DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Oliver Twist

Knitted vest / slipover with V-neck and cables in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 3 to 12 years.

DROPS Children 23-18
DROPS design: Pattern no BS-003-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-250 g colour no 0100, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 6935, navy blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A-1 to A-3, diagrams show all rows in pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck dec at the front):
All dec are done from RS inside all sts in A-2 (= 19 sts).
RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Dec as follows after A-2: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
LEFT FRONT PIECE: Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before A-2: K 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 160-175-185-200-215 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. Work rib = K 3/P 2. After 6 rounds with off white, work 2 rounds navy blue, then 2 rounds off white, 2 rounds navy blue and 2 rounds off white. Piece measures approx. 4 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm, finish the piece with off white. Work first round as follows: K 2-3-0-1-3, insert a marker (= the side), K 11-15-18-22-25, * P 2, K 1, work 2 K sts in next st, K 1 (i.e. that 3 K sts from rib becomes 4 K sts) *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, P 2, K 8 (= mid front), repeat from *-* 5 times, P 2, K 11-15-18-22-25, insert a marker (= the side), work until first marker inserted in the side (= 76-83-87-94-103 sts) - while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-3-1-0-3 sts evenly.
There are now 166-182-194-210-222 sts on needle - 94-102-108-116-122 sts on front piece and 72-80-86-94-100 sts on back piece. Then work as follows: 11-15-18-22-25 sts in stocking st, A-1 (= 12 sts), A-2 (= 48 sts), A-3 (= 12 sts), 11-15-18-22-25 sts in stocking st (marker) and 72-80-86-94-100 sts in stocking st (= back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue pattern like this until A-2 has been worked 4-4-5-5-5 times vertically (piece measures approx. 24-24-29-29-29 cm). Work pattern one more time up to the row marked with an arrow. Work the row marked with an arrow as shown in diagram but do as follows on the middle 8 sts: Slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 1 st from cable needle tog with 1 st from needle, do this with all 4 sts on cable needle, i.e. the middle 8 sts are dec to 4. Work as before the entire round until 3 sts remain.
Now cast off for armholes and neck as follows: Cast off the first 6 sts (i.e 3 last on round + the 3 first on round), work the next 39-43-46-50-53 sts as before, cast off the next 6 sts (= mid front), work the next 39-43-46-50-53 sts as before, cast off 6 sts (= armhole), work the rest of round (= 66-74-80-88-94 sts). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 66-74-80-88-94 sts. Continue in stocking st - at the same time cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 0-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 4-4-4-3-3 times = 58-62-68-74-80 sts remain on needle. Continue in stocking st but work the outermost st in each side K on every row. When piece measures approx. 37-38-44-45-47 cm, cast off the middle 22-22-24-26-28 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off on every row from neck: 1 st 2 times = 16-18-20-22-24 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures approx. 39-40-46-47-49 cm in total.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 39-43-46-50-53 sts. Continue pattern as before but over A-2 only continue with the last 4 rows in diagram – outermost st towards mid front is worked K on all rows. At the same time cast off for armhole as on back piece and dec for neck – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat neck dec every row from RS until 22-24-26-28-30 sts remain on needle. Work as follows (seen from from RS): 1 st worked K on all rows, 2-4-6-8-10 sts in stocking st and A-2 as before. When piece measures approx. 39-40-46-47-49 cm (adjust to back piece), dec all 4 K sts in A-2 tog to 2 K sts (i.e. K sts tog 2 by 2) = 16-18-20-22-24 sts. On next row (= WS) cast off all sts with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 2.5 mm from mid front. Start by knitting up sts on the left side of the 6 sts cast off mid front - knit up with off white inside 1 st: Approx. 30-40 sts up to shoulder, then approx. 26-32 sts over back piece and 30-40 sts down along the other side of neck (do not knit up over the 6 sts cast off mid front) = approx. 86-112 sts. K 1 row from WS. Then K 1 row from RS while at the same time inc evenly to 105-110-115-120-125 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 1 st worked K on all rows, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, P 3 and 1 st worked K on all rows. From RS as follows: K 1, * K 3, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 3 and K 1. Work a total of 4 rows in rib, switch to navy blue, work 1 row rib (from WS), then cast off with K over K and P over P. Neck edge measures approx. 2.5 cm in width.
Place left part of neck edge over right and fasten towards the 6 sts cast off at the bottom of neck.

