DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Super Sale

Tinkerbell

Knitted DROPS top with wave pattern and round yoke in "Cotton Viscose" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 155-32
DROPS design: Pattern no n-159
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-96-106-120-132 cm / 31½''-35½''-37 3/4''-41 3/4''-47 1/4''-52''
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
250-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 27, lilac
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color no 03, light pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm / US 8 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6 – for garter st.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 - for edge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
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TOP:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 153-170-187-204-221-238 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Cotton Viscose and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. On next round work PATTERN according to diagram A.1 (= 17 sts) 9-10-11-12-13-14 times in width. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-6-11-10-7-4 sts evenly on round = 148-164-176-194-214-234 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece, 74-82-88-97-107-117 sts apart. Continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', dec 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 dec). Repeat dec every 2 cm / 3/4'' 4 more times (= 5 dec in total) = 128-144-156-174-194-214 sts. When piece measures 23 cm / 9'', inc 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'' = 136-152-164-182-202-222 sts.
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', work next round as follows: bind off 8 sts in each side for armholes (bind off 4 sts on each side of every marker) = 120-136-148-166-186-206 sts remain on needle. On next round cast on 48-50-54-56-60-64 new sts over the 8 bind off sts = 216-236-256-278-306-334 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Then work in garter st until finished. Work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 20-20-20-22-30-38 sts evenly = 196-216-236-256-276-296 sts.
Now insert 9 markers in the piece as follows: 21-24-28-32-32-32 sts, insert a marker here, 21-24-26-28-32-33 sts, insert a marker here, 22-24-26-28-32-33 sts, insert a marker here, then insert the next 6 markers 22-24-26-28-30-33 sts apart. Continue in garter st until finished measurements, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st alternately on right and left side of markers as follows:
Size S-M-L: Every 6th round: 6-4-0 times and then every 4th round: 7-11-17 times
Size XL-XXL-XXXL: Every 4th round: 17-17-17 times and then every other round: 2-4-6 times.
After all dec are done, 79-81-83-85-87-89 sts remain on needle. Work 1 ridge and bind off.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the opening on sleeve on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with 2 strands Kid-Silk as follows: * 1 sc, ch 3, skip approx. ½ cm / 1/4'' *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc on round.
Crochet the same way around the neck opening and at the bottom of top.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (55)

country flag Nana wrote:

Ik maakte dit truitje en ben heel tevreden over het resultaat ! Danku Garnstudio! Ik ondervond geen problemen in het breien ervan!

16.08.2019 - 16:43

country flag Kristin Ebeling wrote:

Hej, När man maskat av 8 masker för ärmhål så ska man lägga upp 50 masker för stl Medium, på nästa varv ska man jämt fördelat minska 20 masker, ska dessa minskade masker även minskas på de masker man precis lagt upp? Eller ska de bara minskas på fram och bakstycket?

30.06.2016 - 07:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Du minskar de jämnt fördelat över alla maskor. Lycka till!

01.07.2016 - 08:20

country flag Jolanda wrote:

Vraag deel 2 Na de armsgaten gemaakt te hebben, verder breien tot het werk klaar is, nog 18 cm voor een maat S ? Daarna kom ik in de knoop met het plaatsen van de 9 markers, ik neem aan dat ik het eerste rijtje zou moeten aanhouden, waar de 21,24,26,28,32,32,32 steken een marker moet, voor het minderen voor de hals. Kan iemand mij hier verder mee helpen ? mvgr. Jolanda

23.10.2015 - 23:30

DROPS Design answered:

En voor vraag 2: Ja, de hoogte van het armsgat is ca 18 cm. Je hebt 196 st op de nld, dan begin je met het plaatsen met de markeerders, precies zoals er staat: na 21 st, plaats m1 (markeerder 1), tel 21 st, plaats m2, tel 22 st en plaats m3, vanaf hier tel je dan 22 st tussen elk st. Het aantal st die je noemt is voor elke maat.

