DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Silje jumper

Knitted jumper with round yoke and flounce in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size children 3 to 12 years.

DROPS Children 23-16
DROPS design: Pattern no me-001-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350 g colour no 07, light brown
50 g colour no 01, off white
50 g colour no 15, light greyish green
50 g colour no 16, light pink
50 g colour no 22, medium purple
50 g colour no 24, light yellow

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: K 2 twisted tog.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 – choose diagram for your size. Work entire pattern in stocking st.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 280-304-328-352-384 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with light brown. Work rib = K 6/P 2 for 3-3-4-4-5 cm. Work next round as follows: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2, K 2 tog, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 210-228-246-264-288 sts. Work 1 round with K 4/P 2. Work next round as follows: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2 tog, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 140-152-164-176-192 sts. Work 1 round with K 2/P 2.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 70-76-82-88-96 sts (these marks the sides). Continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 9 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 7-8-9-10-11 cm 2 more times = 128-140-152-164-180 sts. When piece measures 29-31-33-35-37 cm, cast off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3 sts on each side of both markers) = 58-64-70-76-84 sts remain on needle on both back and front piece, cut the thread. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 36-36-40-44-44 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with light brown. Work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 4 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-4-8-8 sts evenly = 32-32-36-36-36 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm, insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 7 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st on each side of marker). Repeat inc every 2-2-2½-2½-2½ cm 8-11-10-12-14 more times = 50-56-58-62-66 sts. When piece measures 27-31-34-39-44 cm, cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker) = 44-50-52-56-60 sts remain on needle, cut the thread. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 204-228-244-264-288 sts - insert 1 marker mid back - NOW ROUND BEG HERE. Work 3-4-2-3-4 cm in stocking st with light brown - AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-4-6-12-8 sts evenly on last round = 196-224-238-252-280 sts. Continue with diagram A.1 (= 14-16-17-18-20 repetitions on the round). After A.1 84-96-102-108-120 sts remain on needle. Continue to work an elevation in the back of neck with light brown and short rows as follows: K 10 sts past marker mid back, turn, tighten thread and P 20 sts, turn, tighten thread and K 30 sts, turn, tighten thread and P 40 sts. Continue like this until a total of 60-80-80-80-100 sts have been worked. Turn and K until mid back. Then K 1 round over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-20-22-24-32 sts evenly = 72-76-80-84-88 sts. Piece measures approx. 43-46-49-52-55 cm up to shoulder, continue with neck edge.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Continue with light brown and rib = K 2/P 2 for approx. 2.5 cm. Then loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

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Jacket - see pattern SmåDrops 23-15
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Socks - see pattern SmåDrops 23-17
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Diagram

symbols = light brown
symbols = light yellow
symbols = light pink
symbols = off white
symbols = medium purple
symbols = light greyish green
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 23-16

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Evelyn wrote:

How do I do the elevation at back of neck. Why is it required. Can I cintinue without that.

25.09.2023 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Evelyn, work an elevation on mid back of piece so that the neck will be higher on back piece than on front piece - in this video we show how to make an elevation (remember to follow the number of stitches stated in the pattern). Happy knitting!

25.09.2023 - 15:49

country flag Elisabeth Price wrote:

Kann ich das Passen Muster austauschen? z.B. mit der Passe von Modell Nr. u-069-bn? z.B. indem ich das Muster umgekehrt stricke und dabei anstatt Umschläge machen, Abnehmen vornehme? d.h. mit der letzten Runde im Muster nur noch 6 Maschen habe (für Grösse 7/8)?

23.04.2022 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Price, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen - beachten Sie, daß die Maschenanzahl bei der Passe ist in beiden Modellen unterschiedlich (Maßen sind auch etwas unterschiedlich) - am besten fragen Sie mal Ihr DROPS Laden, dort wird man Ihnen gerne weiter helfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.04.2022 - 07:44

country flag Lea wrote:

Sig mig, skal der slås 328 masker op?? det er mere end til en XXXL kvinde? Hvad er der lige galt med denne opskrift?

29.11.2021 - 00:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lea, du har en lille flæsekant på denne bluse, det er derfor du skal slå så mange masker op. Du kan se i opskriften at der tages ind efter flæsekanten :)

29.11.2021 - 14:17

country flag Essi wrote:

Mitä pitää tehdä, kun en millään saa niin että ois 21s 10cm:llä? Mulla tulee 19s 10cm:lle. Paidastahan tulee liian iso.

17.04.2021 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, vaihda puolta tai yhtä numeroa ohuempiin puikkoihin ja tarkista sitten neuletiheys uudestaan.

30.04.2021 - 14:27

country flag Lisbeth Skovby wrote:

Jeg strikker str 11/12 år. Strikkefast hed : 21 m = 10 cm 28 pinde = cm, så strikkefastheden holder, jeg noget til at skal strikke bærestykke, så jeg vil tro at jeg mangler 1 nøgle

10.12.2020 - 15:43

country flag Lisbeth wrote:

Hvor træls, der er ikke nok garn i grundfarven, jeg bruger grå, farve 05, jeg kan nu se at andre også har klaget over dette, hvorfor tilpasses opskriften ikke ?????? Strikkefastheden passer , kan jeg få en nøgle i samme indfarvning ? 50770

09.12.2020 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, fordi garnforbruget bør stemme..., hvilken størrelse strikker du? Hvor mange masker har du på 10 cm i bredden og i højden. Hvor meget mangler du? Prøv at efterlyse garnet i DROPS Workshop på Facebook, her er der gode chancer for at du finder samme indfarvning.

10.12.2020 - 15:36

country flag Karin Brinch-Nielsen wrote:

Mht opskrift 23-16: Jeg har fundet ud af det, så du skal ikke gøre noget ! Mvh Karin Brinch-Nielsen

13.02.2020 - 10:55

country flag Karin Brinch-Nielsen wrote:

Jeg er i gang med at strikke Silje Jumper 23-16 i str. 5 år. Jeg har foretaget strikkeprøve, og den passer perfekt. Alligevel mangler jeg 50 gram i grundfarven, som er lys grå. Det er jeg rigtig ked af, da jeg ikke ved, om jeg kan få samme indfarvning og trods alt skal betale 29 kr i Porto ! Mon du kan hjælpe ? Fx tjekke om jeg kan få 1 nøgle lys grå farve 05 og indfarvning 91827 ? Måske endda til nedsat Porto ? Mvh Karin

09.02.2020 - 19:56

country flag Alicia wrote:

Hola. He comprado lana DROPS para hacer este patrón. ¿El derecho a recibir asistencia por la tienda es gratuito? Me ofrecen clases de asistencia pero he de pagar por ellas.

21.12.2018 - 15:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alicia. Para más ayuda en los patrones, puedes contactar con la tienda DROPS donde compraste tus hilos, donde estás garantizada a recibir ayuda calificada para resolver las dudas sobre el patrón, pero no incluye clases gratuitas para elaborar la prenda.

30.12.2018 - 15:41

country flag Marianne Fisker wrote:

Vil gerne have opskriften i voksenstørrelse str. L Eller lignede :-)

27.10.2018 - 07:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, har du prøvet at søge på "bluser" og teknik: "rundt bærestykke" da vil du få ret mange forslag på lignende bluser :)

29.10.2018 - 16:05