ARMHOLE EDGE:
Knit up approx. 65-90 sts at the edge of one armhole on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off white. P 1 round, then K 1 round - while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 75-80-85-90-100 sts. Continue in rib = K 3/P 2 for 4 rounds. Switch to navy blue, work 1 round in rib, then cast off with K over K and P over P. Work the same way around the other armhole.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.02.2014
New chart A-2.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 2 and P 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 2, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, P 2 and K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, P 2, K 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Françoise Vignes wrote:

Pour drops 23-18 que veut dire : tricoter comme avant le tour juqu'a ce qu il reste 3 m

19.02.2016 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vignes, après avoir diminué les 8 m centrales à 4 m, vous continuez le tour comme avant mais vous arrêtez quand il reste 3 m avant la fin du tour, on va rabattre pour l'emmanchure les 6 m suivantes (= les 3 dernières m du tour + les 3 premières m du tour suivant). Bon tricot!

20.02.2016 - 12:34

Linda Gagnon wrote:

Je viens d'aller voir les questions et réponse et ma réponse était là. Vous dites que la légende du symbole a été corrigé mais le 01-02-2014 il n'est toujours pas corrigé. Merci !

01.02.2014 - 21:33

Linda Gagnon wrote:

Dans le diagramme A-2, le diagramme en partant du haut no. 7 et 8 pourraient-ils avoir une erreur. 7 = Glisser 4 m sur l'aig. aux. derrière l'ouvrage, 4 m end, 2 m end et reprendre les 2 m en attente et les tricoter à l'endroit. Ça devrait être reprendre les 4 m en attente et les tricoter à l'endroit. Le 8 semble correcte.

01.02.2014 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gagnon, au 7ème symbole, il fallait lire : glisser 4 m sur l'aiguille auxiliaire derrière l'ouvrage, tricoter 4 m end, reprendre les 4 m en attente et tricoter 2 m end, 2 m env. La correction a été faite. Bon tricot!

03.02.2014 - 09:42

country flag Anna wrote:

To clarify: By omitting I mean making stockinette stitches instead of purl stiches...

30.01.2014 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, a new diagram has been published. Thank you. Happy knitting!

05.02.2014 - 11:11

country flag Anna wrote:

I too believe there must be a mistake in the pattern diagram when making the large "outbreaking" cable. Purl stitches appear on the cable where there should be stockinette stitches. Omitting the innermost purls on each side on row 6 and the next innermost purls on row 8 in the pattern seems to do the trick.

30.01.2014 - 09:25

Idunn wrote:

Det virker som om der er en fejl i opskriften, når man strikker den store snoning, kommer der vrangmasker på retsiden hvor der ellers skulle være glatstrik (når man strikker 4 r, 2 vr, 4 ret fra hjælpep dvs i diagrammets 9. linie )

20.11.2013 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Idunn. Mönstret stemmer. Der skal ogsaa vaere 2 vr masker paa retten som löber igennem kablet (og mönstret)

21.11.2013 - 14:03

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Dat is inderdaad vreemd, we hebben de vraag doorgestuurd naar de designafdeling en hopen binnenkort een antwoord te kunnen geven.

22.10.2013 - 21:07

country flag Verwijnen wrote:

Volgens mij zit er een fout in het telpatroon 2. De dikkere kabel in het midden gaat over de averechte banen. Volgens het patroon blijf je die averecht breien aan de goede kant. Maar je moet ze recht breien als de dikkere kabel eroverheen naar buiten loopt. ( hoop dat hef duidelijk is)

22.10.2013 - 10:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Verwijnen. Het heeft even geduurd, maar het telpatroon is aangepast. Bedankt voor het melden.

05.02.2014 - 12:30

country flag Nat wrote:

Merci. Vous êtes formidable ! Vos modèles et votre laine mon conquis.

27.03.2013 - 15:20

country flag Nat wrote:

Bonjour ce modèle me pose un problème au niveau du diagramme à hauteur de la 6ème ligne car si je prends 4 mailles sur l'aiguille circulaire en arrière, 4 maille end, 2 maille end et reprendre 2 mailles sur l'aiguile circulaire alors que je suis censée avor mis 4 maille sur l'aigule circulaire cela ne correspond plus. Merci de bien vouloir m'expliquer comment je dois faire. cordialement

22.03.2013 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nat, la légende du symbole a été corrigée, il fallait lire : glisser 4 m sur l'aiguille auxiliaire derrière l'ouvrage, 4 m end, reprendre les 4 m en attente et tricoter 2 m env, 2 m end . Bon tricot !

25.03.2013 - 11:19