DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 146-39
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-235
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
US 5/6½-7½/9-9½/10½
EU 35/37-38/40-41/43

Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10½”
Sock height: approx. 19 - 20 - 20 cm / 7½" - 8"- 8"

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 2 mm / B/1 - or size needed to get 28 dc in width x 16 dc vertically and 28 sc in width x 35 sc vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st as follows – beg 2 sts before marker:
Work 1 sc/dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc/dc but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.

CROCHET TIP:
Beg every round on leg with ch 3, they are not counted and do not replace first dc in diagram. On foot replace first dc on round with 3 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn every row on heel with 1 ch.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 19-22-22 sc, 8-9-9 sc remain on row, dec
1 sc - SEE DECREASE TIP = 20-23-23 sc. Turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 12-14-14 sc, 8-9-9 sc remain on row,
dec 1 sc = 13-15-15 sc, turn piece.
ROW 3: Work 12-14-14 sc, dec 1 sc, turn piece.
Repeat 3rd row 12-14-14 times in total, i.e. all sts on each side of the middle 13-15-15 sc on heel have been dec.
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RIGHT SOCK:
Worked in the round.
Ch 80-85-90 on hook size 2 mm / B/1 with off white and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
Round 1: ch 3, then 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 1, * 1 dc in each of the next ch 4, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in the 3rd ch from beg of round = 64-68-72 dc.
Continue with A.1 - see explanation above. READ CROCHET TIP. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Continue with A.1 until piece measures 12 cm / 4¾''.
Now continue to work the heel with sc back and forth over the first 27-31-31 dc/ch on round.
Continue like this with 1 sc in every sc until approx. 5-5½-6 cm / 2"-2 1/4"-2½" have been worked over heel sts. Insert 1 marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Then dec for heel - see HEEL DECREASE!
After heel dec work as follows: 1 dc in each of the 13-15-15 sc on heel, 14-15-16 dc along the edge on heel, 1 dc in each of the 37-37-41 dc/ch on top of foot and 14-15-16 dc along the edge on the other side of heel = 78-82-88 dc on round.
Insert 1 marker on each side of the middle 33-37-37 dc on top of foot.
Then work in the round with dc under foot and A.1 over the 33-37-37 dc on top of foot while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc on each side of the 33-33-37 sts on top of foot – SEE DECREASE TIP, repeat dec on every round 11-11-12 more times (12-12-13 dec in total) = 54-58-62 dc.
Continue until piece measures 19-21-23 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-9" from marker on heel (= approx. 3-3-4 cm / 1"-1"-1½" remain).
Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 27-29-31 dc both on top of foot and under foot.
Finish as follows: 1 round with 1 sc in every dc, then work 1 sc in every sc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 sc on each side of every marker – SEE DECREASE TIP, repeat dec on every round 9-10-11 more times (10-11-12 dec in total) = 14 sc remain.
On next round work all sc tog 2 by 2.
Cut the yarn and sew it through the remaining sc, tighten tog and fasten.

LEFT SOCK:
Work as right sock but when working the heel, work over the last 27-31-31 dc/ch on round.


CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the edge of sock on hook size 2 mm / B/1 with Fabel as follows:
Work 1 sc in first dc, * skip approx. 1 cm / ½'', work 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in next dc, skip approx. 1 cm / ½'', work 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.

Work a similar edge down the leg on the side of sock, from the opening at the top and down to where heel beg.

Work the same way on the other sock but in the opposite side.

CROCHET FLOWER:
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 2 mm / B/1 with Fabel and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
Round 1: Work 6 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Round 2: ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, * 3 dc + 2 ch+ 3 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total and finish with 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in last sc and 1 sl st in first sc = 3 leaves.

Crochet 2 flowers, fasten one flower on each sock where the crochet edge on leg ends.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.03.2013
RIGHT SOCK:
...
After heel dec work as follows: 1 dc in each of the 13-15-15 sc on heel, 14-15-16 dc along the edge on heel, 1 dc in each of the 37-37-41 dc/ch on top of foot and 14-15-16 dc along the edge on the other side of heel = 78-82-88 dc on round.
Insert 1 marker on each side of the middle 33-37-37 dc on top of foot.
Then work in the round with dc under foot and A.1 over the 33-37-37 dc on top of foot while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc on each side of the 33-33-37 sts on top of foot...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = dc
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Wendy Gunter wrote:

I'm having a hard time picturing this pattern. I have done four rows and I can't decide if the skip 1 is the same place or is it different on each row? Thank you

13.12.2022 - 02:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Wendy, The skip 1 is not above the one below, but above the one 2 rows below. Happy crocheting!

