DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 24-11
DROPS design: Pattern no me-013-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 64-68-74-78-82 cm / 25 1/4"-26 3/4"-29"-30 3/4"-32 1/4"
Full length: 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g color no 19, light gray blue
50 g for all sizes in color no 13, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 sts x 12 rows with pattern= 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.


OWL:
Measurements: approx. height 10 cm / 4''
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50 g color no 26, pistachio
50 g color no 13, denim blue
+ some-left over yarn color no 18 green, 30 mustard and 01 off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / D - for owl

ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling.
Key chain with hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On every sc row replace first sc with 1 ch.
On every dc row replace first dc with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
ROW 1: 1 dc in every sc.
ROW 2: 1 sc in every dc.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by working 2 sts tog.
Work 2 sc tog as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull thread through, insert hook in next st and pull thread through, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.
Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.

MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, work ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end at the back.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a nice transition between the color changes, work last sl st on round with the new color as follows: Insert hook in last ch from beg of round, make a YO with the new color and pull it through st on hook.

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VEST:
To make the texture the same on the piece work it back and forth in 2 parts, and sew tog when finished.

FRONT PIECE:
Ch 62-67-71-76-81 with Merino Extra Fine on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Continue with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in each of the next 4-2-6-4-2 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 54-58-62-66-70 sc (first ch = 1 sc). READ CROCHET INFO! Turn and work 4 rows with 1 sc in every sc.
Then work PATTERN until finished measurements - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4"-5"-5½", inc 1 st in each side by working 2 sts in the second and next to last st. Repeat inc when piece measures 20-21-22-23-24 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½" = 58-62-66-70-74 sts. When piece measures approx. 24-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½" (make sure that next row is a row with sc), dec for armholes as follows: Work sl sts over the first 3 dc, continue with sc until 3 dc remain, turn. * Work 3 ch in first sc, then work the next 2 dc tog – SEE DECREASE TIP, then work dc until 3 sc remain, work the next 2 dc tog, then 1 dc in last sc.
Turn and work 1 row with sc over all dc, turn *. Repeat from *-* 3 more times = 44-48-52-56-60 sts on row. When piece measures 29-31-34-36-39 cm / 11½"-12 1/4"-13½"-14 1/4"-15 1/4", beg neck line and finish each shoulder separately.

1ST SHOULDER:
Work only over the first 16-17-18-20-21 sts.
Turn and work back - at the same time work the first 4 sts towards neck tog 2 by 2 – SEE DECREASE TIP! On next row work the 2 outermost sts towards neck tog, repeat this dec on every row 2 more times = 11-12-13-15-16 sts remain on shoulder.
Continue to work until piece measures 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4", fasten off.

2ND SHOULDER:
Work as first shoulder – make sure to beg in the correct side of piece so that the texture is the same the entire way.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece to and with armhole dec = 44-48-52-56-60 sts on row. Continue to work until piece measures approx. 36-39-42-45-48 cm / 14 1/4"-15 1/4"-16½"-17 3/4"-19".
Now work 2 rows with pattern as before only over the 11-12-13-15-16 sts in each side (the middle 22-24-26-26-28 sts = neck). Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and side seams, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck and around the armhole with denim blue on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Work 1 sc in every sc and 2 sc in every row with dc. Fasten off.

TWO-SIDED STUFFED OWL:
Worked in the round in Merino Extra Fine. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - with green on hook size 3 mm / D.
ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO and COLOR CHANGE! Work 8 sc in the magic circle.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in first sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc and 1 dc in next sc, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 dc and 1 hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc on round = 16 sts.
ROUND 3: Switch to pistachio and work 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 tr in front loop and 1 tr in back loop of each of the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st on round = 28 sts.
ROUND 4: Work 1 sc in every st the entire round.
ROUND 5: Switch to denim blue and work 1 sc in first st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in same st, 2 tr in next st, 1 ch (= top of ear), 2 tr in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in same st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in next st and 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, 2 tr in each of the next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in same st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in same st, 2 tr in next st, 1 ch (= top of ear), 2 tr in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in same st, 1 sc in last st on round = 50 sts (+ 2 ch). Work another owl the same way. Fasten off.

EYES:
Worked in the round. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - with denim blue.
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO - Work 6 sc in the magic circle.
ROUND 2: Switch to off white and work 2 sc in every sc the entire round = 12 sc.
Work another eye the same way. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the eyes on the owl. Embroider on the beak with mustard as follows: Beg in the mid of the magic circle and sew a stitch down to 2nd round 2 times, and sew from the mid of circle and diagonally down to 1st round on each side of the first stitches; only 1 time on each side.

