DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 147-11
DROPS design: Pattern no R-624
Yarn group B
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-110-120-132 cm /
33"-36 1/4"-40"-43½"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm /
21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850-900 g color no 77, khaki

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 17 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 6 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on every row with 3 ch and finish every row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

BAND PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
--------------------------------------------------------

BACK PIECE:
Read US/UK above! With Muskat ch 89-96-106-116-126-139 on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Turn and work as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in each of the next 2-4-4-4-4-2 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 72-78-86-94-102-112 sc (this first row was worked from WS, first ch on row = 1 sc).
Continue with 1 dc in every sc - READ CROCHET INFO. Then continue with 1 dc in each dc.
When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'', dec for armhole by working sl sts over the first 2-3-6-8-10-13 dc on row, then work 1 sl st + 3 ch in next dc, then dc until 2-3-6-8-10-13 dc remain, turn piece. There are now 68-72-74-78-82-86 dc on row.
Continue to work back and forth over these until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'', now work 2 rows only over the first 19-21-22-24-26-28 dc in one side for shoulder.
Cut the yarn.
Then work 2 rows with dc over 19-21-22-24-26-28 dc on the other shoulder (the middle 30 dc = neck).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
With Muskat ch 49-52-57-62-67-74 on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in each of the next 2-5-5-5-5-2 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 40-43-47-51-55-60 sc (this first row was worked from WS, first ch = 1 sc).
Turn and continue as follows: Diagram A.1 over the first 19 sc – beg with row marked with an arrow, continue with 1 dc in each of the last 21-24-28-32-36-41 sc.
Continue like this upwards - i.e. repeat the top 4 rows in diagram over the outermost 19 sts towards mid front and dc over the other sts.
When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'', the outermost 2-3-6-8-10-13 dc towards the armhole are no longer worked.
Continue the pattern as before (there are now 19-21-22-24-26-28 dc after diagram A.1).
When piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-51 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-18½"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20", the outermost 19 sts towards mid front are no longer worked (i.e. diagram A.1) = 19-21-22-24-26-28 dc remain on row.
Continue back and forth with dc over these until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed, i.e. after 1 row with sc work as follows: 21-24-28-32-36-41 dc, then A.2 over the last 19 sts towards mid front.

SLEEVE:
To get the same texture as on body, work the sleeve back and forth and sew it tog when finished.
Work 45-47-50-52-55-57 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Muskat. Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Then work 1 sc in each of the next 3-5-3-5-3-5 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 37-39-41-43-45-47 sc (this first row was worked from WS, first ch = 1 sc).
Turn and continue with 1 dc in every st upwards.
When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', inc 1 dc in each side by working 2 dc in first and last dc.
Repeat inc 11-12-12-13-14-14 more times:
SIZE S: Alternately every 3rd and 4th row,
Size M and L: Every 3rd row.
SIZE XL: Alternately every other and 3rd row.
Size XXL and XXXL: Every other row.
After all inc there are 61-65-67-71-75-77 dc on row. When piece measures 54-53-50-49-47-45 cm / 21 1/4"-21"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-18½"-17 3/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), insert 1 marker in the side (this marks how far up the sleeve is sewn tog).
Continue with dc until piece measures 55-55-54-54-53-52 cm / 21½"-21½"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21"-20½", cut the yarn.

POCKET EDGES (for decoration):
With Muskat ch 20-20-22-22-24-24 LOOSELY on hook size 4 mm / G/6 .
Turn, skip 1 ch and work 1 sc in each of the remaining 19-19-21-21-23-23 ch.
Continue back and forth with sc until edge measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', cut the yarn.
Work another pocket edge.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew all seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew shoulder seams and side seams. Then sew sleeve seams up to marker and sew in the sleeves.
Sew 1 pocket edge on each front piece (sew at the bottom by the cast on edge and along the sides) – they should be placed approx. 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4''-4''-4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾'' from bottom edge and directly inside the lace pattern on bands.
Sew 6 buttons on to left band.
Sew the first 1 cm / 3/8'' from neck dec - and approx. 0.5 cm / 1/4'' in from mid front, distribute the other 5 buttons evenly down the band.
Button through sts on the right side.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 147-11

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Bodart Annie wrote:

Bonjour, pourriez -vous me dire quelles sont les dimensions (la largeur) de la manche au niveau du poignet pour les différentes tailles, s\'il vous plaît ? Je regrette beaucoup que cette mesure ne soit jamais reprise dans tous vos modèles. Merci pour votre réponse.

