DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Gladiola

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 150-10
DROPS design: Pattern no li-046
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
750-850-950-1000-1100-1200 g colour no 3609, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 16 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - for rib.

DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 535: 3 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

SHORT ROWS IN BAND:
Work short rows over sts in band to avoid it contracting vertically. Work like this every 10th row – from RS: Work 18 sts (= right band), turn and work back. Work 1 row over all sts as before. Turn and work 18 sts (= left band), turn and work back. Turn and work 1 row over all sts as before.

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 26, 34 and 42 cm
SIZE M: 27, 35 and 43 cm
SIZE L: 28, 36 and 44 cm
SIZE XL: 29, 37 and 45 cm
SIZE XXL: 30, 38 and 46 cm
SIZE XXXL: 31, 39 and 47 cm
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 278-294-314-334-362-382 sts (incl 18 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 6 mm with Lima. P 1 row from WS, then continue as follows: 18 sts in garter st (= band), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 18 sts in garter st (= band). Work rib for 8 cm. K 1 row from WS while dec 48-48-52-56-60-64 sts evenly (do not dec over the first and last 24 sts, continue these in garter st and rib as before) = 230-246-262-278-302-318 sts. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 18 sts in garter st, K 2, P 2, K 2, work MOSS ST - see explanation above – until 24 sts remain, K 2, P 2, K 2, 18 sts in garter st. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 67-71-75-79-85-89 sts in from each side (back piece = 96-104-112-120-132-140 sts). Continue this pattern AT THE SAME TIME work short rows over sts in band – see explanation above. When piece measures 9 cm, dec 1 st on each side of markers, repeat dec every 4-4-4½-4½-3½-4 cm 7 more times (= 8 dec in total ) = 198-214-230-246-270-286 sts. Remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. When piece measures 38-40-42-44-37-39 cm, work 1 row from WS while inc evenly as follows: Inc 2-2-2-2-3-3 sts on each front piece and 8-8-8-8-10-10 sts on back piece = 210-226-242-258-286-302 sts. Then work as follows from RS: 18 sts in garter st (= band), K 2, P 2 , K 2, A.1 (= 17 sts), * K 2, P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10-18-26-2-10 sts (in size S and XXL work only K 2) *, P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2, K 2 * repeat from *-* 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total, A.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 14 sts, A.1, * K 2, P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10-18-26-2-10 sts (in size S and XXL work only K 2), * P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total, A.1, K 2, P 2, K 2, 18 sts in garter st (= band).

When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from RS:

SIZE S-M-L-XL: 18 sts in garter st (= band), K 2, P 2, K 2, A.1 (= 17 sts), K 2, A.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10-18-26 sts (in size S work only K 2), A.1, K 2, A.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 14 sts, A.1, K 2, A.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10-18-26 sts (in size S work only K 2), A.1, K 2, A.1, K 2, P 2, K 2, 18 sts in garter st (= band). Continue pattern like this.

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
18 sts in garter st (= band), K 2, P 2 , K 2, A.1 (= 17 sts), K 2, A.1, K 2, P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10 sts (in size XXL work only K 2), P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2, K 2, A.1, K 2. A.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 14 sts, A.1, K 2, A.1, K 2, P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10 sts (in size XXL work only K 2), P 2, moss st over the next 13 sts, P 2, K 2, A.1, K 2, A.1, K 2, P 2, K 2, 18 sts in garter st (= band).
When A.1 has been worked 2 times vertically mid front and mid back, continue as follows:
18 sts in garter st (= band), K 2, P 2, K 2, A.1 (= 17 sts), K 2, A.1, K 2, A.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10 sts (in size XXL work only K 2), A.1, K 2, A.1, K 2, A.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 14 sts, A.1, K 2, A.1, K 2, A.1, *K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 2-10 sts (in size XXL work only K 2), A.1, K 2, A.1, K 2, A.1, K 2, P 2, K 2, 18 sts in garter st (= band). Continue pattern like this.

ALL SIZES: When piece measures 56-57-58-59-60-61 cm, slip the first and last 61-65-69-73-80-84 sts on a stitch holder, work only over the middle 88-96-104-112-126-134 sts = back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Continue with pattern A.1 and rib until 4 rows remain before A.1 has been worked 4-4-4-4-5-5 times vertically mid back (piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm). Now cast off the middle 18 sts for neck = 35-39-43-47-54-58 sts remaining on each shoulder. Finish each part separately. Cast off when A.1 has been worked 4-4-4-4-5-5 times vertically (piece measures approx. 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the first 61-65-69-73-80-84 sts back on needle. Continue pattern as before. When piece measures approx. 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm vertically (adjust according to back piece), cast off the first 35-39-43-47-54-58 sts from WS for shoulder = 26 sts remain on needle. Work the rest of row. Then work short rows over the 26 sts as follows - from RS: * Work 2 rows over the first 13 sts, work 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until neck edge measures 8 cm at the shortest. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 44-48-48-52-52-56 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm with Lima. Work rib K 2/P 2. When piece measures 8 cm, P 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-9-7-9-9-11 sts evenly = 37-39-41-43-43-45 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Then work as follows: 16-18-20-22-22-24 sts moss st, K 2, A.1 (= 17 sts), K 2. Continue this pattern AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9 cm, inc 1 st in each side of section in moss st, work inc sts in moss st. Repeat inc every 4-3½-3-3-2-2 cm 9-10-11-11-13-13 more times (= 10-11-12-12-14-14 inc total) = 57-61-65-67-71-73 sts. When piece measures 49-48-46-45-42-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off all sts. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in 1 st (by working alternately 1 st and YO) P back over these 5 sts, on next row work sts tog into 1 st (by passing the four last sts over first st)
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Anne-Marie wrote:

