DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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September Jacket

Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and Nordic pattern in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 150-14
DROPS design: Pattern no li-027
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-112-124-134 cm / 33”-36¼”-39½”-44”-48¾”-52¾”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color no 9015, gray
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 0100, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 5820, ruby red
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color no 4088, heather

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - for rib.

DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS NO 534: 8 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to round yoke):
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 289 sts), minus bands (e.g. 12 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec to be done (e.g. 27) = 10.2. I.e. in this example work approx. every 9th and 10th st tog (and do not dec over band sts).

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by picking up a st from previous row/round, K this st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47 and 54 cm /
2”, 4¾”, 7½”, 10¼”, 13”, 15¾”, 18½” and 21¼”.
SIZE M: 5, 13, 20, 28, 35, 42, 49 and 56 cm /
2”, 5 1/8”, 8”, 11”, 13¾”, 16½”, 19¼” och 22’’.
SIZE L: 5, 13, 20, 28, 35, 43, 50 and 58 cm /
2”, 5 1/8”, 8”, 11”, 13¾”, 17”, 19¾” and 22¾”.
SIZE XL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 and 60 cm /
2”, 5 1/8”, 8 ¼”, 11 3/8”, 14½”, 17 ¾”, 21” and 23 5/8”.
SIZE XXL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 and 62 cm /
2”, 5 1/8”, 8 ¼”, 11 3/8”, 14½”, 17 ¾”, 21” and 24 3/8”.
SIZE XXXL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 46, 55 and 64 cm /
2”, 5 1/8”, 8 ¼”, 11 3/8”, 14½”, 18”, 21 5/8” and 25¼”.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 226-242-262-294-322-350 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with gray.
P 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.
Continue like this until rib measures 4 cm / 1½’’ – adjust so that next row is worked from WS.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 45-49-51-59-63-67 sts evenly (dec by P 2 tog and do not dec over bands) = 181-193-211-235-259-283 sts.
Insert 2 markers in the piece; 48-51-56-62-68-74 sts in from each side (= 85-91-99-111-123-135 sts between markers on back piece).
Work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 7 sts remain on row, work 1st st in A.1 (so that pattern is the same in each side towards mid front) and finish with 6 band sts in garter st.
Continue the pattern like this. R
EMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8’’, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts dec - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern in gray when dec).
Repeat dec when piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4’’ = 173-185-203-227-251-275 sts. When piece measures 22 cm / 8¾”, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern in gray when inc).
Repeat inc every 3-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm / 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1¼”-1¼”-1½”, 3-4-4-4-4-4 more times (= 4-5-5-5-5-5 inc in total) = 189-205-223-247-271-295 sts.
When piece approx. 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼’’-14½’’-15’’-14 1/4’’-15¾’’-16 1/8’’ – make sure that next row is a row from RS with dots, bind off the middle 12 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 6 sts on each side of both markers) = 77-85-93-105-117-129 sts remain on back piece and 44-48-53-59-65-71 sts remain on each front piece.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 64-64-68-68-76-76 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with ruby red. K 1 round. Then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 3 cm / 1’’.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round with ruby red while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-16-16-16-20-20 sts evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-56 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2.
After A.2 continue in stockinette st with gray. When piece measures 7-8-10-10-12-10 cm / 2¾”-3 1/8”-4”-4”-4¾”-4”, inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm / 1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4”, 12-14-13-15-14-16 more times (= 13-15-14-16-15-17 inc total) = 74-78-80-84-86-90 sts.
When piece measures 45-45-45-44-44-44 cm / 17¾”-17¾”-17¾”-17¼”-17¼”-17¼” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulder), bind off 12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. Bind off 6 sts on each side of marker) = 62-66-68-72-74-78 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 289-313-335-367-395-427 sts. P 1 row from WS (bands in garter st) while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-6-6-6-6 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP 2 = 285-309-329-361-389-421 sts. Work 0-1-2-0-1-2 cm / 0”-½”-3/4”-0”-½”-3/4” in stockinette st with gray.
Work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts as before, work pattern according to diagram A.3 (choose diagram for size) until 7 sts remain on row, work 1st st in A.3 (so that pattern is the same in each side towards mid front) and finish with 6 band sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this.
AT THE SAME TIME on row marked with arrow A in diagram dec 12-20-24-24-36-36 sts evenly from RS (do not dec over bands ) = 273-289-305-337-353-385 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow B in diagram dec 26-27-28-36-37-39 sts evenly = 247-262-277-301-316-346 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow C in diagram dec 30-33-36-36-39-45 sts evenly = 217-229-241-265-277-301 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow D in diagram dec 32-36-40-48-44-52 sts evenly = 185-193-201-217-233-249 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow E in diagram dec 32-36-40-48-60-60 sts evenly = 153-157-161-169-173-189 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow F in diagram (= last row and WS) dec 35-35-35-39-39-47 sts evenly = 118-122-126-130-134-142 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and ruby red and work next row from RS as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain on row and finish with K 2 and 6 band sts in garter st.
Continue rib like this. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows rib work an elevation in the neck with short rows as follows: Work rib (and band) as before until 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts remain on needle, turn and work rib back until 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts remain on the other side. Turn and work rib until 28-28-30-30-32-32 sts remain on needle, turn and work rib back until 28-28-30-30-32-32 sts remain on the other side. Turn and work rib until 36-36-38-38-40-40 sts remain on needle, turn and work rib back until 36-36-38-38-40-40 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece and work rib (and band) the rest of the row. Then continue rib back and forth over all sts as before until rib measures approx. 3 cm / 1’’ at the most narrow mid front.
Loosely bind off with K over K and P over P. Yoke measures approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8’’-8¼’’-8¾’’-9’’-9½’’-9¾’’ and entire jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.08.2015
New chart A.3 (row 16.-18. size S-M-L and row 20.-22. size XL-XXL-XXXL).
Updated online: 17.12.2020
New chart A.1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = gray
symbols = off white
symbols = ruby red
symbols = heather
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Cristin Byman wrote:

