DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Malena

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern and raglan in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 155-22
DROPS design: Pattern no e-223
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S /M - L /XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
300-350-400 g colour no 17, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th marker as follows:
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back. Cast on 224-280-336 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Safran. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST over all sts – see explanation above, then work A.1 (= 14 sts) over all sts (= 16-20-24 repetitions in width). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 32 cm, adjust so that next round is 13th or 27th round in diagram A.1, work as follows: A.1 over the first 52-66-80 sts (NOTE: Work in stocking st over the last st, not K 2 tog as in diagram), cast off the next 8 sts (= the last 4 and first 4 sts in A.1), beg A.1 after 4 sts in diagram (NOTE: Do not K 2 tog and 1 YO as in diagram) and work A.1 over the next 104-132-160 sts (NOTE: Work in stocking st over the last st, not K 2 tog as in diagram), cast off the next 8 sts (= the last 4 and first 4 sts in A.1), beg A.1 after 4 sts in diagram (NOTE: Do not K 2 tog and 1 YO over the first 4 sts as in diagram) and work A.1 over the last 52-66-80 sts. 8 sts cast off in each side of piece and 208-264-320 sts remain on needle.

SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 86-100-114 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm with Safran. Work 2 ridges, then work as follows - from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, A.1 (= 14 sts) over the next 84-98-112 sts and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work the first 13 rows 1 more time AT THE SAME TIME on last row cast off 5 sts (incl 1 edge st) in each side of piece (NOTE: work in stocking st over the last st in A.1 while casting off sts) = 76-90-104 sts on needle. Cut and fasten the yarn.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle 3 mm as body = 360-444-528 sts. Work as follows, beg mid back on 14th round: A.1 (= 14 sts) over the next 42-56-70 sts, A.2 (= 10 sts) AT THE SAME TIME insert 1st marker after 9 sts, A.3 (= 10 sts) AT THE SAME TIME insert 2nd marker after 1 st (= 2 sts between markers), A.1 over the next 56-70-84 sts, A.2 AT THE SAME TIME insert 3rd marker after 9 sts, A.3 AT THE SAME TIME insert 4th marker after 1 st (= 2 sts between markers), A.1 over the next 84-112-140 sts, A.2 AT THE SAME TIME insert 5th marker after 9 sts, A.3 AT THE SAME TIME insert 6th marker after 1 st (= 2 sts between markers), A.1 over the next 56-70-84 sts, A.2 AT THE SAME TIME insert 7th marker after 9 sts, A.3 AT THE SAME TIME insert 8th markers after 1 st (= 2 sts between markers), A.1 over the last 42-56-70 sts. Continue this pattern AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan – see DECREASE TIP- as follows: Dec 1 st before 1st, 3rd, 5th and 7th marker and 1 st after 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th marker every other round (= 8 sts dec) 28-35-42 times in total = 136-164-192 sts remain on needle. Work 2 ridges in garter st over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on next to last round dec 20-40-58 sts evenly = 116-124-134 sts. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY: Sew tog the openings under the sleeves and sleeve seams.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 155-22

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Ela wrote:

Uważam ten top za jeden z najpiękniejszych, zrobilam biały 2 lata temu i ciągle mi się podoba, będą robić czarny, polecam, pieknie leży, jest lekko luźny, rekawki nie są przylegające, warto zrobić trochę większy. Piękny ażur.

07.08.2022 - 08:37

country flag Annie Kuijpers wrote:

Ik begrijp niets van de afmetingen. Er wordt in het patroon maar 1 keer een hoogte in cm aangegeven en dat is voor het lijf bij 32 cm afkanten voor de mouwinzet maar als je de verschillende afmetingen leest in het patroon dan moeten de verschillende lijflengtes 54-58-62 cm zijn! Moet jezelf de verschillende lengtes van lijf/mouwen opmeten en zolang breien tot je die bereikt hebt? Meestal staat er in een patroon tot hoeveel cm je moet breien bij de verschillende maten!

02.05.2021 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annie,

De totale lengte van het lijf is inderdaad 54-58-62, maar de lengte van de opzet tot waar je afkant voor de mouw, dus de oksel is korter.

05.05.2021 - 09:08

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Ist es möglich den Pulli In Runden zu stricken also in ranglan.

