DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Sheer Bliss

Knitted DROPS jacket with blackberry pattern and shawl collar in ”Vienna” OR "Melody. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 150-41
DROPS design: Pattern no o-317
Yarn group D
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
350-350-400 g colour no 43, light brown

Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
250-250-300g colour no 15, beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 12 mm - or size needed to get 9 sts x 9 rows in blackberry pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
BLACKBERRY PATTERN:
See diagram A.1, diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS. 1 repetition = 4 sts.

GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

SHORT ROWS (applies to band):
To avoid the ridges contracting mid front work short rows over band as follows:
* Beg mid front, work 19 sts in garter st, turn piece, tighten yarn and work 19 sts in garter st.* Then work back and forth over all sts as before. Repeat from *-* approx. every 10th row until cast off on shoulder.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 50-58-66 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 12 mm with Vienna or Melody. Work BLACKBERRY PATTERN – see explanation above, with 1 edge st in each side in GARTER ST - see explanation above. (1st row = WS.) REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 42-44-46 cm, cast on 24-24-24 new sts in each side for sleeves (i.e. cast on at the end of the next 2 rows) = 98-106-114 sts. Continue with blackberry pattern over all sts and 1 edge st in garter st in each side at the edge of sleeve. When piece measures 70-74-78 cm, loosely cast off the middle 14 sts for neck = 42-46-50 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue blackberry pattern with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Cast off with K from RS when piece measures approx. 72-76-80 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 36-40-44 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 19 band sts in garter st towards mid front) on circular needle size 12 mm with Vienna or Melody. Work blackberry pattern with 19 band sts in garter st towards mid front and 1 edge st in garter st in the side (1st row = WS) – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 7 cm, beg to work SHORT ROWS over band - see explanation above. When piece measures 42-44-46 cm, cast on 24-24-24 new sts at the end of next row from WS for sleeve = 60-64-68 sts. Continue to work 1 st in garter st on the outer edge of sleeve, blackberry pattern over 40-44-48 sts and 19 sts in garter st towards mid front. When piece measures approx. 72-76-80 cm (adjust after 1 row from WS), cast off the first 42-46-50 sts with K from RS. K the remaining 18 band sts and then slip them on 1 stitch holder for collar.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left but reversed, i.e. when casting on new sts for sleeve this is done at the end of row from RS and when piece measures approx. 72-76-80 cm (adjust after 1 row from WS) work next row as follows from RS: Work 18 sts in garter st and then slip them on 1 stitch holder for collar, cast off the remaining 42-46-50 sts with K from RS, cut the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder/overarm seams tog edge to edge.
Sew side and underarm seams in one inside 1 edge st.

COLLAR:
Slip the 18 sts from stitch holder on left band on circular needle size 12 mm. Then work as follows, beg mid front:
* Work 1 ridge in garter st back and forth over all sts, work 1 ridge in garter st back and forth over the outermost 12 sts towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 9-10 cm (measured at the shortest), loosely cast off. Work the same way on right band but K 1 row from WS over all sts before repeating from *-*. Sew collar tog mid back and sew collar to neckline at the back of neck edge to edge.

Diagram

symbols = From WS: P 3, pass first st
worked over the 2 others, then
the second over the last st = 1 st
remains.
symbols = From WS: = Work 3 sts in 1 st as follows: K 1, P
1, K 1.
symbols = From RS: P all sts.
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Santos wrote:

Hola, he terminado la chaqueta, pero el cuello cuando se unen por detrás la costura de la solapa se ve al doblar el cuello, es así o yo me equivoqué, gracias

19.11.2021 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Santos, hay que coser el cuello para que la costura quede por el lado revés al doblar. Por lo tanto, una parte se cose por un lado y la otra por el otro.

21.11.2021 - 19:38

country flag Jolanda wrote:

Buongiorno, non riesco a capire il grafico del punto traforato perché è sfalsato. La prima maglia come va lavorata?

23.08.2021 - 10:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Jolanda, il diagramma è sfalsato perchè ci sono degli aumenti. Nella 1° maglia del 1° ferro si lavorano 3 maglie in 1 maglia. Buon lavoro!

23.08.2021 - 11:50

country flag Irena Musielska wrote:

Jak moge i gdzie zamowic gazete drops num150 /41

26.12.2019 - 00:07

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ireno! Sądzę, że katalog 150 w formie papierowej już nie jest nigdzie dostępny. Wzór 150-41 możesz wydrukować bezpośrednio z naszej strony, jest dostępny za darmo, w języku polskim, nie musisz się nawet logować czy rejestrować. Miłej pracy!

30.12.2019 - 00:31

country flag Carina wrote:

Hej det här ser ut att vara en kofta i mitt slag men jag är varm av mig. Kan garnet bytas ut mot exempelvis ett bomullsgarn? och i så fall, har du något exempel?

10.08.2019 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carina, den här koftan är lätt och luftig, väljer du bomull vill den bli tyngre... Gör ett stickprov i DROPS Paris och se om du tycker om det. Se till at hålla stickfastheten som står i mönstret. Lycka till :)

06.09.2019 - 11:02

country flag Francesca wrote:

Non riesco a capire come si fa il punto costa a legaccio, nn è spiegato bene. Grazie

19.04.2019 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Francesca. Lavorare una costa a legaccio vuol dire lavorare 2 ferri a diritto. Buon lavoro!

19.04.2019 - 16:14

country flag Isabelle wrote:

I am making this with melody. A very lovely yarn! But incredibly hard to knit with especially when using the 12 mm needles! Since the yarn is too thin (while super fluffy) for these thick needles. Stitches keep slipping and knitting is super slow. Result is beautiful though.

22.11.2015 - 16:51

country flag Karined wrote:

Bonjour ce modèle me plait ! je souhaite la faire en mélody Es ce qu'il faut tricoter à deux fils ? ou seulement un fil ? Merci d'avance et merci pour vos modèles toujours aussi beau et gratuit

11.10.2015 - 13:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Karined et merci. Ce modèle se tricote avec 1 seul fil Vienna ou 1 seul fil Melody, sur la base d'un échantillon de 9 m x 9 rangs au point d'astrakan = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

12.10.2015 - 09:52

country flag Francesca wrote:

Potreste spiegarmi come faccio ad avviare su entrambi i lati le maglie per le maniche? Ho visto il video e mostra soltanto come farlo per un lato, alla fine del ferro. Come si fa all'inizio del ferro?

25.01.2014 - 00:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Francesca, le istruzioni dicono "Quando il lavoro misura 42-44-46 cm, avviare 24-24-24 m da ciascun lato per le maniche (avviare quindi le m alla fine dei 2 ferri successivi)", per cui può seguire il video e avviare le m alla fine dei 2 f successivi. Ci riscriva se ha altri dubbi. Buon lavoro!!!

25.01.2014 - 17:16

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno, cosa intende per ferri accorciati - non riesco a capire la spiegazioni relativa alle 19 m del davanti puo' essere più chiara? grazie

30.12.2013 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia, i ferri accorciati sono ferri in cui non si lavora su tutti i punti, ma solo su una parte, in questo caso 19 m, poi si gira il lavoro e si torna indietro. Provi a vedere se questo video può esserle d'aiuto: Ci riscriva se ha ancora dubbi. Buon lavoro!!

30.12.2013 - 12:24

country flag Beatrice Schmelzer wrote:

Traumhaft, so müssen jacken aussehen.

27.12.2013 - 00:04