Taking Flight

Crochet baby slippers with bow and fan edge in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size 0 - 4 years.

DROPS Baby 25-15
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-011-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 9-10-11-12 (14-15) cm / 3½”-4”-4½”-4¾” (5½”-6”)

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 1306, powder
50 g for all sizes in color no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 24 sc/dc = width 4’’ (10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round/row with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 sc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round/row with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 dc in ch from beg of previous row.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc/dc by working 2 sc/dc in same st.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 sc/dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc/dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 sc/dc dec.

CROCHET TIP:
On the round after dc at the front of slipper have been worked tog 2 by 2, work somewhat tightly at the front of slipper, i.e. tighten the yarn a little between every dc when working. This is done to avoid a loose mid piece at the front of slipper.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

TEXTURE ROWS:
* 1 row sc (worked from WS), 1 row dc (worked from RS) *, repeat from *-* (1 row sc + 1 row dc = 1 texture row).
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SLIPPER:
READ CROCHET INFO and beg with sole - NOTE: Work in every st (not between sts).
Ch 12-14-16-19 (25-28) (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm / C with powder.
Work first row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 10-12-14-17 (23-26) ch = 11-13-15-18 (24-27) sc, turn piece.
Then work 1 sc in every sc from previous row while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sc at beg and end of first row by working 3 sc in first and last sc on row = 15-17-19-22 (28-31) sc.
Work sc back and forth until 1 row remains before piece measures 3-3-4-4 (4½-5) cm / 1”-1”-1½”-1½” (1¾”-2”). Now dec 2 sc in each side - READ DECREASE TIP = 11-13-15-18 (24-27) sc on row – NOTE: At the end of row beg dec when 4 sc remain, then work the last 4 sc tog 2 by 2. Piece measures approx. 3-3-4-4 (4½-5) cm / 1”-1”-1½”-1½” (1¾”-2”). Fasten off.

Then work dc around the sole as follows:
ROUND 1: Beg mid back (= mid of one short side) - Work 1 sc in first st, 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1-1-2-2 (3-3) dc until corner, 2 dc in the corner, 1 dc in each of the 11-13-15-18 (24-27) sc along the side, 2 dc in the corner, 4-4-6-6 (8-8) dc along short side (= toe), 2 dc in the corner, 11-13-15-18 (24-27) dc along the side, 2 dc in the corner and 2-2-3-3 (4-4) dc along short side until mid back, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 38-42-50-56 (72-78) dc.

NEXT ROUND IN SIZE 2 YEARS + 3/4 YEARS (do not work this round in the other sizes):
Work 1 round with 1 dc in every dc = (72-78) dc.
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS IN ALL SIZES:
Work 1 dc in every dc but dec 1 dc in each of the 2 corners at the front on toe – READ DECREASE TIP = 36-40-48-54 (70-76) dc.
THEN WORK AS FOLLOWS FROM MID BACK (work 1 st in every st from previous round):
ROUND 1: 12-14-17-20 (27-30) sc, 1 hdc, work 2 dc tog – READ DECREASE TIP, 6-6-8-8 (10-10) dc, work 2 dc tog, 1 hdc and 12-14-17-20 (27-30) sc = 34-38-46-52 (68-74) sts.
ROUND 2: 11-13-16-19 (26-29) sc, 1 hdc, work 2 dc tog, 6-6-8-8 (10-10) dc, work 2 dc tog, 1 hdc and 11-13-16-19 (26-29) sc = 32-36-44-50 (66-72) sts.
ROUND 3: 10-12-15-18 (25-28) sc, 1 hdc, work 2 dc tog, 6-6-8-8 (10-10) dc, work 2 dc tog, 1 hdc and 10-12-15-18 (25-28) sc = 30-34-42-48 (64-70) sts.
4TH ROUND IN SIZE 2 YEARS + 3/4 YEARS (do not work this round in the other sizes): (24-27) sc, 1 hdc, work 2 dc tog, (10-10) dc, work 2 dc tog, 1 hdc and (24-27) sc = (62-68) sts.
5TH ROUND IN SIZE 3/4 YEARS (do not work this round in the other sizes): (26) sc, 1 hdc, work 2 dc tog, (10) dc, work 2 dc tog, 1 hdc and (26) sc = (66) sts.