07.05.2019 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Yvonne, der Pulli wird hier in Runden gestrickt, zuerst stricken Sie Rumpfteill bis zum Armlöcher, dann legen Sie die Arbeit still und stricken die beiden Ärmel, dann wird die Passe in Runden gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.05.2019 - 07:27

country flag Mary Meier-Roeder wrote:

Ich habe 2 mal eine Maschenprobe sticky. State makes mit 3.5 mm Rundnadel und ich kam auf 10x9 cm. Dann habe ich es probiert mit eine 3.0 mm Rundstricknadel und habe 9x9 cm bekommen. Was mache ich hier falsch? Sind 24 Maschen wirklick korrekt?

25.02.2019 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Meier-Roeder, es sieht so aus, daß Sie die richtige Maschenprobe in der Breite mit der Nadeln 3,5 mm haben, versuchen Sie die Maschen etwas höher zu stricken - Gerne können Sie Ihre Maschenprobe mal waschen und blockieren, um zu prüfen, welchen Nadel am besten passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.02.2019 - 16:09

country flag Vali wrote:

Bonjour, ce point est affreux à faire. Après de nombreux essais ça ne donne rien de beau. Dommage car le pull est mignon.

23.02.2019 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Vali, lisez-vous bien les diagrammes comme il le faut? A.1 se tricote en rond en se répétant tout simplement en largeur, commencez à lire les diagrammes en bas à droite et lisez tous les rangs de droite à gauche (on tricote ici en rond). Quand vous tricoterez A.2 et A.3 veillez bien à ajuster le rang comme il faut pour que les rangs ajourés de chaque diagramme se tricotent tous sur le même rang. Bon tricot!

25.02.2019 - 12:33

country flag Ele wrote:

Guten Tag, die Ärmel möchte ich in Runden stricken. Wie füge ich dann die Ärmel in das Rumpfteil ein und mit welcher Musterfolge? Ist das möglich? Danke für die Antwort. Viele Grüße Ele

23.04.2018 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ele, um die Ärmel in der Runde zu stricken, würde ich einfach die beiden Randmaschen nicht anschlagen und Muster stricken wie beschrieben. Dann die Ärmel wie in diesem Video mit dem Rumpfteil auf die Nadel nehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.04.2018 - 08:46

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonjour, j'en suis à "à 32 cm de hauteur totale ajuster pour que le tour suivant soit le 13ème tour du diagramme". Je tombe sur un rang n°2. Dois-je diminuer de quelques rangs (et avoir un pull un peu court) ou tricoter jusqu'au 13ème rang au risque de ne pas avoir assez de fil pour finir le pull ? Merci.

16.03.2018 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, vous devez ajuster après le 13ème ou le 27ème rang de A.1, ainsi vous pouvez arrêter après un motif complet en hauteur soit les 27 rangs, sans en recommencer un nouveau. Bon tricot!

16.03.2018 - 09:52

country flag Valérie wrote:

BOnjour, merci de votre réponse mais je ne suis pas d'accord. Les manches doivent se tricoter en aller retours donc si je monte les mailles comme vous le montrez dans les vidéos (méthode continentale), le 1er rang se fait donc sur l'envers et A1 aussi. Il manque 1 rang dans les explications, non ? Merci.

27.10.2017 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, quelle que soit la méthode de montage, vous tricotez 2 côtes mousse = 4 rangs endroit en commençant par 1 rang sur l'endroit, à la fin des 4 rangs, votre ouvrage est sur l'endroit et vous pouvez tricoter le 1er rang de A.1 sur l'endroit (et tous les rangs pairs sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

27.10.2017 - 14:16

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonjour, pour les manches, je monte 86 mailles, je fais 2 côtes mousse puis je continue avec A1. Mais du coup, A1 se fait sur l'envers si je monte les mailles avec la méthode continentale. Le 1er rang des côtes mousse est-il à l'endroit ou à l'envers sur l'endroit du travail ? Merci.

23.10.2017 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, après avoir monté les mailles, le 1er rang se fait sur l'endroit, vous tricotez 2 côtes mousse, soit 4 rangs et au rang suivant, vous êtes à nouveau sur l'endroit et tricotez ainsi le 1er rang de A.1 sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

26.10.2017 - 10:16

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonjour. Vous donnez 32 rangs pour 10 cm de jersey comme échantillon. Cela doit-il être valable pour 10 cm de A1 ? Est-il possible de tricoter les manches en rond ? Merci.

05.08.2017 - 08:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, si votre tension en jersey est correcte, elle le sera également pour le point ajouré. Les manches se tricotent ici en allers et retours en raison du nombre de mailles à placer ensuite sur l'aiguille circulaire pour l'empiècement. Vous pouvez probablement les tricoter en rond. Bon tricot!

07.08.2017 - 11:42