Bon tricot!

25.01.2024 - 08:20

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, quand vous parlez de 2 rangs fantaisie a t-on 2 rgs ? ( le Rg 1 + le Rg 2 ou 4 rgs ? ( 2 GS le point fantaisie ??\\r\\nEt après ce ou ces rgs fantaisie passe t-on de suite au rg raccourci de la série ? Ou faisons nous une côte ?\\r\\nJe crois qu’il ne faut pas de rg côte ? \\r\\nJe vais devoir tout défaire encore une fois ! Merci 🙏 \\r\\nJ’y suis depuis 3 semaines tant je fais et défais !😞

23.01.2024 - 12:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, les 2 rangs du point fantaisie sont les 2 rangs décrits sous POINT FANTAISIE. Quand ces 2 rangs sont tricotés après la 1ère série des rangs raccourcis, on fait la 2ème série de rangs raccourcis (en commençant sur 47 m), et en augmentant en même temps sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

24.01.2024 - 07:55

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, Je vous remercie pour votre réponse mais oui j’ai bien 57 mailles mais on nous dit de faire 14 côtes en commençant les rangs raccourcis sur 47 mail, je n’y arrive pas, ça ne me fait que 14 côtes ( coté gauche, 1er rang point fantaisie à faire sur l’envers) d’ailleurs différent que lorsqu’il est fait sur l’endroit). Merci beaucoup.

23.01.2024 - 09:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, sur l'envers, sur l'endroit, vous tricotez 4 mailles en moins et sur l'envers vous augmentez le nombre de mailles, donc vous pourrez tricoter vos 14 côtes mousse car le nombre de mailles augmente progressivement. Bon tricot!

24.01.2024 - 07:25

country flag Marie wrote:

Je n’arrive pas pour la série 2 côté gauche taille M comment sur 47 mailles faire 14 Côtes, je ne peux en avoir que 12 j’ai fait et défait je ne sais combien de fois j’ai fait les dessins, impossible pour moi Merci

22.01.2024 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, n'oubliez pas que vous devez augmenter 1 maille à la fin de chaque rang sur l'envers jusqu'à ce que vous ayez monté 21 mailles au total depuis le début de la 1ère série, autrement dit jusqu'à ce qu'il y ait un total de 57 mailles sur l'aiguille (y compris les mailles en attente). Bon tricot!

23.01.2024 - 07:37

country flag Ewa wrote:

W rzędach skróconych w 3 serii nie można wykonać 14 rzędów po 4 oczka mniej zaczynając od 41 oczek bo 14x4=56. to chyba jakis błąd?

10.09.2022 - 00:20

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ewo, zgadzam się z Tobą. Już to wyjaśniam, proszę tylko o chwilę cierpliwości. Pozdrawiamy!

14.09.2022 - 07:50

country flag Eveline wrote:

Bonjour, je tricote la veste mais je ne comprends ps le décompte des séries. Pour moi, il n'y a que 3 séries : série 1, série 2 et 3 puis série 4 et 5. D'autre part comment faire point fantaisie sur bord extérieur et intérieur ? pour moi tout est sur le même rang ? Merci pour votre réponse

23.10.2021 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Eveline, les rangs raccourcis se tricotent sur 5 séries comme expliqué. Les rangs en point fantaisie se tricotent sur toutes les mailles, ex; dans la 1ère série, vous tricotez les rangs raccourcis jusqu'à ce 11 côtes mousse ont été tricotées, puis vous tricotez 2 rangs point fantaisie sur toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!

02.11.2021 - 13:08