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS IN ALL SIZES:
9-11-14-17 (23-25) sc, 1 hdc, work the next 10-10-12-12 (14-14) dc tog 2 by 2, 1 hdc and 9-11-14-17 (23-25) sc = 25-29-36-42 (55-59) sts.

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS IN ALL SIZES:
READ CROCHET TIP and work 7-9-12-15 (21-23) sc, 1 hdc, work 2 dc tog, 5-5-6-6 (7-7) dc, work 2 dc tog, 1 hdc and 7-9-12-15 (21-23) sc = 23-27-34-40 (53-57) sts.

WORK NEXT ROUND IN SIZE 2 YEARS + 3/4 YEARS AS FOLLOWS (do not work this round in the other sizes): (20-21) sc, 1 hdc, work 2 dc tog, (7-7) dc, work 2 dc tog, 1 hdc and (20-21) sc = (51-55) sts.

ALL SIZES:
= 23-27-34-40 (51-55) sts. Work 1-1-1-2 (2-3) rounds with 1 dc in every st while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 24-24-30-30 (36-36) dc on 1st round - READ INCREASE TIP/DECREASE TIP – Note: If a larger opening on the slipper is desired, adjust no of sts to desired size, but because of fan pattern the no of sts must be divisible by 6.

FAN PATTERN:
Switch to off white and work 1 round sc with 1 sc in every st.
Then work Fan pattern at the top of leg according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: * ch 3, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8-8-10-10 (12-12) ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work sl st in the middle of first ch-space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), * 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 4-4-5-5 (6-6) fans.
ROUND 3: ch 3 (= 1 dc), * 4 dc + 2 ch + 4 dc in ch-space in the mid of dc-group, 1 dc in next dc from previous round (i.e. in dc between fans) *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round, fasten off.
Work another slipper the same way.

BOW:
Ch 11 on hook size 3 mm / C with off white.
Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch = 9 dc on row. Turn piece and work TEXTURE ROWS - see explanation above, back and forth until piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4’’ – finish after 1 row with sc. Fasten off.
Sew short sides tog to form a ring and twine some yarn around the mid of bow to tighten it neatly in the middle.
Work another bow the same way and fasten each bow on the outside of slipper.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = 1 dc
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Ines wrote:

Hallo... inzwischen bin ich, dank Ihrer raschen Beantwortung meiner Fragen, beinahe mit dem ersten Babyschühchen fertig; allerdings könnten Sie mir bitte noch einmal behilflich sein an der folgenden Stelle: ALLE GRÖSSEN kurz vor der Stelle ABNAHME bzw. BEMERKUNG. Dort heißt es: 23-27-34-40-51-55 M. 1-1-1-2(2-3) Rd mit 1 Stb. in jedes Stb. häkeln und dabei die Stb. Zahl verringern. Wie arbeite ich bitte diese Runde korrekt? Danke

07.09.2023 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ines, bei der 1. Reihe sollen Sie dann regelmäßig verteilt entweder zu- oder abnehmen (je nach der Größe), damit Sie die richtige Maschenanzahl am Ende dieser Runde haben; dann wenn Sie mehr als 1 Runde häkeln sollen, häkeln Sie 1 Stäbchen in jedes Stäbchen (keine Zu- bzw Abnahmen mehr). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.09.2023 - 16:56

country flag Ines wrote:

Hallo... ich hab noch eine Frage: auf welcher Seite müsste denn bei mir dann der Anfangsfaden sein? Ich bin Linkshänderin, deshalb die Frage... und bis wohin soll ich häkeln, bevor die Arbeit 3 bzw. 4 cm misst? Ich begreife es nicht so recht..

