DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Valkyrie

Knitted DROPS bolero with cables and lace pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 149-12
DROPS design: Pattern no me-062
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-750 g colour no 28, north sea

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A, B, C, D, E and F. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP 1:
Inc on last row (= WS) in every repetition (A.2), and inc as follows in every P-section (from WS): * K 2, 1 YO, P 2, 1 YO, K 2 *. On next row (i.e. 1st row = RS in F.1) K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2:
Inc 1 st by making a YO before first P st in every section with P sts in rib. P this twisted on next round.

INCREASE TIP 3:
Inc 1 st by making a YO before first K st in every section with K sts in rib. K this twisted on next round.
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BOLERO:
Piece is worked in 2 parts from sleeve and over shoulder and sewn tog mid back.
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 55-55-55-55-70-70 sts (incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work RIB as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 50-50-50-50-65-65 sts, P 3, 1 edge st in garter st. Work rib back the same way (= WS).
On next row from RS work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2 tog, P 1, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with P 2 tog, P 1, 1 edge st in garter st = 44-44-44-44-56-56 sts on row. Work 1 row rib back the same way. Then work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2, K 2, P 2, PATTERN according to diagram A.1 (= 6 sts)*, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total), P 2, K 2, P 2, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue back and forth the same way with 1 edge st in garter st, rib and A.1 until A.1 has been worked 3-3-2-2-2-2 times vertically.
Then work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2, K 2, P 2, PATTERN according to diagram A.2 (= 6 sts)*, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total), P 2, K 2, P 2, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue back and forth the same way with 1 edge st in garter st, rib and A.2 until A.2 has been worked 1-1-1-1-1-1 time vertically, AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 sts in every rib section – see INCREASE TIP 1! There are now 58-58-58-58-74-74 sts on row and piece measures approx. 7-7-6-6-6-6 cm.
Then work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * F.1 (= 8 sts), B.1 (= 8 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total), F.1, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the same way until B.1 has been worked 8-8-9-8-8-8 times vertically. Then work the same way but with B.2 instead of B.1.
Work B.2 a total of 1-1-1-1-1-1 times vertically. Piece now measures approx. 30-30-31-29-29-29 cm and there are 64-64-64-64-82-82 sts on needle.
Then work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * F.1 (= 8 sts), C.1 (= 10 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total), F.1, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the same way until C.1 has been worked 2-2-2-2-1-1 times vertically. Then work the same way but with C.2 instead of C.1. Work C.2 1-1-1-1-1-1 time vertically, AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 0-0-1-1-0-0 P sts on each side of every repetition of F.1 by picking up a st from row below = 70-70-78-78-90-90 sts on needle. NOTE! These new sts on each side of F.1 are worked P until cast-off. Piece now measures 42-42-43-41-38-38 cm.
Then work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 0-0-1-1-0-0, F.1 (= 8 sts), P 0-0-1-1-0-0, D.1 (= 12 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total), P 0-0-1-1-0-0, F.1, P 0-0-1-1-0-0, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the same way until D.1 has been worked 3-3-3-3-4-4 times vertically. Then work the same way but with D.2 instead of D.1. Work D.2 1-1-1-1-1-1 time vertically = 76-76-84-84-98-98 sts on needle. Piece now measures 57-57-58-56-57-57 cm.
Then work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 0-0-1-1-0-0, F.1 (= 8 sts), P 0-0-1-1-0-0, E.1 (= 14 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total), P 0-0-1-1-0-0, F.1, P 0-0-1-1-0-0, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the same way until E.1 has been worked 3-3-3-4-4-4 times vertically. Work 2-4-4-2-2-4 ridges in garter st. Loosely cast off. Piece now measures 72-73-74-75-76-77 cm.
Knit another part.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 2 parts tog mid back. Sew sleeve seam in the outermost edge st as follows: Sew edge X and X tog, sew edge Y and Y tog – see diagram.

EDGE:
Pick up 280-288-312-336-360-368 sts evenly from RS along the opening on bolero - i.e. up along right front piece, back of neck, down along left front piece and then along back piece on circular needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round on circular needle as follows: K 2/P 2. When edge measures 5-5-5-5-5-5 cm, inc 1 st in every P section = K 2/P 3 - Read INCREASE TIP 2. When edge measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm, inc 1 st in every K section = K 3/P 3 - Read INCREASE TIP 3. Continue with K 3/P 3 until edge measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm. Loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P. NOTE: To avoid a tight cast-off edge make 1 YO before every P section. Cast off YO as st.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.11.2016
BOLERO: ...On next row from RS work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2 tog, P 1, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with P 2 tog, P 1, 1 edge st in garter st = 44-44-44-44-56-56 sts on row....

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts. Make YO from WS, and K twisted on next row to avoid holes.
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (65)

country flag JESSICA J MONTGOMERY wrote:

What exactly does it mean: Work rib back the same way"? To purl the knit stitches, knit the purl?

03.12.2021 - 07:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jessica, Yes, to continue the rib when working back and forth you purl the knitted stitches and knit the purled stitches, although from the wrong side it looks like you are purling purled stitches and knitting knitted stitches. Happy crafting!

