DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.75$.

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DROPS 145-14
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-020
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm /
31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm /
22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 27, mint

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6 – or size needed to get 16 sts lace pattern (A.2) = width 10 cm / 4''. 1 repetition of A.3 measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' in width.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm /US 4 – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 192-212-224-244-272-300 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Light. Work rib K 2/P 2.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 48-52-56-60-64-76 sts evenly = 144-160-168-184-208-224 sts.
Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 72-80-84-92-104-112 sts = sides.
Then work as follows: * K 1, A.1 A (= 2 sts), work A.1 B over the next 20-24-26-30-36-40 sts, A.1 C (= 2 sts), A.3 (= 22 sts), A.2 A (= 2 sts), repeat A.2 B over the next 20-24-26-30-36-40 sts, A.2 C (= 2 sts), K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time.
Continue the pattern like this.
When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾'' (on next round without holes), bind off 4 sts on each side of every marker = 64-72-76-84-96-104 sts on front piece and 64-72-76-84-96-104 sts on back piece.
Now finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 64-72-76-84-96-104 sts. Continue as follows - beg from RS: K 1, A.1A, repeat A.1B over the next 16-20-22-26-32-36 sts, A.1C, A.3, A.2 A, repeat A.2 B over the next 16-20-22-26-32-36 sts, A.2 C, K 1.
Continue pattern until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''.
Now bind off the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 sts for neck = 16-20-21-25-30-34 sts remain on each shoulder.
Finish each shoulder separately.
Continue with A.1/A.2 with K 1 towards the armhole.
When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'', bind off all sts.

FRONT PIECE:
= 64-72-76-84-96-104 sts. Continue as follows - beg from RS: K 1, A.1 A, repeat A.1 B over the next 16-20-22-26-32-36 sts, A.1C, A.3, A.2 A, repeat A.2 B over the next 16-20-22-26-32-36 sts, A.2 C, K 1.
Continue pattern until piece measures 50-52-54-55-57-59 cm / 19¾''-20½''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''.
Slip the middle 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts on a stitch holder for neck. Then finish each shoulder separately (continue with pattern as before), AT THE SAME TIME bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 16-20-21-25-30-34 sts remain on needle.
Bind off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. NOTE! All measurements must be done when the piece is held up so that it not too long.
Cast on 50-50-54-54-58-58 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Light.
Work rib K 2/P 2 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-10-12-10-12-10 sts evenly = 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts.
P 1 row. Continue with A.4 with 1 edge st in each side.
Continue this pattern, when piece measures 8-8-8-8-7-7 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3"-2 3/4"-2 3/4", inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 4 cm / 1½'' 9-9-10-10-11-12 more times (10-10-11-11-12-13 inc in total) = 58-60-64-66-70-74 sts – work the inc sts in A.4.
When piece measures 53-52-51-50-47-46 cm / 21"-20½"-20"-19 3/4"-18½"-18" (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row: 5 sts 3 times in each side = 28-30-34-36-40-44 sts. Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-55-54-53-50-49 cm / 22"-21 5/8"-21 1/8"-21"-19 3/4"-19 1/4".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the underarm seams.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 80 to 94 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holders) on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Light.
Work 2 ridges in garter st - see explanation above. Bind off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.08.2014
FRONT PIECE:
= 64-72-76-84-96-104 sts. Continue as follows - beg from RS: K 1, A.1 A, repeat A.1 B over the next 16-20-22-26-32-36 sts, A.1C, A.3, A.2 A, repeat A.2 B over the next 16-20-22-26-32-36 sts, A.2 C, K 1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Sue wrote:

Do you have a video of this pattern?

26.05.2022 - 00:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, you can find all videos related to this pattern below the pattern instructions. There is no full video to make this pattern. Happy knitting!

26.05.2022 - 23:08

country flag Wiebranda wrote:

Hallo, bij dit patroon wordt de mouw in A4 gebreid, dan zou er min of meer een 'zigzag'patroon moeten ontstaan (zie ik bij de instructievideo's bij deze trui). Als ik echter de mouw op de foto bekijk lijkt dat niet zo. De steek ziet er net zo uit als op het voorpand.

18.04.2020 - 11:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wiebranda,

Klopt, het patroon voor de mouw geeft geen zigzag patroon, maar een recht gaatjespatroon.

29.04.2020 - 10:01

country flag A De Groot-Posset wrote:

Ik heb nog nooit eerder geblockt , heb op Internet gezocht en verschillende manieren gevonden. Welke zou jij toepassen bij dit garen?