13.12.2022 - 07:45

country flag Ferial AITAMEUR wrote:

Bonjour J ai une laine fine....j ai essayé l echantillon avec crochet 1mm jusqu'à 4mm...rien a faire toujours tres grand....est ce que c est a cause de na laine? C est une laine pour bébé tres fine....merci....je suis a Laval Canada et je trouves pas de magasin Drops...et je comprend pas les tailles de laine pour Substituer

29.12.2021 - 03:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Aitameur, DROPS Fabel est une laine à chaussettes classique, vous devez avoir 28 mailles en largeur pour 10 cm de large et 16 brides ou 35 mailles serrées pour 10 cm de hauteur. Retrouvez ici les magasins livrant au Canada, contactez Nordic Yarn pour la liste des magasins au Canada. Bon tricot!

03.01.2022 - 09:33

country flag Kitty wrote:

Hey! love the socks - just wondering if I'm between sizes would you recommend going larger or smaller?

10.06.2021 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Knitty, that depends how you like your socks on your feet? Thight or looser? However, you do have to take into consideration the fact that this is a crocheted sock, and crochet is never as felxible as knitting. Happy Stitching!

11.06.2021 - 01:35

country flag Anna wrote:

Witam, nie rozumiem jak wykonać skarpetkę po zamknięciu oczek na piętę. Proszę o pomoc. Z wyrazami szacunku Anna. :)

18.12.2019 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, od tej chwili przerabiasz stopę na okrągło. Wykonujesz 1-sze okrążenie samymi słupkami, najpierw 1 sł w każde z 13-15-15 oś pięty (jej środek, wybierz cyfrę w zależności od rozmiaru, który wykonujesz), 14-15-16 sł wzdłuż jednego boku pięty, 1 sł w każdy z 37-37-41 sł/oł wierzchu stopy i 14-15-16 sł wzdłuż drugiego boku pięty = 78-82-88 sł. Umieścić 1 marker z każdej strony 33-37-37 sł wierzchu stopy. Dalej przer. na okrągło słupkami przez oczka spodu stopy i ściegiem fantazyjnym A.1 przez 33-37-37 sł wierzchu stopy. Jeśli masz jakieś pytania to pisz. Pozdrawiamy!

30.12.2019 - 10:53

country flag Lynn Holder wrote:

I just wondered if you still produce your lovely pattern magazines. I have a few old ones. I love them. Thank you x

22.09.2019 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Holder, we do not print catalogues anymore, but some DROPS stores may have some old ones left, do not hesitate to contact them even by mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

23.09.2019 - 09:28

country flag Wassila wrote:

Lovely socks. I have a couple of questions: 1- when starting working the the socks, do I work back and forth in order to keep the line straight? 2- when decreasing the heel, size 35/37 do I decrease 8 dc all together in one dc on each side? When you say repeat 3d row 12 times in total, is this starting from marker which will make it really big or icluding the 5 cm? Thank you

02.01.2016 - 05:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Wassila, sock is worked in the round. The video below shows how to dec for heel, you dec 1 st at the end of each row on heel dec. You have to dec a total of 12 times every round = 12 dec rows for instep. Happy crocheting!

04.01.2016 - 10:39

country flag Marianne wrote:

Er det mulig å få bilder av hvordan de ferdige strømpene skal se ut på undersiden? Evt en video om hvordan felling av hælen skal foregå? Jeg sitter med en form som ikke er kompatibel med det som skjer i mønsteret etter at hælen er felt av.

11.05.2015 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne. Vi har ikke noget billede af underkanten, men jeg har noteret et video-önske paa haelfellingen. Jeg kan desvaerre ikke sige noget om, hvornaar den vil vaere klar.

12.05.2015 - 17:21

country flag Mary Alice Anson wrote:

I love all your patterns and i print them. And i have trouble favoriting them in your system. i am notcomputer literate. But i managed to get one in favorites. I am trying to put a whole lot more in there. Thank you so so much

19.03.2015 - 01:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Anson, you can use several e-mail adress if you need to. Happy crocheting!

19.03.2015 - 11:04

country flag Annika M wrote:

Underbara sockor som jag håller på med. Har en fråga angående minskningar när det kommer till diagram A1. Hur utförs dem, kan inte se att det står på minskningstips (bara fm).

31.07.2014 - 12:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annika. Du skal ikke minske i A.1. Du minsker i st på hver side af A.1.

06.08.2014 - 17:12

country flag Annika M wrote:

Underbara sockor som jag håller på med. Har en fråga angående minskningar när det kommer till diagram A1. Hur utförs dem, kan inte se att det står på minskningstips (bara fm).

31.07.2014 - 08:39