DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Pretty pink

Knitted DROPS tight-fitting top with rib and lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 147-5
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-016
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-90-98-110-120 cm /
30"-33"-35½"-38½"-43½"-47 1/4"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm /
22''-22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 18, pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for rib.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C - for neck edge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to waist):
Dec after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to armhole):
Dec inside 3 edge sts in garter st.
All dec are done from RS!
Dec after 3 edge sts as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 3 edge sts as follows: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP (applies to waist):
Inc after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker.
Inc as follows after marker: K 1, then pick up same st from previous round and K this st.
Inc as follows before marker: Beg 1 st before marker and pick up this st from previous round, K this st and K last st before marker.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 220-240-260-280-310-340 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light. K 1 round.
Work next round as follows: Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= side), K 1, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 21-23-25-27-30-33 times in total, P 3, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 K sts = side), * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 21-23-25-27-30-33 times in total and finish with P 3 and K 1. Continue rib like this.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec all 3 P sts to 2 P sts by P tog the first 2 sts in every P-section = 176-192-208-224-248-272 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Beg next round 3 sts before marker at beg of round: Diagram A.1 (= 6 sts – marker in the side is in the middle of A.1), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-2-3-4-5 times in total, K 2, diagram A.1 (= 6 sts), insert 1 marker (= 1st marker), work in stockinette st over the next 58-66-66-66-70-74 sts, insert 1 marker (= 2nd marker), diagram A.1 (= 6 sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-2-3-4-5 times in total, K 2, diagram A.1 (= 6 sts – marker in the side is in the middle of A.1), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-2-3-4-5 times in total, K 2, diagram A.1 (= 6 sts), insert 1 marker (= 3rd marker), work in stockinette st over the next 58-66-66-66-70-74 sts, insert 1 marker (= 4th marker), diagram A.1 (= 6 sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 1-1-2-3-4-5 times in total and finish with K 2.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 6-7-7-7-8-8 cm / 2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3"-3", dec 1 st after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4th round 8-7-7-7-6-6 more times = 140-160-176-192-220-244 sts.
When piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4'', inc 1 st after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc).
Repeat inc every 7th-8th-9th-10th-13th-14th round 6-5-5-5-4-4 more times = 168-184-200-216-240-264 sts. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', work rib (= K 2/P 2) over the middle 54-62-62-62-66-70 sts in stockinette st front and back (i.e. between 1st and 2nd marker and between 3rd and 4th marker, work the other sts as before – NOTE: Beg and end rib with K 2 in each side).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'', work 2 ridges in GARTER ST over the middle 12 sts in each side (= 6 sts in garter st on each side of markers in the sides - work the other sts as before).
On next round after the 2 ridges, bind off the middle 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 3 sts on each side of both markers). Work front and back piece separately, back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
= 78-86-94-102-114-126 sts. Continue pattern as before but work the outermost 3 sts in each side in GARTER ST - read explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS, dec 1 st on each side for armhole - Read DECREASE TIP 2 (= 2 sts dec).
Repeat dec every other row (i.e. on every row from RS), 1-1-3-6-10-14 more times and then every 4th row (i.e. on every other row from RS) a total of 0-0-2-3-3-3 times = 74-82-82-82-86-90 sts.
When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', bind off the middle 34-34-34-34-38-42 rib sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue to bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 18-22-22-22-22-22 sts remain on the shoulder.
Continue pattern as before with 3 sts in garter st towards the armhole and 2 sts in garter st towards the neck.
Bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''-26''. Repeat on the other shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
= 78-86-94-102-114-126 sts. Work as on back piece but when piece measures 44-46-48-48-50-52 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19"-19 3/4"-20½", bind off the middle 14-14-14-14-18-22 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Then bind off at beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 4 times = 18-22-22-22-22-22 sts remain on shoulder.
Continue with pattern with 3 sts in garter st towards armhole and 2 sts in garter st towards neck until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''-26'' and bind off.
Repeat on the other shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid back and work a finishing edge around the neck on hook size 3 mm / C as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 2, skip approx. 1-1½ cm / 1/4"-½", 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 3, pass the first st worked over the 2 other sts so that this st is around the 2 last sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Manon wrote:

. Continuer avec l'aiguille circulaire 3.5 et commencer le tour suivant 3 m avant le marqueur du début du tour: Diagramme A.1 (= 6 m – le marqueur sur le côté est au milieu de A.1), *mais j'ai déjà tricoter mes 3 mailles pour finir mon tour alors commencer le tour 3 mailles avant le marqueur?????