02.09.2016 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi. Eerlijk gezegd weet ik dat ook niet, ik heb het nog nooit gedaan bij dit garen. Ik zou ook kijken op internet en blocken van katoengaren.

02.09.2016 - 14:06

country flag A De Groot-Posset wrote:

Hallo, ik wil de trui graag blocken. Hoe moet ik dat doen?

31.08.2016 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi. Ik zou het doen net zoals je ook andere dingen blockt - maar niet te ver rekken, dus blijven binnen de vermelde afmetingen in het patroon. Succes

01.09.2016 - 12:17

country flag Barbara wrote:

Proszę opisać dokładniej i bez skrótów, bo mi się nie zgadza* 1 o.p., A.1 A (= 2 o.), A.1 B ponad 20-24-26-30-36-40 nast. o., A.1 C (= 2 o.), A.3 (= 22 o.), A.2 A (= 2 o.), powt. A.2 B ponad 20-24-26-30-36-40 nast. o., A.2 C (= 2 o.), 1 o.p. *, powt. od *-* jeszcze 1 raz. Dalej przer. następująco. ???

12.02.2016 - 19:32

DROPS Design answered:

1 oczko prawe, schemat A.1 A (= 2 oczka), schemat A.1 B ponad 20-24-26-30-36-40 następnymi oczkami, schemat A.1 C (= 2 oczka), schemat A.3 (= 22 oczka), schemat A.2 A (= 2 oczka), powtórzyć schemat A.2 B ponad 20-24-26-30-36-40 następnymi oczkami, schemat A.2 C (= 2 oczka), 1 oczko prawe *, powtórzyć od *-* jeszcze 1 raz. Dalej przer. tak samo. POZDRAWIAMY

12.02.2016 - 21:51

country flag Elsabeth Thomsen wrote:

Hej! Er lige blevet færdig med blusen og glædede mig til at få den med på ferie, men suk!! Den "drypper" ca 10 cm i hver side i forhold til midten og kan ikke bruges. Jeg er gået slavisk efter opskriften og forstår ikke hvorfor den er blevet sådan. Håber i kan hjælpe mig. Med venlig hilsen Elsabeth

15.04.2015 - 13:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elsabeth. Det er synd. Vi kan desvaerre ikke bedömme paa afstand hvorfor dette er sket, umiddelbart vil jeg tro at delen med "netmönstret" i siden er lösere strikket end mönstret i midten og derfor haenger (strikkefastheden). Du kan eventuelt tage den med til din DROPS butik saa de ogsaa kan se den.

15.04.2015 - 15:32

country flag Jonna Jonsen wrote:

Jeg er ved at være færdig med denne bluse. Desværre kommer jeg til at mangle garn til ½ ærme. Strikker str. S, og har endda købt garn til str. M. altså 400g "Cotton Light". Det er rigtig ærgerligt. Nu kan jeg nok ikke få samme indfarvning. Med venlig hilsen Jonna Jonsen

20.02.2015 - 08:57

country flag Rigmor Rehnström wrote:

Hej! Jag håller på att sticka denna tröja i storleken XXXL och jag ser att garnet inte kommer att räcka är er beräkning rätt på åtgången? Har rätt masktäthet.

20.10.2014 - 23:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rigmor, Vi ser att många har stickat modellen och att vi inte har fått några kommentarer tidigare om att det skulle vara för lite garn. Stickar du i Cotton Light? Skriv gärna till oss om hur många nystan Cotton Light du har anv, då skall vi se på den största storleken igen.

22.10.2014 - 13:29

country flag Päivi wrote:

A2- ja A1 näkyvät kuvan puserossa keskikuvion molemmin puolin sitä reunustaen . Neuleen Ohje antaa ymmärtää toisin. Olen katsonut videot pitsineuleesta A2 ja A1. Tein lopulta version mallineuleella A3 koko puseron taka- ja etukpl erikseen.

18.10.2014 - 00:43

country flag Lammie wrote:

Wat is de steken verhouding, Er staat twee keer een breedte, maat op ,maar weet niet hoeveel naalden in de hoogte voor 10 cm.

14.08.2014 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Lammie. Voor dit patroon meten we alleen de stekenverhouding in de breedte: 16 st in kantpatroon (A.2) = 10 cm breed EN 1 herhaling van A.3 meet ongeveer 10 cm in de breedte.

14.08.2014 - 16:06