Then work the owl tog with pistachio. Place the two owls on top of each other, WS against WS, with the beak towards you. Work through both layers as follows: Work 2 sc in ch at the top of ear on the left side. Then work as follows: 1 sc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next st and 1 dc in same st, 2 tr in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 hdc in same st, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, insert 1 marker in the last st and work 1 sc in each of the next 14 sts, 1 hdc in next st and 1 dc in same st, 2 tr in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 hdc in same st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts and work 2 sc in ch (= top of right ear). Fill the owl with some poly stuffing and continue as follows: 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts and finish round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 60 sts. Fasten off.

Work claws in mustard. Beg in the st with marker as follows: * 1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc in next st, ch 4, 1 sc in next st, ch 3, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Fasten off. Fasten a key chain with hook to the back of owl.

SIMPLE OWL PATCH:
Work as two-sided owl but work only one owl. Work around the owl with pistachio the same way as around the two-sided owl. Work claws the same way. Fasten the owl on to vest – see picture.
Below the owl work a branch as follows: Work sc with denim blue on hook size 3 mm / D. Work approx. 25 sc, slant a bit at the end. Then work a small branch upwards, beg approx. 8 sc before the end of the long branch, and work 5 sc upwards - see picture.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Linda wrote:

Some cute patterns here on this site but I cannot even find the basic information of Level to complete this pattern~ I can do all things but find all the information. Maybe it will take time but ugh I really like doing Amigurumi for the Holidays and can find none of them? Do you not have toys?

09.11.2022 - 02:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, there is no level stated since this is quite individually - read the pattern thoroughly and feel free to ask any question here if needed - you will find all our crocheted toys here. Happy crocheting!

09.11.2022 - 08:34

country flag Simkóné Nagy Judit wrote:

Bocsánat, a korábbi kérdésem kiegészítéséhez szólok, közben rájöttem, hogy a kérdéses sornál az 5 számjegy az 5 különböző méretre vonatkozik. Így megoldódott a problémám. 😊

13.05.2022 - 11:38

country flag Simkóné Nagy Judit wrote:

Az elsó sorban az első erp a 4.szembe, ez rendben, de utána 1rp a köv. 2-2-6-4-2 lsz-be, ez azt jelenti, hogy onnan a 2.majd 2.és hatodik stb.szembe megy rövidpálca? Azután pedig az 1 láncszem, 6 erp minta folytatódik. A sor elejét nem értem, vagy nem jól értelmezem, vagy nem jó a leírás?

12.05.2022 - 13:15

country flag Benedek-Kováts, Emese wrote:

A magyar fordításban rosszul van a próba. Nem 18 RPx 12 sor, hanem 18 szem x 12 sor minta (1 sor rp 1 sor erp váltakozva).

27.12.2020 - 21:07

country flag JUANA wrote:

LA AYUDA ES EXCELENTE PARA TEJER PARA MIS NIETOS, GRACIAS

17.08.2020 - 20:07

country flag Eileen O'Keeffe wrote:

What stitch is used in swatch for Merlin vest.

05.02.2020 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs O'Keeffe, the tension is measured with the pattern used in the vest - see PATTERN (= 1 row with trebles/1 row with double crochets (UK-English)). Happy crocheting!

06.02.2020 - 09:26

country flag Anne wrote:

Hej er der en fejl i staten med l lm kan ikke få det til at passe og til at det i næste rakke skal blive 54

23.12.2016 - 11:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne. Du starter med 62 lm og haekler: Fortsæt med 1 fm i 2.lm fra nålen = 2 fm, derefter 1 fm i hver af de næste 4 lm, * spring over 1 lm, 1 fm i hver at de næste 6 lm *, gentag fra *-* rækken ud = 54 fm = inden *-* har du haeklet 6 fm over 6 lm (förste fm er en lm som du vendte med) og har 56 lm tilbage, du haekler 6 fm over 7 lm, dvs 8 gentagelser = 8x6 = 48 + 6 fm fra starten = 54 fm

30.12.2016 - 13:03

country flag Nathalie Dillen wrote:

Ik begrijp het patroon niet meer vanaf hals en schouder. Er staat starten met hals en eindigen met schouder maar bij de uitleg starten ze toch niet aan kant waar hals komt?

18.03.2014 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Nathalie. Je haakt de schouders apart. Dus eerst haak je over de eerste 16-17-18-20-21 st van het pand = schouder 1. Als je hiermee klaar bent, dan ga je aan de andere kant van het pand en haakt over de 16-17-18-20-21 st hier - dus dat betekent dat je een opening hebt ertussen voor de hals van bijv 12 st (kleinste maat).

19.03.2014 - 11:31