29.10.2015 - 14:08

country flag Jolanda wrote:

Hoi, volgens mij klopt het patroon niet geheel. Volgens het patroon, zou je aan de bovenkant beginnen, maar je begint aan de onderkant. Als ik maat S wil breien en heb 1 keer het telpatroon gebreid, zou ik 5 steken moeten minder, dan volgens het patroon hem nog 8 keer moeten breien, maar dan hou ik steken over, voor telpatroon. Op de foto staat het maar 3 keer gebreid. Alvast bedankt. mvgr. Jolanda

23.10.2015 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jolanda. Je breit van beneden naar boven, de titel van BOVENKANT is een vertaalfoutje - het moet inderdaad gewoon TOP zijn. Je breit het telpatroon A.1 één keer (dus 3 rijen kantpatroon), er staat nergens dat je het weer moet herhalen. Je breit door in tricotsteek en mindert aan de zijkanten zoals vermeld.

29.10.2015 - 14:01

country flag Olga Viñas wrote:

En las disminuciones finales si se teje en redondo solo hay que disminuir cada x vueltas ¿es así?

25.03.2015 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Olga. Así es. Todo el jersey se teje en redondo. Las dism se trabajan por el LD cada 6ª o 4ª vta según la talla.

26.03.2015 - 09:05

country flag Concha Díaz wrote:

Hola soy Concha me encanta éste patrón pero tengo una duda. En las disminuciones finales ¿qué diferencia hay entre disminuir cada X vueltas y cada X filas??? No entiendo porque al tejer en circular serían vueltas. Gracias.

29.12.2014 - 01:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Concha. Cuando se comienza y termina en el mismo pt usamos la palabra "vuelta" y si se empieza y termina en extremos opuestos decimos "fila". Siempre que tejemos en circular usamos la palabra "vuelta" por esta razón. Por lo demás no habría diferencia.

01.01.2015 - 11:25

country flag Katharina wrote:

Hallo, kann es möglich sein, dass das Garn sehr dehnbar ist? Ich habe mich an alle Vorgaben gehalten, aber der Pullover ist viel zu weit geworden schon nach dem ersten Musterrapport. Ich stricke auch nicht zu locker. Was muss ich beachten, damit es kein Oversize-Pulli wird? Danke.

20.12.2014 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, hat denn Ihre Maschenprobe gestimmt? Dann sollte es eigentlich passen. Dehnbar ist der obere Teil mit den Krausrippen, daher sollten Sie die Maschenprobe auch leicht gedeht messen, insbesondere die Reihen. Der untere Rand ist ja etwas weiter und soll "rüschig" fallen.

21.12.2014 - 17:21

country flag Mien wrote:

Rundfelling: Skal det felles 1 maske til høyre for merketråd og så 6 omg, to sammen til venstre og 6 omg. skal det være to masker strikket sammen både til høyre og til venstre, eller skal den ene masken løftes over den andre?

06.07.2014 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mien. Du strikker 2 ret sammen og du strikker først sammen til højre for merketråden, strik 5 omgange og i 6. omg strikker du sammen til venstre, så til højre osv.

21.07.2014 - 17:10

country flag Tone Britt wrote:

Hei, Er det riktig at det skal felles til ermhull etter 39 cm i str M? Synes det ser så kort ut i forhold til modellen på bildet.

25.06.2014 - 14:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tone. Ja, det er korrekt. Hele höyden paa M incl baerestykket skal vaere 58 cm.

25.06.2014 - 17:04

country flag Doris Holley wrote:

Help! I am at the part where you add stitches at the armhole and switch to size 6 needles, then work in garter stitch until finished. Finished What?? the row?? the whole top?? How many more inches or rows before I decrease? Thank you. I love this pattern

24.06.2014 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Holley, you continue in garter st until finished measurements. Happy knitting!

24.06.2014 - 18:38