Får inte mönstret att stämma efter första minskning A3

24.02.2022 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Cristin. Hvilken størrelse strikker du (diagram for S+M+L eller diagram for Xl+XXL+XXXL)? Mulig det ikke stemmer i den str. du strikker i når du ser på selve diagrammet, men om du har det maskeantallet det står i oppskriften skal det være riktig. mvh DROPS Design

28.02.2022 - 14:10

country flag Gunbritt Johansson wrote:

Stickar "September Jacket"Lima modell nr li-027 kofta fram och tillbaka på rundsticka. Mönster A.1 = vita maskor var 4e v. Det vita garnet är då på "fel" sida av arbetet. Klipper jag av det blir det ju mycket trådar att fästa och kanske inte så snyggt. Eller ska jag låta det vita garnet följa med på nästkommande aviga varv? M.v.h Gunbritt Johansson

06.12.2020 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunbritt, vi skal høre med design, om du ikke vil klippe tråden, skulle du kunne flytte lusene til hver 5.pind. God fornøjelse!

15.12.2020 - 14:16

country flag Hanne Elena Rørbech wrote:

Vil gerne have en udprintet opskrift af denne sendt med garnet jeg bestiller. O.K ?

04.11.2016 - 23:30

country flag Hanne Elena Rørbech wrote:

Vil gerne have en udprintet opskrift af denne sendt med garnet jeg bestiller. O.K ?

02.11.2016 - 10:14

country flag Susanna wrote:

In der Anleitung steht, dass beim Rumpf nach 8 cm vier Maschen abgenommen werden sollen. Ist das Maß inklusive des Bündchens oder gemessen ab Bündchen? Vielen Dank!

25.01.2016 - 21:06

DROPS Design answered:

Es ist die Gesamtlänge gemeint, ab dem Anschlag.

29.01.2016 - 10:58

country flag Dähn, Heike wrote:

Da die "Läuse" nur in jeder 5. Reihe vorkommen, ist das immer eine Hinreihe. Wie bekomme ich den weißen Faden da wieder an den Anfang? Muss ich da jedesmal abschneiden und so viele Fäden verstechen? Ich fänd es besser, wenn die "Läuse" einmal in einer Hin- und beim nächsten Mal in der Rückreihe vorkämen. Kann jemand helfen, der so etwas schon einmal gestrickt hat?

13.07.2015 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, Sie müssen den Faden eigentlich jedes Mal neu ansetzen. Alternativ könnten Sie den Faden über die Rück-R mitführen (d.h. immer mal wieder nach ein paar M mit dem Arbeitsfaden verkreuzen) und dann bis zur nächsten "Läuse-R" innerhalb der Blende nach oben mitführen.

20.07.2015 - 12:03

country flag Anne Marie De Brauwere wrote:

Beste Bij de teltekening van het bovenstuk de aubergine bloem ( 4de tekening van onderaan te tellen) springt de tekening drie hokjes naar links. De onderste tekening echter begint onmiddellijk bij het eerste hokje. Moet ik dan eerst vier hokjes naar links tellen vanaf de zes voorbiessteken? Ook het volgende motief begint drie hokjes meer naar links. Moet ik dan weerom drie steken verder beginnen? Dank voor uw hulp! vriendelijke groeten A De brauwere

13.03.2015 - 09:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Anne Marie. Je begint onderaan het patroon voor jouw maat. Door de minderingen voor de pas bij A, B, C enzovoort (Lees in PAS) worden er minder steken per herhaling van het patroon, daarom zijn er ook minder hokjes op de teltekening. Lees hier hoe je onze teltekeningen moet lezen

13.03.2015 - 15:40

country flag Stina wrote:

Er der ikke en uoverensstemmelse mellem billedet og diagram A.3? Linje 16-18 står i diagrammet til at skulle strikkes i natur og lyng men er på billedet i natur og rubinrød.

19.01.2015 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Stina, Jeg tror du har ret, det skal vi få rettet i diagrammerne. Tak for hjælpen! :)

02.02.2015 - 14:55

country flag Agneta wrote:

När man stickar mönster A1 ska man ta och klippa av det vita garnet för varje mönstervarv?

05.01.2015 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Agneta. Nej, det er ikke nödvendigt hver gang. Du strikker jo flere varv med vit, og er der kun et par pinde imellem de vita, saa ville jeg före traaden med. Med laengere afstand vil jeg klippe traaden.

06.01.2015 - 16:42

country flag Mund wrote:

Hallo, nach dem Bündchen vom Rupfteil werden laut Anleitung 59 Maschen (in Größe XL) in einer Reihe abgenommen. Habe ich das richtig verstanden? Warum ist das so?

19.11.2013 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Mund, wenn man am Bündchen mit höherer Maschenzahl strickt, wird es locker und zieht sich nicht zusammen. Wenn Ihnen das nicht gefällt, können Sie gerne das Bündchen schon mit geringerer Maschenzahl stricken.

19.11.2013 - 22:56