24.04.2022 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bodart, vous pouvez la recalculer d'après la tension pour votre taille, autrement dit, l'échantillon fait 17 brides = 10 cm; en taille S, vous avez 37 brides au 1er rang du bas de la manche soit 37/1.7 = 21.7 soit environ 22 cm. Quand toutes les augmentations sont faites, vous avez 61 brides soit 61/1.7=35.9 soit environ 36 cm. Bon crochet!

25.04.2022 - 07:46

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, Parfait;merci ! Autre petit souci pour les diagrammes au rang 3 puis rang 4 : doit-on piquer les B inclinées dans les B du rang précédent ou bien dans l'arceau du rang précédent (ml en l'air) ? ---Je ne parle pas du groupe de 5B (qui sont piquées dans l'arceau) mais des autres en début et fin de rang... Avec ce symbole de B on devrait piquer dans des mailles, mais on ne voit pas bien dans laquelle... Merci d'avance pour vos explications...

04.01.2020 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, les brides obliques sont crochetées dans l'arceau du rang précédent. Bon crochet!

06.01.2020 - 08:14

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, comme noté dans les explications, on doit se retrouver avec 72 mailles pour le début du dos en taille S.... Et pas 71 ml.... Et visiblement pour les autres parties, même décalage d'une maille.... ??? Pour être rigoureuse..... Merci.....

02.01.2020 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, la 1ère ml compte comme 1ère ms: 1 ms dans la 2ème ml à partir du crochet (= 2 ms, 2 ml), 1 ms dans chacune des 2 ml suivantes (= 2 ms, 2 ml), *sautez 1 ml, 1 ms dans les 4 m suiv* (= 4 ms, 5 ml) répétez de *à* 17 fois au total (= 17x4 ms, 5 ml = 68 ms, 85 ml). Vous avez donc: 2 + 2 + 68 ms = 72 ms sur une chaînette de 2+2+85= 89 mailles en l'air. Bon crochet!

02.01.2020 - 16:13

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, je reviens sur ma question pour le début du dos en taille S.... On obtient que 71 ml au lieu de 72 ml.... D'avance merci

30.12.2019 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine! J'ai deja reponu a votre question. Bon travail!

31.12.2019 - 21:58

country flag Martine wrote:

En réalité, après multes essais... Je n'obtiens que 71 mailles.... Je ne comprends pas....

26.12.2019 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, rappelez-vous que la 1ere ms est crochetee dans la 2ème ml à partir du crochet, ensuite 1 ms dans chacune des 2 mailles, et enfin on repete la section suivante jusqu'a la fin du rang: sauter 1 ml, 1 ms dans chacune des 4 ml suivantes. > au total on a 71 ms. Si c'est toujour le probleme, vous pouvez tout simplement diminuer une maille par hazard. Bon crochet!

31.12.2019 - 21:53

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, ne tenez pas compte de mon message précédent, pardon! J'ai compris mon erreur: 2ieme maille à partir du crochet.... On ne saute pas de maille ! Bonne journée

26.12.2019 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Très bon boulot Martine. Bonne continuation.

30.12.2019 - 10:58

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, pour le début du dos en taille S, ne faut-il pas plutôt faire une chaînette de 90 ml car avec 89ml, il ne restera que 71ml.... En effet : 1+2+(17x4) soit 1ml +2ml+ 68ml=71ml....non? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.

25.12.2019 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, je suis heureuse que tout est clair. Si vous avez des questions supplementaire, n'hesitez pas a nous ecrire. Bon crochet!

30.12.2019 - 10:57

country flag Clair wrote:

I left a comment about making this and finding the fronts shorter than the back... I just lengthened them, assuming I had made a mistake... checking the pattern again, I found I had. thank you. would love to show you the garment I made... its almost done, just weaving away ends and deciding on how I want to trim it... it looks very pretty.

28.08.2018 - 05:05

country flag Clair wrote:

I just finished all parts, now want to sew up. finding the two fronts are shorter, from the armhole dec to the shoulder? both are exactly the same... is this meant to be like this, or did I make a miscalculation somewhere? I used measurements for Medium, am not using same stitch style, I am using one sc row, one dc row, but followed the measurement lengths and adjusted my pattern stitch to follow exactly.

26.08.2018 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Clair, It is most likely that by not using the same stich style, the gauge became slightly different even if you used the measurements. We hope you will be able to find a way to finish your project.

30.08.2018 - 13:18

country flag Ruth Belchamber wrote:

Hi, Can you tell me if the swatch size and stitch is in English or American English?

12.12.2017 - 09:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Belchamber, you will find informations about gauge under tab "Materials" - choose the appropriate crochet terminology by selecting correct language: English (UK/cm) or English (US/inch) below the picture. Happy crocheting!

12.12.2017 - 10:28