06.09.2023 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ines, leider haben wir keine Linkshänderin bei uns, aber häkeln Sie einfach wie üblig wie noch 1 Reihe übrig ist, vor die Arbeit 3 bzw 4 cm misst. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

06.09.2023 - 16:09

country flag Ines wrote:

Hallo, was genau meinen Sie bitte mit der Angabe: feste Maschen in Hin- und Rückreihen häkeln, bis nur noch eine Reihe zu häkeln ist, bevor es 3 bzw. 4 cm misst? Das verstehe ich nicht so ganz... ich freu mich auf Ihre Erläuterung

06.09.2023 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ines, häkeln Sie feste Maschen bis die Arbeit 1 Reihe vor 3 bzw 4 cm misst - dh mit dieser nächsten Reihe wird die Arbeit insgesamt 3 bzw 4 cm messen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

06.09.2023 - 16:07

country flag Amélie wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai réussi à crocheter le chausson, mais le rendu n'est pas très joli, il n'y a pas d'alignement des espaces, sortes de jetés ,formant de petits "trous" bien alignés comme sur la photo. Pouvez vous me préciser comment faire pour que ces petits espaces soient bien alignés . Ils résultent sans doute des diminutions. Quelle est l'astuce à suivre. Je vous en remercie

21.07.2023 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Amélie, les diminutions doivent joliment s'aligner les unes au-dessus des autres, on va diminuer de part et d'autre des 6-6-8-8 (10-10) brides du milieu (dessus du pied). Bon crochet!

27.07.2023 - 11:40

country flag Lise wrote:

Is dit wel het juiste patroon voor slofjes 'taking flight'? En niet eigenlijk voor 'baby steps'? Ik lees in het patroon dat er vasten worden gehaakt aan de zijkanten van de slof omhoog maar op de foto zie ik alleen stokjes. Zou heel graag de slofjes willen maken zoals op de foto

05.05.2023 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lise,

De zool van de slofjes wordt met vasten gehaakt, daarna ga je verder met stokjes.

08.05.2023 - 20:48

country flag Dea wrote:

Per me hanno invertito il numero delle catenelle nelle frasi " Finire ogni riga con 1 m.b nella 3a cat dall’inizio della riga precedente." e "Finire ogni riga con 1 m.a nella cat all’inizio della riga precedente.", perchè tenendo presente che le righe a mb iniziano con 1 cat mentre quelle a m.a iniziano con 3 cat...penso che l'errore sia dalla spiegazione norvegese,

05.06.2022 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea, abbiamo chiesto una verifica: se ci dovessero essere modifiche, troverà il modello aggiornato direttamente online. Buon lavoro!

06.06.2022 - 22:46

country flag Dea wrote:

Ho bisogno un chiarimento. Nelle informazioni per il lavoro c'è scritto:"Sostituire la prima m.b all’inizio di ogni riga/giro di m.b con 1 cat. Finire ogni giro con 1 m.bss nella cat all’inizio del giro. Finire ogni riga con 1 m.b nella 3a cat dall’inizio della riga precedente." La prima parte l'ho capita, ma la seconda no. Dice di finire la riga di m.b. con 1 m.b. nella 3a cat dall'inizio della riga di 3 maglie.Dove dovrei farla?

05.06.2022 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea, abbiamo chiesto una verifica: se ci dovessero essere modifiche, troverà il modello aggiornato direttamente online. Buon lavoro!

06.06.2022 - 22:45

country flag Dea wrote:

E' possibile fare un video con la realizzazione del modello? Grazie.

05.06.2022 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea, abbiamo inoltrato la sua richiesta al settore design. Buon lavoro!

06.06.2022 - 22:39

country flag Margreet wrote:

INFORMATIE VOOR HET HAKEN: Vervang eerste v aan begin van elke v toer door 1 l, eindig toer met 1 v in 3e l van begin van vorige toer. Vervang eerste stk aan begin van elke stk toer door 3 l, eindig toer met 1 stk in l van begin van vorige toer. Deze tekst klopt niet :)

22.12.2021 - 08:51

country flag Johanna wrote:

"Vervang eerste v aan begin van elke v toer door 1 l, eindig toer met 1 v in 3e l van begin van vorige toer. Vervang eerste stk aan begin van elke stk toer door 3 l, eindig toer met 1 stk in l van begin van vorige toer." Dit lijkt me fout. het gedeelte na de komma van de eerste zin hoort bij het gedeelte voor de komma van de tweede zin, en andersom.

04.06.2020 - 14:50