DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Estelle

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves, lace pattern and round yoke in 2 strands ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 148-4
DROPS design: Pattern no z-635
Yarn group A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-110-122-134 cm /
33"-36 1/4"-40"-43½"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm /
22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color no 100, off white
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color no 3112, dusty pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm /US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - for rib.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by picking up a st from previous row, K this st.

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 11, 19, 28, 36, 45 and 53 cm /
3/4",4 3/8",7½",11",14¼",17¾" and 21"
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 55 cm /
3/4",4 3/8",8",11 3/8",15",18½" and 21 5/8"
SIZE L: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 57 cm /
3/4",4 3/8",8",11 3/8",15",18½" and 22½''
SIZE XL: 2, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 59 cm /
3/4",4 3/8",7½",10 5/8",13¾",17",20" and 23¼"
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 19, 27, 36, 44, 53 and 61 cm /
3/4",4",7½",10 5/8",14¼",17¼",21" and 24"
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47, 55 and 63 cm /
3/4",4 3/8",8",11 3/8",15",18½",21 5/8" and 24¾"
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 223-243-268-293-323-353 sts (includes 5 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle 4 mm/ US 6 with 2 strands off white. P 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 3, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain and finish with K 3 and 5 band sts in GARTER ST.
Continue rib like this - remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 69-77-86-95-105-115 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 154-166-182-198-218-238 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st with 5 band sts in garter st each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts as before, 3-3-5-5-7-7 sts in stockinette st, work A.1 (= 13 sts), work in stockinette st until 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts remain on row, work A.1 (= 13 sts), 3-3-5-5-7-7 sts in stockinette st and 5 band sts as before. Continue pattern like this.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', insert 2 markers in the piece; 41-44-48-52-57-62 sts in from each side (= 72-78-86-94-104-114 sts between markers on back piece).
On next row from RS, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - Read DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec).
Repeat dec every 3-3-3½-3½-5-5 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-2"-2" 3-3-3-3-2-2 more times (= 4-4-4-4-3-3 dec in total) = 138-150-166-182-206-226 sts.
When piece measures 18-19-19-19-20-20 cm / 7"-7½"-7½"-7½"-8"-8", continue with 1 strand off white + 1 strand dusty pink.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22-22-23-23-24-24 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9"-9½"-9½", inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc).
Repeat inc every 5-5-5-5-8-8 cm / 2"-2"-2"-2"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" 3-3-3-3-2-2 more times (= 4-4-4-4-3-3 inc in total) = 154-166-182-198-218-238 sts.
When piece measures 39-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16½"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4", work next row as follows from RS: Work 36-39-43-46-51-56 sts as before (= right front piece), bind off the next 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for armhole, work 62-68-76-82-92-102 sts as before (= back piece), bind off the next 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for armhole and work the last 36-39-43-46-51-56 sts as before (= left front piece).
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 70-70-75-80-85-90 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand off white + 1 strand dusty pink.
K 1 round. Then work rib (= K 3/P 2).
When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-12-13-16-17-18 sts evenly = 54-58-62-64-68-72 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve).
Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st.
When piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5½"-5½", bind off 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts on each side of marker) = 44-48-52-52-56-60 sts.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 as body where armholes were bound off = 222-242-266-278-306-334 sts. Beg from WS, insert 1 marker at beg of round - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work back and forth as before with 2 strands dusty pink AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS, dec 11-5-12-11-9-11 sts evenly (do not dec over the outermost 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts in each side) = 211-237-254-267-297-323 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION ON YOKE BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece 1-1-2-2-3-3 cm / 3/8"-3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" from marker, work next row as follows from RS: Work 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts as before, work A.2 until 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts remain (i.e. 13-15-16-17-19-21 repetitions of A.2) and work the last 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts as before (i.e. work A.2 in stockinette st while at the same time dec as shown in diagram). Dec in addition 1 st inside band alternately on right and left front piece - NOTE: Dec on same row as dec in A.2 so that there are 3 dec in total inside right band and 3 dec inside left band.
After last dec, 127-141-152-159-177-191 sts remain on needle.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 54 cm / 21 1/4'' in all sizes (from cast on edge), finish A.1 in each side after one whole repetition vertically and continue in stockinette st over all sts (continue bands in garter st).
When piece measures 14-14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5½"-5½"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7" from marker (remember last buttonhole on band), K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 35-47-54-57-71-83 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 92-94-98-102-106-108 sts.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 row from WS with 2 strands dusty pink. Then K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 21-24-25-26-27-30 sts evenly (do not inc over bands) = 113-118-123-128-133-138 sts.
Work next row as follows from WS: 5 band sts in garter st, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain and finish with P 3 and 5 band sts in garter st. Continue rib like this until neck edge measures 3 cm / 1 1/8''.
Then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 148-4

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (49)

country flag Karen wrote:

Have started this sweater, decided I am going to make it a long sleeved cardigan. Is there a pattern to follow for the long sleeves? Also, is it possible for me to make the neck higher as a neck cardigan?? I am making it a size XXXL. Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions.

10.01.2019 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Karen, If you search under the yarn type and jacket/jumper you will find patterns for long sleeves which you could use instead - just be careful with the measurements and adjust stitch number if necessary. To make the collar higher at the back you need to work short rows - again search for the same yarn and a pattern with short rows and use these on your cardigan. Happy knitting!

11.01.2019 - 08:08

country flag Bodil Clausen wrote:

Der står i opskriften- under ærmet: år arb måler 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm tages der 10-10-10-12-12-12 m ind midt under ærmet (dvs 5-5-5-6-6-6 m på hver side af osv. Skal der ikke lukkes 10 masker af???

16.08.2016 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Jo det ska vara lukkes af, texten har nu rättats. Mvh DROPS Design

17.08.2016 - 10:03

Eman Shahien wrote:

Elegant and delicate

04.04.2013 - 23:32

country flag Margot wrote:

Man kan ju blanda 2 färger på 3 olika sätt. Färg 1 och 2: 11,12,22.

14.03.2013 - 11:22

country flag Elin Svensvik wrote:

Er det bare to farver på denne?Ser ut som det er tre farver.

14.03.2013 - 09:30

DROPS Design answered:

Der bruges kun to farver, men du strikker et stykke med natur, et stykke med natur og stövrosa og et stykke kun med stövrosa. Paa den maade faar du tre forskellige overgange

15.03.2013 - 16:48

SUSANA wrote:

Frescura y comodidad.

11.02.2013 - 02:34

country flag Lise Svartås wrote:

Hvor mye garn må en ha hvis en bare vil ha en farge

31.01.2013 - 08:45

DROPS Design answered:

400 gr for str S, 450 gr for str M osv.

31.01.2013 - 10:40

Laura wrote:

I think Pembrooke would be a pretty name for it!

18.01.2013 - 01:21

country flag Heidi wrote:

Kaunis, värien liuttaminen pikanttia.

16.01.2013 - 14:59

country flag Tinou49 wrote:

J'aime beaucoup

15.01.2013 - 12:08