DROPS 152-14
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-062
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
350-400-550 g color no 2110, wheat

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
Diagram A.6 + A.7 (= 31 sts) measures 11 cm / 4½'' in width without pulling the piece.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm / US 1.5 – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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BOLERO:
Worked in 2 parts from edge of sleeve to mid back. Then the 2 parts are sewn tog mid back Pick up an edge in rib around the opening of bolero.

RIGHT SIDE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from bottom of sleeve.
Cast on 98-115-132 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * K 2, P 2, K 3, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 5-6-7 times in total, then * K 2, P 2, K 3, P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 time in total and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * A.1 (= 11 sts), A.2 (= 6 sts) *, repeat from *-* 5-6-7 times in total, then A.1 (= 11 sts) 1 time in total, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this until A.1 has been worked for 5 cm / 2'' (piece measures approx. 15 cm / 6''). Now work A.3 instead of A.1 (continue A.2 as before). When piece measures 50 cm / 19 3/4'', insert 1 marker in piece. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * A.4 (= 11 sts), A.8 (= 6 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2-3-3 times in total, ** A.4 (= 11 sts), A.5 (= 6 sts) **, repeat from **-** 3-3-4 times in total and finish with A.4 1 time and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When A.4/ A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 196-237-268 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' from marker. Then work A.6 instead of A.4 and A.7 instead of A.5 (continue diagram A.8 as follows: Work A.8b 1 time and continue with A.8c). When A.8b has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 204-249-280 sts on needle.

When piece measures 17-19-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4" from marker, slip the first 110-136-155 sts on needle from RS on 1 stitch holder (work sts before slipping them on holder) = right front piece. There are now 94-113-125 sts on needle for back. Insert another marker (side seam is seamed up to this marker) and continue pattern back and forth over back sts. When piece measures 2-2-3 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8" from marker, slip 10 sts on 1 stitch holder 5 times in total from bottom of back and up towards neck every other row (i.e. at beg of every row from WS - work sts before slipping them on holder to avoid cutting the yarn) = 44-63-75 sts remain on needle.

Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and slip all sts from stitch holder back on needle AT THE SAME TIME work the rest of row from RS = 94-113-125 sts. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 104-123-135 sts. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. Slip the first 48-59-63 sts at the top of neck on 1 stitch holder (work sts before slipping them on holder).
Then continue in garter st back and forth over the 56-64-72 sts AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 56-64-72 (from middle of back to bottom edge), turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): K from bottom edge until 2 sts remain on needle (i.e. towards middle of back), turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 54-62-70 sts, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= WS): K from bottom edge until 4 sts remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 5 (= RS): K 52-60-68 sts, turn piece.
ROW 6 (= WS): K from bottom edge until 6 sts remain on needle, turn piece.
Continue like this until 1 ridge has been worked only over the outermost 2 sts at the bottom of back piece = 28-32-36 ridges.
Then work 1 ridge over all 104-123-135 sts (also sts on stitch holder), loosely bind off.
Bolero has now been worked until mid of back, i.e. half way.

LEFT SIDE:
Cast on and work as right side but reversed. I.e. when sts on front piece are slipped on a stitch holder, this is done from WS (not RS) and when sts from back are slipped on stitch holder, this is done at beg of every row from RS (not WS).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts up to marker at 50 cm / 19 3/4", then sew side seams, i.e. continue sleeve seam so that the side on front piece is sewn towards the side on back piece up to marker. Sew back seam.

RIB:
Pick up sts along the opening of bolero - i.e. up along right front piece, back of neck, down along left front piece and then along back piece as follows: Pick up from RS approx. 340 to 380 sts (includes sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work in the round on needle as follows: P 1 round, then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 390-416-468 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: * Work A.3 (= 11 sts), P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. When rib measures 3 cm / 1'', inc every 3rd P-section to 3 P sts = 420-448-504 sts. Repeat inc when edge measures 7 cm / 2¾'', but displace inc so that there now are 2 sections with 3 P sts between every section with 2 P = 450-480-540 sts. When edge measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', loosely bind off with K over K and P over P - NOTE: To avoid a tight bind-off edge, 1 YO after approx. every 6th or 12th st can be made and bind off as a regular st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = work 2 sts in same st
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to
K, K 1, psso.
symbols = slip 1 st as if to
K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Terttu Matilainen wrote:

Kun erotetaan selkäkappaleen silmukat ja niillä jatketaan, niin etupuolelle muodostuu "porras". Miten tämä kohta pitää neuloa?

22.02.2023 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, silmukat neulotaan ennen kuin ne siirretään apulangalle. Eli reunasta tulee tasainen.