20.02.2022 - 21:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, détricotez ces 3 mailles à la fin de votre dernier tour avec les aiguilles 3, vous allez désormais commencer ici par le diagramme A.1 (= les 3 dernières mailles du tour + les 3 premières mailles du tour suivant). Bon tricot!

21.02.2022 - 10:05

country flag Manon wrote:

Merci pour vos explications maintenant je suis rendu a faire le A1 mais je n,y comprends explications simple svp merci beaucoup ...

19.02.2022 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, cette leçon explique comment lire un diagramme; et cette vidéo montre comment tricoter ce type de petites torsades. Bon tricot!

21.02.2022 - 09:35

country flag Manon wrote:

Bonjour merci pour l'info..maintenant ces le entre parenthèse ( (2+ (5x27)+3+1)+(1+(5*27)+3) que je ne comprends pas Merci !

09.02.2022 - 15:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, les chiffres dans les parenthèses correspondent aux mailles décrites juste au-dessus, autrement dit: *1 m end (et non pas 2 désolée), (3 m env, 2 m end) x 27 (soit 5 x 27 =135 mailles en côtes 3 m env, 2 m end) , 3 m env, 1 m end*, (vous avez maintenant tricoté: 1 + 135+3+1=140 mailles, placez le 2ème marqueur, et répétez de * à* encore 1 fois = 140 mailles après le 2ème marqueur = 280 mailles au total. Bon tricot!

09.02.2022 - 16:05

country flag Manon wrote:

Bonjour moi je me demande quand on commence au début 1 m end 3 m env 2 m end c'esi écris 2 fois répéter 21 a 33 fois moi je fais ex donc 27 fois et mettre un marqueur je ne sais pas ou je doit mettre les marqueurs Merci !

08.02.2022 - 01:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, tricotez ainsi en XL: placez votre 1er marqueur au début du tour, puis tricotez: 2 m end, (3 m env, 2 m end) x 27, 3 m env, 1 m end, placez le 2ème marqueur, 1 m end, (3 m env, 2 m end) x 27, terminez par 3 m end, soit: (2+ (5x27)+3+1)+(1+(5*27)+3)=280 mailles (140 de chaque côté de chaque marqueur). Bon tricot!

08.02.2022 - 09:24

country flag Rose wrote:

I am doing a project with pattern 147-5. But having problem after the rib for body. The calculation of stiches does not match with my rib sticthes. My size is L

12.08.2021 - 15:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rose, In size L work as follows: Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= side), K 1, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 25 times in total (= 5 sts x 25 = 125 sts) , P 3, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 K sts = side), * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 25 times in total (= 5 sts x 25 = 125 sts) and finish with P 3 and K 1 = 1+ 125 + 3 +2 + 125 + 3 +1=260 sts. Happy knitting!

12.08.2021 - 16:17

country flag Fanny Andrä wrote:

Ich stricke dieses Top nach. Ich komme beim Beginn des Musters nur auf 96 Maschen und nicht auf die nötigen 208. wo liegt mein Fehler?

24.04.2020 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Andrä, Sie beginnen mit 260 M und stricken: 1 M re, * 3 M li, 2 M re *, von *-* insgesamt 25 x arbeiten, 3 M li, 2 M re, * 3 M li, 2 M re *, von *-* insgesamt 25 x arbeiten und mit 3 M li und 1 M re enden = 260 M und Sie haben jetzt 3 M li x 52 insgesamt. Bei 4 cm nehmen Sie 1 Masche in jeder dieser 3-M-Li-Partien (2 M li zs) = 52 werden abgenommen, so haben Sie 260-52=208 M übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.04.2020 - 15:49

country flag Duperrex wrote:

Modèle très facile à faire et j'ai eu grand plaisir à le faire !

15.07.2019 - 22:54

country flag Sølvi wrote:

I oppskriften begynner vrangbord på midt foran/midt bak feltene før felling for ermer og deling til for og bakstykker På bildet er denne vrangborden kun øverst på toppen. Når skal man begynne vrangborden for å få det likt som på bildet av modellen?

25.05.2016 - 10:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sølvi. Du skal begynne som der staar i mönstret. Jeg tror den ogsaa er begyndt för paa modellen paa billedet, men pga barmen traekker den lidt op.

25.05.2016 - 13:32

country flag Julia wrote:

Please let me know which video tutorial I can watch for the increase tip after marker and before marker. Thank you

28.01.2016 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julia, the video below shows how to inc as under "increase-tip". Happy knitting!

29.01.2016 - 09:03

country flag Grethe Augustesen wrote:

Ups :-) Jeg er så gået i gang med at trevle op. Har glemt indtagningerne. Tak for svaret. Med venlig hilsen Grethe

04.05.2015 - 19:15