DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-918
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-021
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-112-122-134 cm / 33"-36 1/4"-39½"-44"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½"

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-700-750-800 g color no 22, brown

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 sts x 8 rows with textured pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 540: 3 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on every sc row with 1 ch.
Replace first tr on every tr row with 4 ch.

TEXTURED PATTERN:
ROW 1 (= WS): 1 sc in every tr.
ROW 2 (= RS): 1 tr in every sc.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row.

CROCHET 2 SC TOG AS FOLLOWS:
Insert hook in tr, pull thread through, insert hook in next tr, pull thread through, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
First work right front piece and cast on for sleeve, then work left front piece the same way. Then work the 2 parts tog down the back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
CH 38-42-46-50-55-60 loosely on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Cotton Light.
Then work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and 1 sc in each of the next 6-4-2-6-5-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 33-36-39-43-47-51 sc (first sc = 1 ch). READ CROCHET INFO! Turn piece and work back with 1 tr in every sc.
Continue with TEXTURED PATTERN - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
SIDE DEC: When piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4'', dec 1 st in the side – dec at the beg on 1 row with sc by working the 2nd and 3rd sc tog – see explanation above. Repeat dec every 10 cm / 4'' 3 more times = 29-32-35-39-43-47 sts on row.
READ BOTH NECK DEC AND SLEEVE BEFORE CONTINUING!
NECK DEC:
When piece measures approx. 42-44-45-47-49-50 cm / 16½"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-19 3/4", dec 1 st towards mid front – dec at the end of 1 row with sc by working the next to last 2 sc towards mid front tog. Repeat dec on every row with sc 6-6-6-7-7-8 more times.
SLEEVE: When piece measures approx. 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'', ch 38-36-34-31-28-25 loosely (fewer sts in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders) at the end of row towards the side - make sure that this row is worked from RS with tr.
Turn and work back as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 6-4-2-5-2-5 sc, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* over all ch (= 33-31-29-27-24-22 sc), then work sc the rest of row.
Continue with textured pattern as before over all sts.
When sts have been cast on for sleeve and all sts for neck have been dec, there are 55-56-57-58-59-60 sts on row. Work until piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½" in total, insert a marker = mid on top of shoulder.
Work approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', finish after 1 row with tr, put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Work as right but reversed. I.e. when casting on sts for sleeve, cut the thread after 1 row with sc when piece measures approx. 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4''.
Then beg by working 38-36-34-31-28-25 loose ch, and then work tr over sts on front piece, turn and work sc on the way back, over ch-row on sleeve work as follows: * 1 sc in each of the first ch 5, skip 1 sc *, repeat from *-* until 8-6-4-7-4-7 ch remain, work 1 sc in each of these = 33-31-29-27-24-22 sc over sleeve.
Continue with textured pattern and dec for neck as on right side until piece is the same length as right front piece - count so that the same no of rows has been worked on both front pieces.

BACK PIECE:
1st row = WS. Work sc over the 55-56-57-58-59-60 tr on right front piece, then work 14-14-14-16-16-18 loose ch (= back of neck), before working sc over the 55-56-57-58-59-60 tr on left front piece.
Turn and work 1 tr in every sc and in every ch in the back of neck = 124-126-128-132-134-138 tr in total on row. Work textured pattern as before.
When piece measures approx. 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾'' from marker on shoulder, cut the thread.
The sleeves are now done, and the 33-31-29-27-24-22 sts in each side are no longer worked.
Continue as before over the middle 58-64-70-78-86-94 sts. When approx. 5-6-7-8-9-10 cm / 2"-2½"-2 3/4"-3"-3½"-4" have been worked after sleeve dec, inc 1 st in each side by working 2 sts in next to last st in each side.
Repeat inc every 10 cm / 4'' 3 more times = 66-72-78-86-94-102 sts. When piece measures approx. 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½" - finish after 1 row with sc - cut the thread.