22.02.2023 - 16:23

country flag Terttu Matilainen wrote:

DROPS 152-14 malli 062 neulomatta Miten pitsineuleohjeissa A1 ja A3 silmukkamäärän pitäisi pysyä samana vaikka keskellä on kaksi langan kiertoa ja vain 1 silmukka vähenee kolmesta = kun nosta 1 oikein neulomatta, neulotaan kaksi yhteen ja vedetään nostettu kavennuksen yli

29.12.2022 - 20:52

DROPS Design answered:

Silmukkaluku pysyy samana, koska työstä kavennetaan 2 silmukkaa: Nosta 1 silmukka oikein neulomatta, neulo 2 silmukkaa yhteen (työstä kapenee yksi silmukka) ja vedä nostettu silmukka kavennuksen yli (nyt työstä kapenee toinen silmukka).

02.01.2023 - 17:59

country flag Anniina wrote:

Hi, I don't think I am getting this right. When I measure my wrist, the correct number of loops should be closer to 40 than to 100. If I follow the instructions, there is no way my sleeve is going be correct size. Am I misunderstanding something? Thank you! PS. Apparently comments in Finnish don't go through, please check why.

08.08.2021 - 08:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anniina, please take it into consideration, that you are using a relatively thin yarn with small needles AND a kind of ribbing that pulls in the knitted fabric. However, you should always make a gauge swatch, if in doubt, knit a swatch with the pattern too, wash it, and recalculate the stitch number of necessary. Happy Stitching!

08.08.2021 - 23:11

country flag Karine Grenet wrote:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée au moment ou je dois continuer avec l\\\'aiguille circulaire 2.5 et je suis un peu perdue car j\\\'ai toujours en attente les 110 mailles qui correspondent au devant droit. A quel moment je dois les reprendre?

05.09.2018 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grenet, les 110 mailles en attente pour le haut du dos seront ensuite assemblées aux 110 m en attente de l'autre partie, vous ne tricotez plus ces mailles, vous continuez simplement sur les 94 m du bas de l'ouvrage que vous augmentez à 104 m et tricotez ensuite des rangs raccourcis (pour créer le petit gousset que l'on voit sur la 2ème photo). Bon tricot!

06.09.2018 - 08:23

country flag Claire Daoust wrote:

Si je ne désire pas faire la partie en rangs raccourcis, où dois-je arrêter ? Quels sont les modifications que je dois y apporter. Merci beaucoup

28.07.2017 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Daoust, les rangs raccourcis font partie intégrante du modèle et permettent de donner la forme souhaitée au dos, si vous ne les faites pas, vous aurez un résultat complètement différent. Bon tricot!

31.07.2017 - 09:19

country flag Claire Daoust wrote:

Le module A.7 ne devrait-il pas avoir le même nombre de lignes que A.6. Sinon, j'ai besoin d'explications.

25.07.2017 - 23:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Daoust, ces 2 diagrammes ne se répètent pas sur le même nombre de rangs, mais quand A.7 est terminé, reprenez au 1er rang et continuez A.6 comme avant. Bon tricot!

26.07.2017 - 09:01

country flag Marion Walter wrote:

Hallo, werden die 5 x 10 stillgelegten Maschen auf der entgegengesetzten Seite gestrickt? Sprich die Seite entgegengesetzt der 136 stillgelegten Maschen?

28.03.2017 - 11:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Walter, nach 19 cm sind die 136 M (= re. Vorderteil) nicht mehr gestrickt, sonder stillgelegt. Dann werden die verkürzten Reihen am Anfang jeder Rück-R gestrickt, dann alle Maschen für den Rücken gestrickt und noch verkürzte Reihen mit kleineren Nadeln gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.03.2017 - 11:45

country flag Rita Pedersen wrote:

Hejsa.. jeg har fundet fejlen... og det var en fejl 40... ups

25.01.2017 - 17:44

country flag Rita Pedersen wrote:

Hovsa.. jeg laver str S

23.01.2017 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rita. Godt at du er kommet videre. God fornöjelse.

26.01.2017 - 11:51

country flag Rita Pedersen wrote:

Jeg har strikket de første 50 cm og kan simpelthen ikke få næste række til at passe med både mønster og masker.. hvad gør jeg forkert? jeg strikker A4 og A8 2 gange og A4 og A5 2,5 gang så har jeg ikke flere masker altså første række af diagram...

23.01.2017 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rita. Hvilken str laver du? Saa kan jeg kigge lidt hurtigere med :) Tak

23.01.2017 - 14:05