Est-ce que la laine Lima a changé de grosseur à travers les années? Le patron demande des broches 7 mm. La laine me semble petite.

11.08.2022 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anne-Marie, DROPS Lima est toujours la même mais se tricote ici avec une tension de 16 mailles x 22 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm, utilisez des aiguilles 7 ou celles qu'il vous faudra pour avoir cet échantillon. Si vous souhaitez une tension plus ferme, vous pouvez essayer d'associer une autre laine du groupe A comme Kid-Silk par ex. Tricotez bien votre échantillon au préalable pour vérifier la hauteur et la largeur mais aussi si la texture vous convient. Bon tricot!

11.08.2022 - 14:03

country flag Rodier Rolande wrote:

Pourrais ja faire ce modèles aux aiguilles droites merci

08.11.2020 - 17:38

country flag Rodier wrote:

Je n aime pas tricoter avec des aiguilles circulaires pourrai je faire ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites merci

08.11.2020 - 17:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rodier, vous trouverez ici comment adapter nos modèles sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

09.11.2020 - 11:13

country flag Sareith Sakhon wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre précédente réponse sur le raccourci. J'aurais une autre question sur les diminuations : "À 9 cm de hauteur totale, diminuer 1 m de chaque côté des marqueurs, répéter ces diminutions encore 7 fois " pouvez vous me dire si les diminutions se font avant ou après les marqueurs. Soit dans le dos ou à l'intérieur du devant gauche ou droite ? Merci d'avance

25.11.2019 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sakhon, vous diminuez 1 m de chaque côté de chacun des deux marqueurs sur les côtés de la veste, soit 2 mailles à chaque marqueur et 4 m au total: 1 m pour chaque devant et 2 m pour le dos. Vous diminuerez ainsi 4 m x 8 fois au total = 32 m au total. Bon tricot!

26.11.2019 - 09:26

country flag Sareith Sakhon wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis au début du modèle et j'aurais une question sur les raccourcis de bordure devant. Pourriez vous m'en dire plus sur les explications ? Dois je tricoter 18m puis tourner le modèle et retricoter les 18 m de nouveau puis tricoter le rang normal? Est ce correcte ?

20.11.2019 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sakhon, tout à fait c'est exact, quand vous tricotez le bas (= dos & devants), vous tricotez d'abord 2 rangs sur les 18 m de la bordure devant droit, 1 rang comme avant sur toutes les mailles, 2 rangs sur les 18 m de la bordure devant gauche, 1 rang comme avant sur toutes les mailles = vous avez 2 rangs raccourcis sur chacune des bordures des devants. Bon tricot!

21.11.2019 - 08:57

Angélica Chimal wrote:

Me gusto mucho

06.06.2016 - 04:58

Linda Hopkins wrote:

In February 2014 a comment was made about the use of the word repeat when the stitches should only be knitted once when setting the the first row of the cable pattern. There is no error reported in the pattern over a year on and it is most confusing. It was only once I had read the comments that I realised what I was doing wrong. Why was the English/American translation not amended, I wasted a lot of time trying to work out the pattern correctly.

07.11.2015 - 01:21

country flag Lonny Vendelbo wrote:

Jeg vil rigtig gerne strikke denne model, men kan ikke forstå pind 7mm når i anbefaler 4mm i omtalen af garnet. Den må da blive meget løs?

15.05.2014 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lonny. Ja, det er korrekt. Strikkefastheden er lösere til denne model: 16 m x 22 p = 10 x 10 cm. Saa strik först en pröve og tjek at din strikkefasthed er korrekt.

15.05.2014 - 16:34

country flag Margareta wrote:

Hello, I am having great difficulties with this pattern.Is by A1 only the right side shown?So the actual finished pattern is 17 st by 40 rows? Please help. Thanks

28.02.2014 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Margareta, all rows are shown in diagram, the RS and WS rows. Sts are shown as they appear from RS. Start to read diagram from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left (1st row = RS), WS rows are worked from left towards right. A.1 is worked over 17 sts and 20 rows. Happy knitting!

28.02.2014 - 13:35

country flag Margareta wrote:

Hi, I am at the 40cm high,and starting to work the first row after 1 revers row where I did my increasing.Have such hard time to understand why is in the pattern calls for repeat 1 time, when it should be knit once(without repeat). This part of the pattern is very confusing.

26.02.2014 - 14:14