03.12.2021 - 08:04

country flag Cheryl Clark wrote:

I am a bit confused. The pattern is knit sleeve to sleeve and yet diagram shoepws top to bottom. And no section f. So am I knitting then abcedef? Also would you be able to start the sleeves in the round then knit flat for back? I bought the yarn from you, and it is still sitting because the pattern doesn’t make sense and I have been knitting for close to 20 years.

15.11.2021 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Clark, pattern is worked in 2 pieces from sleeve edge towards mid back with a seam on mid back. Work the different sections as explained, all diagrams (including F.1) is mentionned in the written pattern. You have to read the written pattern and work the diagrams when explained. (F.1 will be worked after piece measures 7or 6 cm depending on the size). Maybe tell your size if you need more help or simply contact your DROPS store, it might be easier for them to assist you, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

15.11.2021 - 12:56

country flag Nathalie Acquenin wrote:

Bonjour j aimerais avoir de l aide car je voudrais faire ce modèle qui me plaît beaucoup mais je ne comprends pas les explications c est la première fois que je réalise un modèle de drops merci

01.02.2021 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Acquenin, vous pouvez volontiers poser votre question dans cette rubrique, en expliquant bien ce que vous ne comprenez pas. Juste après les explications, vous pourrez trouver une liste de ressources qui pourront vous être utiles: vidéos, leçons sur les techniques utilisées. Et bien sûr, cette rubrique pour toute question et votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance personnalisée. Bon tricot!

01.02.2021 - 14:50

country flag Nicole wrote:

Mit welcher Technik würdet ihr empfehlen die Rückennaht zu schließen? Gibt es dazu ein Video? Ich habe kein entsprechendes gefunden.

05.01.2021 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, dieses Video zeigt, wie man die abgekettenen Maschen von beiden Teilen zusammennäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.01.2021 - 07:26

country flag Terhi wrote:

Olen tehnyt a ja b osan, miksi työni on vain 18 cm, vaikka pitäisi olla 29 cm?!? Kuvioita on oikea määrä.

08.10.2020 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Oletko tarkistanut, että neuletiheytesi täsmää? Sen tulee olla 20 s x 26 krs sileää neuletta per 10 x 10 cm.

19.11.2020 - 17:19

country flag Milhem Lola wrote:

Bonjour, j'en suis à l'assemblage et jusque là tout va bien. Les côtés X et Y font-ils toute la longueur du biais des manches, ou bien s'arrêtent-ils après les diagrammes C2 ? Autre formulation, dois-je fermer les manches jusqu'à la partie droite du dos ? Je n'ai jamais tricoté de boléro et suis un peu perdue Merci d'avance

24.09.2020 - 11:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Milhem, vous faites la couture en commençant au bord de la manche et en remontant tout le long des côtés jusqu'aux diagrammes C/D= côtés X d'un côté /Y de l'autre- ajustez la longueur de la couture si besoin en essayant le boléro avant de relever les mailles de la bordure. Bon tricot!

24.09.2020 - 14:26

country flag Barbara wrote:

Na opzetten moet je de boordsteek breien. De naald terug staat als brei de boordsteek terug op dezelfde manier. Betekent dat dan dat waar recht staat, je terug averecht moet breien en waar averecht staat, je recht moet breien? Ik hoor t graag

14.04.2020 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Barbara,

Ja dat klopt, dus zoals je gewend bent een boordsteek te breien. Waar je recht breit op de goede kant brei je averecht op de verkeerde kant en vice verca.

16.04.2020 - 12:34

country flag Alicia wrote:

Buenas tardes. ¿Hay algún video para ver cómo se hace la lazada en la hilera revés? En este patrón deben hacerse en los diagramas A2,B 2 , C2 y D2. Mi pregunta se debe a que en esa lazada me queda un agujero un poco más grande que los otros. Muchas gracias . Saludos.

07.02.2020 - 00:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alicia. Todos los vídeos relacionados con el patrón puedes encontrarlos bajo los diagramas. Las lazadas por el lado derecho y por el lado revés se trabajan de la misma manera. Es posible que algunos puntos trabajados retorcidos queden más abiertos que otros. Puedes probar a sustituir las lazadas por levantar la hebra entre los puntos. En este caso el tejido quedaría más cerrado.

01.03.2020 - 00:02

country flag Maria Hedlund wrote:

Hej! Går det att sticka denna i räta maskor ist för mönstret som är på armar och rygg? Att man stickar samma antal maskor men ist för mönster stickar man bara slätstickning? (förutom på den breda resår kanten som går runt tröjan) Tack för svar! Mvh/Maria

22.09.2019 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, ja det bör gå bra, men flätorna behöver fler maskor, så måttet blir kanske lite större i enbart slätstickning... Lycka till :)

25.09.2019 - 08:15

country flag Bianca wrote:

Ein sehr schöner Bolero - ich habe ihn als Jäckchen für´s Dirndl gestrickt - sieht super aus und ist ganz leicht nachzustricken!

27.09.2018 - 15:33