POCKET:
Work 24-24-24-26-26-26 loose ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8. Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch.
Continue with sc back and forth on all rows until pocket measures 16-16-16-17-17-17 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4", cut the thread.
Crochet another pocket.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the piece at the marker on shoulder, sew side and sleeve seams edge to edge in front loop of outermost st.
Work 2 rows with sc along the bands and around the neck (work approx. 3 sc along every tr and 1 sc in every sc, i.e. approx. 16 sc on 10 cm / 4'').
Sew on pockets approx. 5-6 cm / 2''-2½'' from bottom edge and approx. 5-6 cm / 2''-2½'' from mid front.
Sew on the top button on left band on the row where dec for neck begins - sew in the first row made with sc along the edge.
Sew the bottom button slightly above pocket and place the middle button in between the two other buttons.
Button through sts on the right side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-918

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Lilian wrote:

I will try doing this beautiful jacket eith colour blocking cause my stash think doesn't 14 or 16 balls in one colour.But first have to finish my Poncho! Cheerio

08.07.2022 - 18:52

country flag Marcela Alicia Roge wrote:

Very clear explanations!!!! It came out just as instructions say. Beautiful pattern. Thanks a lot!!!

28.09.2020 - 11:51

country flag Mrs Jennifer Allen wrote:

I do not understand instructions for neck shaping/decreasing. Can you help please? Regards

11.08.2017 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mrs Allen, If you are working the right front piece, at the right length you start decreasing for the neck by working the next to last 2 double crochets on the row (at the end towards mid front) together. There is a description of how to do this at the top of the pattern. Repeat this decrease on every row with double crochets the required number of times. I hope this helps and happy crocheting!

12.08.2017 - 08:07

country flag Jann Van De Luitgaarden wrote:

U schrijft: Dat is de rij van vaste die je haakt in het patroon (toer 1 van het structuurpatroon) Dat doe ik al en daarna haak ik toer 2 van het patroon de 3 dubbele stokjes, maar het ziet er anders uit als op het patroon.

29.07.2015 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Beste Jann. Ik kan je helaas niet verder helpen dan dit. Ik heb nagekeken en het patroon bij mij komt overeen met wat ik op deze foto zie.

29.07.2015 - 15:07

country flag Jann Van De Luitgaarden wrote:

Helaas is mijn vraag niet goed beantwoord, ik probeer het nogmaals uit te leggen . Op de foto in van het model zie je 3 dubbel gehaakte stokjes, daartussen een rij met dwars liggende v-tjes en daarna weer de stokjes. Als ik haak volgens het patroon komt er in mijn haakwerk geen rij met dwarsliggende v-tjes

29.07.2015 - 07:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jann. Dat is de rij van vaste die je haakt in het patroon (toer 1 van het structuurpatroon)

29.07.2015 - 12:01

country flag Jann Van De Luitgaarden wrote:

In het model DROPS Extra 0-918 lukt het mij niet om de rand met de v-tjes te haken. Ik haak volgens dit patroongedeelte: TRUCTUURPATROON: TOER 1 (= verkeerde kant): 1 v in elk dstk. TOER 2 (= goede kant): 1 dstk in elke v. Herhaal 1e en 2e toer.

28.07.2015 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jann. De beschrijving voor de rand van het vest vind je onder AFWERKING: Haak 2 toeren met v langs de voorbiezen en langs de hals (haak ongeveer 3 v langs elk dstk en 1 v in elke v, dus ongeveer 16 v per 10 cm).

28.07.2015 - 15:33

country flag Mr wrote:

Hei Jeg er nybegynner i hekling. Jeg har fullført høyre forsk på jakken. I oppskriften står det at keg skal hekle omvendt ved venstre forsk. Hvordan gjør jeg det. Det er tydelig forskjell på rett og vrang. Hvis jeg hekler vendte siden identisk som høyre og vender tøye så er det tydelig forskjell mellom den.

03.03.2015 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du hekler venstre forstk på samme måde men med udtagninger til ærme i modsat side. Starten er forklaret i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

25.05.2015 - 15:13

country flag K. Coshof wrote:

In the section SLEEVE the pattern says to "insert a marker = mid on top of shoulder." Does this mean halfway between the neck edge and the start of the sleeve? Also, WHY? I don't understand at all. Second, in LEFT FRONT PIECE & SLEEVE you give instructions for working "in reverse", but why is this necessary? The piece is exactly the same as the right front/sleeve and can be worked the same way then turned so that it's the mirror-image of the right piece.

07.03.2014 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Coshof, you insert a marker on mid top of shoulder, piece will be then folded where markers are on each shoulder. Next 2 cm are then before neckline on back piece. Happy crocheting!

07.03.2014 - 16:54